A two-man pup tent does not
include two men or a pup.
[How much to spend]
[What kind]
[Basic
Styles]
[A-Frames]
[Dome or Pop Tents] [Hoop
Tents]
[Bivy] [Cabin
Tents / Family-style Tents ] [Backpacking
Tents]
[Shape]
[Features to Look For] [Size]
[Weight] [Ventilation]
[Three Season Tent] [Four
Season tent] [Tent Fabric]
[Tent Poles] [Workmanship]
[Waterproofing]
[Set-up] [Color]
[The Fly]
[Additional
Tips] [Ground
Sheets] [Washing
Your Tent]
[Care
& Maintenance] [Staking
Your Tent]
Sleeping
in the countryside, away from city lights, out under the stars on a
clear night is simply spectacular.
However,
waking up in the middle of the night during a downpour can be quite miserable.
Just
waking up in the morning covered with dew is bad enough.
There
is a solution to this problem:
put
a roof over your head.
Your
campsite bed is made;
you've
geared up with
pads,
mats, sleeping bags, air mattresses, sheets, blankets, comforters
and pillows
to
get a good night's sleep.
Now
you need to insure that cozy campground slumber with an appropriate
tent to shield you from the wind, the sun and the rain and also to
protect you from unfriendly outdoor
pests like flies, mosquitoes and no-seeums.
HOW MUCH SHOULD I SPEND ON A TENT, OR TENTS?
Mama always said,
"always buy the best you
can afford".
That advice is as good as ever
when it comes to tents. However that is not to say you have to break
the bank.
Obviously there must be some difference to justify the price.
Let's put it this way.
If we were climbing Mount Everest, then we would
choose the $700.00 tent. It would stand up to the high winds, and the
material would not shred because of those same winds in the extreme
cold. However, if we are taking some young scouts for a weekend
camping trip in the park, the $29.99 tent should stand up to those
elements very nicely.
You
need to think of your tent as an investment.
It's
much better to spend an extra amount on a quality tent than to skimp.
A
cheap tent, may work all right in good weather, but as soon as the
wind rises and the skies open up, forget it.
You'll
be miserable.
In
many cases, a good tent can make a nightmare scenario downright cozy.
So
spend as much as you can afford, but always go with quality.
What kind of tent?
Determine the Purpose of the Tent
If
being used for family camping--consider comfort, space and ventilation
If
backcountry camping--consider weight, size and durability
Tents
today come in all shapes
and sizes to meet a variety of camping needs and weather situations.
There
are a few things to consider when purchasing a new tent.
Floor
The floor should be the most water-resistant part of the tent. Because you are putting pressure on the floor of the tent, you can draw water into the tent through the fabric. This is why most floors are heavily coated with urethane for waterproofness.
Things to Consider:
Look
for a tent with a one piece floor, it's less likely to seep water
than a floor with seams.
|
BATHTUB FLOOR:
Most tents now come with a
"Bathtub" like bottom. This is generally a heavier duty
material than the sidewalls, and usually is waterproof. This
does not alleviate the need for putting now a tarp under your tent,
which is still a good idea. The "Bathtub" like bottom
does remove the need for trenching around tents. Trenching occurred
years ago when tents had no bottoms, or had canvas bottoms that did
not repel water. The trenches directed the water away from the
tent. The tent bottoms of today have earned the name
"Bathtub" bottoms, because the material used to make the
bottoms usually goes 2-4 inches above floor level. Although many people have stopped using bottom tarps because of these newer bottom designs, it is still a good idea. It is another layer between the possible damp/wet ground and your tent floor. Not only is this potentially warmer, but it helps keep the tent cleaner. You might see these advertised at footprints. This is because you do not want your tarp sticking out from the sides around the tent. If this occurs, then rain water would collect on the tarp possibly make its way under your tent.
|
Polyweave:
This
is the same stuff you use to cover your trailer or boat with.
Floors
made of this material are good at repelling water but can tear
easily on sharp rocks.
They
are heavier than nylon floors and are thicker so tents with
polyweave floors don't pack as small or as light as tents with nylon floors.
This
floor costs considerably less to make than a nylon floor with a
light urethane coating, yet provides better waterproofness.
Nylon:
Nylon
floors come in many different weights and are a sometimes hard to differentiate.
The
best way to differentiate is by touching the fabric on different tents.
Better
tents use 3 ounce (per square foot), 70 Denier (a measurement of
weave) nylon taffeta or greater or 210 Denier Oxford nylon (a bit heavier).
