The Obsession Towards Mary on the Maltese Islands

By Kenneth Lawson

The group of Maltese islands, commonly called Malta, are located in the central Mediterranean Sea, south of Sicily and north of Africa. Malta has a fascinating history, from prehistoric temples to Phoenician and Roman civilizations, to battles between Roman Catholic Knighta and Moslem invaders, to the heavy bombing of the islands by the Germans in World War 11. But certainly the most distinguished visitor to ever reach Malta was the Apostle Paul, who was shipwrecked on Malta around the year 62, and ministered on the islands for three months before continuing his journey to Rome (Acts 28:1-11).

The Malta of today has an eclectic culture, having absorbed various cultural elements from both Europe and Africa. The islands abound with medieval fortifications, castles, churches, and civic buildings. The climate of the islands is temperate, as warm temperature, low humidity, and ever present ocean breezes make Malta an ideal place to vacation. For the church historian, Malta offers hundreds of Roman Catholic churches to explore, as well as three cathedrals and a frequently visited Marian apparition site. To a visitor, one main aspect of ecclesiastical life on Malta is readily apparent. The Maltese people have a fanatical obsession towards the virgin Mary.

Mdina was the historic capital of Malta, a medieval city located in the center of the island. Mdina maintains numerous structures which reflect its past as a center of government, Roman Catholicism, and commerce. St. Dominic's Church is typical of the hundreds of Roman Catholic churches on Malta, with its medieval architecture, large interior open spaces, and abundance of artistic representations of the virgin Mary. For example, a predominant painting in the building is an enormous depiction of Mary being worshiped by angels, handing rosary beads to a venerating patron. Farther into the structure is the "Our Lady of the Grotto Shrine," at which a silver head and shoulders statue of Mary is presented for adoration to the public, behind a slightly veiled screen. As I studied this object of affection, individuals lit candles before the image and bowed on their knees before the carving.

The Maltese Islands, with a population of around 378,000 people, have two Roman Catholic Cathedrals, and one without a dome. In Mdina is the Cathedral of Saint Paul, a large domed structure of Romanesque style. This cathedral was completed in 1702, and is a valuable example of counter-reformation cathedrals in Europe. Inside the cathedral there are multiple examples of adoration and worship of Mary. For example, upon entering the cathedral a visitor is welcomed by an elegantly carved and jeweled four-foot tall statue of Mary, with the military awards of her devotees pinned under her feet. Behind the main altar is a large eight-foot by 12 foot painting in an elaborate frame of Mary exhaled in the clouds and worshiped by angelic beings. Other side chapels have similar depictions of worship towards a heavenly Mary. Virtually every inch of the interior of this building is adomed with murals, tapestries, stained glass windows, and frescoes. In particular, my attention was drawn to a side chapel on the front right of the cathedral, where the later medieval Knights of the White Cross were accustomed to bow in their armor before an image of the virgin Mary, in appreciation for her protection of Mdina from the Moslem invaders.

Several kilometers north of Mdina is the small town of Mosta, which is home to the enormous and world renown Parish Church of Saint Mary, commonly called the "Mosta Dome." This massive structure, visible throughout almost all of Malta, was completed in 1860, and financed from contributions of the Maltese people. The gigantic unsupported dome rivals the famous dome of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. As far as sites dedicated to the virgin Mary, this structure is virtually unrivaled. Upon entering the building a visitor is immediately overwhelmed by the size and spaciousness of the structure, its pleasant use of pastel colors, and its detailed and organized presentation of religious paintings, statues, tapestries, and ornaments. There are literally hundreds of valuable paintings on display, giving the auditorium the feel of both a religious shrine and a sacred art museum. As the name of the building reveals, the prominent theme of the "Mosta Dome," the Parish Church of St. Mary, is to dedicate a structure worthy of the one who was the Mother of God and serves today as Mediatrix and Intercessor for the world.

The gigantic domed ceiling of the Parish Church of St. Mary in Mosta has a telling Latin inscription, which states, "Solio Maria Virgo Assumta Est Ad Aethereum Thalamum In Quo Rex Regum Stellato Sedet," which loosely translated in English means "Mary Alone Virgin Assumed up to Heaven's chamber [platform] where she reigns as ruler on a heavenly throne." Of the multiple paintings in this structure, the most prominent is located behind the central altar, an enormous painting of Mary as an exalted Queen, crowned in heaven, being adored by apostles and angels. Close to the seating area is a statue of Mary for her followers to caress and kiss, which was surrounded by freshly cut flowers laid at the image's feet. The theological significance of this carved image is noteworthy. The statue presents Mary as robed in the white robes of glorification, elevated upon the clouds, holding out rosary beads to her devotees, while she herself wears a scapular around her neck, and is presented as having a golden heart, displaying her immaculate conception and subsequent sinless life. Theologically, this carved object of affection advocates Mary as immaculately conceived, sinless, assumed into heaven, intercessor, an object of prayer, protector of her followers, and as the Queen of Heaven.

