Airline Pilot's Historical Society


We will be adding gems of wisdom accumulated over the years. After many filthy words, broken fingers and head scratching, we will offer them to Here are a few to start with.

1.) If you have a Weber pilot seat with inop functions such as recline, fore/aft or up/down, it is usually easy to fix. Take a look at the picture: #1 arrow shows the tube which connects the adjustment handle to the actuator. The tube holds oil, which when the handle is moved, moves the release so the seat will move. If the oil is won't work. Arrow #3 shows the piston housing. The small piston inside exerts pressure in the tube when the handle is moved. At the opposite end of the tube, not shown, there is a screw as in figure 3. Remove the upper screw. Loosen screw, arrow #3. Use an oil can with a tiny opening, and also with a trigger to exert oil under pressure into the upper hole, so that it leaks from the lower hole, #3. It will go, no hard work. All you have done is re-fill and bleed that line. Tighten screw #3, replace upper screw...voila', your seat works. If it is easier to remove the lower screw, it makes no difference, as long as you loosen one and remove the other.

2.) Korry light disassembly...remove the plug in light, look into the hole. You'll see an Allen head. Voila'...unscrew it and it all comes apart.

3.) Removal and re-installation of belt segments:

a) Use a sharp probe to remove cap...

b) Use an Allen wrench to loosen center bolt. NOTE: IT TURNS BACKWARDS...RIGHT to loosen.
As it unscrews, the cap and nut will raise up and leave the bolt in the buckle. No fear of stuff jumping out...BUT DON'T LOSE THE 3 BALL BEARINGS!

c) Note the position of the cap indentations that hold the bearings.

d) Press down on the spring cams to remove belts.

e) Reverse process to install new belts, making sure the cap is positioned right to hold the bearings.

f) TURN LEFT to tighten center bolt until it stops. Then TURN RIGHT 1/8th turn so the release works smoothly.

g) Replace logo cap, and press into place using a small socket and rubber hammer.

4.) If you need gray paint to match the paint scheme in your sim, you have a choice. Either spend a lot to have it computer matched and then apply it with a professional gun in a safe place so you're not arrested for polluting the environment, all while breathing through a full face mask with its own air supply, or; spend 3 bucks a can at Walmart and use Krylon Auto Primer. Goes on easy, covers well, dries in a minute. Overcoat with Krylon "matte finish", which adds a very low shine. The match is nearly exact and it can be done legally in your shop. It also patches well if you get a scratch or flaw. No, Krylon does not give us free paint...we pay full price.

5.) To change a Boeing control column from a left to a right:

a) Remove the control wheel and mounting gear. Don't worry, you can't hurt either and they re-install easily.

b) Remove the 4 large Phillips screws in the column head and push out the shaft from the bottom side; see photo A.

c) You then can turn the head and replace the screws and gear.
If you have a full column, you'll have to remove the small tab at the bottom while you work;
photo B, showing tab has been removed.

d) One problem in changing the direction is the channel for the wiring inside the column.
The inner tube needs to be mounted on the opposite side to have the correct fit and location of the wiring loom.

Thank you to Thomas Rinnerhofer for the pictures and tip.

6.) How to remove trim wheels from 707,737,737

A rod goes all the way thru held on with a flat nut with a screw driver type slot. Use a big common screw driver to hold the center weird nut thing , #1, on one side to keep it from turning.
On the other side use the screwdriver to unscrew the nut. The rod, #2, comes right out. Pull the wheels off of the splines, no danger, they just slide off. 5 minute job.

7.) How to use J rail seats without J rails:

The idea came from Boeing. We had a set of seats that used this exact method, designed and built by weber for Boeing. Some airlines wanted sideways movement in the 737-200. So they hard mounted regular seats onto a metal platform. The platform uses 360 degree roller balls, which are available, and which allow the seat/platform to move all directions. Theirs had a second platform sandwiching the balls so the entire assembly was a unit. However; not needed in a sim, and far more complex than our method. Just mount guides to the floor that allow the platform to roll fore/aft and sideways. Make stop holes in the floor and a spring loaded stop pin in the platform. Easy to do, and has worked many times for many sim builders. It also save a HUGE amount of money.

​If you have or want to install J rail seats in your cockpit without the expense of buying rails, take a look. J rails are extremely hard to find and when we have them we charge $1500 per set, which is half the usual price. Boeing used this method on some 737 seats, although in a far more complex version for airline use. This works. It has been done many times by sim builders, and it will work for you. We are providing the drawings at NO CHARGE to help our customers, and to make our seats more marketable.​ The drawings show the basic concept in nice detail. We are not teaching you in infinite detail how to do the job...that is up to you, but this will get you started and save you $1500. If you have suggestions or improvements, let us know. It will help the next person.

8.) MD-80 front leg extension. Allows seats to sit flat and still utilize normal rails.

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