These
materials are far more abrasion resistant than lighter weight nylon.
Untreated nylon is not water repellent so it must be treated with
urethane (see treatments).
When
treated with enough urethane a nylon floor can become watertight.
Treatments:
The
floor is the part of the tent that requires the highest degree of waterproofness.
Treatments
are urethane based and can be applied in two ways.
One
is a liquid form that is poured onto the fabric and a knife-edge is
rolled over the fabric to distribute it evenly. A single pass can
yield waterproofness to up to 35 PSI of water pressure. The more
passes, the more waterproof the fabric becomes.
The
second method is to laminate one sheet of urethane to the fabric.
This method costs much less and provides a greater degree of
waterproofness up to 200 PSI.
Regardless
of the method used, the floor fabric should be treated to a minimum
of 100 PSI. Anything less and you may need to wear a life jacket
before falling asleep.
The
treated side of the fabric should be on the inside of the tent,
because friction with loose dirt and small rocks will eventually
deteriorate the treatment.
Construction:
A factor not to be overlooked is the construction.
A
floor made of the most waterproof fabric will still leak if there
are seams on the floor which are not properly sealed.
Many
companies tape their floor seams, so as to avoid having the consumer
seam seal the floor themselves.
However, most companies fail to tape the corners that are prone to leakage. If the corners are not properly sealed, take the time to do it yourself.
Groundsheets:
If
you could spend five bucks and 15 minutes to ensure a long and happy
life, would you?
Of
course you would!
And
one of the best things you can do for a tent is to use a groundsheet religiously.
Although the bottom of your tent is made of reinforced material that is thicker than either its rain fly or tent walls, the forest floor is an abrasive place. To prevent accidental punctures from rocks and the like, lay a plastic ground cover under the tent's floor.
Most tents on the market now have a fully sewn in groundsheet, often with what's called a 'bath-tub' floor design. This is where the groundsheet extends further up the side of the tent to eliminate any water penetration from the side seams.
Mountain tents commonly use a groundsheet material made from neoprene coated nylon, which is extremely waterproof and durable but heavier than the normal PU coated nylon groundsheets. In the cheaper end of the tent market a polythene material is used as it is robust, waterproof and inexpensive but it is heavy and noisy!
Thin polyethylene sheeting from a hardware store is a lightweight, inexpensive option to go under your tent.
Old shower curtains make great ground clothes.
They should not extend beyond the edge of the tent; otherwise they will collect moisture which could enter your tent.
This groundsheet should be cut to fit the shape of the tent floor-as big, but no bigger. A groundsheet that peeks out from the edges of the tent will channel water underneath, and no degree of waterproofing will stop water from seeping inside. You can buy material for groundsheet at both outdoor-equipment and hardware stores. Plastic from hardware stores is perfectly fine and often cheaper.
Making
your own groundsheet
For materials you'll need a large sheet of waterproof material, scissors, a marker, some duct tape and grommets (optional).
|
Step 1: Lay the uncut groundsheet out and set up your tent on top of it (without rainfly and vestibule). Stake the tent out tautly. Step 2: Using the marker, trace the outline of the tent. Step 3: Trim the excess, following an invisible line that is 2 inches inside the line you traced. This is to prevent any overhanging fabric, which will direct rain underneath your tent's floor. This is very important! When your trimming is complete, no portion of the groundsheet should extend beyond the footprint of the tent. Optional Step 4: If you plan on using nylon (a good choice because of its light weight and durability), disregard Step 3 and cut exactly along the traced line. Then fold over the edge of the groundsheet all the way around and sew a 2-inch hem to prevent the fabric from fraying. Optional Step 5: Instead of cutting uniformly 2 inches inside your tracing, leave the corners on the original line and arc the sides inward. Then attach grommets to the corners. By looping the grommets over the tent pole tips, you've firmly attached the groundsheet. Plus you can use it as a pack cover in the rain, a cooking shelter or a vestibule extension. Optional Step 6: If you use a shower curtain, polyethylene or Tyvek, cut long strips of duct tape in half, lengthwise. Then carefully fold the strips over the edges of the groundsheet. This will protect the edges from tearing or shredding. |
Make
sure the rain fly
is an adequate size, covering most of the tent with an extended
section at the door to allow entry without soaking the inside of the tent.
Make
sure the tent is big enough to accommodate all the campers
plus
a place to stow their gear.
Particular
circumstances, like snow camping, beach camping, or backpacking, may
call for specialized tents, accessories or considerations.
