IZMIR AND THE AEGEAN REGION

The Yamanlar Camligi, a pine forest near the lovely Karagol Lake, 40 km northeast of Karsiyaka, is a popular picnic spot that also has restaurants and a swimming pool.

A Hitite bas- relief is carved into the rock at Kemalpasa (20 km from Izmir) which lies in the Karebel Pass.

On the highest point above Izmir, Belkahve overlooks the Gulf of Izmir and is a relaxing spot to enjoy a cup of Turkish coffee. A favorite haunt of Ataturk's, it is now the site of the largest statue in his honor.

The Seven Churches of the Apocalypse, mentioned by St. John in the Book of Revelations, formed separate and distinct communities, and are all found in Turkey: Izmir (Smyrna), Efes (Ephesus), Eskihisar (Laodicea), and Bergama (Pergamum). Tours of one to four days can be arranged to see several or all of the churches.

The Cesme Peninsula, lapped by the waters of the Aegean Sea, lies west of Izmir. The name 'Cesme", meaning fountain refers to the many springs found in the area during the 18th and 19th centuries. It is one of Turkey's most beautiful stretches surrounded by clear blue sea, with landscapes of cultivated fields of aniseed , sesame and artichokes dotted with fig and gum trees. In the upspoiled bays you can swim in absolute peace.Visitors will find excellent holiday accommodations, restaurants, sports and entertainment facilities.

A 14th century Genoese fortress, restored and enlarged by the Ottomans in the 16th century, dominates the small port of Cesme, 80 km from Izmir. Today the town is a popular holiday resort with excellent accommodations and restaurants. The 16th century caravanserai near the fortress, built by Suleyman the Magnificent, has been converted into a hotel, while the 19th century Church of Hagios Haralambos has been restored as the Emir Caka art gallery. Thermal baths offer a health-oriented escape from modern life. The finest quality carpets, leather goods, as well as souvenir items are available in shops here. At night, a lively, fun atmosphere pervades, especially in the restaurants, cafes, bars and discos along the promenade. Yachts can be hired to explore the Peninsula's splendid coastline.Cesme hosts an annual International Song Contest in the summer. Also, weekly ferry lines run from Cesme to Venice. The very popular holiday center of Ilica boasts an excellent white, sandy beach, and the outstanding facilities of the Altin Yunus Marina and Holiday Complex. The bay here is ideal for water sports, especially windsurfing and sailing. The thermal baths around Ilica are very popular; the best being located on Sifne Bay; Pasa Limani has a campsite which offers campers comfortable facilities.In ilica Bay, the colorful Internationl Cakabey Optimist Yacht race is held every year in July.

Ildiri, a quietf seaside village 20 km northeast o1 Cesme, was ancient Erythrai. Those who climb up to the acropolis at dusk are rewarded with beautifuul views as the sun sinks over the bay and islands. Nearby Gerence Gulf is pristine inlet northeast of the Cesme Peninsula which can be reached by yacht or car. The natural surroundings offer relaxation while the bay is ideal for water sports. In Dalyan, a fishing village built on a sheltered deep water inlet just north of Cesme, some of the region's best fish restaurants border the quay of the lively marina.

Tourists are attracted by the variety of Ciftlik's acommodations, and by a long, sandy beach (Pirlanta Plaj),just outside of town to the southwest.Camping facilities are available to the south, and nearby stretches one of the area's best beaches, the Altinkum Plaj (Golden Beach). Windmills, some of which have been converted into attractive restaurants, dot the hill above Alacati, a delightful and typical Aegean town. Alacati lies to the south inland from Ilica and the coast; a couple of kilometers to the south is a good beach. Many lovely bays, accessible only by yacht, are to be found along the coast southeast of the town and ensure peaceful and relaxing anchorage in this popular salling region.

Known in ancient times as Clazomenae, Urla Iskelesi offers a marina as well as plentiful accommodations in all price ranges. Restaurants on the top of Guvendik hill afford a marvelous view of the bay and its islands.

The prosperous little fishing village of Cesmealti is noted for its simple yet excellent fish restaurants. As you drive along the panoramic Karaburun Peninsula coastal road you pass several calm bays and quaint fishing villages: Balikova, Mordogan and Karaburun. At Karaburun, charming hotels, gardens and fish restaurants are situated between the beautiful mountain backdrop and the clear, clean water. From Manastir Mountain, you can enjoy an unforgettable view of the Karaburun coast, the Foca coastline opposite, and the entrance to the Gulf of Izmir. On the southern side of the Cesme Peninsula, near the town of Seferhisar, is the small picturesque marina of Sigacik. This important yachting center is surrounded by fortifications dating from the Genoese period and is a good point from which to visit the Temple of Dionysus at the antique site of Teos as well as the lovely Akkum beach.

South of Akkum, the New Neptune Holiday Village has windsurfiing and diving schools; this is the best area for these sports.

Gumuldur has excellent tourist facilities-beautiful beaches, restaurants and hotels.

Near Ahmetbeyli (Claros) to the east, stands the Appollo Temple and the remains of the colossal statue of Apollo.

Here you can also enjoy a good fish meal or a swim at the town's wide beach. A winding panoramic coastal road leads from Ahmetbeyli south to Pamucak beach.

The northern Aegean Region

The ancient Phocaea,Foca once formed part of the lonian League. Today it is a modern, lively holiday town on two deep bays. The pleasant accommodations, clean beaches and inviting restaurants make it an attractive holiday spot. Those seeking the perfect tan can find it on the natural rock terraces of Siren islands.