Two aspects of the "Mosta Dome" deserve special recognition. The first is the replica of the bomb that during World War II fell through the dome and landed on the marble floor of the building, rolling around the structure but not detonating. This so called "Miracle of Mosta" was attributed to the protection of the virgin Mary. A second aspect of the Parish Church of St. Mary is the two oversized statues of Mary, which are elegantly robed and jeweled, protected behind a glass case and paraded through the streets during feasts dedicated to the virgin Mary. One of these statues presents Mary as the crowned Queen of Heaven in intercessory prayer, while the other displays Mary as floating on a bed of roses, handing rosary beads to her devotees. These statues are designed to be carried on the shoulders of her followers and paraded through the main roads and side streets of Mosta, as thousands of people throw flowers at the fetish as an act of devotion, or place rolled prayer notes into the platform of the statue.

The modem capital of Malta is the bustling city of Valetta. This historic city has been restored and preserved, and has the impression of being in many places a medieval fortress. Many of the original bulwarks constructed in the 1500s, which successfully resisted Moslem invaders, are still in place. It is impossible to walk the streets of Valetta and not be convinced that devotion to Mary, both historic and contemporary, is widespread. Countless private homes have a small image of Mary carved into their entryways. Larger commercial buildings have statues of Mary attached to the exterior walls of their businesses. Even upon entering the main historic gate of the city of Valetta, a visitor is welcomed by an elevated bronze statue of Mary, with a crown of twelve stars upon her head, standing upon the earth as a divine sovereign, her hands extended to welcome visitors to her. As Valetta is a wonderful city to visit, a main attraction of the city is the fascinating Cathedral of Saint John.

The Cathedral of St. John is the second of Malta's three cathedrals. Being built in the 1570s, this is the most historic of Malta's numerous Roman Catholic structures. This was the location where the Knights of Saint John, clad in armor, stood for communal worship. Recent victories of the Knights of Saint John over the Moslem army at the siege of Malta (1565) and at the naval battle of Lepanto (1571) allowed for this immense building to be constructed in peace. The fagade is rather plain, framed by twin bell towers, and the exterior simplicity of the structure in a congested urban area conceals its stately and historic baroque interior. There are six chapels surrounding the nave, each dedicated to a specific linguistic group within the Knights of Saint John. The chapel dedicated to the Italian knights contains a huge but subdued portrait of Mary with the baby Jesus. The Portuguese chapel has a small glass cased icon of Mary, approximately twelve inches by eighteen inches, in which the painting of Mary is crowned in silver, framed in elegant marble, and highlighted with gold. Historically, while any citizen could worship at this cathedral, there was a specific chapel dedicated solely for use by the knights. This Maltese style baroque chapel is dominated by a large statue of the virgin Mary with emphasis on her immaculate heart.

The main religious image in the Cathedral of Saint John in Valetta is the enormous painting of Mary next to the central altar. This artwork is the object of a huge contemporary devotion to Mary, as the space before the painting is congested with lit candles and bouquets of flowers. The painting represents Mary with her hands uplifted in a welcoming gesture, dispensing grace and handing rosary beads to the world, all under the adoring stare of elaborately carved silver angles. This is a sensationally popular site on Malta for prayer to Mary, following the example of the Knights of Saint John who historically devoted themselves to Mary as their patron saint.

The Maltese village of Attard is centrally located between the old capital of Mdina and the new capital of Valetta. The main church in Attard is dedicated to the virgin Mary, called simply the Church of Saint Mary, Attard. Here is one of the finest examples of Renaissance style architecture in Malta, as it is nestled with a small outdoor park in the quaint downtown area. The building was constructed between 1613-1616 on the model of a Latin cross, having a somewhat restrained exterior adorned with statues of various Roman Catholic saints. An addition to the building in 1718 made this church building the tallest building in Attard. Across the narrow street is carved into the stone exterior an image of Mary, welcoming all to come to her. Entering the building from the side door, a visitor will be immediately surrounded with huge portraits of Mary visible from every angle, revealing her in such roles as Mediatrix, Intercessor, assumed into heaven, and adored by angels. It is significant that there is no prominent representation of Jesus in this building. The most central object of adoration in this building is the oversized statue of Mary, which rests within a case of glass, only removed and paraded through the streets of Attard on August 15th of every year, the Feast of the Assumption of Mary to Heaven. Life in the working class town of Attard centers around the Church of Saint Mary. All major social, political, and family events are focused on this facility. Devotion and even worship toward Mary in Attard is virtually unquestioned and unchallenged.

