..:::::::::.. ..:::aad8888888baa:::.. .::::d:?88888888888?::8b::::. .:::d8888:?88888888??a888888b:::. .:::d8888888a8888888aa8888888888b:::. ::::dP::::::::88888888888::::::::Yb:::: ::::dP:::::::::Y888888888P:::::::::Yb:::: ::::d8:::::::::::Y8888888P:::::::::::8b:::: .::::88::::::::::::Y88888P::::::::::::88::::. :::::Y8baaaaaaaaaa88P:T:Y88aaaaaaaaaad8P::::: :::::::Y88888888888P::|::Y88888888888P::::::: ::::::::::::::::888:::|:::888:::::::::::::::: `:::::::::::::::8888888888888b::::::::::::::' :::::::::::::::88888888888888:::::::::::::: :::::::::::::d88888888888888::::::::::::: ::::::::::::88::88::88:::88:::::::::::: `::::::::::88::88::88:::88::::::::::' `::::::::88::88::P::::88::::::::' `::::::88::88:::::::88::::::' ``:::::::::::::::::::'' ``:::::::::'' The AoC Handbook Agents Of Chaos - 4/98 agentsofchaos@geocities.com agentsofchaos@juno.com http://www.disembodied.com/agentsofchaos (Realize this handbook was free. This isn't 2600. I believe in FREEDOM of information. To hell with charging innocent technophiles to learn.) ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ GUIDED TOUR, By Jim Nye So we'll talk this trail a little I'll point out the sights, these vistas, overlooks and such Here's where Marty took one in the throat, now there's a wound fucking blood Marty wide-eyed, gasping breathing out that fine red mist And over here a ways Allen - dumb shit - picked up a wire to see what it was goddamn booby trap is what it was pieces of Allen all over Right down here, near this stream but I do go on, don't I- ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ This handbook is for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY! We do not expect you to use any of the dangerous and illegal techniques mentioned in this document, and should you decide to take some action that you get into trouble for, IT'LL BE YOUR OWN DAMN FAULT, SHITHEAD! ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ I. Introduction II. "Cookbooks" III. Hand Weaponry IV. Weaponless Fighting V. Firearms VI. Explosives VII. MaDCoW's Knife Guide IIX. The "Hot Wire" IX. Fake Identification X. Stories XI. The Possible Future Of Greenboxing XII. Clothing XIIV. Conduct XIV. Food XV. Anarchism Today XVI. BBS' XVII. Trashing XIIX. Declaration of Digital Independence *. Credits & Greetings ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ I. Introduction Well, the world needs more "cookbooks", right? Well, no. Unless they actually contain some useful information. So that's what we're going to try here. Let us know if you want something added, etc. We won't always do anything about it, but we're open to your opinions. We hereby pay tribute to the authors of those cookbooks that have done well to educate us all. Who better to write a "handbook", though? We, the Agents Of Chaos, are only symbolic of the greater movement across the world. We are a small family, set up to link hackers, anarchists, phreaks, programmers, artists, etc. We are but a small portion of the immortal group of people who allow their lives to be run by their curiosity. We are the ones who seek ideas and knowledge because we want to know. We do not want to abuse knowledge, and we do not want to harm. We are the ones who reject the notions enforced by our society because we can see past the petty differences that exist in our world. We, the children of curiousity, who exist in every time and place, are those who educate others. Today's true teachers are the ones that learn what they are teaching, and can sympathize. Today's teachers are not only in the classroom, but anyone who wants to learn and then inform. And so, we are the teachers of today. If you are a "hacker" or would like to be one, remember this: You're dealing with knowledge. Never abuse the knowledge, but respect it, and hold it dear. It is the only thing they cannot take from you. Anarchy ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ II. Cookbooks I get sick enough when I hear people use the word "elite", or it's even worse shortened form "leet". I don't need to deal with the morons who think that the copy of "The Jolly Roger's Cookbook" they're uploading to my BBS is really the "Anarchist Cookbook". The Jolly Roger's Cookbook is a huge zip of individual files, named sequentially, i.e. 001.DOC, 002.DOC... These files are given descriptions in an index file, named "INDEX.DOC" or something similar. The Anarchist Cookbook is a REAL-WORLD BOOK, MADE WITH PAPER AND BINDING! It is in no way a text file. If you have a text file form of it, that you are sure is the Anarchist Cookbook, (written by WILLIAM POWELL), email it to me. There are some text "cookbooks" - the Jolly Roger's, the Terrorist Handbook, etc. But none of these are the Anarchist Cookbook. Please help fight the stupidity! Anarchy, founder of the Agents Of Chaos Agentsofchaos@geocities.com ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ III. Hand Weaponry The blunt weapons: Sap Gloves - These are gloves with lead shot sewn into the knuckles. They make for great and usually comfortable protection. It's hard to have them recognized as weapons until it's too late for the victim. Club - A club can be anything, from a broomstick to a table leg. They're well known as weapons, but only with practice can one learn to wield them well. Luckily, armed with practice, you should be able to find one anywhere. Hand Filler - These include rolls of quarters, brass knuckles, etc. These are things that give greater impact to your hand attacks, and though they have to be held in your fist (and thus, can fall out) they make visually subtle, but physically effective weapons. The slashing weapons: Slashing weaponry includes swords and axes. Swords come in all shapes and sizes - longswords, shortswords, two-handed swords, scimitars, khopesh, etc. They're certainly hard to conceal in today's society. Don't let "Highlander" fool you. It'd be like trying to conceal a baseball bat. However, they're still extremely effective (against non-firearms). Axes make a more easily excusable weapon (chopping wood, hunting tool, etc.) still fairly effective, and also throwable. The piercing weapons: These are a select few weapons. These include darts, spears, throwing knives, needles (including those shot from blowguns). These weapons are fairly effective only on certain parts of the body, or when used in conjunction with poison. A very effective weapon used for assassination is the common hatpin. Though not very common anymore, these three to four inch needles were inserted into the ear of the victim, piercing the brain, and killing them instantly. The Garrote: This weapon, used for either strangling or beheading, is considered ultra-lethal. This is the weapon used to kill "Luca Brasi" in "The Godfather". It incorporates all the traits that make a good weapon - speed, silence, simplicity, and deadliness. The one exhibited in the "Anarchist Cookbook" is described here. It is a simple design, constructed from two pieces of wood (equal size) attached with piano wire. Upon approach, the hands are raised, crossed as the wire is brought forward, down, and over the head of the enemy. Thus at the back of the head the wires are crossed over and the left hand pulls to the left, and the right hand to the right. This is an extremely deadly weapon. Because this version uses piano wire and an effective method of strangulation, beheading is extremely likely. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ IV. Weaponless Fighting This chapter was influenced heavily by the Anarchist Cookbook. Get a copy of it if you don't already have one. And as for this chapter, the commandment is "Thou shalt not commit murder", so killing in self defense is not a sin. Get used to defending yourself, since there are people out there that would force you to try. Vulnerable Body Fighting Points - Adam's Apple: The Adam's apple is usually pretty hard to get at, because anyone who values his life has learned to keep his chin down, but if you find you do have an opening, strike a hard blow with the knife edge of your hand. This can either be a forearm, or backarm blow. The chances are, if you connect with a hard blow, your enemy will die, with a severed windpipe, but if the blow was only partially effective you may still find your enemy in severe pain or gagging. Another method of attack on a man's Adam's apple is squeezing it between your forefinger and thumb. Armpit: A large network of nerves exist very close to the skin in the armpits. The great problem with a direct strike there is its lack of accessability. So you would more likely attach this area after having brought your enemy down, and are in control of his arm. An attack should be led by a toe or heel kick. A sharp blow to this area will cause severe pain and temporary paralysis. Chin: The chin isn't that vulnerable. An effective blow can be delivered with the heel of the hand, but stay away from swinging with a closed fist. More fingers are broken and wrists sprained by people swinging with a closed fist. Collar bone: A sharp blow delivered with either your elbow or the knife edge of your hand can break the collar bone and bring an enemy to his knees. Ears: Coming up behind the enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion over the victim's ears can kill him also immediately. The vibrations caused from the clapping motion will burst the victim's eardrums, and cause internal bleeding in the brain. Elbow: The joint in the elbow is one of the weakest points in the human body, and can be dislocated or broken with a relatively forceful blow. Grasp your enemy's wrist or forearm and pull it behind him. This will cause the arm to stiffen. Strike a sharp blow to the stiffened elbow while doing this, with the heel of your hand. Eyes: Temporary or permanent blindness can be induced by several means, first by forming a "V" shape with your index and middle fingers and driving them into your opponent's eyes, keeping a stiff wrist and fingers. Done with force, this can be permanent. The thumb or the middle knuckle can be used in gouging the eyes. Fingers: More than half the blows your opponent makes are likely to use the fingers, in one way or another. One of the most effective is by using the hand as a lever: Grasp the wrist and pry it down, while at the same time bend, with the right hand, the middle and index fingersback. This will cause breakage and can be used to break many grips. Floating ribs: The floating ribs are sensitive parts of the body and can either be attacked from the front or the back. It is best to attack and deliver a blow to the enemy's right side, since this is where his liver is located. A stunning blow can be effectively delivered by using the knife edge of the hand or, if you have gotten your opponent on the ground, you can kill him with a kick from your heel, elbow, knee, or toe. Groin: This is the one spot that anyone who has ever been in a fight is conscious of, and tries to defend. If it is left open, attack viciously with your knee in an upward motion. A person can also use his fist or heel, especially if he has managed to floor his opponent. Instep: The bones in the instep are very small and weak, and can be broken easily. A stomp, using the edge of your right boot to your enemy's right instep, is effective and protects your groin area. The instep is an area to remember, as it is almost never defended or protected, and can render an enemy immobile and in severe pain. This attack area is also useful for breaking an opponent's grip on you. Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off of the spinal cord comes very close to the skin at the kidneys, and a direct blow to the kidneys can cause death. To attack this area, you should either use the knife edge of your hand or a fist that is folded at the second knuckle. If you have knocked your opponent to the ground, you may use the toe or heel. Knee: Kick your enemy's kneecap by delivering a blow with the edge of your boot (not with your toe, as it is liable to slip off, and leave your enemy unharmed). The blow should come on an upward swing there to catch the underneath of the kneecap and rip the cartilage and ligaments. This will cause severe pain and affect mobility. If you manage to get behind your enemy, a blow to the knee can just as easily be delivered. Nape of the neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered with the knife edge of the hand to the base of the neck, can easily kill a man by breaking his neck, but to be safe it is better to use another weapon, such as the butt of a gun, or a hammer. If you can knock your opponent to the ground, apply a kick to the back of his neck with either a knee drop, or the heel of your boot. Generally speaking, the side or the heel of the boot is a better weapon than the toe, as it tends to slide off the object it is attacking. Nose: The nose is an extremely vulnerable point of attack. It can be struck with the knife edge of the hand, across the bridge. This will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death, as the nose bone with force can be driven up into the brain. Another method of attacking the nose is to deliver an upward blow with the heel of your hand. This will have the same effect as the blow on the bridge. Shoulder: If you manage to get hold of an enemy's arm, it takes very little strength to twist it, thus causing dislocation. This move should be performed quickly. Solar Plexus: The solar plexus is a large network of nerves located at the bottom of the rib cage. A blow should be struck slightly upward with the protruding knuckle of the middle finger. A sharp blow can cause severe pain and unconsciousness. Spine: The spinal column houses the spinal nerves, and a well directed blow to this region can easily kill or paralyze an enemy. The only really effective means for delivery of a blow of this sort is after you succeed in knocking your enemy to the ground. The blow can be made by either the knee, elbow, heel, or toe. It should be directed about two inches above the belt line, as this is where the spine is least protected. Stomach: There are many combinations of blows which can form a basic attack pattern, but one of the most basic us a blow to the stomach. Excepting the solar plexus, the stomach is not an area which can be treated as an end in itself, but rather a starting point for a series of blows. The best way to strike is to go at it with a fist formed by holding the fingers at the second knuckle, and striking deeply with a slightly upward swing. A blow to the stomach will cause the enemy to bend deeply forward. When this occurs, either strike your opponent with full force with your knee in his face, or employ a well directed rabbit punch to the base of the neck. Temple: An enemy can easily be killed by a sharp blow to the temple, as there are a large nerve and an artery close to the skin. A heavy blow delivered with the knife edge of the hand will kill instantly. A moderate blow to the temple, with the toe or heel of your boot. If you succeed in knocking your enemy down, kick him hard in the temple, with the toe or heel of your boot. It will insure that he will never get up again. Upper lip: The point where the nose cartilage joins the upper section of the jaw is where a large network of nerves is located. This network of nerves is extremely close to the skin, and a sharp upward blow, with the knife edge of your hand, will cause extreme pain and unconsciousness. Wrist: A wristlock is useful for several reasons. Most importantly, An enemy can be controlled in this position. A wristlock is nothing more than placing both thumbs on the back of an opponent's hand and bending it at a right angle to the forearm. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ V. Firearms "If a person is not going to protect himself, and wishes the government to do it for him, how can he complain when the government decides to protect itself against him, and execute him?" - Anarchist Cookbook Everyone should know SOMETHING about firearms. Everyone has some idea of what a "gun" is, and most can tell a pistol from a rifle. But our right to bear arms (like so many others) has been so twisted that we have hardly any contact with firearms anymore, and thus we've lost our knowledge about them. 1. Treat your weapon as your most prized possession. It can save your life, or take it. Be aware. 2. Clean it regularly for proper function. 3. Never point the gun at ANYONE unless you plan to kill them. 4. Do not allow ANYONE but yourself to shoot your weapon, and never allow anyone you do not fully trust to even handle your weapon. 5. Understand your weapon to the point that it is a functioning extension of your self. 6. Take pride in your abilities in shooting, but NEVER boast, gloat, or mouth off about them. 7. Any situation in need of firearms has no need for cowboys or hotshots. Don't be an asshole. 