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  The  city  is  a  great  introduction  to princely  Gujarat-a  former Nawabi  capital,  filled  with  palaces,  minarets  and  colonial period  buildings. A  short  distance  from Girnar, Junagadh  was  the  historic  capital  of  the  Mauryan  and Gupta  dynasties  upto  the  5th  century  AD,  the  Chudasama Rajputs   in  the  9th-15th  century,  the  governors  of  Sorath  appointed  by  the  Mughal empire   in  the  17th  century, and  finally  the  Babi  Nawab  dynasty  upto  1947.  
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   The   city  is  dominated  by  the Uparkot  fort,  which  rises  from  a hill,  with  old palaces,  Buddhist  caves, stepwell,  tanks, moats  and  huge   battlemented  walls.  The  2  maqbara  complexes,  the  old palace(part  of  it  is  now   the Darbarhall  museum),  the Junagadh  museum, Narsinh  Mehta  choro  and Sakkarbagh  zoological park  are  other  attractions  of  Junagadh.  
 
  For some inexplicable reason ignored by travel operators and FIT tourists, Junagadh offers a tremendous variety of monuments, museums and wildlife, and a unique at mosphere of the Nawabi period like a miniature Hyderabad.

 The name itself evokes visions of old forts and medieval walls, palaces and tombs. And yet it seems almost paradoxical, that Junagadh is best known neither for the majestic Uparkot fortress which still dominates the city nor for the newer walled city of the Nawabi period, but for it's association with emperor Ashoka, who relinquished warfare after witnessing death and destruction during the battle of Kalinga and carved inscriptions preaching the Buddhist philosophy of ethical conquest rather than military conquest.

  
 
  ASHOKA'S ROCK EDDICTS  
 
  One of the major sets of rock eddicts of Ashoka is still legibly inscribed on a rock on the outskirts of Junagadh, and protected by an archaelogical survey of India building. The inscriptions were reported in 1822 by Todd, but really came to light only in 1837 when Rev. Dr John Wilson copied them and in 1843 when the Royal Asiatic society published them in the Bombay branch journal. The 16 principals preach virtues like matery of the senses, purity of thought, gratitute, devotion, self control, secular thinking and kindness, while oposing animal sacrifice and greed. They speak of his repentance for death and destruction caused during wars waged by him, his pilgrimages and his attempts to send people around the realm to preach the principles of non violence.Another famous peace maker in the historic annals of Junagadh is the religious poet Narsinh Mehta who dwelt here from 1414-1480 AD. His shrine can still be seen in the city, and his portrait stands alongside one of Mahatma Gandhi in the railway stati.  
 
  NAWABI PALACES  
 
  But by the middle of the 19th century, peace reigned under the British umbrella,and the Nawabs moved down from Uparkot, and started built the walled sections of Junagadh, which is still a picturesque city with monuments and gardens. The Nawabs depended for their state's development on assisitance from the British colonial rulers, and in consequence the preffered style of architecture was Venetian Gothic, as can be seen from the palaces and the public institutions-clock towers, schools, bazaars, hospitals, city gates, district court, prison and most of all, the imposing Bahauddin college. The buildings have thick walls, carvings, cornices and elegant columns outside, while the interiors had wall paintings and stucco or canvas false ceilings. The 160 sq foot hall of the Bahuddin college is noted for it's wood carvings seen on the timber roof, the galleries and the carved brackets, the Sardar bagh palace for it's stucco carvings and the Rang mahal palace for it's fancy canvas ceiling.  
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  One of the best examples of the palace architecture of this period is the City palace near the Uparkot, which dates from 1870 Ad whose darbarhall is now a museum which has attempted to recreate with some success, the glory of 19th century Nawabi Junagadh. I found the darbarhall to be a showpiece of the period, when the Nawabi rule was at it's zenith, with silver plated thrones, fine carpets and huge chandeliers, but the tube lights mar the atmosphere-a real let down when there are so many chandeliers which could be used to illuminate the room. From here, I proceeded to the collection of howdahs and palanquins, which enhance the royal ambience, the prize exhibit being an exquisitely carved silver plated howdah with silver mer6maids at the corners and a silver tiger gaurding the velvet cushioned seats. In another room, the carpets and other textiles make an impressive spectacle- there is a red silk carpet set with diamonds like stars of a crimson sky, and some carpets lavishly embroidered with go thread. The royal armoury exhibits Nepalese Kukris, armour, turtle shell shields, swords, daggers, medieval weapons, rifles and period hand guns. Throughout the palace museum, you find royal portraits and paintings. Outside the city palace is partially burnt but offers a glimpse of it's old patrician architecture. The Willingdon  dam  at 