The second largest of the Maltese islands is called Gozo. This picturesque island is much smaller than the island of Malta itself and has about one-tenth the population. In taking the smooth thirty-minute ferry ride between the islands, it is significant to note that as a traveler departs Malta at the port of Cirkewwa, there is a brand new statue of Mary overlooking the harbor. As the ferry reaches Gozo at the port of Mgar-r, an older statue of Mary is evident, carved high into the cliff that ascends along the inner harbor. Whether coming or going between Malta and Gozo, an image to Mary is prominent.

Gozo is less urban than Malta and displays signs of rural Mariolatry at virtually every main intersection on the island. Roadside grottos dedicated to Mary are abundant on the island, as rural farmers seek Mary's aid in producing a favorable crop. Devotion to Mary on Gozo is centered at the Cathedral of the Assumption, the third Maltese cathedral, located in the old city within the fortified walls. This massive structure dedicated to Mary was completed in 171 1, and is in weathered yet elegant condition. After entering the old fortified city the cathedral is prominent, with an elevated statue of Mary carved high into the fagade of the cathedral, welcoming visitors. Upon entering the building to the left is another of the typical Maltese oversized statues of Mary, which are paraded every August 15th to celebrate the Feast of the Assumption. This particular fetish is unique in that it does not promote any of the typical medieval inventions, such as rosary beads or scapulars. Instead, the carved image depicts Mary in a gold trimmed gown, surrounded with adoring angels, with her hands not elevated in prayer but outstretched towards her adoring followers. The theme is obvious. Mary welcomes all who will come to her. A leisurely walk throughout the Gozo cathedral gives evidence of hundreds of the unique crosses which are the trademark of the Knights of Saint John, as well as numerous eight foot by ten foot paintings depicting scenes from the life and mythology of the virgin Mary. Behind the altar is a thematic painting for the entire cathedral, a large depiction of the Assumption of Mary realistically painted on canvas, with the added feature of an authentic golden jewel laden crown imposed on the canvas upon the head of Mary.

Adoration and worship towards Mary was clearly the passion of the Knights of Saint John, as is obvious in the Gozo Cathedral painting of Mary as the patroness of the knights, as she holds their battle flag and hovers over the island in military assistance to her followers, handing rosary beads to the adoring knights. Multiple artistic representations in the Gozo Cathedral showing the Grandmasters of the Knights of the White Cross display these military and civil leaders in absolute obeisance and worship towards Mary.

The Basilica of Ta'Pinu on Gozo is Malta's national shrine to the virgin Mary, and an important pilgrimage destination. This majestic building, which stands isolated in the Gozo countryside, is visible for miles, and designates the spot where in 1883 a local peasant supposedly had a revelation from the virgin Mary. Named Our Lady of Pinu, this structure holds the body of the original visionary and maintains a series of rooms full of discarded medical equipment and letters of affection to Mary from those who were apparently healed at this site. Exquisite tile mosaics cover the walls of this site, virtually all depicting Mary. Central to the chapel is the oldest part of the building, designated as the apparition site and tomb of the visionary. A huge portrait reveals Mary assumed into heaven being crowned the Queen of Heaven by angels. This is an interesting painting, since the artist made allowance for various crowns and jewels to be hung on the painting in accordance with the numerous Marian feasts. These jewels of royalty are displayed in a glass case beside the painting and the tomb.

The affection of the Maltese people towards the Virgin Mary of the Roman Catholic Church is of sensational proportions. Not solely for the elderly, devotion to Mary as the Mother of God and Queen of Heaven is an essential part of life for the people Malta. A cultural synergism has occur-red, so that to be Maltese means to be dedicated to the adoration of Mary. In my extensive travels on the Maltese islands and my speaking to numerous local people, I found no even elementary questioning of the common worship given Mary by the Maltese. She is reverenced because that is what their ancestors did, and because the Roman Catholic Church encourages it. All those who think outside this circular reasoning are shunned by family, society, and the culture dominating Roman Catholic Church. As in so many other cultures and societies, worship towards the mother of Jesus has become an independent religious passion, smothering the simple Biblical gospel of salvation through Jesus alone by faith through grace.