Let's
look further into the aspects of selecting a proper tent.
Basic Styles
Understanding
tent lingo has become as complicated as translating
at
a United Nations conference.
Here
are a few definitions to help guide you through this dilemma.
Keep
in mind the three basic components of a tent: the
poles,
the canopy, and the rain
fly,
the latter two of which are separate in a two-walled tent and
combined in a single-walled tent.
Additionally,
most tents come equipped with stakes
and a stuff sack.
Single-walled
versus double-walled tents.
Traditional
tents have a nylon body, which may be covered by a
polyurethane-coated rain
fly.
However,
modern fabric technology has resulted in single-walled tents made
from waterproof/breathable material that does not require a rain
fly
for protection against moisture.
Generally,
double-walled tents are heavier than their single cousins, but are
also less expensive. The advantage of double-walled tents is that
they breathe well (the canopy and fly
have several inches of space between them, or the fly
can be removed completely), with less condensation forming on the
interior walls.
Also,
if you are accident-prone, a punctured rain
fly
can be repaired or replaced, leaving the main tent intact.
Rain
flies
that have lost their waterproofness can also be replaced with less
cost than is required to buy a new single-walled tent.
What
shape tent you purchase is just one of the many factors involved in
finding the tent that is just right for you.
The
shape of the tent, of course, determines a lot,
but
you will also find that even if you are in a car,
the
weight, size,
ventilation, tent materials, tent poles,
workmanship, waterproofing,
set up and color
will also matter.
For
example, if you drive a Geo Metro, it is doubtful you'll want to
fill your car with a full-sized
cabin tent.
Evaluating
tent designs can be a little daunting;
many
will have similar features,
but
look completely different when erected.
Most
tent designs, however, are variations on the following five configurations.
The
A-frame tent is becoming outmoded
as
newer, sexier-looking dome
tents
take over the market.
Experienced
campers, however, swear by their reliability in the face of bad
weather-in spite of their old-fashioned design, which features two
sloping sides falling away from a rigid center pole, a design that
catches the wind but sheds water quickly.
This
design offers less interior space for the size than more
contemporary designs but offers more interior height.
A-frames are often lighter in weight than domes because there are often fewer poles.
While most A-frames require stakes, some modified A-frames are freestanding.
A-frames
tend to cost less than their dome-shaped cousins,
and
this may be only one of the reasons to choose this tried-and-true design.
Domes
This
style of tent is by far the most popular recreational tent around.
It
offers plenty of floor space and is designed to ride out heavy winds.
Are more aerodynamic and stable, with a sleeker profile to shed water and wind effectively.
Dome
Tents are generally easy to set up.
You
usually slide 2 or 3 poles made of
aluminum or fiberglass, through sleeves on the tent and then pull
them up to the round shape and put the ends in little
"corners" of fabric.
The
poles come in several sections and are
attached with interior cord
Dome
tents are preferable if you will be in an area that is prone to high
winds because the shape makes for little risk of collapsing.
Dome
tents usually are packed into one bag for both the tent and poles.
Some
manufacturers color-code the sleeves, and this helps.
In
bad weather, having practiced pitching your tent beforehand will be
a dress rehearsal if you have to do it quickly.
The
drawback of dome tents is that they usually aren't as tall or roomy
and
the floor plan isn't as efficient as the standard A-frame rectangle
for sleeping.
The
sloping sides of the dome mean that you will hunch over a lot, even
in large tents that have standing room directly under the center of
the dome.
Their
crisscrossing poles,
producing
a hexagonal, octagonal, or similar geometrical shape, make
them extremely rigid
-
therefore good in windy conditions.
|
Octagonal? Hexagonal?
Sleeping
bags and duffels are rectangles, why would you want a Hex shaped tent? - just my opinion |
Domes
are classified as freestanding, meaning you can pitch them without
using guylines
(ropes tied to trees and other supports) and stakes,
attaching these after the tent is up.
Freestanding
tents also offer the added convenience of portability;
you
can set them up in one location and move them-in one piece-to another
(within
a reasonable distance)
if
your first site is too rocky or uneven.
"Freestanding"
does not mean leaving your tent unstaked.
At
the very least, staking is required to help pull the rain
fly
taut (and therefore rainproof) at midpoints on each side of the tent.
Bear
in mind that an unstaked, freestanding tent can become airborne when
hit with a good gust of wind.
Some tents are made of rain-resistant material, but many are constructed with light, breathable nylon and are protected by rain flies.