Uparkot  fort  came  up  during  the Nawabi  period.

 
 
  MAQBARA  
 
  The older complex of maqbaras (mausoleoms) of the Nawabs of Junagadh, located near Chitkana chowk offer some remarkable 18th century architecture with vertical columns, delicate carved arches, cornices and domes in a range of sizes, the whole accentuated by a wealth of brilliant stone carvings. The newer complex, near the town gates, is even more impressive and attractive, besides being better maintained. The naya Maqbara complex was started by Mahabat Khanji in 1878, completed in 1892 by his successor, Bahadur Khanji, and enshrined also Rasul Khanji in 1911 ADThe complex includes the mausoleom of Baha-ud-din, minster of Nawab Rasul Khanji, which has an almost funfairish flamboyance-4 minarets with pirouetting spiral staircases, a facade rich in stone carvings, beautiful silver doors and large sized domes mark the architecture of this tomb of the great minister in the Nawabi court, titled Vazir-e-azam. Beside the maqbaras is the Jumma mosque, dated to 1886-97 which has geometric rows of  coloured pillars leading to a cool marble minbar, and an Islamic religious school.  
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Maqbara

  
   
 
  OTHER NAWABI PERIOD MONUMENTS  
 
  Roaming around the streets of Junagadh look for a number of old havelis, known for their jarokhas (intricately bracketed balconies) and wood carvings and the town gates including the Majevdi gate, the Junagadh gate near the new Maqbara cluster and the Reay gate, an imposing 2 storeyed cresent archway with domes and minarets. The New Bazaar and the Sardar bagh garden are other reminders of the Nawabi period.  
 
  UPARKOT  
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    The walled fortress of Uparkot, witnessed every change in the lifestyle of Junagadh from monastic Buddhism, Aryan Hinduism, pious Jainism, Islamic invasions, British colonisation, the Nawabi spendour and finally, the victory of democracy which forced the Nawab to vacate his throne after he was heavily out-voted in the elections. Like the acrpolises of ancient Greek cities, the Uparkot is built on the defences of rocky hills and the entire modern city sprawls around it. It was an important city during Mauryan rule, became the capital of the Kshtrapas after the fall of the Mauryan empire in the 2nd-4th century AD period, was rebuilt by the Chudasama Rajputs in the 9th century and finally fell to Sultan Muhamad Bhegada. In all, the fort is said to have been subjected to 16 seiges, including one which lasted 12 years over a beautiful daughter of a potter. The girl was coveted by a neighbouring prince, and came for refuge to the ruler of Junagadh, who promptly married herIn the war that followed, the chivalrous prince of Junagadh was killed in 1094 AD, and the girl committed Sati on his funereal pyre.  
   
 

Uparkot  fort

    
   
 
   Inside the massive battlemented walls of the Uparkot, as opposed to other forts where you would expect to see it outside, is a huge moat, said to be around 300 ft deep which not only prevented enemies who successfully scaled the high walls from entering the citadel, but was also said to be a sort of death chamber with crocodiles for throwing convicts and captured enemy warriors. Beyond the moat, is the Buddhist cave, which goes down some 3 storeys and is dated by archaelogists to around 2nd century AD- much younger than the Baba Pyara and Khapra cave complexes-because of the delectable carvings on the 6 pillars, though it is difficult to judge if the actual excavations were earlier and the carvings done later.  
 