8. In most situations, shoot to kill, but be aware that there are circumstances when wounding a man can be more trouble for your enemy than killing him. Pistols/Revolvers - First off, if you get one, get the most common one you can find. Assuming you buy it, get at least a .38 calibur (width of the barrel) one, and with a good bullet capacity (8 - 13 for Pistols, 6 for revolvers). See the catalog from Smith & Wesson to decide which to buy, rather than going to a store and listening to a possible moron. Go to this web page for browsing/shopping: www.amfire.com Rifles - Great for close-range use and self-defense, over a long distance, rifles tend to become useless. As one who is interested in defending himself should always have a pistol, they too should have a rifle in their house, and know how to use it. Shotguns - Useful for sabotage and ambush, these are good mainly for two reasons. The first is the ability to be a devastatingly powerful short range weapon when sawed off. The second is the ability to convert it into other weapons, like a grenade launcher. (A chapter on grenade launcher conversion is given in the REAL Anarchist Cookbook, by William Powell). Silencers - Basically, these muffle the sound made by a firearm during firing. All silencers work similarly, containing and then distributing the compressed gas which follows the bullet. For low-calibur weapons (.22, .25, .32, etc.) the noise made is from compressed air only, but in faster weapons (faster than 1100 feet per second) the sound is partially created by a sonic boom. The way to silence small calibur weapons is to use absorbant material to break up the gas, and in high calibur weapons you can drill holes in the barrell to slow down the bullet (could ruin the gun altogether), hand-load the cartridges slowly, or force the bullet to pass through a semi-solid material (Use EXTRA CARE). ALL forms of silencers are illegal, so don't do this without knowing the consequences. Crossbows - Crossbows are a dangerous weapon, even amoungst all of our supertechnology. Use "hunting" bolt (the projectile) tips, as there are a variety out there. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ VI. Knives: In Life and for Learning Combat; an Objective Review for Laymen, Experts and Youths (KILLCORLEY) By Madcow of the Agents of Chaos Contents: Intro Knife General Info Types of Knives Buying Knives Knife Fighting Defending Against Knives ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ INTRO Knives are one of the simplest tools available, but they remain one of the most effective and useful weapons for everyday people. Knives are fucking intimidating in a fight - there's no denying it. Of course, so is a gun; but nowadays, it can be very problematic to carry a gun around everyday. Knives are quieter, easier to conceal, and much easier (and cheaper) to buy. All of which makes a knife a great tool for just about anyone. Although all of us have experience using knives in the kitchen or as tools, many people are unaware of the details of knife fighting and of fighting knives (which were designed specifically as weapons). Being clueless about knives has lead to a lot of unnecessary deaths, since it's much easier to live through a knife attack than you think. Also, lots of inexperienced people get their teeth kicked in when they try to use a knife without the proper basic technique (which is very easy to learn- more later). Even a beginning martial artist can disarm you if you hold your knife incorrectly. Fortunately, all this basic stuff is easily mastered, as you'll see. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ KNIFE GENERAL INFO Fighting knives come in great variety. If you want a knife for self-defense, you will want to avoid kitchen knives. These knives are often not as sturdy as good fighting knives, and are hard to conceal. There's also the fact that you will look unprofessional and lame if you whip out a kitchen knife rather than a real fighting knife. Don't walk around with Mom's meat cleaver in your bookbag, unless you have *absolutely* no other options. Knives have many different features. There are a variety of tip shapes. Knives can be single-edged or double-edged. Single-edged ones have one cutting edge, and a dull back edge. Double-edged ones can cut with both sides. For beginners, single edged knives are the best choice- it's much safer. The majority of knives are single-edged. Edges should be kept sharp, but don't try to sharpen a knife if you're not sure how- you could ruin the blade. Keep your knife sharp by using it only when necessary- ask a more experienced person to show you how to sharpen a blade, if possible. Single-piece (fixed) knives are made of a single piece of metal, with a blade and a handle right below it. Single-piece knives like hunting/fishing or combat knives are the sturdiest and most solid, and require a sheath for storage. Folding knives like switchblades and jackknives have a blade that fold into the handle, for greater convenience. Folding knives are flimsier, compared to single piece knives. A special kind of knife, the tactical folder, bridges the gap between these two types. Serrated edges are designed to inflict more damage by sawing through things. The jagged, saw-like edge can be pretty scary looking to an opponent, and makes the knife more useful as a cutting tool. Try to own at least one knife with a serrated edge. Blood gutters (also called troughs) are grooves or long holes that run along the length of the blade. If you stab flesh with a plain flat blade, then the cut will be flat. Your opponent will bleed, but the wound will press close and the bleeding will stop easily, since the cut is straight and flat. But if your knife has a blood gutter, blood will rush out along that groove or hole in the blade, causing your opponent to bleed more and his wound to close more slowly. Just a note- if you stab someone, then twist the blade around, you will rip the flesh more, and make the wound much harder to close (blood will gush from the wound). Remember "Face/Off"? ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ TYPES OF KNIVES There are many varieties of knives, because there are many situations where a specific kind of knife is needed, and because people have different tastes when it comes to knives. A trip out in the wilderness, for example, would require a sturdy hunting/fishing knife, among others. A Swiss Army knife is indispensable to the active phreak, but is a poor choice for self-defense. Learn as much as you can about knives, and make your own choice. Daggers- Daggers are what most consider the "typical knife". They are mostly double-edged, single-piece blades, carried around in sheaths. Most daggers have some sort of hilt or hand-guard, and are often designed as smaller versions of swords. These are the weapons made popular in medieval times, and may have complex carvings or decorations. Daggers are, for the most part, too flashy and impractical for today's times. Bowies- The Bowie knife is the single-edged, single piece, 15 inch hunting knife made popular by Jim Bowie (the famous Texan who died at the Alamo). Bowie (pronounced "boo-ee") knives are *mean* looking motherfuckers. They have curved edges, and are widest in the middle. The back curves up and then down to form a nasty tip. The handle is also curved slightly for a better heft. Bowies often come with pistol-like "trigger guards", a loop of metal you can use your index finger to spin the knife with. Bowies are very wide knives, and can do massive damage to your opponent. Many smaller knives nowadays copy the Bowie shape and design. Bowies are very popular among knife enthusiasts nowadays, and are readily available. Combat knives - These are the typical "Rambo" knives, heavy and long. Most are around 15 inches long and have serrated backsides and a slightly Bowie shape to the blade. Pull one of these from its sheath, and an unarmed opponent will shit his pants. Some combat knives have compasses built into the pommel (the bottom of the handle) or may have hidden compartments in the handle for storing maps and etc. Members of the now defunct Soviet special forces outfit Speztnaz used to carry spring-loaded ballistic combat knives. They were powerful enough to launch (that is, shoot) the 10-inch blade through a 2x4 board. Although very useful, most large combat knives are too big to be carried around comfortably concealed. Bayonets - No doubt a favorite of military enthusiasts, the bayonet is one of many accessories that can be attached to a typical assault rifle. Bayonets are typically narrow, long and double-edged; most are single-piece knives. Non-integral bayonets can be removed and used by themselves. The bayonet's length and narrow shape make it an excellent jabbing weapon or "pigsticker". Unfortunately, its length makes it more difficult to hide, especially in a street environment. Hunting/fishing knives - These knives are designed for outdoors use, as well as for the gutting, slaughtering and filleting of fish and animals. They may be of varying lengths, widths and usefulness for self-defense. They are readily available at sports stores, and are often of poor quality or are overpriced. I can't recommend these knives for pure self-defense, but well-made ones can be excellent tools. Trench knives - Named so because soldiers used them in lieu of shovels for digging, these long, wide rectangular knives resemble kung-fu butterfly swords. They have a knuckle guard that protects the fingers holding the handle. This guard is often serrated or spiked, allowing the knives to double as brass-knuckle type weapons. Trench knives often feature mean looking blood gutters, and are incredibly effective weapons. Trench knives are difficult to locate, however, and suffer the difficulties of large size. As you can see, single-piece knives make effective weapons, but suffer the disadvantages of being difficult to conceal or being cumbersome. The size and design of single-piece knives also makes it slower to draw them in a fight. Their usefulness in a fight is unarguable, but trying to keep them hidden takes much effort. Jackknives- Jackknives are the "typical" example of folding knives. They come in a great variety, but they all fold open by swinging the blade sideways out of a slot in the handle. Swiss Army knives are in this category. Often single-edged, jackknives are useful as "pocket knives", but are often not sturdy enough to use in a fight. Even if you lubricate or file them so that the blade opens very quickly, jackknives are easily broken or accidentally closed. Although useful for cutting purposes and for being concealable, jackknives make poor weapons. Switchblades- Switchblades are spring-loaded folding knives. By pressing a switch, the blade quickly slides straight out, or swings out sideways of the handle. This kind of knife is a choice weapon of gang members and criminals, for it's ease of use, speed and its intimidating "click". Switchblades are ready to use quickly; no need to draw it out, just push the switch. Switchblades can be concealed easily, but suffer the same disadvantages of jackknives: it can easily be broken or close accidentally. Balisong- These are commonly called butterfly knives, for the way their handles split open like wings to reveal the blade slotted in-between. The handle is made of two metal or wooden bars that swing open like a pair of bolt cutters, 180 degrees, rejoining in the new position and exposing the blade. Most are about eight inches long, and about 3 or 4 inches of that is blade. The blade can be of various shapes and styles. A butterfly knife expert can easily spin and flip the knife open and shut repeatedly, which is damn impressive to see (unless the guy is threatening you). Using a butterfly knife gracefully takes as much work as learning to master nunchaku- it isn't easy. Otherwise, the butterfly knife is an excellent weapon. It is much sturdier than switchblades and jackknives, which makes it both reliable and easy to conceal. But the fact that it is difficult to wield makes it less desirable, as well as the fact that it's handle isn't as solid or comfortable as many other knives. It may be too complex and unreliable for beginners, but it is still a good weapon. But nowadays, butterfly knives are more scarce, since it is illegal in many states and as people flock to buy the most popular knife type... Tactical Folders- Of relatively recent popularity, tactical folders came from the desire to merge the convenience and concealability of folding knives with the strength and sturdiness of single-piece knives. Take one single-piece knife, one folding knife, get 'em real drunk and then let them have sex... Out pops the tactical folder. Tactical folders resemble folded jackknives, but with handles made of high impact plastic or anti-ballistic material. There is a small knob near the dull backside of the blade that sticks out. Using your thumb, you flick the blade open, like a jackknife, but much quicker (and single-handed). Once open, the blade locks into position and it will not close unless you hold down on a bar-and-spring mechanism (called a locking liner) and then fold the blade closed. The blade will not close unless the person who holds it *decides* to close it. When open, the knife is as sturdy as any good single-piece knife. Tactical folders are the ideal knives. They are sturdy and strong, while being easy to conceal and safe. They can be quickly snapped opened, without any practice or training. Plus, they are plentiful, easy to find and reasonably priced (a good tactical folder will cost about 15- 25 dollars). You can't go wrong by buying a good tactical folder. Because of their popularity, you'll find tactical folders in all shapes and designs- Bowies, serrated edges, and very exotic designs. They go from tiny pocketknives to basic 8 inch knives to machete sized knives. Tactical folders also make excellent tools, and often come with belt clips and key chain holes for even greater convenience. Tactical folders are in huge demand by law enforcement and the military. If it's good enough for them... A tactical folder is _the_ most useful knife one can buy. A predecessor to the tactical folder is the Spyderco (TM) style flip knife (popularized by that company). It features a small round hole in the blade instead of a knob, for the thumb to flip the blade out. Spyderco knives are quality products, but are mostly too expensive for the average beginner. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ BUYING KNIVES Now that you know about some of the various knife types, you may be itching to get your hands on a blade of your own. Having a knife offers a great measure of security and is incredibly valuable in avoiding fights. There are plenty of instances where a crazed nut or guy looking to pick a fight is scared off by pulling a dangerous looking knife on them. If you've made the decision to get a knife, then be sensible and be aware of the fact that cops will be glad to confiscate your valuable tool and/or toss you in jail. Just use common sense to keep your knife yours. There are many sources of knives, legal and illegal. Illegal sources depend on your connections, so I'll concentrate on legal and semi-legal sources. Knives may be obtained through older relatives who may be collectors, and willing to share their hobby with you. This will depend on your personal situation, so do some investigating. Martial arts, gun & ammo and sports equipment stores will carry knives, many times of high quality (meaning expensive). They may also carry very cheap and poorly made knives. Depending on whether the store is a small business or a big corporate franchise, they may give you a hard time about age and identification. If you can, try to get a willing grown-up to help you scam the salesperson, or wait when the store is empty to make a deal. Dress respectably. Owners of such stores are probably knife enthusiasts themselves, and will be glad to sell to a responsible-looking kid (especially when business is slow). Mail order places that advertise through catalogues or the web are great sources of knife information, but lousy sources of actual knives. The paper trail is the main problem. Having things mailed to your house by a knife company can be quite problematic for most young people living with parents. This is the same case with mail order infomercial shows like "Cutting Edge Knife". Giving out your address and personal info just may not be worth getting that knife. Probably the single best source of anonymous knife purchasing would be science fiction conventions. Let me explain... Exotic blades and accessories are very popular among science fiction/ fantasy fans, so any sci-fi convention with a dealers' room will contain a few knife sellers. The people who attend sci-fi conventions are for the most part, pretty harmless and fairly well off (in terms of money). As a result, blade sellers find they can do a good amount of safe business at a sci-fi convention. Along with exotic/antique swords and knives, you'll also find hunting/fishing knives, combat knives and tactical folders, of course. Because the dealer's room is often a semi-chaotic, bazaar-like atmosphere, you can haggle with the merchants, examine their wares and have your choice of many different sellers. Keep searching the room until you find a knife that you like, at a good price. Most dealers are nice people, and will let you handle the knife (so long as you don't act like an idiot). Shop around, and pay in cash. Most dealers will not care about identification, especially if you buy close to closing time, when everyone is tired and wants to sell out their stock (less for them to carry home). In New York, the annual I-CON convention at SUNY Stony Brook is a great source of all types of blade weapons. As for how much one should pay for a knife, you need to consider many things. But for a beginner, a very good knife can be purchased for $15 to $25. You will see knives advertised for many hundreds of dollars, but these are generally for grown-up collectors with experience. A very dependable tactical folder can be bought for about $20. More exotic knives will cost more, so I suggest that beginners look for a single-edged knife, with an approximately 8 inch total length (longer if a switchblade or combat knife) and a serrated edge, if possible. Avoid fancy decorations for now, and look for a well-made knife. Look to see that the blade and handle are well made and sturdy. If it is a folding knife, check the quality of the pivot by opening the knife. A sharp edge will feel scratchy and thin when you brush your thumb against it sideways. If it feels smooth and rounded, it's dull. If it is a tactical folder, check the sturdiness of the open blade. It should feel like the blade is stiffly and firmly locked into the handle. Check the handle to see if the plastic is hard and sturdy. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ KNIFE FIGHTING Basic knife fighting is very easy. Learning how to attack with a knife will also give you the knowledge of how to defend against a knife. For the most part, you are depending on your knife to scare your opponent into backing off, which is why the look of your weapon is important. If you need to use your knife in a fight, you should practice drawing it out and opening it, with left and right hands- you never know which hand you'll have free in a fight, so practice with both. Practice getting your knife out with your eyes closed, too. Always be aware of where your knife is. Wrapping it in paper and stashing it at the bottom of your school bag will keep it safe, but just try to get it out as some guy bashes your brains in. Plan ahead. For a basic fighting stance, you should stand with your side towards your opponent, your knife pointed at them. This minimizes the area you have exposed to attack. Hold your knife at belly level, with your fingers around the handle and your thumb pressed firmly against the length of the handle (sort of looks like a thumbs-up sign). Have the palm side of your hand facing up. In this position, your knife can slip in between the ribs or sever the throat and major arteries more easily. In attacking, rapidly jab your knife at your enemy in a straight, quick motion. Don't make wild slashing attacks, since you will leave yourself open to attack. A quick opponent can avoid a wild slash and walk right into your face to knock you out. Use fast, fencing-like stabs instead, and always point your knife at your enemy, not up in the air. Keep your free hand close to your chest, ready to block an attack. Be prepared for your enemy to try to catch your knife hand. If this happens, keep a tight grip on your blade and try to attack with your free hand or legs. The basic areas you should attack are the throat, abdomen (from the bottom of the rib cage to the hips) and the crotch. Be careful, as your enemy will use their arms to block these attacks. Make your thrusts quick, so you avoid getting your blade stuck in your enemy's arms or trapped by their clothing. If your opponent also has a knife, you may want to consider backing off. Martial arts training helps here, especially in giving you a good fighting stance. You'll want to attack with your knife as you use your other hand to defend against your opponent's knife. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ FIGHTING AGAINST KNIVES If you find yourself totally unarmed against a knife-wielding enemy, you will find your knife fighting skills can help you predict how they will attack. Try to get a wall behind your back if you can't run. Don't attack an armed enemy; let him come to you. If you have a book bag, hold it in both hands, and try to slam it into the enemy's hand sideways as they stab at you. If you have a jacket or such, take it off and hold it stretched out with both hands or wrapped on one hand. You will want to net the enemy's knife hand as they stab at you, and try to wrestle it away from them. If you find yourself fighting against a knife, be aware that you WILL be cut. Though, if you defend properly, you can reduce the damage to superficial flesh wounds. Try not to worry about being cut or sliced on the arms, just do everything you can to keep the knife away from your torso, neck and crotch. If you have a chance to grab your enemy's knife hand, grab at the fleshy part of the palm (the heel of the hand), and not the wrist. A good opponent can easily break a wrist-hold, and then plunge their knife into your hand or arm. You deny them leverage by grabbing the bottom of the hand and not the wrist or arm. Well, I hope you learned something about defending yourself from my text. I'm lucky enough to have a parent who encourages and shares my respect and interest in knives and knife fighting, so I hope some of my information has helped someone. Some final notes: if you also have a parent or relative who was or is in the military, try showing some interest in their knowledge about knives or other weapons. Not only will you get some family bonding done; you'll receive valuable information about blades and weapons. Believe me, it's a great way to learn about something as valuable as knives. I apologize for not covering some more advanced topics like: knife materials, tip styles, exotic knives like push knives and thumb knives, Japanese knives and more advanced knife fighting. I recommend Abbie Hoffman's _Steal This Book_, the Agents of Chaos Handbook and William Powell's Anarchist's Cookbook for more basic information and general fun. For more advanced people, Mua Press' _Knife and Sword Techniques_ (rough translation), Jeff Imada's _The Balisong Manual_ and Dan Inasanto's _The Filipino Martial Arts_ are all useful references. Don't take your right to defend yourself lightly. Learn as much as you can about self-defense. I guarantee you will not regret it. "It seems like all around me, people are enjoying knives." -a knifeless Bart Simpson Madcow ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ VII. Explosives An explosive is a solid, liquid, or gas, that when subjected to extreme shock or heat, violently and rapidly converts into a gaseous form. In doing so, it releases heat and pressure equally in all directions. Explosives are classified as low, high, or primary, according to the "detonating velocity" or speed at which this change takes place, as well as their role in the reaction. RULES FOR HANDLING EXPLOSIVES * Never handle explosives in a careless manner. * Never smoke or allow an open flame in the presence of explosives. * Never store metallic tools with explosives (It's spark hazard). * Always try to use up older stocks of explosives first. * Never permit cases of explosives to rest on the floor. Place them on boards or pallets to allow the air to circulate about them and keep them cool. This will also help protect them from water damage should the storage facility leak. * Always remove the cases of explosives from the storage facility to a safe area before opening. * Never assemble explosive primers within the storage facility. * Never store safety fuse near oils or solvents. Keep it sealed and dry. * Never store blasting caps with other explosives unless the tactical situation clearly demands it. * Never carry loose blasting caps in the pockets. * Never leave explosives or blasting caps exposed to the direct rays of the sun. * Never use electric blasting caps during the approach or progress of an electrical storm or when blasting radio towers or power pylons. * Never remove the short-circuiting shunt from an electric cap until you are immediately ready to use it. * Never divide responsibility for bomb construction - you start it, you finish it. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ LOW EXPLOSIVES Low explosives change from a solid to a gaseous state slowly over a sustained period of time (up to 1,300 feet per second). They are generally the easiest to compound in the field. The effect that occurs is called "deflagration," which is essentially a very rapid burning rather than the detonation which occurs in high explosives. Low explosives are initiated by a spark or flame. Because of the nature of their explosion, they must be heavily confined, as is a pipe bomb, to acheive optimum power. Unconfined, they produce a flash, a flame, and not much else (usually). One interesting exception is the low explosive made from half potassium chlorate and half sugar. When confined and ignited by a flame, it reacts as a low explosive, but when confined and initiated by a blasting cap, it detonates as a high explosive, albeit not an excessively powerful one. Other examples of low explosives are black powder, flash powder, and smokeless gunpowder. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ HIGH EXPLOSIVES High explosives change to a gaseous state almost instantaneously, at a rate of about 3,000 to 28,000 feet per second, and produce a shattering effect on the target. They must be initiated by a blasting cap or detonator. The effect that occurs in high explosives is called "detonation," which is essentially a high-velocity shock wave travelling from the point of initiation through the entire mass of the explosive. When a detonator that is too weak is used, or if the explosive mass is loose or degraded, a phenomenon known as "low order" detonation occurs, which is characterized by a comparatively quiet report, a lot of black smoke, and little target damage. When a detonation of sufficient power is used, a "high order" detonation occurs, which is loud, less smoky, and does tremendous damage to the target. High explosives are most useful when high power is needed in a comparatively small package or when there's a "hard" target to defeat (i.e., most cases). Examples of high explosives are TNT and dynamite. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ PRIMARY EXPLOSIVES Primary explosives are highly sensitive compounds used in detonators and small arms primers. They are easily detonated by heat, spark, impact, and friction. Because of this sensitivity, they are only used in small amounts, usually less than a gram, in detonators. The volume is not much more than that of a pencil eraser. This small amount of explosive is used to initiate a larger charge of less- sensitive explosive, the "base" or booster charge, in a blasting cap. This base charge, in turn, has sufficient energy output to detonate the main explosive charge or, in some cases, the secondary booster, if an extremely insensitive explosive is used. As you can see, the primary explosive is the "match" that lights a progression of increasingly less-sensitive explosives. This progression is known as the "explosive train." Examples of primary explosives are HMTD, lead azids, and mercury fulminate. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ EFFECTS OF EXPLOSIONS Blast - Blast waves are the high-velocity pressure waves that radiate outward from an explosion. Their pressure drops off in the open as the distance from the point of initiation increases. When this pressure wave encounters a solid object, such as a wall, it may be reflected. Depending upon the magnitude of the original wave, this reflected pressure wave may be two to nine times more destructive because its energy is more focused. Blast effects are enhanced by confinement due to the reflecting of blast waves by the confining surfaces. A blast wave traveling through a tunnel, corridor, trench, or even a street decreases in intensity much more slowly than in the open. If a bomb detonates within a building, there is considerable reflection of the blast wave from the walls, even if the wave from various walls, in such a case, results in a multiple punch effect on another wall. The overall effect of confinement is an increase in the the radius of demolitions of the explosive charge. Incendiary - High explosives generate very high temperatures, often up to 3,000- 4,000 degrees Celsius. Though the heat is intense, it is of such brief duration that they rarely start fires unless a lightly combustible substance is present. The large fireball seen in the movies and on TV is the result of the special effects crew lacing the charge with gasoline. Fragmentation - A bare explosive charge has little in its form to produce fragments, but it may pick up items from its surroundings and project them at high speed. Fragmentation is frequently thought of primarily as an antipersonnel effect, but it can also be very damaging to vehicles and equipment. The "frags" can be generated by the use of a heavy metal casing on the explosive charge, or it can be a "surround," which is covering the outside of the charge with performed fragments, such as ball bearings. Their size will depend on the nature of the target. Vehicles and equipment need heavy frags for good penetration, 3/8 inch being a good choice. The heavier the frag, the better its range and penetration. Small frags, such as BBs, are excellent for personnel. The South African armsmaker ARMSCOR has developed a bomb consisting of a high explosive charge encased in a fiberglass jacket. Cast within this jacket is a large number of spherical fragments of varying sizes. With such a variety of sizes, the bomb is better able to deal with different targets. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ TYPES OF EXPLOSIVES - Low 1. Black Powder (BP) - Black powder is the oldest explosive and propellant known. It is a composite made from potassium or sodium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur. It is used today as the core of time fuses, in some igniters, in fireworks, and in sport shooting as a propellant for muzzleloading firearms. While BP is comparitively easy to formulate in the field, the resulting product is unlikely to exhibit the same level of power as the commercial article. The standard formula is 75-percent nitrate, 10-percent charcoal, and 15-percent sulfur. The chemicals are powdered separately, mixed thoroughly, dampened with alcohol, and rubbed through a screen to produce grains. The resulting material is then dried for use. BP is comparatively safe to store and handle, but it must be protected from sparks and moisture. Commercial black powder comes in various grain sizes, which are graded from the largest to smallest as Fg, FFg, FFFg, FFFFg, and FFFFFg. The smaller the grain, the faster burning the powder. Naturally, FFFFFg is the best choice. It is usually used in flintlock firearms as a priming powder. Pyrodex, a commercial BP substitute, is interchangable with black powder but leaves less fouling and grunge in the firearm. Some recipes for Black Powder mixtures: Name Percent 1. potassium perchlorate 69.2 sulfur 15.4 charcoal 15.4 2. potassium chlorate 75 charcoal 12.5 sulfur 12.5 3. potassium nitrate 70.4 sulfur 19.4 sodium sulfate 10.2 4. potassium nitrate 79 sulfur 3 straw charcoal 18 5. guanadine nitrate 49 potassium nitrate 40 charcoal 11 ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 2. Smokeless Powder (SP) - The term "smokeless powder" is somewhat of a misnomer, as it is neither totally smokeless or a powder. SP does produce much less smoke than BP and comes in the form of small granules of various sizes and shapes. It is used chiefly as a propellant in modern firearms. Smokeless powder comes in two basic forms - singlebase (SBSP), which is composed of nitrocellulose (guncotton) along with various stabilizers, and double-base (DBSP), which is of the same basic composition but includes a percentage of nitroglycerin to increase its power. Neither is particularly sensitive to moisture, but both must be dried before use if they become wet. They are also not as sensitive to spark and friction as black powder. SBSP is mostly used in rifle cartridges, while DBSP is primarily for pistols and shotguns. DBSP is the best choice as a bomb filler, as it burns faster and generates higher pressure than SBSP. Due to its nitroglycerin content, it is possible to detonate DBSP using a strong detonator. To do so, it needs to be heavily confined, such as in a very sturdy pipe bomb. SBSP can be modified easily to increase its rate of burning and to make it detonable. It is generally understood that the faster the burning rate, the more powerful the blast. Making SP - 1. Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide. 2. Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry. 3. Mix slowly and carefully at 25øC, 250 cc. of concentrated sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of water. The must be kept at 25øC. 4. Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with either a glass or porcelain rod (NO METAL). This should be done for 35 minutes. 5. After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important, since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive more unstable. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 3. Improvised Low Explosives - The most easily produced explosives are the low explosives. They are usually composed of a simple but intimate mixture of an oxidizer and a fuel. There are literally thousands of formulas floating around for low explosives, but I have included only a few of the better ones due to space restrictions. They are simple and powerful mixtures but must be handled with care, as all of them are sensitive to sparks and friction. nitrogen tri-iodide - Probably the most hazardous explosive compound of all is nitrogen tri-iodide. It's also one of the most popular with amateurs, too, because of the ready availability of the ingredients. It is so sensative to friction, however, that a fly landing on it has been known to detonate it. It is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! Making it - 1. Add a small amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This operation must be performed very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed. 2. Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with alcohol and secondly with ether. Tri-iodide must remain wet, since when it dries, it becomes supersensative to friction, and a slight touch can set it off. This is an extremely unstable compound and experimentation with it is HIGHLY DANGEROUS. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ - High Explosives 1. Nitroglycerin (NG) - Nitroglycerin has the distinction of being the first real high explosive. It is a thick oil, clear to pale brown, that detonates at a rate of about 24,000 feet per second. It is quite shock sensitive but is reasonably safe if handled intelligently. NG has the capacity to sense when a stupid or clumsy person is around and, if given a chance, it will try to kill him. Its sensitivity increases with the temperature, and when it gets above about 50 degrees celsius it can become quite dangerous. Pure NG freezes at 56 degrees Fahrenheit and is very insensitive when in that state. NG in the process of thawing, however, can be very sensitive. Contact with nitroglycerin or its fumes can produce the most amazing headaches, which may be relieved by aspirin and strong coffee. The primary use of NG today is in commercial dynamites and double-based smokeless gunpowder. NG can be produced at home with a minimum of equipment. Nitroglycerin Recipe - 1. Fill a 75-millileter beaker, to the 13-ml. level, with fuming red nitric acid, of 98 percent concentration. 2. Place beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature. 3. After it is cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming sulfuric acid (99 percent H2SO4). In other words, add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 milliliters of fuming sulfuric acid. When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering. 4. When the two are mixed, lower their temperature, by adding more ice to the bath, to about 10 or 15 degrees Centigrade. This can be measured using a mercury-operated Centigrade thermometer. 5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temp, it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in small amounts using a medicine dropper. Glycerin is added, slowly and carefully, until the entire surface of the acid is covered with it. 6. This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be kept below 30ø C. If the solution should go above 30ø, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and poured direclty into the ice bath, as this will prevent an explosion. 7. For about the first ten minutes of the nitration, the mixture should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction, the nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid solution while the sulfuric acid will absorb the excess water. 8. After the nitration has taken place and the nitroglycerin has formed at the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred very slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done, the nitroglycerin will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid solution can be drained away. 9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution. The sodium bicarbonate is an alkali and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it normally is. 10. The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. This is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful is to place a single drop of the nitroglycerin on a metal plate and ignite it. If the drop burns with a bright blue flame, it is true nitrogycerin. Caution: Nitroglycerin is extremely sensitive to decomposition, heating, dropping, or jarring, and may explode even if left undisturbed and cool. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 2. Commercial Dynamite - The most common high-explosive is commercial dynamite. Most dynamites, with the exception of military dynamite and Du Pont's "Tovex" series, contain nitroglycerin along with varying combinations of absorbants, oxidizers, antacids, and freezing-point depressants. Dynamites vary greatly in strength and sensitivity depending upon, among other factors, the percentage of nitroglycerin they contain. Dynamite is sensitive to shock and friction. The main types of dynamite in commercial use are straight, ammonia, gelatin, and ammonia-gelatin. Straight dynamite consists of nitroglycerin and a nonexplosive filler. The percentage on the package corresponds to the relative amount of nitroglycerin contained in each stick. Ammonia dynamite is composed of ammonium nitrate and nitroglycerin. The percentage composition is computed the same way as for straight dynamite. Gelatin dynamite is a plastic dynamite with an explosive base of nitrocellulose dissolved in nitroglycerin. It is relatively insoluble in water. Ammonia- gelatin dynamite is a plastic dynamite with an explosive base of nitrocellulose dissolved in nitroglycerin with ammonium nitrate added. Commercial dynamites an be detonated when primed with detonating cord or a No. 6 or larger blasting cap. Over a long period of storage, the nitroglycerin trends to settle to the bottom of the sticks. To prevent this from happening, dynamite cases should be turned over at frequent or regular intervals. Old dynamite or dynamite that has been stored improperly can be recognized by the oily substance collected on the casing or stains appearing on the packaging. The physical condition of the stick is also an indicator. The stick should be firm and resilient, like modeling clay. If it is soft or mushy feeling, it has gone bad. Dynamite in this state can be extremely sensitive and should not be used unless absolutely necessary. Due to uncertain supply lines in unconventional warfare, it might be necessary in some situations, but EXTREME CAUTION must be used. Wetting the sticks liberally with acetone is highly flammable itself. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ MILITARY EXPLOSIVES 1. Composition C4 - This is an extremely powerful plastic explosive used by the U.S. military. It is white in color and resembles nougat candy. Composed of RDX and various plasticizers, it is very stable and has a detonating velocity of 26,300 fps. C4 comes packaged in 2 1/2-pound or most commonly, 1 1/4 pound bars. C4's main advantage is not its plasticity so much as its power. It is 34 percent more powerful than an equal weight of TNT. When cold it is somewhat stiff and difficult to work with. This may be remedied by warming it in a warm room or, if the user is in a hurry, by placing it in a sealed plastic bag in warm water. In its softened condition it is easier to load into containers. C4 should NOT be heated over a fire! If it catches fire, it burns with high heat. If you try to put it out, it may very well detonate. C4 requires a special military blasting cap to ensure detonation, but two No. 8 commercial caps will work if necessary. 2. TNT - TNT is one of the most common military explosives in the world. In some areas it is used as a commercial explosive. It is a yellow crystalline solid with detonating velocity of 22,000 fps. TNT is generally found in pressed blocks of various size. As TNT has such a low melting point (80 degrees Celsius), it may be melt-loaded into ordnance by carefully heating it in a double- boiler, but this should be done with extreme caution. Liquid TNT is as sensitive to shock as nitroglycerin, so it must be handled with care until it has solidified. It may be powdered by placing it in a heavy canvas bag and pounding it with a wooden mallet. When powdering TNT, a dust mask and gloves should be worn, as TNT dust is highly toxic and may cause dermatitis in some individuals. Crystalline TNT, which is more sensitive to initiation than pressed or cast, may be made by dissolving TNT in as little acetone as possible, then pouring the solution into a large amount of water. The TNT will precipitate out and may then be filtered and dried. TNT in this form has a lower detonation rate than either pressed or cast. It may be used as a booster for the other two forms if weak blasting caps are all that are available. A No. 6 cap will initiate crystalline TNT, while pressed TNT requires a No. 8, and cast requires a special engineer's cap or a booster. Making TNT - 1. Take two beakers. In the first, prepare a solution of 76% sulfuric acid, 23% nitric acid, and 1% water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57% nitric acid and 43% sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight ratio, not volume). 2. Ten grams of the first solution are to be poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4. Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50øC. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is allowed to rise to 55øC. This temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. 6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45øC. When reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid solution will be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 81øC. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained for half an hour. 8. At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60øC, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottom. 9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80øC. All temperature increases must be accomplished slowly and gently. 10. Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80øC to 104øC and is held for three hours. 11. After this three-hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100øC and is held there for a half hour. 12. After this half hour, the oil is removed from the acid and washed with boiling water. 13. After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14. When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT. Note: The temperatures used in this recipe are exact, and must be used as such. Do not estimate or use approximations. Buy a good Centigrade thermometer. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 3. Picric Acid - One of the earliest military high explosives, picric acid has fallen into disuse in recent years. This is due mainly to its tendency to form sensitive compounds called "picrates" when in long contact with most metals. It is, however, fairly easy to make using common materials. It is slightly more powerful than TNT and has a detonating velocity of 23,300 fps. It too is a yellow crystalline solid. Yes, Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10% distilled water form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, since instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon formation. Making Picric Acid - 1. Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a steady temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the quantities of phenol used. 2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more importantly the temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees C. 3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus paper tests show that there is little or no acid present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should be allowed to partially dry. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 4. PETN - Pentaerythrite tetranitrate is a sensitive and powerful high explosive. It is used alone as the core of detonating core or as the base charge in blasting caps. PETN is also used in composites with other explosives such as TNT (Penolite, used in commercial and military boosters and burster charges) or with plasticizers in the flexible explosive charge known variously as Flex-X, Datasheet, or M-118. Making PETN - PETN can be made by treating pentaerythritol with nitric acid and adding concentrated sulfuric acid to complete the separation of the PETN. In the United States, it is manufactured with nitric acid alone: C(CH2OH)4 + 4NHO3 ÄÄ> C(CH2NO3)4 + 4H2O 1. Add approximately 5 pounds of pentaerythritol to 23 pounds of 96 percent nitric acid in a nitrator, continuously stirring and cooling the acid. The initial temperature of the acid should be 18øC when you begin to add the pentaerythritol, and you should add it at a rate that raises the temperature to and then maintains it at 22 to 23øC. Continue stirring and cooling for 20 minutes after adding all the pentaerythritol. 2. Stir the acid solution into about 60 pounds of cold water in a drowning tank. 3. Catch the precipitated PETN on a glass-cloth filter, wash it with water, mix with 90 gallons of cold water containing 2.5 ounces of sodium carbonate, and refilter to separate from the slurry. 4. Wash again with water and dissolve the PETN in 30 pounds of 98-percent acetone heated to 50øC and containing one ounce of ammonium bicarbonate. 5. Add cold water to the acetone solution to precipitate the PETN. Trap the precipitated solid on a filter and wash with water to remove the acetone. The water-wet material is the final product, as it generally is not dried before being used. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 5. RDX - RDX is one of the most powerful explosives in military use. It is comparable in power to PETN and nitroglycerin, though it is slightly less sensitive than the former and considerably less sensitive than the latter. It is used alone as a base charge in blasting caps or - when desensitized or mixed with other explosives, such as TNT - as a booster or demolition explosive. It is the main component in the excellent C4 plastic explosive and most other maincharge high explosives in current use. Making RDX - RDX can be made by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine, which results from the reaction of formaldehyde and ammonia. 1. Slowly add one part by weight of hexamethylenetetramine to 11 parts of 100 percent nitric acid, while maintaining the temperature of the nitric acid at or below 30øC and stirring vigorously. The reaction proceeds according to the following equation: C6H12N4 + 3HNO3 ÄÄ> 3HCHO + NH3 + (CH2NNO2)3 When this mixture is allowed to stand, the nitric acid oxidizes with the formaldehyde (HCHO), which is liberated by the reaction. 2. After letting it cool to 0øC, stir the mixture for 20 minutes more and then drown in ice water. The resulting rupture and degradation of the hexamethylenetetramine molecule form numerous aliphatic and cyclic nitrocompounds (impurities) that make up crude RDX. 3. Catch this crude RDX on a filter and wash it with water to remove most of the acid. It is important to remove all but a trace of acid. 4. Purify by grinding the wet material then treating with boiling water. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 6. Tetrytol - Tetrytol is a mixture of the high explosive tetryl and TNT. It is very powerful, about 24-percent more powerful than straight TNT. It is little seen nowadays but may still be in use with the U.S. Navy, where it was/is used as a demolition charge. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 7. Ammonium Nitrate (AN) - Ammonium nitrate is one of the least sensitive explosives and must be initiated by a powerful booster charge to be detonated successfully. Because of its low sensitivity, AN is used widely in composite explosives where it is combined with a more sensitive and generally more powerful explosive. AN should always be packed in airtight containers, as it will easily absorb water from the air, if exposed. When wet, it is next to impossible to detonate. 8. Semtex - Semtex's explosive power comes from a 50-50 mixture of PETN and RDX. PETN has a relative effectiveness of 1.66; RDX has a relative effectiveness of 1.5. Semtex contains 89 percent explosive and 11 percent inert plasticizing material. Essentially, Semtex and C4 have the same power. Semtex is preferable to C4 only because it is easier to obtain (namely, create). Making Semtex - Three ingredients are used to make improvided Semtex: powdered RDX, powdered PETN, and a plasticizer. A common plasticizer is petroleum jelly, used in this recipe. 1. Pulverize the RDX and PETN by using a rolling pin and cutting board. The finer the powder, the more effective the end product. 2. Pour equal parts by volume of the powdered RDX and PETN into a glass jar and shake gently until the powders are mixed well. 3. Pour the mixed powders into a wide bowl and thoroughly knead the petroleum jelly into the powder. The jelly contributes nothing to the explosive effect. Its purpose is to provide the plastic qualities and bind the powders. Use as little as possible to acheive the proper consistency. 