It’s North face (120 m high) is one of the most popular climbing walls in Bulgaria. It is situated at about 2 h from Maljovitza hut. In summer it’s more convenient to camp near the lakes Elenini or Mljovishki at about 30 min from the crag.
The first ascention (Klasicheski route)
here was made in 1938 by K. Savadjiev and G. Stoimenov. By now (as far
as I know) there are about 15 routes here.
| 1. Pleven,
VI+max, V+obl, 4 pitches
2. Bezengui, VI-max, V+obl, 4 pitches 3. Treti Kongres na BTS, V+obl, 5 pitches 4. Klasicheski, V+max, V+obl, 6-7 pitches 5. Kaminite, VI+max, V+obl, 6-7 pitches 6. Nasko, VI+max, V+obl, 5 pitches 7. Diagonala, IV+obl, 6 pitches 8. Akademik, VI-obl, 3 pitches (var. of Klasicheski) 9. Kavkaz, V+obl, 6 pitches 10. Planinetz, V+obl, 5 pitches 11. 2 Years Solidarnosc, VI-max, V+obl, 2 pitches |
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2. Mt. Orleto is situated between Mts Maljovitza and Malka Maljovitza. There are 3 or even more routes on it’s North face, but are not recommendable - the rock is extremely fragile.
3. Mt. Malka Maliovitza.
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There are some one-pitch routes on the Eastern face*.
1) IV+ 2) VI 3) VII |
4. Ushite (2560 m). It’s South face (100 m high) provides 5 old routes (IV+ - VI-obl) and 3 sport ones(VI+, VII+, IX), equiped with Longlife bolts.
