A very long time ago,
a very clear sighted gentleman remarked, wood is pretty tough stuff!
It's real pretty to look at, it's pretty easy to work and bend and shape,
and the damn stuff floats, so lets build boats out of it.
A lot of water craft
that were designed years ago, have lines that reflect the materials they
were made from. They remain some of the most beautiful examples of
craftsmanship that exist today.
Some of todays' designs, though beautiful to
look at, have some hidden problems that are not discussed once the word
easy maintenance is brought up. Most hulls today are fiberglass lay-ups,
and in my opinion fiberglass is not the best
choice. Fiberglass shatters at impact, like a Corvette hitting a
fire hydrant. Some of the older lay-ups have started to separate
between layers, or develop air pockets. How do you fix that?
Once the gel coat layer of a fiberglass lay-up has worn through, there
isn't much you can do to improve the way it looks. Many manufacturers
claim that their hulls are unsinkable due to the floatation pockets built
into them, and yet so many of them have disappeared without a trace.
In one case, a gentleman set sail for Hawaii on his fiberglass ketch, and
having been careless about dressing the bow line, it fell over the side,
and became entangled in the propeller shaft. As it wound itself tighter
and tighter, it put such a strain on the hull, that the hull finally shattered
and went down in less than five minutes.
Being from New England,
I hold that white cedar is the best choice of planking material.
I am also sure that it will last longer than you will if it is cared for.
I recently found a vessel that my dad had owned back in the 1940's, that
had been built in 1903. I am pleased to say that she is still afloat
and very seaworthy. She was white cedar planked over white oak frames,
and in my eyes, the most beautiful 31 foot sloop I've ever seen.
These days, canoes and
small water craft are being strip built with much success, and once again
the material of choice is white or red cedar. Instead of the planks
being fastened to ribs or frames, they are joined edge to edge over a form.
Once removed from the form, this method produces a monoquoce hull that
is free of frames yet ever bit as strong. A six ounce layer of fiberglass
is then applied inside and out which becomes transparent. This allows
the beautiful grain and color of the wood to show without a single nail
or screw to be seen. The strength of this method is unsurpassed,
and if it becomes damaged, it is repairable.
I have produced a universal
strongback for strip building canoes and small boats. I designed
it in such a way that the forms can be moved or adjusted or even replaced
to produce several designs from the same strongback. I have selected
a New England style canoe that can be reproduced in several configurations
and lengths by simply adjusting the spacing of the forms. I can also
produce lines drawings and offsets for any reasonable hull. The materials
that I've selected, along with the modern approach to adheasives and finsihing
products will furnish the best of both worlds. A beautiful time tested
design that will out last it's owner/builder.
There is a simple test
that anyone can do that will convince even the most stubborn lovers of
plastic or laidup hulls. Sit in a plastic or fiberglass canoe, and
reach down with both hands and grab the gunwhales. Give them a good
shake side to side. You will notice that not only is there movement,
but the whole thing moves. Now try the same thing in a plank
on frame or strip built canoe. There are one or two companies left
that will build a canoe or small boat for you from wood, but it is very
costly. One very famous Maine company will do it for you, but at
last investigation, they wanted over $3,000.00, and they might not even
be doing it now. I guess that leaves just you and I, and we can do
it for much less.
Here is a question for
you. If you are going to spend that much time, at least a couple
months, and all that money, why not enjoy your canoe or boat as a sailing
craft as well? I have sailed an eighteen foot guides model for countless
miles, and only dumped it once. That occurred because of a spar failure,
and the only thing that got wet was my pride. I have designed leeboards,
outriggers, sails and all the hardware to turn your canoe into a very able
sailing vessel. If you like, we can simply design the craft as a
sailboat right from the beginning, or as a light row boat or canoe.
The sailboat can be a centerboard design or even deep keel or simply your
favorite canoe with an add-on leeboard. The fun lasts for ever, and
there is no polution added to the water. It's quiet, requires little
maintenance, and best of all, no expensive fuel to buy.
I can supply you with
plans sets or engineering data for the craft of your choice. If you
e-mail me about your interest,I will answer your request personally, and
we can aid in your decision of the best way to come up with the water craft
of your choice.