Manufacturing your hair.

          This is something very surprising. I HAD to share a few of the things that I obtained from this pamphlet and if you care to read further, it may be to your advantage to order your own copy from ISP Corp. You want the "Ethnic Hair Care Product Guide" listed under "Hair and Skin". This is FREE! There is a great deal of chemistry and chemicals listed in the pamphlet but the overall information is all you need to empower yourself into going natural.

          This is a trade pamphlet for companies looking to make products for ethnic hair. The information is not worded in a manner to offend any one group or people. It is targeted to those companies looking to get a niche,or their hands, in the big money pool that we provide for our hair care.

          I found so much information on this pamphlet that I had a hard time not copying everything. PLEASE ORDER IT! The information can be found online as well as the pictures of the damaged hair that I used in a previous page. My jaw is still on the floor over some of the things I read.

          Hair Care
           The Market and Marketability
           Relaxer Composition If you relax your hair...YOU HAVE TO READ THIS!!
          Neutralization Step PLEASE READ!!

          Hair Care Needs


           The ethnic hair care industry targets African-type hair, which, because of its unique structure, requires unique products and services.
          African-type characterization:
          Tightly curled hair is common to people of African descent. Fibers are usually shorter and are more elliptical in cross section. Hair tends to tangle, knot and break easily. Abrasion and wear at the point of curvature can also lead to cuticle loss and weak spots. Mechanical forces, such as combing, and chemical treatments easily damage this fragile hair.

          Because of these differences, there is tremendous potential for consumer product companies to market products that meet these unique needs. Many products can be developed including styling aids, conditioners, shampoos, moisturizers, curl enhancers, colorants and relaxers, that satisfy one or multiple hair care needs.

          Challenges to the Formulator:
          When formulating products for this market. the development chemist faces a variety of challenges not encountered with Caucasian or Asian hair. There are three basic reasons for these differences:

            1. Hair structure.
            Hair can be extremely curly, dry and fragile.
            2. Styles.
            Styles vary widely, including naturally curly styles, longer, straight locks and tightly braided hair as well as shorter, textured and sculpted styles.
            Men's hair styles also vary from short, shaved styles to afros to dread locks. No matter what the style, male and female consumers desire lightweight, fast drying products that enhance style and condition hair.
            3. Hair care habits.
            Data indicates that women of African descent visit a salon an average of once every three weeks; Caucasian women visit once every 7 to 8 weeks.

          The Market and Marketability


           Some consumers purchase products and services from professional salons while others use at-home products. Regardless of where the products are purchased, consumers are willing to spend money for products that address their needs. Relaxers are the largest segment of the African-type hair care market. Styling aids, moisturizing and conditioning products are also very popular.

          Styling aids are designed to help consumers achieve various hair styles. Gels, oils, sheens, holding sprays and setting lotions are the most common. Other products include moisturizers, pomades, brilliantines, conditioners, shine products, texturizers, scalp protectors, colorants and curl activators/enhancers.

          Relaxer Composition


           Consumers who choose to relax their naturally curly hair turn to chemical treatments such as alkali relaxers formulated with sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide, the latter of which is commonly referred to as a "no-lye" relaxer, as well as thioglycolate-based formulations. Some consumers choose the salon professional to apply these products, while others use at-home treatments.

          Sodium hydroxide alkali relaxers are thick creams containing 1.5-2.5% active and have a very high pH range of 12-14. Because of their aggressive nature, these relaxers require scalp protectors, such as petrolatum, to protect the skin and hair line.

          The relaxer is followed by a neutralization process which oxidizes and restores the hair's pH because high pH can cause the hair to swell and break.

          Guanidine hydroxide relaxers tend to be less damaging than sodium hydroxide relaxers. These products, however, still damage the hair and de-fat the scalp and therefore require conditioning treatments before and after. Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are formed in situ by mixing calcium hydroxide cream with guanidine carbonate "activator" solution. Thioglycolates work on the same formulation principles as thioglycolate permanent waves. With a pH of 9-9.5, these are also considered to be less damaging, yet still require a neutralization step. Thioglycolate relaxers are usually in cream or gel form and can be preceded by a pre-softener.

          Neutralization Step


           All relaxer treatments, whether sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide, leave the hair in an alkaline state. To re-balance the hair to its natural pH level, acidic "normalizing" or "neutralizing" shampoos with a pH 4.5 - 5 are usually used after the creme relaxer is rinsed from the hair. It is important to note that the rinsing time of the relaxer has a very direct bearing on how well these products work. The more the hair is rinsed the more likely cuticle damage will occur. To prevent swelling of the hair, it is recommended that a conditioning neutralizer be used instead of a shampoo. These products are applied generously to the entire head and particularly to the new growth area, scalp, and hairline to completely neutralize the alkalinity from where it is most concentrated (new growth area) to where it is least concentrated (ends): just after the relaxer creme is rinsed out (usually 95 seconds of rinsing or 45-60 seconds for short hair). The low pH of the conditioning neutralizer (pH 3 - 3.5) will handle the excess alkali. The products should be combed through to keep the hair in a straight pattern and allowed to remain on the hair and scalp for at least 5 minutes, then rinsed and re-applied for another 3 minutes before rinsing again.

          Shampooing is only offered as a service to remove/prevent the sulfury deposits in the hair. The hair and scalp should not be massaged, as the bonds may still be quite active and the scalp may be sore. It is also recommended to have very mild surfactants at this point, since both the hair and the scalp are chemically compromised.

          Using a conditioner instead of a shampoo and the elimination of extensive water rinsing is a new concept. Several new commercial products using this technology are being introduced to the market place.

          Home
          My Input: As one member from the Grow Out Club put it, "what a revolving door, selling relaxers and moisturizers next to each other". I haven't posted this so everyone with a relaxer feels that they need to go natural. But so that those with relaxers know what precautions need to be taken. For those considering relaxers, so they know what it REALLY involves. And for those who can't figure out what they have been doing wrong...to see they may not have been the only ones "doing something wrong". Your stylist needs to be aware and YOU need to be aware. Kinda hard to play the game when you don't know all the rules!