The
great thing about a good dome is the way they take the rain. The
secret is the fly. A good fly will have enough overhang to let you
keep the windows open in a pretty good rain, this adds to comfort.
Also
hidden behind the fly is a tent that is largely mesh fabric. Air is
able to come up under the fly and pass in and out of the tent
offering ventilation and privacy. This is important both to keep cool
on summer nights and to release moisture in cooler seasons.
A
good fly will come down to near the ground and can be staked out so
that a straight falling rain will never touch the actual tent!
Hoop
Tents
This
tent design may have been the originator to the more adaptable and
improved dome tent.
Designed
for use by serious backpackers
(and
others who opt to shed the weight of heavier tents),
the
hoop tent is a usually cylindrical design with curved sidewalls.
Hoop tents are lightweight because they use only two poles, but are a bit less spacious than domes or A-frames.
These
tents aren't as rugged in high winds, rain, or snow as A-frames or
Domes, but their shape is highly efficient for both weight and floor space.
Hoop
tents generally incorporate three arched frame stays, which allow
for nice roomy doors and high ceilings.
Some
of these tents feature a fold-back covering that permits occupants
(in
pleasant weather)
to
see the sky through extra-big panels of mosquito netting.
Although this design can withstand high winds, some models with sloped entrances encourage rain to migrate inside.
Hoop tents are for weight-conscious backpackers.
The
Bivvy
(Tent
and Sack)
Bivouacs come in two styles:
a
tent version, which is essentially a hoop tent;
and
a bivvy sack, which encloses a single person like a cocoon.
Bivouac
(or bivy) sacks are one-man "tents" that typically exist
in the domain of the serious hiker.
These
"tents" resemble narrow tubes that have the unfortunate
reputation of sealing in body moisture because the walls of the tent
aren't allowed to "breathe" as they do in other tent designs.
Bivvies often have a large hoop that supports the front end, keeping the fabric off your head.
Besides
the breathability problem, there is also no room for camping gear
inside the tent; equipment left outside could be soaked in a downpour.
In
this case, you'll have to cover your equipment with some sort of
rainproofing-in the form of plastic garbage bags or under a rain
poncho, or tarpaulin.
"Bivvy"
sacs have no supporting ribs.
In
effect, the bivvy sac is a form of sleeping bag cover that offers
some waterproofing and wind protection (not insulation). There is
even less room inside these types of "tents," which have
the unfortunate nickname-and rightly so-of "body bags."
Family-Sized Tents
Last,
but not least, are family-sized tents designed to accommodate up to
six people. These are made more for car campers; they're less
practical for backpackers, cyclists, or those traveling by canoe.
These
weighty monsters are really more like the equivalent of a log cabin
with apartment-size rooms and "windows"; they weigh between
20 and 30 pounds.
Family tents are multiroom tents designed for those who plan to stay at the same site for longer periods of time.
Their large, square designs have high ceilings and vertical walls. They have plenty of space for cots, chairs and coolers.
Large,
six- to eight-person family tents that open with screened sides are
a delight for summer camping.
Family-style
tents, for lack of a better word, come in a variety of styles
descended from the canvas designs of my youth.
There
are umbrella styles, cottage designs, cabin tents, modified dome
designs, and others that defy simple description.
The
main difference between these tents and their forebears are the
fabrics-nylon walls, taffeta floors, and, occasionally, canvas poplin
roofs-and the superstructure, which usually consists of aluminum tubing.
Family
tents are bulkier, heavier, and take a little more time to pitch
than dome tents.
Most
are not free-standing, so you must stakes
down the corners before erecting them.
Family
tents aren't as stalwart in a strong wind as dome designs, but they
are roomier for a given floor space, have more standing room, and
usually offer better ventilation.
Some
come with room dividers, awnings, or additional rooms that can be
added with zippers.
If
you have a large family or expect to spend a lot of time in your
tent, a family-style tent would be a good choice.
The
dome style is more convenient for shorter trips, or on vacations
where you're moving camp every couple of days.
Canvas
Tent
I
have had plenty of experience with both dome and cabin tents and my
personal opinion is that either one is fine for most use and it is
really a matter of personal preference.
I've
been more than happy with our cabin tent!
There are many specialty backpacking tents on the market, most of them based on a modified dome or geodesic design with arcing poles. Some are as complicated as lunar landing modules. Designed to stand up under harsh conditions, they are typically made for sleeping, keeping your gear dry, and little else.
