TK-312 Endor BaseHere is the Boot Tutorial and a Few Things I am Working on.
Scout Trooper Boot Tutorial
Total cost ~$50.
1 Pair of Tan, rubber soled boots. (I used a pair from Payless Shoes: "Original Rugged Outback": Wheat SportBoot: $16.99 on sale.
1 Yard White Vinyl - 55" wide (I got mine @ Joann's for 6.99/Yd)
5 Yards "Rigiline" Strapping (I think that's what it's called. It's the stuff for holding up strapless dresses)
3-5 Tubes of Superglue (~$2 each)
1 Tube of White All-Purpose Adhesive Caulk ($2.69)-it's the squeeze tube, not the gun thing.
1. Cut Vinyl into two pieces 16x36" each.(Save remaining material for toe and arch construction)
2. Cut five strips of Rigiline for each boot. 2@17", 2@14", 1@12".
3. Arrange the strips as pictured here 17" horizontal, 14" and 12" vertical.
4. Glue strips on. Top horizontal strip 1" from top edge, second horizontal about 6-8" below that.
5. Fold over other half of material and glue it to the Rigiline strips.
6. Fold over top edge and glue together to give a nice, finished look to the top of the boot trunk.
7. When complete, glue on the velcro strips so the seam forms nicely in the back of the boot trunk. I only had them go down about 12-14" from the top so I could glue the seam at the bottom (heel).
8. Cut out the toe and arch for each boot. The Toe and Arch must be cobbled to fit your boot, but here are the basic shapes I used.
9. Glue on the arches first. One side at a time. I just glued about 1-2" up the side of the boot, not on the laces.
10. Glue on the toe piece. You may need to make two "V"-shaped cuts at the tip to avoid some nasty creases (mine looked like a dog nose at first!). Cobble, cobble, cobble.
11. Now you are ready to glue on the boot trunk. Begin at the heel with one side of the vinyl material. Work your way around the side, gluing as you go. When you are finished with that side, continue around the other working back toward the heel.
12. Last, take the WHITE all-purpose adhesive caulk and seal the vinyl to the sole. I made it with ridges like the pic in the SW Visual Dictionary….
13. It dries, you wear it, you love it, you tell me how you did yours better.
Hope that helps!
For those of you who were faced with reality upon opening the box to your $60 Don Post Scout Helmet, here is a solution. I received this tip from Cris Adrian AKA Propdealer.
Go to Ace Hardware and buy the following:
1. Lexin welding face-guard...it has a green tint and should run about $5.
2. Hard-had liner...I found one with the hard hat for $5.
3. Some machine screws and nuts #6 should work fine.
4. Epoxy--not the plastic stuff.. I used the heavy duty epoxy.
Tools you will need:
1. A power drill and a 1/8" drill bit to drill out the holes.
2. Some tin snips or metal shears to cut the lexin.
Here is what you do.
1. Rip out that stupid foam crap.
2. Glue in the head restraint. (I screwed one sheetmetal screw thru the front--where the helmet would try to go through the bridge of your nose. If you try the helmet on without the foam you will understand).
3. You will need to custom shape the lexin. I traced the eye sockets from the inside and used that as a form to cut my lexin lenses. It took a couple of tries, but you should have plenty of lexin to work with. (heck I have half of mine left and I've done two helmets!) Try to get a bluelatinos.org so it almost "snaps" into place. ***but be careful not to damage the pre-existing piece of crap lens.*** Then once those are in, you can permanently affix them with the epoxy...don't use superglue or you will be walking around on cloud city if you know what I mean...
4. Drill four holes (2 on each side) in these locations: 1)the back bottom corner of the face plate. You will drill through both the face plate and the back part of the mask. Line them up right and drill. 2)the "cheekbone" area (just behind where that u-turn arrow is on the side). This is to secure the top part of that infernal flap with the face plate. Make sure the holes are wide wnough for your #6 screws, screw them in and tighten up the nuts. That should pull the sides together and narrow that beast up real nice.
Hope that helps. Let me know...
Here are some pics of my armor (one day turn around from kit in box to wearable goods!)
Armor is from Cris Adrian www.goldenarmor.com It looks great! Cris is a very honest and helpful armor maker.
Blaster and Saber Parts
Here are pics of the trooper blaster I made and the list of major parts.
Here are the parts as I remember them.
One 1/2" or 5/8" plastic conduit (for the muzzle)
Windshield Wiper blades (the rubber part, not the metal..I know, I know...)
A circuit Cover Box from Radio Shack (for the mock counter on the side)
An FM car radio booster from Walmart for the power clip.
One 1 1/4" dia. galv. metal conduit pipe (I drilled the holes for the cooling vents)
The grip off a $14 bb-gun from walmart ( I had to cut it up and screw/epoxy/bondo it to the pipe.
$6 Tasco Scope also from Walmart (which I cut because it was too long)
1/2" or 3/4" Aluminum, machine screws/nuts/washers, and a metal bushing at the axis)for the WORKING folding stock.
Misc screws and junk I had lying around the house.
Much epoxy and a little bondo.
All total I spent about 70$, but I have so much stuff left over, to make another one would probably only cost another $30 or so.
As for the saber... a custom saber based initially on Luke's ROTJ saber.
All parts from Ace Hardware
12" long threaded rod (i think 1/2" dia)
Many metal washers and rubber grommets
A bronze bushing for the emitter
2" steel key and part of a circuit board for the control bar.
a brass knurled knob and another knob from some knob bin :) which I painted platinum (was going to paint it red)
A piece of 1 1/2" Plumbing pipe
Some nuts to hold the pices tight on the threaded rod (hidden beneath the fender washer at the emitter end)
And the grip from a flash light for the black saber grips. (the end has a place to put in a d-ring or some other ring for hanging on a belt.
Here's another one I just made.
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