   A little beyond Uparkot's Buddhist cave is the Adi Charan Vav, which comes as a real surprise, with a spectacular staircase of 120 steps going down to the bottom. The well is said to date from the 11th century and is named for 2 slave girls who fetched water from it. The Navghan Kuva is another spectacular stepwell, dated from 1060 Ad and named for Navghan, the Rajput ruler of Junagadh at that time, with 7 flights of spiralling steps taking you down 120 feet to the water source through a 10 ft wide passage. The only standing structure in Uparkot other than the walls is the Ranak Devi palace, with it's carved jarok has and huge pillars, which Sultan Muhammad Bhegada tried to convert into a mosque but could not complete the work. In a corner of the fort are 2 monumental canons-the Nilam canon whose bronze inscriptions in Arabic state that "the canon was cast in 1531 AD to fight the incursive Potugese who are infedal enemies of state and religion" and the smaller Ottoman canon which was brought here after Diu was lost to the Portugese and only mentions the name of it's caster. Between the canons and Willingdon dam, which is still an important water supply for Junagadh, is the lovely garden laid out by the Archaelogical survey of India.

Besides the main cave in Uparkot, there are a number of Buddhist caves hewn into the soft rocks behind the fort. The Khapara Kodhia cave complex is a fascinating hermitage, though badly damaged and without it's first storey, with monastic cells and water sources. The Baba Pyara cave complex is more atmospheric and has 13 monastic caves with carvings of Buddhist symbols.

  
  SAKKARBAGH  
 
  Junagadh museum in Sakkarbagh, has a memorable collection of of pre-historic and proto-historic implements made from stone and bone, stone sculpture including a 9th century Vishnu, bronze sculpture of the medival period, copper inscriptions and manuscripts, consorting with an average collection of silverware, glass, porcelain, wood carvings, traditional textiles, folk art and unimpressive miniature paintings.

Around the museum is the Sakkarbagh zoological park, one of the few places in the world where the pure bred Asiatic lion is breeding successfully. Here you find a sizable collection of mammals, birds and reptiles from Indian species.

  
 

GIRNAR
The Yatra to this place is more of an adventure. If you are unable to walk up to the destination, you have the facility of hiring a 'doli' or the sling chair. And one has to cover 4000 steps to reach the place. Here, you come across some fascinating ancient Jain temples, located at the peak of the Girnar mountains. The most famous, regarded the best, is the temple built in the honour of Neminath. Nearby is the Amba Mata temple (the temple of the mother goddess). It is surprising to know that most of the devotees visiting this place are newly weds. 

They come here to seek the blessings of the deity for a blissful married life. A little ahead from here, is a Muslim shrine, which is believed to create miracles. Childless women come here to worship for progeny. Descending a little from the mountain, you face the Bhavnath temple, which is dedicated to lord Shiva. It is situated at the foot of the Girnar mountain. A major event is celebrated here every year, the Mahashivratri. It is held for five days in the month of February. 

The most important ritual of the celebrations is the 'mahapuja' of Lord Shiva. The puja is performed at midnight in the temple on the 14th day of the waning moon of the Indian month of Magh. When the Mahapuja starts nag bavas (naked mendicants) living in and around Junagadh come to the fair in a procession, seated on elephants holding flags and blowing conch shells and sounding tungis and turis. If you happen to be around at this time of the year join the parikrama or trek around the Mt. Girnar which commences before at times after Mahashivratri.
 
GETTING THERE Convenient overnight trains
PLACES TO STAY  
- LUXURY/HERITAGE  Riverside palace/Orchard palace, Gondal(60 kms), Taj group’s Gir lodge(60 kms), Maneland jungle lodge(60 kms).
- DELUXE  
- MODERATE President, Girnar tourist bungalow, Relief, National, Vaibhav
- BUDGET/GUEST HOUSE  Murlidhar, Jaishree, tourist
PLACES TO EAT Sagar(N Indian), Swati(N Indian), Santoor(N Indian), Geeta(Gujarati), Sharda(Gujarati)
 

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