But unless you are considering bicycle or canoe camping, or, of course, backpacking, they don't provide enough room to be a good choice for families.
Features to Look For
Consider Quality of Other Features
Stitching
and seams
Zippers
Look
for tents with nylon-coil zippers. They're less prone to breaking
than metal zippers, and are lighter. Examine a tent's zippers
carefully: Sticky or recalcitrant zippers may be a sign of future trouble.
Broken
Zippers? Click
Here
Window
and Door mesh
Flooring
Tie
Downs
Stakes
Size
How big does the tent need to be?
Determine the Size and Weight
What type of activity
How many people
How much gear to store in tent
Tent
sizes do not include room for gear storage.
Consider
purchasing a larger tent for this purpose
If
it's just you and your spouse, then you obviously don't need to get
a monster tent that's made for 8 people.
On
the other hand, if you're camping with the Brady Bunch, then you
will need a larger tent.
Also,
will you need to keep any campers separate?
If
so, there are tents that have two or three "rooms".
These
tents are divided into two or three separate living areas, and they
are perfect if you want to keep girls in one room and boys in
another, or parents in one room and kids in another.
|
Tip |
Another
thing to consider when deciding on the size of your tent is whether
or not you plan on storing any gear inside the tent. If you want to
keep the cooler and other items in the tent, then get a tent that's
rated for 1 or 2 more people higher than you normally would.
Some
tents even have a separate "dining room". This is usually
a screened-in area for eating and lounging.
Tents
are rated for people sleeping . . .
period!
If
you want to have your clothing duffel etc. with you . . .
add
to the head count, start with at least 50% more
The
most important thing to look for in a camping tent is roominess.
Are
you tall?
Is
there enough room to stretch out to your full length when you are in
your sleeping bag?
What
about headroom?
Do
you have enough room to sit up comfortably?
Do
you intend to spend a lot of time in your tent?
Decide how much room is important to you before purchasing a tent.
Tent
manufacturers tend to overestimate the number of people their tents
can accommodate.
If
a tent claims it holds one to two people,
it
usually means exactly that (holds one to two people)
and
with little room for much else.
Two
people will be a tight fit without their gear, and one person will
fit with plenty of room for clothes, food, etc.
Keep
that in mind when considering how much you want your tent to hold.
Cabin tents are big with high ceilings and large windows.
Multi-room
models are available.
Dome tents are smaller,
stable and better in varying weather conditions.
They
are easy to setup and take down
When you are making your tent wish list, remember that you will be responsible for how the tent reaches the campground, be it a primitive site in a state forest or a fully-equipped site at the nearest KOA. For backpackers, the most important feature of a tent is its weight. Car campers, on the other hand, are more interested in roominess and comfort. Even so, carrying more tent than the camping trip calls for can be almost as much of a mistake as not having an adequate tent. Some of the larger family tents weigh in excess of 30 pounds.
Don't purchase a huge, bulky, heavy tent if your time in the tent is limited to the eight hours you will be sleeping in it. If your tent will be used only for the "rest" half of R&R, you might want to look into one of the less expensive small family camping tents.
However,
if you head out on a camping trip in a heavy duty vehicle intending
to set up a base camp for several days or more, the larger tents may
be worth the bulk as well as the price.
Many
campers (like
us)
set up in state parks, particularly those on lakes or the ocean, and
live in the campground for a week or more.
Ventilation
This
is another important feature to look for when shopping for a tent.
On
hot, buggy nights there is nothing worse than being stifled in a
poorly ventilated tent.
Many
tents these days offer plenty of no-see-um netting for cross ventilation
as
well as protection
from bugs.
Well
ventilated tents also have fewer problems with condensation build-up
inside the tent than tents sealed up tight. If you are planning only
cold weather camping, this feature won't be necessary.
Are
you a spring/summer/fall tent-user, or do you like to extend camping
into the winter as well?
Do
you think you'll take your tent primarily on backpacking, rafting,
sea kayaking, or car camping trips?
Or
do you enjoy heading up into the mountains where you'll be exposed
to the elements:
snow,
wind, rain, hail, sleet, and all those fun experience-builders?
Three Season Tent
Most
tents can be classified as three-season. In other words, their
construction makes them comfortable from spring through fall. There
are also tents that are almost entirely no-see-um netting for
ultimate ventilation and which are perfect for camping in the summer,
particularly in the South and Southwest.
On
the other hand, if you intend to hike in every season, a good rain
fly will compensate in cold weather for the extra
ventilation needed in hot weather.
