Site hosted by Angelfire.com: Build your free website today!
Zlia Zyb and Diavolskite Igli

1. Zlia Zyb*** is one of the most popular crags in the region.

Its North face* is a good training area for beginners and provides good oppertunity for winter climbing. There are 2-3 routes in the face itself and 2 on the East and West ridges, being the oldest ones in the region (1935, Herman Hundt & Toni Widemann).
North face: Klassicheski*, VI, 3 pitches; East ridge**, III, 3 pitches; West ridge***, VI+, 1 pitch.

However, the South-east face*** is more popular. There are really beautiful routes here (about 10):
Varnika***, V+, 5 pitches; Granit***, V+/A1 obl., 5 pitches; Slavia***, VII+ max., V+/A2 obl., 5 pitches; Slavianski*, V+, 4 pitches.
Maybe the nicest one is Vezhdite or the Eyebrows*** (see picture below), VIII max., V+/A2 obl., 6-7 pitches.


The most convenient place to sleep is the mounain shelter Granitna Voda/BAK, built by Bulgarian mountaineers under the initiative of Milcho Ladov. See how it can look in the middle of August (Huh!):


 

2. Djavoilski Igli*** (Devil's Needles) are 6 crags hanging over the glacier vally Belia Ulej. There are many routes here but unfortunately many of them have already been forgoten.

The best are:
MAL**, V-, 5 pitches; Sofia***, VI+, 7 pitches; Planinetz**, VI+, 5 pitches; Sliven**, VI+, A3, 5 pitches; Plovdiv***, V+, 5 pitches; Orlovetz*, V-, 3 pitches; Eho***, VI-, 5 pitches.
There are some good routes for aid climbing (if you're a faithfull folower of Marquis de Sade), such as Narodna Armia*(see picture below), V+/A2, 5 pitches.

HOME