4. Unless it is being pressed into a mold, wrap the improvised Semtex in plastic wrap and seal it with tape. Each wrapped charge should be no less than 100 grams and no more than one kilogram. 5. When ready to use, poke a hole through the plastic wrap with a nonmetallic object and insert a blasting cap. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ BLASTING CAPS Assuming you're able to get industrially produced caps, there are electric and non-electric. Electric blasting caps have three lengths of leads - short (4 to 10 ft.), medium (12 to 14 ft.), and long (50 to 100 ft.). The short-circuit tab (or shunt) prevents accidental firing. It must be removed before the cap is connected in the firing circuit. Military blasting caps are required to insure detonation of military explosives. Nonelectric blasting caps are available in two types, the No. 8 and the special M7, which resembles the No. 8 in appearance, except for the expanded open end. Improvised Electric Blasting Caps - (1) With file or other instrument make a hole in the glass end of a small lightbulb. (2) If a lightbulb jacket is not available, solder or securely fasten two wires to the bulb - one on the metal threads at the sides, and one to the metal connection at the bottom. (3) Fill the bulb and the empty portion of the blasting cap with black powder. Tape the blasting cap on top of the bulb. (4) Use this improvised cap in a detonation circuit. Using more than one will help to insure detonation. Mercury Fulminate - the prime ingredient in manufactured blasting caps. Method 1 1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix it with 35 ml. nitric acid. 2. Slowly and gently heat the mixture until it bubbles and turns green, indicating that the mercury is dissolved. 3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a small flask of ethyl alcohol. This will result in red fumes. 4. After a half hour or so, the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the process is nearing its final stage. 5. After a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution. 6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white crystals. These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should be washed many times and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undesirable acid. Method 2 1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution. When ratios are described, they are always done according to weight rather than volume. 2. After waiting eight to ten days, one will see that the mercuric oxide has reacted with the ammonia solution to produce the mercury fulminate crystals. 3. These crystals must be handled in the same way as the first way described, in that they must be washed several times and given several litmus paper tests. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ PIPE BOMBS (1) Grenade - The typical light'em and throw'em pipe bomb. (a) Drill a hole in the pipe cap or plug to admit a length of time fuze. (b) Crimp nonelectric blasting cap to length of time fuze. (c) Assemble pipe, caps or plugs, time fuze primer, and explosive charge. (2) Antidisturbance Bomb - A pipe bomb that looks like a dud, and will kill whoever disturbs it. (a) Drill a hole in the end cap to admit length of burnt time fuze to make the bomb look like a dud. (b) Attach the electric cap and mercury element on base. (c) Test the circuit with a galvonometer first, then connect the required batteries with friction tape. (d) Assemble bomb. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ CHEMICAL BOMBS Chemical bombs make use of the violent chemical reactiosn that occur between certain chemicals when mixed. Mixing a strong acid with certain industrial chemicals will bring about this reaction. Here's a list of chemicals that will react with two acids. Reaction Chemicals Chemical Name Sulfuric Acid Nitric Acid ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Acetic Acid XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Acetic Anhydride XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Acetone Cyanohydrin XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Acrolein XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Allyl Alcohol XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Allyl Chloride XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Aniline XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Aniline Acetate XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Aniline Hydrochloride XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Benzoyl Peroxide XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Carbon Disulfide XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Chlorosulfonic Acid XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cresol XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cumene XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cyanic Acid XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cyanide of Sodium XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cyclohexanol XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Cyclohexanone XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Diisobutylene XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Dimethyl Ketone XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Epichlorohydrin XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ethyl Alcohol XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ethylene Cyanohydrin XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ethylene Dyamine XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ethylene Glycol XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ethylene Imine XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hydrazine XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hydriodic Acid XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hydroflouric Acid XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Hydrogen Peroxide XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Isoprene XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Isopropyl Ether XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Manganese XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Mesityl Oxide XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Methyl Cyanide XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Nitrobenzine XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Perchloric Acid XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Phenyl Ethylene XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Phosphorous Trichloride XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Para-Phthalic Acid XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Phthalic Anhydride XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Beta-Propiolactone XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Propylene Oxide XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Pyridine XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Silver Permanganate XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Titanium XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- O-Toluidine XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Vinyl Acetate XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Vinyl Cyanide XXX XXX ---------------------------------------------------------------- Vinylidene Chloride XXX ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ SUBSTITUTIONS These are not perfectly accurate. Check that: a. the chemical substitution is what you need and b. that the substitution is ONLY what you need, not a mixture. Chemical Name Household Substitute ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ acetic acid vinegar aluminum oxide alumia aluminum potassium sulfate alum aluminum sulfate alum ammonium hydroxide ammonia carbon carbonate chalk calcium hypochloride bleaching powder calcium oxide lime calcium sulphate plaster of paris carbonic acid seltzer carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid ferric oxide iron rust glucose corn syrup graphite black lead (pencil lead) hydrochloric acid muriatic acid hydrogen peroxide peroxide lead acetate sugar of lead lead tetroxide red lead magnesium silicate talc magnesium sulfate epsom salts naphthalene mothballs phenol carbolic acid potassium bitartrate cream of tartar potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum potassium nitrate saltpeter silicon dioxide sand sodium bicarbonate baking soda sodium borate borax sodium carbonate washing soda sodium chloride salt sodium hydroxide lye sodium silicate water glass sodium sulfate Glauber's salt sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo sulfuric acid battery acid sucrose cane sugar zinc chloride tinner's fluid ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ IIX. The "Hot Wire" Essentially this weapon is an electrified grid in a urinal basin. This can take the form of a screen cover for the drain or a metal grill. If the urinal is porcelain completely the screen must be added by the user. The drain cover is connected to the electrical system of the wash room by means of an insulated cord that is hidden behind the plumbing. What happens when the victim uses the urinal should be obvious now. The subject's urine, which is a salty liquid and a perfect conductor of electricity, makes contact with the charged grid and the shock will kill him. This system can be selective by rigging the circuit with a switch that you can control. The wiring need not be elaborate and can be carried in your pocket and hooked up within a few minutes. Normal 110 volt current is sufficient because it is the amperage that kills. The only thing necessary to look out for is that the circuit is not grounded - except by the subject. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ IX. Fake Identification, by Dr. Nick - All you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask. "Guinness - It's whats for dinner." So you want to get drunk this weekend. Or buy some cigarettes. It is sometimes easier to buy marijuana and take advantage of the black market brought on by the war on drugs. But you can, follow on and learn how to kill your brain cells with alcohol. * Vote Libertarian * ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Table of Contents I. Disclaimer/Legality 1. Getting ID A. Making your own ID B. Buying ID 2. Using the Fake ID 3. Related Web Links 4. Bibliography 5. Useful Excerpts (stuff I stole from other people so you can read it) ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ I. Disclaimer Fake ID is both a state and federal crime. If caught you might not be charged with both, but who knows? Usually making a fake ID is illegal in many states. It is usually a crime to alter existing state-issued ID, or to create a new fake ID. These crimes include forgery and fraud. They are no fun to get charged with. This site has some more info on it, it is a good example and food for thought: http://www.colorado.edu/sacs/ralphie/a/Appendix_B,_Alc.html Using a fake ID to purchase alcohol or cigarettes is some sort of crime. These crimes all differ from state to state, so check your local laws. I do not advocate creating a fake or fraudulent id. This information is for informational and novelty use only. Do not break any laws. This is not intended for anyone evading prosecution, warrants, etc. I will not hinder prosecution. I do not know how to create a new identity. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 1. Getting ID You can make it yourself or buy it. Some texts you might read talk about birth certificates and death certificates and all that crap. There are some links included which will take you there. This phile will help you make your own ID. This ID is intended primarily to get you into bars and help you buy beer. Don't even bother trying to fool a cop or fed with it. A. Making it yourself: You will need a various combination of the following tools, but these are just guidelines. You should try experimenting with different combinations and seeing which one works best for your IDs! You can probably find all you need here at Staples or your local stationary store. 1. Computer (if you don't have one just forget it) 2. Color scanner for computer (or access to a friends) 3. Color Printer (hardcore = die-sub printers, for home hacking try Epson 400, 600, 800 series) 4. Software - Adobe Photoshop, Paint Shop Pro 5. Cutting Tool: Exacto Knife (preferred method) or really sharp short blade on Swiss Army Knife (used to cut out the printed ID from the rest of the paper) 6. Adhesive: Strong Glue Stick or Double sided scotch tape (experiment here) 7. Posterboard or Manila file folder or Metrocard (strengthens the card--experiment here) 8. Contact paper (optional use only to get the right "look" or "feel") 9. A pencil 10. Paper to print front of id on--high quality inkjet or photoglossy depending on id. Don't even bother with copy paper. 11. The ID you want to fake (whether it be New York, Connecticut, LILCO, or NYNEX) 12. Nail File (for smoothing ID's edges). Also you might want to try 3M ID cards. They come 2 to a sheet. Experiment. How to Make it: 1. You need an ID or a template. You need to know what the legitimate 21 year old version of the ID looks like. Its good if you have a legit ID on hand to compare yours with. Check the "The I.D. Checking Guide" (http://www.webbanker.com/pub2.html) as an invaluable reference tool. It is a great book worth the order. If you need to scan in your own picture or ID make sure it is very clean. Use a high resolution, 720 DPI is good. You must use at least 24 bit resolution. Making your own template is as easy as recognizing the important information on the ID and how to correctly present it. 2. Follow what the template says. Put the picture in the right place. Fill in the right blanks. 3. Find a good medium to print on and work with. Remember you are going to need a front and back for this ID. I have seen fake NY State IDs using recycled Learners Permits. The new fake front is glued on top of a learners permit so the back is the same. Sometimes though you don't have an old license around. If not then scan the back of the drivers license and print it out on posterboard. Use the posterboard as the back. Its not perfect but close. Again, you are encouraged to experiment and see if you can find something better.. This is part of the process and helps you stay on your game as an artist. 4. Print the front out. Use a high quality paper, photo glossy is not necessary and is sometimes too thick or glossy for the job. Depending on what ID you are imitating you may or may not need a laminating surface. 5. Use a glue stick or double stick tape to adhere the front of your ID to the back. 6. Trim the corners with the knife (if necessary). If necessary you might want to use a nail file to smooth the edges on the ID. B. Purchasing Fake ID If you live in a big city (ie: New York) walk down to the business districts (ie: Times Square, Eighth Avenue, W. 47th Street) and you can find some shops. I am not 100% sure as I have never done this myself but my friends have. Look and listen. In New York you can sometimes buy fake IDs in the back of luggage shops. Weird but true. It is often fairly fake looking, out of state, or some bad college ID, but see if it suits your needs. Most of the net is full of crappy novelty IDs, nothing to buy beer with. Info on the net will help you make your own. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 2. Using the ID So, you finally got an ID. One that says your 21 or 18 or however old you need to be to buy items (to exercise your property rights!). So, now that you've invested $20-$100 you're all set, right? Wrong! If you were, I wouldn't waste my time by writing this, or make you read it. This is free advice. Take it. Kant says the only right acts are those with good intentions. I try. Don't consume alcohol in public where doing so is prohibited by law (ie: on the street). This is because it is illegal and when some cop finds out you are not only drinking on his streets but not even twenty-one he will throw a fit. Save yourself the trouble. If your ID is successful or not depends on many things. Some are beyond your control, such as the club's policy on fake id. Some are within your control, such as how you present yourself and what you exude. Factors beyond your control: The setting - i.e.: the bar, restaurant, store. Hopefully you can choose a place where the ID will pass for real, easily. Possibly within your control: Your server/bouncer. When in a grocery store DO go towards the 19 year old cashier. The younger ones usually care less about this whole ID thing. DO take advantage of the Korean/Pakistani Immigrant grocer. In the midst of all of Guiliani's Law and Order crackdown my friend at NYU can still buy his Coronas quite easily. The immigrant clerk questions my friend "Id?" To which my friend replies (with a smile) "Yes ID." Your biggest friend is your great personality. Look happy and confident and you will walk away with the beer. DON'T PANIC! What you can do: Know your fake birthday, name, address, zip code all that info on the card and your Zodiac sign. Go to a place that has accepted your ID in the past! This is my best advice. When waiting on a line for admission to a club have the ID ready - be confident! When you are purchasing at a grocery store or take out place it is nice to have it ready to present to the cashier. Try to view it as a formality that you are accustomed to engaging in. You are used to getting carded...remember? In a restaurant chances are about 50/50 you will be carded when ordering from a waiter. If you are with your parents these odds decrease, with your friends these odds increase. However I have been denied in older company and served with my friends. Lucky Chengs has been particularly lenient... of course in that case you wouldn't even need ID. What can I say? I am only trying to help. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 3. Related Web links How To Spot Fake ID and not be fooled (Some asshole denying you beer and smokes!) - http://www.cs.usask.ca/undergrads/cwu122/macs.html The Fake ID Page (Templates!) http://www.users.cloud9.net/~insanity/fakeidpage.html The Official ID Checking Guide (Very good book! Order it today!) http://www.webbanker.com/pub2.html Fake Identification Information... http://members.aol.com/cycore/idinfo.htm A Page of Fake ID links http://members.aol.com/cycore/idlinks.htm Guide to US & Canadian Drivers License Security Techniques! (Invaluable!!) http://members.aol.com/cycore/license.htm ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 4. Bibliography (where the excerpts are from): How To Spot Fake ID and not be fooled. http://www.cs.usask.ca/undergrads/cwu122/macs.html Guide to US & Canadian Drivers License Security Techniques! http://members.aol.com/cycore/license.htm ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ 5. Useful Excerpts This following useful excerpt is from "Guide to US & Canadian Drivers License Security Techniques!" (http://members.aol.com/cycore/license.htm), I have omitted most of the list, keeping these states as perhaps usable example, the full list can be found at the website given above. The following is a state by state (and Canadian province) list of tricks that are used on drivers licenses to prevent forgery. UNITED STATES LICENSES Florida: This state issues photo-laminated ID with the state seal and camera number overlapping the photo. The license number follows the Soundex system and begins with the first letter of the last name and looks like this: J123-123-39-123 The two digit group is the birth year. An additional trick is that minors under 21 have a yellow background on their photos. The most difficult to overcome trick used with this license is state seals printed in ink visible only under ultraviolet light. New Jersey: This state issues both photo and printed card licenses. The cards are a snap to duplicate. The photo licenses are in plastic. The trick on both licenses is the number. The first letter is the first letter of the surname. Next, there are nine numbers representing the license number. Finally, The last five numbers stand for the month and year of birth, and the color of the eyes. New York: New York is one of the last states to go to photo-ID. The new license is a 3M photo card, with a reflective lamination on the face. This gives it a silky texture. The type is computer type, and the security check is the New York State seal printed on the surface. The license number is very long, with the first letter the same as that of the surname. The last two digits are always the birth year. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ The Following Excerpt is from "How To Spot Fake ID and not be fooled" (http://www.cs.usask.ca/undergrads/cwu122/macs.html): Over the past two years selling cigarettes, I have found there are a number of dead-giveaways minors continually do, but never catch on to. (Some of these cannot be avoided anyway!) Minors usually will have their ID ready in their hand as they walk in the door. If this happens, be suspicious. On a related note, minors will usually produce ID very quickly after you ask for it. Minors will usually produce an abundance of minor ID, such as a student card. This minor ID is usually something that doesn't have a picture or a birthday, just a name. Or they will produce one piece of ID hoping you will take it. Minors will usually be nervous. Trembling in their hands or stuttering is usual. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ X. Stories Because experienced and determined phreaks will have gained a lot of good stories, we decided to present a few for you. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ The Merry Pranksters of Microcomputing... by Allan Lundell and Geneen Marie Haugen Part 1 - WOZ, JOBS, AND THE CAP'N The year was 1971. Two silent figures were observing the entrances to SLAC, the complex that housed the Stanford Linear Accelerator. With one of the newest, shiniest atom smashers in the world, the SLAC facility at Stanford University was a physicist's dream - a center for investigation into the most basic elements of reality. But the two observers were not interested in the nature of reality. Racing to a side entrance, they snuck past the SLAC security patrols and entered the classified high-technology library. They knew their way around, having visited the SLAC facility several times before. It was always exciting to break in; there was no limit to the information they could absorb. This time, however, they were on a specific mission. Thumbing through a document on multifrequency telecommunications systems, Steve Wozniak whispered to his friend Steve Jobs. "This is it! This matches the frequencies in Esquire. With this information, we can build one!" The future creators of the Apple II computer pulled out their pens and notebooks, scribbling data almost faster than a high-speed line printer. This was no minor treasure. They had unearthed some of the secrets of the little blue box, topic of an infamous Esquire article on phone phreaks by Ron Rosenbaum - and the magical device needed to enter the phone system, the world's electronic nervous system. Days of intensive effort followed, until finally they held their first model, with wires and coils spilling out, up to the phone and punched out the secret touch-tone codes. After many tries and exasperating failures, the phone finally rang a long-distance number. Someone answered... Jobs yelled out to the person on the line: "Hello! We've got a blue box, and we are calling you from California! Where are you located?" A little confused, their first planetary contact yelled back: "I'm in Los Angeles!" The boys needed help. Now that they knew the Esquire story was the truth and not fiction, they were sure its hero, Cap'n Crunch, must be real too. The two Steves put out the word through the underground that they wanted to meet him. It was some meeting. The infamous Cap'n had named himself after Cap'n Crunch breakfast cereal when he discovered that its free bos'n whistle produced a fundamental tone for long-distance calls. He'd also gleaned phone intelligence information from Bell System publications and by making himself a nuisance at the Bell switching offices. Cap'n Crunch was charting the unknown seas of the phone system with the true Star Trek spirit of seeing what was there, going where no man had gone before and having fun doing it. Woz had imagined Crunch to be a superengineer, a consultant to the computer industry, an ultra genius driving a van equipped to do everything but fly - a hybrid version of James Bond, the Man from U.N.C.L.E. and the professor on Gilligan's Island. But at this first meeting at the Berkeley dorms ol'Woz did a double take. Standing before him was, well, a madman. With long, frizzy hair, the Crunch was wildeyed and almost toothless, like a pirate from the seven seas. All he needed was an eye patch and a wooden leg. Cap'n Crunch launched immediately into his discoveries. After a few hours had passed, Wozniak and Jobs knew how to access different countries, overseas information operators, satellites and transoceanic cables. It was a worthwhile evening indeed. Part 2 - THE BLUE MEANIES Woz and Jobs were handed an opportunity to test out their new-found knowledge late that night. On their way to Jobs' house in Silicon Valley, the car died out near a phone booth in the low-life town of Hayward. They tried to beep their way back to Berkeley with their trusty blue box, but Woz had trouble making the connection. He was getting very nervous trying to "explain" to the operator what he was doing, when a police car pulled up and slammed on the brakes, lights flashing. The officer sauntered over to the phone booth, and the two Steves knew they'd been tricked by the operator. The officer, trained in the ways of criminals caught in the act, shifted his attention to some nearby bushes - thinking the boys had thrown something in them. In this instant, Jobs passed the blue box to Woz, who quickly shoved it in his coat pocket. Brave move. But to no avail: the officer routinely searched both Steves and liberated them of their new tool. The officer randomly pushed buttons, and the blue box responded: bleep bleeep blup bloop! "What's this?" he demanded. Woz took a chance, stammering, "I-its a m-music synthesizer, officer." Another officer arrived and started trying to figure the thing out. He grilled them: "What's the orange button?" "That's for calibration," Jobs said. "It's designed to interface with a computer." The two boys were escorted into the back of the patrol cruiser. Feeling doomed, they were beginning to realize that being a pioneer and a prankster had its risks. Then the cop with the box turned around from the front seat and handed it to them, saying, "A good idea, but a guy named Moog beat you to it..." Part 3 - PHONE FUN There is probably no one in the computer industry who has not heard of Steve Wozniak and Steve Jobs. There are a lot of people in the industry who have heard of John Draper, alias Cap'n Crunch, and there are a lot of people who haven't. But probably everyone in Western society knows someone like them: The guy with the ham radio next door. The kid down the street who crashed his school's computer from home. The hacker in the office across the hall who's always tampering with everyone else's files. They all seem to be propelled by some inborn drive to do what few - if any - can do or have done. These are the brethren of the high-tech frontier, the would-be merry pranksters of computerdom. The brethren break new ground, thinking the unthinkable, charting the unknown. Wherever their minds go, we will all go - eventually. No one holds the future so much in their hands as the pioneers of today's supertechnology. Thank God, they've got a sense of humor. In the formative years of the brethren, before they'd settled on a field of specialization, when they were young and unconsciously adventurous, they were unaware of the strength of the cultural rules. For some of them, a prankstering spirit could mean disaster, but Woz and Jobs seemed to live an almost magical existance beyond law and trouble. After mastering the blue box, they organized blue-box parties at the Berkeley dorms. Once a week, with an audience of twenty or thirty people, they held demonstrations. They'd call operators in other countries and go around the world by switching from one operator in one country to an operator in another. Finally a phone would ring in the dorm room next door. Someone would pick it up and hear Woz's voice, coming from around the world. They'd call Dial-A-Joke in New York (Woz subsequently started his own dial-a-joke service), weather numbers in Australia, phone booths in Capetown, bars in Ireland, all amplified so the entire audience could hear. Before the night was through, everyone in the room would talk to some friend or relative in another country - all for free, all for fun. Woz was always thinking up fantastic feats for the Berkeley Blue Box Show. Everyone loved him, and he loved being the star. Before long he was calling himself Berkeley Blue and had an almost professional routine. When he was finished blowing away the audience, Blue's partner Jobs, code-named "Oct Tobor," would step in and offer shiny new blue boxes for sale - guaranteed at a low, low price of $80. Shades of things to come... Woz and Jobs didn't just hand-wire their boxes. Woz created them with state-of-the art technology and laid them out on personally designed printed circuit boards. This was a professional operation, a miniature high-technology company, complete with product, sales, service and support. Woz immersed himself in the tech, Jobs collected the money. Those boys sold over two hundred boxes and lives off the revenues for an entire school year. Part 4 - AZURE HAZARDS A charmed life, some might say. But then the blue-box luck ran out. One night Woz and Jobs stopped at a pizza parlor practically next door to Woz's elementary school in the Silicon Valley town of Sunnyvale. They were on their way to Berkeley to sell a blue box, but they needed some money right away and thought they might save themselves the trip by selling it in Sunnyvale. Almost everyone feels safe in a familiar haunt in their hometown, and Jobs and Woz were no exception. Chewing their pizza, they surveyed the customers at the other tables. The families were out of the question. So were the tables full of teenagers. But there were some really disreputable-looking characters at another table who looked as if they might be able to put the blue box to good use. Feeling confident, Wozniak and Jobs approached the table and had a low conversation about the merits of the box. Were they interested? They were interested all right. And they were hooked after they watched a demonstration. They didn't have the money right then, so they took Woz and Jobs out to their car under the pretext of giving them their business card. The only problem was that the business card was a gun. The blue box changed ownership pretty fast, and the shady characters drove off. They had the box - but they didn't know how to use it, and Woz and Jobs never told them. The secrets of Cap'n Crunch were safe. In 1974 Cap'n Crunch, a.k.a. John Draper, was busted from blue-boxing. For the second time. By federal, state and local authorities. Fraud by wire was the charge. He had already spent six months in a federal penitentiary in Pennsylvania. The second time, he was sent to Lompac - a federal pen in California. The likable yet unfortunate Cap'n. How could he have known when he learned how to make free long-distance calls from blind kids who whistled their frequencies into the phone that he'd do time? How could he have known that the innocent free whistle inside the boxes of Cap'n Crunch cereal would lead to this? How could he have known when he blue-boxed his way to Nixon's bedside to inform the President of the nation's toilet paper crisis that he might end up in the slammer? In Lompoc an informer for the Mafia broke his back when he refused to impart the secrets of the blue box. That was the end of Cap'n Crunch, but not the end of John Draper - a man described by Wozniak as being wanted by the FBI because he was "too intelligent". If Draper hadn't been made such a folk hero by the press, it may not have gone so bad for him. Then again, his final stay in jail led him to computer fame and fortune. It was while he was in a work program that he wrote Easy Writer, the first professional-style word processing program for the Apple. A couple of years later, IBM was looking around for software to bundle with its PC. By that time, there were better packages than Easy Writer, but someone at IBM had a sense of humor. IBM asked Draper and his new software company, "Cap'n Software," to design and program this now classic word processing package and its first entry into the personal computer market - an irony not lost on those familiar with his bouts with AT&T. After their brushes with the dark side of the force, John Draper, Stephen Wozniak and Steve Jobs got a whole lot smarter. They wised up to some of the mysterious workings of the power structures. They lost their innocence, but they gained something else. Wozniak and Jobs struck it rich early in the Silicon Rush. They made history with their Volkswagen-like Apple II. John Draper became wealthy enough to drive a Mercedez-Benz through the streets of Berkeley with his first release of Easy Writer for the Apple II. New fortunes are still being made regularly in Silicon Valley, if not as often as they once were. And empires that once were, already are no longer. A new crop of microcomputer genius-pranksters are making headlines. Their exploits have inspired movies and a television show. As technology's first wave of pranksters come of age, they are shifting their curiosity to things, that are, as Wozniak explains, "creative and useful." But they're still doing things that few - if any - have done. Wozniak sponsored live satellite linkups with the Soviet Union at his outdoor musical US Festivals. Draper is masterminding a vast artificial intelligence network. Some of the other early pioneers are funding private space programs. Some are pursuing medical applications such as life-extension. Others are entering the arena of politics. In the realm of genius-pranksters and supertechnology, just about anything is still possible. Putting the most powerful tools into the hands of individuals with creativity, integrity and courage is bound to have awesome consequences. When the real whiz kids get together to conspire, they create not simply pranks, but miracles... ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ A typical redboxing story... This is the story of the little ImpulseTick and his phreaking ordeal. One day I was walking through the best city on earth, New York (it's all about the East Side baby.) You know those times when you really have to make a call and you have no money? Well this was before I built my first box. A friend and I went to Path Mark and were looking to steal some food. We stumbled upon the greeting card section. In this section we collectively pilfered about three voice greeting cards. At first we had the intent on giving them to his 98 yr old Grand Ma. We actually used two of the cards and I kept the third. When I went came back to Boston (raise the roof) I remembered I had forgotten my empty wallet in New York. I needed to call my friend and tell him to send it Fed-Ex. I turned on my computer and generated a bunch of tones. I finally got the quarter to work and I recorded it on my little greeting card. If you ever have the notion to phreak (and redboxing still works in your area) I suggest you use one of these cards. The little mic is small and they are easier to use. Now I go to the payphone and box to New York Information. I requested my friends number then it asked me to deposit money. I activated my makeshift phreak box and thats when it happened. I got an operator in the heaviest Bronx accent there ever was who said, "ya money don work here kid." I tried again for about an hour and then went home with no success. At home I sewed the mic inside my sleeve and got the notion to go out again. I went down to the train station and to the same phone. That's when the little white van pulls up (seriously). A guy dressed in a blue postal like outfit gets out and walks over to me. He looks at me for a minute, Opens my hands tells me to empty my pockets and then drives away. Now I'm a big black kid and I was going to claim discrimination when I realized that I WAS redboxing and that I was lucky. I learned more over the years. That's the closest I've ever come. The moral of this story. Never Redbox to New York (It's all about the east side). ~ImpulseTick~ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XI. The possible future of the Green Box, by DVampy and Impulse Tick For those of you who have been into the phreaking business long, you might have used the Green box - a wonderful little device that makes the three following tones (usually): The Ring Back(RB) tone, the Coin Collect(CC) tone, and the Coin Return(CR) tone. I'm going to focus on that last one, the CR tone. On old phones, you could play the CR tone and get (surprise) some pocket change back. If you were patient, you could usually get enough for a few Big Macs. On the (somewhat) new fortress phones though, the phone will only follow the CR command if it is coming from the line CALLED (i.e., the operator). Now, the green box is virtualy useless. Of course, you could just call home, and play the tones from there, right? ("Hi mom. Hey, get that little green box from my desk, hold it up to the phone, and press that red button about 20 times, okay?). But, this could get your local Ma Bell representitive very angry, and a line trace would be imminent (well, they would probably trace if they happen to be monitoring payphones in the area, but they wouldn't be just sitting there scanning your call). Now before I get into my plan, let me explain the next bit of info: PGP. PGP stands for PrettyGoodPrivacy. It involves encryption, cell phone privacy, etc. Not just software, but there exists a whole organization based on it. With that vocabulary explained, I can explain my project..... You see, Macs have the uncanny ability to work very well with modems. My Mac-to-modem link works so well, that I can re-route my sound output to my modem to play over the phone. While it's just plain fun playing the "Kyle's Mom's A Bitch" MP3 for all my friends, this can also serve a more devious purpose. For example, what if I emulated tones on my Mac? See where I'm going? Of course, whats the point of that? A green box does the same thing, and it dosen't cost you $1,500 . This is where PGP comes in. There's a little-known Mac application called PGP Phone. It uses your modem to connect to annother modem. The two modems handshake, and then exchange info, speificaly a 'password'. The comp that your modem called gets the password, and checks it (you known how a password works!). If it's right, you can pick up your touch tone, and tah-da, your on an encrypted PGP line. No bugs, traces, or idents. Anyone trying to listen from an outside source would just get modem noise. If you combine PGP Phone and green box tones, you, in theory, have a secure line that spits out quarters. (NOTE: I have tried this with a friend who generously called me from a fortress. I don't know how the phone read the tones over that modem noise, but it did.) This is where things get technical (I will put them in easy to understand terms though). If a PGP is used to dial a phone/modem that DOSEN'T have PGP, your line will be secure, but the line you called wouldn't. Now, Ma Bell can scan/trace the called line, but not yours. They would know that a line is/is trying to connect, but they don't have the PGP code to find/listen to you. That I cannot explain in full. Just take my word for it. This is where I did some custom programing.... It's better if you see an example. Everythings still in alpha mind you..... Here's a short scenario of what's possible: It's lunch time at my school. I happen to be short 75 cents for a soda. I go to my local fortress phone and dial my private home #... (Modem picks up) (PGP starts) (Un-named application starts) I dial in my pass # (Un-named application recognizes tones, translates tones to key imputs, transfers them to the PGP application) (PGP recognizes keys as correct password, begins PGP modem encryption) I hear the modem noise. I then dial in the # of CR tones I want. (#'s are run through PGP) (PGP routs them to the un-named application) (Un-named app plays the ammount of CR tones according to the #) I collect my cash, then hang up (modem hangs up) (When modem hangs up, un-named app and PGP applications go back to stand-by) Get it? Mind you it's not perfect: There's no PGP until I enter my key tones. NOTE: This is only a presentation of what could be possible. Not all of the steps necessarily go in that order. I am aware that PGP and the un-named app my cause some conflicts. I am also aware of the possible security hole in a 'one-way' PGP. I will gladly take any suggestions. All software is in beta testing and the process is in alpha. If I ever finnish it, I might make the whole suite freeware. Until then.....? ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XII. Clothing & more This chapter is devoted to how a technophile should live. Like clothing and hygene habits. We're not forcing you to do any of these, of course, but they help. Part one - Clothing. The sad thing about those with technical knowledge is that many of the population does not know how to dress. These people (who are the least threatening in appearance) have been dubbed "nerds". These poor guys (they are usually guys) are not usually very street wise or knowledgeable in social matters as a whole. The way they affect us is that they are the stereotype technologically-knowledgeable fellows. Here is the best way to dress depending on your specialty... Before that, there are some universal clothing tips. Don't dress like a little kid. Also, If you look like a nerd no one will respect you. Dark colors are better than light colors. Black is the best. Gray comes in second. Trench Coats can't be beat. Never wear pink, or bright neon colors. Always carry a watch because agents should be able to tell the time. (Even if it's not worn.) The Phreak/Phracker/Anarchist - Those who play with phones or just go outside in general have to dress in a manner that is at least mediocre. It is really important to dress in a way so that no one notices you. Incognito. First, the shirt. T-shirts are always good and shirts with pockets are also an asset. For pants, jeans are necesary. Not too tight. Sweat pants are bad as they can often be stained and torn very very easily. Footwear depends on what you're going to do. If you're going to be climbing a phone pole, then wear boots for the grip they give. If you're going to do some breaking and entering, wear sneakers for the speed if you need to run. Hats are good if they aren't too big, especially for those with long hair and to conceal the hair color. Always wear underwear. Gloves are optional. Accessories are usually utilitary in nature. Like those pouches you may find in Army surplus stores. Sunglasses may hide your eyes to make identification harder to do. Trench coats are good for hiding large tools in. And at the same time concealing tool belts. The Trasher - If you're into trashing, don't dress in white. Dress in crap. If you wear anything that looks expensive and you're digging in the garbage, you'll look like someone looking for something your not supposed to. If you dress like a bum, they won't touch you. Wear boots as they are easy to clean. And heavy gloves are a must. Remember that you will be getting dirty. The Hacker/Cracker/Programmer - Those pure computer users who don't really go outside don't really have to dress at all! But those who stay in front of the screen, still have to dress when they go out though. If you're one of these people, you can dress more stylishly than the above people since if you get into trouble, they usually get you at home. But remember the universal rules. Part 2 - Living An ideal technophile is a human being who interacts with other people. You can't go around looking like a slob. Dressing well is half of what you have to do. You have to be clean. Your clothes have to be clean. Bill Gates bragged that he used to go without washing because he loved his work so much. That goes to show how stupid he is. You have to wash! Be clean. Clean yourself at least once a day. Use soap! Brush your teeth twice a day. Comb your hair! Things like that have to be said (sadly). Don't laugh, because a lot of people don't do this! Nobody likes a slob!! If you stink, you'd better take a bath. Respect is what you want, so hygene is very important. Part 3 - Taking care of things Always take care of your belongings. Don't let your tools rust. Don't let your clothes get dirty. Keeping yourself in good condition makes you a better techie. Exercise! The time of the fat guy with a beard is over! We of this generation must be fit! Especially now that we know that the radiation from our computers might be killing us! ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XIIV. Conduct Intro to CONDUCT part one : The 10 commandments of AoC 1. Keep your fucking mouth shut. 2. Never do anything unless you have a good chance of not getting caught. 3. Never lie to your own kind. 4. Never work against your own kind. 5. Never implicate your friends in anything. 6. Never take credit for another's work. 7. Don't threaten/harm or screw those who don't deserve such treatment. 8. Respect those who have gone through more than you. 9. Protect your own (friends). 10. Only use violence when necesary. Explainations : 1. Never ever talk out of place. You could get yourself into trouble, your friends, everyone. If you're going to box don't announce it to the world! Don't blabber any information that is important. You can rant about the world, but don't be pompous or tell people things that shouldn't be told to the general populous like "We're going to steal from here later." 2. If you're in a busy street, don't pull out the biege box, break open a pay phone and start stripping the wire! That's an extreme example but think before you act! Don't forget the pigs are never around when you need them, but when you're doing something, be sure as hell that that's the time their going to come strolling around the corner. 3. If we lie to each other, we lose everything. 4. If we try to screw up another guy's work, soon everyone's gonna be screwing with everybody else and nothing's gonna get done. 5. Don't go sending mail bombs and say you did it in the name of AoC! Don't go to a judge and say that AoC made you do it! We don't take that kind of crap. If you go down because of your own fucking incompetence, don't drag us down with you. 6. Another's work is theirs: you steal it and you're no better than the people we stand against. Never ever take credit for another's hard work! 7. We are in the business of working against those evil people who screw the common guy. We pretty much are the common guy. So screwing an innocent is like screwing yourself. And we all know what becomes of those who screw themselves. 8. What right do you have to disrespect a person who's gone through even a year of life more than you? Wouldn't you resent a nitwit who's younger than you who thinks they know everything? Well then, give people the respect they deserve. 9. We all have common goals. If one of us gets into trouble and you can help, HELP! Damn it! Don't be lazy. 10. You should be able to think out most of your problems. But if all else fails... Part 2 - General attitude Now you might think "Commandments? Shit." but these commandments are pretty useful. They keep us from destroying one another. Now I'll tell you how an Agent should act. Think about what we stand for first. We might be into anarchy. We might be into destruction. But are we mindless? No! We are intelligent people. We know our proverbial shit inside and out. There is no reason why we should act like fruit cakes all the time. Sometimes we have to borrow something from the feds... Scary no expression, no emotion, oppressive facial expressions. But why? For respect. What kind of person will respect a bunch of leering idiots? You have to be "cool" at least once in a while to get any kind of credibility. A person wants an image of sophistication. That means you shouldn't run around drunk and screaming that you've got a bomb or something. You should bathe, dress well, act cool. You might be "evil", but how far are you gonna get advertising it? What will you gain telling people to shove it, they'll shove you. Be an asshole and everyone's defences will go up. Be nice and then you can start the social manipulation. So don't act like a jerk, don't be pompous and don't be self-righteous. These are loser ways of acting. Try to act reserved. Try to be suave and calm. Cool headed. Not a slabbering fool. Don't put people down for no reason. Don't go into a place thinking yourself superior. If you act like shit, someone will inevitably (and hopefully) beat the act right out of you. Part 3 - Around the opposite sex. It will be assumed that most of you will be male. Sorry ladies. And most of these males will be trying to have contact with those of the female gender. The first thing that will be said is to not to try to impress them with the mention of any organization you might be a part of. It won't work and it's a shallow move. If you meet a lady with technical interest, treat her with respect. Don't think that they want you. Usually they don't. You have to work hard. All men do. Don't think it's as easy as red boxing or modifying your autoexec file. The only advice we have for the females out there is that there are a lot of nuts out there. Be careful but never overly cautious. Part 4 - Net conduct. Don't bomb (email, etc.) people for fun. If you've ever been in any kind of chat, you've probrably encountered scrolling assholes who think they're cool because they can put shit on the screen over and over again. It's not cool, it's annoying. This is mostly for AOL users. There is one thing an Agent is obliged to do though. It is to attack posers and assholes. A poser is one who thinks he/she is a hacker and can do things to you. An asshole is just a jerk who insults people for no reason. Assholes are not priority, but posers are. Posers are to be chastised with the Agent's discretion. And remember the fifth commandment - Don't attack people without cause, etc. Part 5 - Getting Physical. Now, it's been stated that agents should refrain from physical violence if at all possible. But sometimes that just can't be done. So here is how an agent should conduct him/herself if they get into such a situation - If it starts, you have to be ruthless and finish it! You have to be willing to neutralize the threat or else it will come back to haunt you. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Jail... So you've been arrested. You know you're fucking guilty yet you can't bring yourself to say it. You think that the man has screwed you and you don't know what the fuck to do. Get off it! Thinking this way will get you killed. Here are some rules of thumb. 