Three-season
tents have more mesh, lighter poles
and fabrics, and aren't as heavy-duty.
Three-season
also means less ca$h.
Four Season Tent
Tents
built for four-season use usually have very little ventilation and
sometimes feature a cook hole in the floor so that you can cook
inside your tent.
Four-season
tents theoretically keep you warm or cool, whichever the case may
be, year-round.
Four-season
tents usually have stronger poles,
heavier fabrics, less mesh, and remain sturdy in the wind and snow.
They
also have a little more room for gear and cooking.
Basically,
the more weather and snow you camp out in, the stronger your tent
needs to be.
Snow
= a four-season tent.
No
snow or little snow = a three-season tent.
Most tents are made of strong but
lightweight nylon taffeta or rip stop nylon, which weighs
approximately 2 ounces per square yard.
Some of the bigger tents use
coated polyester or cotton poplin canvas, which weighs a good deal more.
The floors and flys are usually coated with polyurethane or another moisture-repellent substance to prevent moisture from passing from the ground into the tent. Although the body of a tent is often left untreated to increase the transfer of respiration and perspiration through the tent's walls, it is not unusual to wake up in a damp tent. Moisture can gather beneath sleeping pads or air mattresses (but not cots since they are raised above the floor). Large and airy tents have less of a problem this way because of the greater circulation of air throughout the tent. Some tents offer a double-roof construction, which further decreases unwanted condensation. I have spent a number of sleepless nights in tents that dripped continually from the ceiling.
Polyester withstands extended exposure to the sun
Nylon is lighter weight
Canvas is durable but very heavy
Tent Poles
Quality
is important
Fiberglass
poles are durable
Aluminum
poles are lightweight
In the past few years, tent poles have evolved from unyielding aluminum to shock-corded poles of fiberglass or aluminum (except in the case of some of the larger, family tents, which still use rigid aluminum poles). These new poles are threaded in segments over elastic (shock) cord that allows the user merely to snap the poles into shape rather than piece them together.
SHOCKCORDED
POLES:
This means that a bungee cord runs through each pole assembly. This
keeps the pole together so you don't have to hunt for pieces. As the
poles sections slip together the cord holds them together so they can
be handled as a single pole.
|
Tip
Never
shake out your shock-corded poles to snap them together. |
When dismantling the tent, the segments are pulled apart and folded compactly.
There is still some controversy as to whether fiberglass is superior to aluminum when it comes to designing tent poles. Fiberglass is less expensive and more flexible than aluminum. It does not require pre-bending or any special attachments. It also provides a better packing size when folded. Its major drawbacks are that it is affected by weather and can break into splinters and must be replaced. Aluminum is more likely to bend and can be splinted when it breaks. Durability is one of aluminum's main advantages along with the fact that it is easily replaced.
Aluminum:
Aluminum poles are the standard for high-end tents.
Good
quality aluminum poles are strong, light and can run well over $200
for a replacement set.
Don't
loose them.
Thick
poles come with mountaineering and 4 season tents.
Save
the weight and get thinner poles if you will not be camping in heavy
winds and snow.
They are light, flexible and can withstand the cold.
The quality of aluminum poles vary, but most poles are aircraft grade aluminum which are lighter and less bulky while providing increased strength.
Diameters range from 6 mm to 15 mm. The larger diameter is heavier, stronger and less flexible, thus more stable under high winds. Most backpacking tents use 8.5 mm to 9.5 mm. As a general rule if your tent has only one pole intersection, your poles should be 9.5 mm.
If your tent is higher than 5 feet tall, you need a pole diameter of at least 10.5 mm.
Some companies color code their aluminum poles to make the tent easier to set up.
Fiberglass:
Avoid
fiberglass poles unless car camping.
These
poles are heavy and fragile although inexpensive.
Fiberglass poles are heavier than aluminum poles and are not as durable.
When temperatures fall below freezing, fiberglass poles start to crack.
Fiberglass poles are usually used to cut costs.
Fiberglass comes in varying qualities, the cheap versions tend to splinter rather easily.
Fiberglass poles also have metal sleeves at their ends, these tend to get caught in pole sleeves and make setting up the tent rather frustrating.
End Tips:
To make set up easier some manufacturers have devised interesting ways to attach pole ends to the tent's corners. Here are a few of them:
Ball tips - one end of the pole has a sphere that you simply slide into the continuous sleeve until it rests in a pocket at the other end of the tent.