Bergama (Pergamon), once a great center of culture, survives as one of Turkey's finest archaeological sites. In the Acropolis, on a hill above the modern town, are the remains of the celebrated library a steep and impressive theatre, the temples of Trajan and Dionysus, the monumental altar of Zeus, the sanctuary of Demeter, a gymnasium laid out on three terraces and the Agora. The Asclepion, located to the southwest of the lower city, was a sanctuary dedicated to the god of health, Asclepios. In town, visit the Archaelogical and Ethnographical Museum; nearby, is the site of a temple dedicated to Serapis, becoming one of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse and subsequently converted by the Byzantines into a basilica. Dikili, frequented by cruise liners bringing visitors to Pergamon, is Bergama's harbor town. It offers a relaxing atmosphere with many pleasant restaurants lining the Kordon Promenade.A stop at the little port of Candarli, the ancient Pitane, is recommended in order to see the Genoese fortress, one of the best preserved in Turkey.

Ayvalik is a charming port, situated amid beautiful pine forests. Nearby, the Seytan Sofrasi (Devil's Table) offers a splendid panoroma of the archipelago along the Gulf of Ayvalik and the little island of Alibey (Cunda), where there are pleasant seafood res-

taurants. Sarimsakli Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. The Gulf of Edremit, also known as the Olive riviera, has a number of charming seaside resorts: Kucukkuyu,Altinoluk, Akcay (a thermal center with numerous springs), Edremit and Oren, all with beautiful beaches, ring the Gulf of Edremit and offer visitors a wide choice of hotels and guest houses with views of the sea. Also, situated here is the beautiful Kaz Dagi National Park with magnificent landscapes, restful green areas and several hot springs. According to mythology it was in this area that the world's first beauty contest was held. Under the shadow of Kaz Dagi (Mt. Ida, 1.774 meters) in Pinarbasi, west of Akcay, Paris gave the golden apple to Aphrodite in the famous "Judgement of Paris".

Behramkale (Assos)

87 km south of Canakkale province is Assos, the famous teaching center of antiquilty.

Aristotle, Plato's most famous student was invited to Assos and spent over three years living and teaching there. He married the niece of Hermeia,founded a school of philosophy and conducted his early exploratory work in zoology, biology and botany.

The acropolis of Assos is 238 meters above sea-level, and the Temple of Athena was constructed on this site in the 6th century. B.C. This Doric temple is being restored to its former glory and role as guardian of the Biga Peninsula and Edremit Gulf. Take a stroll in this area t o see the moonlight scattered through the temple ruins or rise early for the gentle awakening of dawn over the acropolis, from the top of which you can take in the magnificent vista of the Gulf of Edremit; and you will appreciate why this heavenly location was chosen. On the terraces descending to the sea are agoras, a gymnasium and a theatre. From the northern corner of the acropolis, you can see a mosque, a bridgea and fortress, all built in the 14th century by the Ottoman Sultan Murat I. Below lies a tiny and Idyllic ancient harbor. Assos has gained the reputation of being the center of the Turkish art community with its lively, friendly and bohemian atmosphere.This may be the holiday you will remember for years to come.

Canakkale

The city of Canakkale lies at the narrow, 1,200-meter entrance to the Canakkale Strait that connects the Sea of Marmara with the Aegean. Passenger and car ferries run daily between Canakkale, on the Asian side, and Eceabat and Kilitbahir, on the European side. Yachts navigating the straits stop at the well-equipped Canakkale Marina to allow tourists more time in the area.Hotels, restaurants and cafes along the promenade have a view of the Kilitbahir Fortress and the Canakkale Archaelogy Museum.

In 1451, Sultan Mehmet II, later the Congueror of Istanbul, built one fortress on the European side of the Canakkale Strait, at Kilitbahir, and one on the opposite shore at Cimenlik, to control the passage of ships through the strait.Today the Cimenlik fortress serves as a military museum dedicated to the Canakkale Battle of 1915, one of the most celebrated of World War I.

To honor the 500,000 soldiers who lost their lives at Gelibolu (Gallipoli), the peninsula was made into the Gelibolu Historical National Park. It includes memorial monuments, the Ariburnu Cliffs and Tuz Lake.The beauty of the green hills, sandy beaches and blue waters provides an honored resting place for the soldiers who bravely fought and died in this historic battle. You cannot help but sense the heart of the Turkish nation, in the special spirit of this place. Homer immortalized Truva (Troy) in the stories of King Priam,Hector,Paris and the beautiful Helen.Archaelogical excavations have revealed nine separate periods of settlement and the ruins of city walls, foundations of dwellings, a temple and theater.A symbolic wooden Trojan horse commemorates the legendary war.

As you approach Bozcaada Island, the Venetian castle commands your attention.Then, your eyes are drawn to the glistening white houses and the restaurants and cafes which line the promenade. Wine seems as plentiful as water on this island; a circuit reveals many veneyards and wine cellar.There are good, sandy beaches at Ayazma, Poyraz and Igdelik.The largest of the Turkish islands, Gokceada, is ringed with pristine bays.

Its hills, covered in the contrasting greens of pines and olive trees, are dotted with sacred springs and monasteries.Regularly scheduled ferryboats make the trip from Canakkale and Kabatepe. In August, islanders and tourists gather for colorful local fairs. TO BE CONTINUED

24 Sep 96