Hollow end - the end of the pole is hollow so that a pin at the tent's corner can be inserted. This seems easy but the pin sometimes slips out when you try to flex the pole.
Point tips - a pointed end tip is inserted into a grommet at the tent's corner. The pointed end always seems to slip out of the grommet by the time you are ready to insert the other end of the pole.
Locking tips - This works the same way as the pointed tip but without the problem of it slipping out of the grommet.
Military
Tent Poles, Original Military Surplus Tent poles connect to
create sturdy support for your tent or tarp, 15" tall each and
all can be connected or used separately
Adjustable
Pole
3/4"
DiameterAdjusts from 4' to 8'
Friction
lock secures height and tension
Galvanized
steel construction
Use
ski bags to hold your dining tarp, poles, pegs and ropes together.
They
are relatively inexpensive at the end of ski season.
Workmanship
Although
any tent may be adequate for your needs,
you
may want to consider how long you would like your tent to last.
Good
workmanship means you can have a long-lasting relationship with your tent.
A
well-made tent should have lap-felled seams around the floor seam.
Lap-felled
seams (like
the seams on the sides of your Levis)
provide extra strength, because they are actually four layers of
interlocking fabric joined by a double row of stitching.
On uncoated nylon tents, check for taped seams. Because nylon tends to unravel, taping or hiding the end of the fabric behind the seam with another piece of fabric will stop or stall this process.
Finally,
make sure that all stress points are reinforced either with extra
stitching or bar tacking.
Tug
at the material to make sure the load is equally distributed across
the reinforcement.
Unequal distribution can cause premature wear on
your tent.
Today's tents are mostly water
resistant, although, even if the manufacturer calls it unnecessary,
it's a good idea to seam-seal your tent.
Ideally this should be done
prior to the camping trip.
The tents usually come
with instructions, and the best course of action would be to follow
the manufactures recommendation.
Set up your tent in a protected area, and put the fly on inside out. Run seam sealer (included with some new tents, or available at outdoor stores) along every seam on the fly and the floor. It's better to apply two thin coats than one thick coat. Allow to dry for several hours before putting the tent away.
Water can still invade
most tents through WICKING. This is where something touching
the side of the tent will, through capillary action, draw the water
through the tent wall onto the item touching it. This could be
a backpack, clothes, sleeping bag, or any other item capable of
holding moisture.
This can be an especially bad
surprise on the morning of a heavy dew.
Campers
agree that waterproofing is an important feature to consider.
There
is nothing more miserable than sleeping in a wet tent.
The
better the material, the more water-resistant, then the more likely
you are to sleep dry. But there are some days that it rains so hard
that no matter how good your tent, you're going to get wet (if for no
other reason that you bring the rain in yourself going in and out of
the tent). It may rain for days on end while you cower inside your
tent waiting for the deluge to subside. During this time, your tent
does not even have time to dry out, but as long as your sleeping bag
is fairly dry, you can sleep warmly, if not entirely comfortably, in
your damp tent.
There
are occasions like these that have taught some campers to keep a
spare tarp on hand. The tarp can then be erected over your tent to
provide an extra roof and a little extra protection from the rain.
Just
remember to give the tarp a little slant so that water doesn't pool
up in the middle of it.
To keep your tent as dry as possible, it is important to seal its seams, especially those around the floor of the tent. Most leaks occur at the seams because that is where the needles that sewed the pieces together left holes.
Although
parts of the tent are coated, the needle holes in the seams will
allow water to enter your tent; therefore manufacturers often include
an applicator bottle of sealant designed to close these tiny
holes. Buy some sealer
(available at most outdoors stores)
and follow the directions.
Then
seal them again.
Spread
the fly (and the tent if it is not seam-taped) out on the ground;
run a thin coating of sealant along the seams. Allow the sealant to
dry according to the instructions on the bottle, and then apply a
second coat.
Sealing
seams every season helps ensure that your tent will perform the way
it's supposed to.
Depending
on how much you use the tent, the sealer can last up to two years.
If
you use your tent a lot or have subjected it to a lot of rain or
snow, seal the seams more often.
You can buy seam sealer at any outdoor store and most discount stores. It is very cheap with easy to follow directions.
Rain flies have to be seam-sealed every few seasons.
The
sun too will eventually cause a tent to deteriorate.
If
possible, camp in the shade to avoid harmful UV rays. You might
consider simply leaving your rain
fly
on during the day. They are easier to replace after a few seasons of
abuse than the entire tent.
Tent floors can wear out, so use a ground tarp when possible.
|
Tip When camping in the cold or snow, try to position your tent so that the early morning sun warms you and evaporates the dew or frost on your tent. |
Set-up
You will also want to consider how easily a tent can be set up and taken down
- important when it comes to pitching a tent in the dark or wind or rain.
A
golden rule is to
always
set your tent up in the yard before your first camping trip
This rule serves many purposes.
First because you want to make sure that all of the parts are
enclosed in the package. Think of how awful it would be to be at your
campsite and find that a pole was missing.
Also you want to have practice at pitching the tent so that you will
have an idea as to what you have to do once you are at camp.
You
don't want to waste a lot of your precious camping time trying to
set up a tent that you aren't familiar with.
You may also want to practice setting up in the dark!
While you have your tent set up in your yard there are a few things that I highly recommending doing.
The
first is waterproofing.
Most
tents are considered waterproof but it never hurts to give it an
extra boost.
You
also want to check the stakes
for your tent.
If
the tent comes with the skinny metal stakes, forget them.
Buy
yourself some of the larger
plastic stakes.
They
will make the tent much more securely attached to the ground. They
are very cheap and I would recommend buying and taking extra. You
will be amazed at the uses you can find for tent stakes.
Also
remember to never ever ever use the loops on the tent to pull the
stakes out of the ground. They are not meant for this and doing this
could cause them not to hold at the most inconvenient of times - like
when it is windy and rainy and you most want to be inside of the tent.
If
you have a hammer with a claw that will fit to pull them out, use that.
If
not, then stake
pullers are relatively inexpensive and available wherever
you buy the extra stakes.
There are several different methods of tent set up-clip systems, sleeve systems and grommet systems. In the clip system, the ends of the poles are held by grommets and the tent clipped to the poles; in the sleeve system, the poles are pushed through sleeves in the tent and the ends are held by grommets; and the simple grommet system, in which the poles, usually rigid aluminum poles, are held by grommets or loops with little or no bending of the poles. Some tents employ combinations of the two systems, the clip and sleeve combination being the most common.
Color
While color is a matter of personal preference, there are reasons why you may choose one color over another. Bright, neon-like colors are good only in search-and-rescue situations because the blinding material will stand out against the snow or the green and brown of the woods or the sand in the desert. Since most camping involves designated sites, this situation rarely arises. It is more common among mountain climbers or others who find themselves in this situation having traveled in remote areas. For the very reason bright colors are effective in emergency situations as described above, these colors can be annoying to other campers, causing a visual disturbance in what is supposed to be a natural, outdoors experience.
The fabric color affects the quality of light inside your tent. If your tent is pale green or blue, the bright sunlight filtered through your tent will form a soft light inside. On rainy or overcast days, the light inside your tent could be slightly depressing. These colors are also a bit more inconspicuous in the backcountry. In contrast, orange and yellow fabrics are great in foul weather because they produce a brighter light inside your tent but few manufacturers use these colors anymore just because they are so bright.
As
a matter of fact, there is a definite trend toward using more
inconspicuous and environmentally pleasing colors such as grey, light
grey, white and tan. These please the eye both inside and outside the
tent. Blue and gold combinations are also used in many tents as are
lodengreen or spruce, charcoal, burgundy, teal and aqua.
Blue-grey
and green are by far the most common tent colors.
Consider
a quality ground cloth for under your tent to protect the floor and
to keep it drier and cleaner.
This
should be the same shape as your tent and slightly smaller.
The Fly
The
'fly' or 'roof fly' or 'rain fly'
is
the separate sheet of waterproofed fabric that covers the main tent body
(in
most modern double-wall tent designs).
The
rain fly of your tent is undoubtedly the most integral part of your
tent when the rain begins to fall.
It
is essentially your last line of defense from the cold, wet rain.
The fly may just cover a central part of the roof, or it may extend all the way to the ground. It may incorporate an integral vestibule or annex by the tent door(s), or even a porch-style awning on some family models.
In any case, it is likely to be somewhat heavier than the rest of the tent, as the fly takes the most abuse over time from UV light, winds, rains, birds, trees
It's
a good idea to purchase 1 or 2 extra flies when you first get the
new tent
(or
soon after),
for
likely replacement needs down the road.
(Very
happy when a model is discontinued and parts become scarce.)
Flies need to be re-treated/sealed for waterproofness every so often, and like the rest of the tent should be stored clean and dry.
In use you won't always need it of