1. If you weigh less than one hundred and forty five pounds, you may be in more trouble than you think. 2. If you like crying, you are in more trouble. 3. If you haven't started to shave yet, you're in trouble. 4. Never accept any gifts from anybody. So what am I saying? I'm saying that if you are a skinny wimpy, pre-pubesant twerp, you shouldn't have even gotten into a position where you could get arrested in the first place. Nobody belongs in a cell, but some people really have no business whatsoever in jail. If you don't have the common sense to figure out why that nice big guy is giving you all that candy and cigarettes at least think about why you would give someone else who is soft and young candy... That's right idiot! They wanna make you their bitch! Here are a couple of easy ways to be safe in the happiness of the jail cell. One, mind your own business. Don't stare. Don't do anything that might antagonize someone. Always try to stay stoic and cool in a situation. You don't have to frown like some freak. Just don't smile. Look plain. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XIV. Food and Eating Guidance Food is essential to life. You have to eat! Now since we can't eat the right stuff all the time, here's what to you should know about food, and how to get it cheap. 1. Vegetables in large quantities can fill you as much as meat can, and it's cheaper. 2. Taco Bell's probably the best fast food place to eat when you don't have a lot of money (Eat smart though). 3. Take advantage of any coupons or free stuff. You can use your money for things you HAVE to spend it on. If you can save money, do it. 4. Always try to eat healthy. Anything with complex carbohydrates like rice, pasta, potatoes and such are desirable. 5. Junk food is good as long as you can stand it. (Don't fill yourself with shit if it'll make you feel like shit) 6. Eat your fruits and vegetables. Fruit is good because it has little or no packaging, it's good for you, and it's cheap. 7. Stealing fruit is okay as long as you don't get caught. (Fruit is dirt cheap, like everything else should be.) 8. Eat SOMETHING everyday. You might need energy in a situation. 9. Don't eat TOO MUCH everyday. 10. Pasta is better than junk food (chips, etc.). 11. Candy is better than junk food. 12. Soda is better than coffee. 13. Water is better than soda. 14. Try to eat at least one serving of meat once a day. Nothing will give you protein and the other nutrients meat has. 15. If you need caffiene, think pills. They're made for what you want. 16. Jolt cola is the best drink for the long night ahead. 17. Pizza is not junk food. It covers many of the necessary food groups in one food. Let the oil/grease drip off before eating though, or it's a waste. 18. Soup & chili are economical choices when it comes to dining. 19. Large quantities are at many times better than quality. 20. Drink at least 6 glasses of water, not including non-water liquids each day if possible. It may sound unrealistic to some, but it's helpful if you can do it. 21. Eat healthy and you will be less susceptable to disease. It's bad enough to be surrounded by germs, that you don't need to invite them in by eating harmful shit. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XV. Anarchism Anarchism is engaging in the belief that all government is unjust, and that true freedom, our ideal state, is that without government. Most people today will say anarchists are "those guys with bombs that hurt/kill people". In reality, those are TERRORISTS. They rule by fear, and hurt people for a sense of power. However, real anarchists can be classified as sharing the belief that government is wrong. We (anarchists) do not hurt people, unless in self defense and we do not make/use weapons as a general rule. We do, however, look down upon any system in which any individual is put above any other. Monarchism is the same as Democracy, as they both grant privelages to certain people and not to others. We will not accept people who think that they should have more power than others. I did not agree to my current government, and I will not. In fact, had the original Framers of the constitution been around today, they would kill themselves rather than live in this hellishly broken system of injustice. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XVI. BBS' A BBS is is a Bulletin Board System. This is a computerized center where you can leave messages to other callers, share files with them, and play games with them. You need a communications program to call them with your computer, like Telix or Terminate. AoC has their BBS headquarters, UnforgiveN here in New York. There are hundreds of thousands of BBS's in the US, and more throughout the world. There are many types of BBS's. Here are some: Warez board - This is a BBS dedicated to the trade of "warez". "Warez" are pieces of software, always pirated. People who trade warez are known as warez "d00dz" or "pups". These boards usually are also Private boards, not allowing anyone who logs on to see anything of the board right away. Usually the granting of access is voted upon depending on the new user's affiliations and ability to understand certain acronyms (usually group names). Corporate board - This is a BBS dedicated to the functions of a corporation/business. They tend not to have games, unless the company the BBS is running for produces BBS games. Usually they advertise, allow you to order online, provide mail functions, and give updates of their products. HCPAV board - First, HCPAV means "Hacking Cracking Phreaking Anarchy Virii". Hacking and Phreaking were already explained. Cracking is the registration of programs illegally. Anarchy is INCORRECTLY referring to terrorism (weapons, demolitions, etc.), and Virii is the creation of working computer virii. These boards usually carry many many files under these five subjects, and usually have games and message bases that are moderately active. Games board - This is a BBS dedicated to gaming. They usually have MANY online games (called DOORS) and message bases that are partly for online Role Playing Games (AD&D, Call of Cthulhu, etc.). The file bases are usually filled with general utilities and a few are set aside for RPG or DOOR related files. Hobby board - This is a board without a real function or dedication. These are set up for someone interested in running a BBS for the sole purpose of being the SysOp (Systems Operator). These usually have message bases for general topics of the time, like Music, or Television. The file bases are set up for the user's interests, and the online games are what users there want to play. Adult board - This is a BBS for adults, or at least having on it games, files, and message bases, for adults. They carry pornography and erotica, and the message bases are of adult topics, or tend to have sexual references. The online games are usually adult-oriented mostly if not all. Fan board - This is a BBS dedicated to a certain celebrity, time, movie, book, story, etc. Some examples are "Death Star BBS", a Fan board of Star Wars. These are common and usually have files and message bases, and sometimes online games, geared to whatever they are fans of. Private board - This is a board closed off to anyone that those who run it have not given permission to. These are set up to lock people out, possibly by requiring a certain private password, by setting up their account in advance, or by some other means. Often these allow a short logon sequence where a possible user fills out an application (or something similar) and people vote on whether access should be granted or not. To find a good BBS in your area, go to www.cshopper.com ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XVII. Trashing Trashing is the sport of hackers and thieves, by which you go through someone's (a company, usually) trash (usually bins of it) looking for information. Hackers, Phreaks, and the like usually look for phone numbers not available to the general public, names & passwords, any technical information, and other stuff related to their hobby. The thieves usually look for credit card numbers, and usually look over at Macy's, Sears, etc. Trashing is also called "Dumpster Diving" for it's constantly occuring in dumpsters, and when things are stolen blatantly from Telephone Company trucks, it's called "Trucking". Trashing, by the way, can be for anything. People throw away a lot of useful shit, and if you want/need some of it bad enough, you'll get it through trashing. When trashing, remember a few rules: * Take the trash with you, and examine it later, when you're safe. You don't want to be caught red-handed, sitting in a bin, covered in trash. * Bring friends. You should bring at least one good friend for a lookout, and if possible, bring a car that you can toss the trash into, and drive away with. Cover the license plate. * Wear quiet boots or sneakers, and don't yell, etc. Use common sense. * Wear rubber gloves, or some other type of handwear, so you don't leave fingerprints, AND so you don't get diseases from the decaying garbage. * Trash LATE at night, (early in the AM. 2 or 3). Less people will be awake, and any security guards will tend to think any noises you might make were that of a stray cat or dog. * As we stated before, if you dress like you belong in the alley, looking through garbage, no one will be suspicious. If caught, you can say you were looking for a meal, or something to make your house out of. Use your imagination. * Bring some mace, or pepperspray, in case you are attacked by someone. * If you cannot bring a car with you, trash next to your mode of transportation, or at least, bring a guy with you who is small, can hide easily, and can run quickly. Give him anything you find in case you get caught (or might). * Bring these things: Garbage bags, Plastic bags, etc. Gloves, Boots Flashlights Knife Weapon (Not a firearm unless you have a license) Knapsack (Put all the junk in it, carry weapon on you) Pliers, Lock Clips Smoke Grenade, if possible. Get at army/navy store That's it. Be careful, be smart, be prosperous. Thanks to one of the best trashers ever, Angstrom. (Note: Recently the terms "Trucking" and "Vanning" have come about, referring to the raiding of unlocked phone company trucks and vans.) ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ XIIX. The Declaration of Digital Independence We, the computer-literate and technologically superior, in order to break the ignorant chains of those who hold us back, do hereby declare our freedom from those who control what they do not understand. We wish to no longer hear the cries of "pornography-superhighway" and "cyber-patrol". We reject the repulsive nonsense shoved down our throats by all forms of media telling of the dangers of piracy, pornography, and in general, free thought. There are no "cyber-molesters" we cannot stop as a people. If you educate your children like the good parent you should be, they should know what is right and what is wrong, and will be wise, young judges, with free thought and judgement. We cannot simply "block" what we find offensive, on the net, on bulletin boards, and as we all know, in real life. We must learn to deal with the "day to day inadequacies" of life, and we must not simply become mindless drones of those that fight to restrict freedom. We must fight even harder than they, and we must fight to stay free, or all right is lost. If it's not worth fighting for, then you have already been brainwashed. The internet (NOT info-superhighway, or i-way, as those terms are simply insulting and degrading, made up by the ignorant) cannot and SHOULD NOT be regulated. It should be allowed to make it's own rules. It is bigger than any world you can and can't imagine, and it will not be controlled. It is the embodiment of all that is free; free information, friendship, alliances, materials, ideas, suggestions, news, and more. The "Cyber-Angels" are only well-meaning do-gooders with nothing better to do than to "tattle" on those with different ideas than they. They use entrapment, and have twisted their ideas and values to make them apply to cyberspace, trying to rule an area they do not understand. Fighting for the freedom to think is good, but to fight for an idea you believe is the only true idea is itself ignorance. The nazis believed that they were superior, in ideas and actions, and the "Cyber Angels" are nothing more. You cannot stop freedom of thought, and they try anyway, to convert anyone and everyone to their mode of thought. But those of us who see clearly know that the internet is the greatest invention ever, topping the telephone and electricity. It is a gathering of the mental body of billions of people, and we will not be stopped. The media, as it is known, is the propaganda vending machine of today. As a whole, they trip over themselves, feeding lies to the ignorant, and we who are not will watch too, to laugh at the stupidity that is the media. We sit in front of our televisions, or listening to the radio, or looking at a newspaper or a magazine, and we laugh. We laugh and laugh, because the media has become a ridiculous pool of lies and half-truths. They say we're more dangerous than sicknesses, and nuclear weapons, because we choose to laugh at their ideas and boundaries, and we fight to expand them. We laugh at the pitiful security devices used to keep knowledge from spreading, and we rip down the beaurocratic bullshit tape they put up in virtual doorways. We call the boards they show on the news, covered in ideas and values different than theirs, and we like it. We like asking for a computer program that we never would have bought, and having it show up in our mailboxes. We like leaving messages on BBS' containing information on how to blow up a building or how to kill a man with your bare hands. We like it, not because it scares people or because it's "twisted" or "evil", but because it's forbidden, and lost. You do not know what a "redbox" is? Come, friend, and I will spread the lost knowledge. And when I tell you, you will tell another, and we will be held together by the knowledge which we "should not know". We are the illuminati, and the enlightened. We look not to the old sciences of textbook learning, but to the primitive ways, of communication and experience. We are sickened by the unenlightened. We despise those who wish not to learn, and those who read the same books, over and over again, under different names, believing that they are learning. We are the "different", and the "abnormal", those who are sometimes disliked because we regurgitate the lies fed to us by the governing. Everyone has the need to know, the curiousity of the caveman who invented fire, but some have been trained like monkeys, not ever knowing it's there. They simply accept things, and do what is expected of them, and this is sad. They are those who never fight back, and never open their minds. And they are, unfortunately, usually the governing bodies; the teachers, bosses, police, federal agents, congressmen, senators, parents, and more. And this, my friend, must change. We will not be "voted out", and we will not be mentally disfigured. If they had the chance, government and the media would give everyone a virtual labotamy. Our minds to be held in chains, forced to take in what is given. This is unacceptable. We will not be held down, by the ignorant, the foolish, and especially the lazy. We take your textbooks and your lies, and we put them back in the dusty storerooms where they belong. And we share ideas, and make new ones, and sometimes ask for a hand to hold, and not one around our throat. We see what no others can, and what no others want to see. It is a technological revolution, and a revolution of ideas. We will fight in battles for our freedom to think, should there be any, but we will not start any. We are not a violent group, but our opposition believes ideas should not be let loose to grow, and they will begin the battle. They have no honor, stealing from us our rights, our liberty, and our freedom of thought. And for this, we label them unforgiven. Anarchy ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Poisons This chapter is largely, if not wholly taken from "poison a-z" by someone named GBIG bad BARBARIANH, which was itself based on "Murder Ink", a book by Dilys Winn. We included this because we thought it was a great and useful text that probably doesn't get out to all the people who could use it. AMANITA PHALLOIDES (Mushrooms) - This kind of mushroom is distinguishable from its non-lethal, tasty twin AGARICUS CAMPESTRIS by its tiny white scales and warts. You can cook amanita without detoxificating it at all, so it is quite easy to serve this baby up to somebody without arousing suspicion. You've got 12 hours to head down to Mexico before your victim gets hit with relatively mild nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. These won't be too bad for another day or so, when they will become bad enough that he will seek medical assistance. But by then it may be too late, and death by circulatory collapse may have occurred. If not, then in 3 or 4 days his skin will turn yellow from liver deterioration, and how long can you live without a liver? ARSENIC - A classic toxin, sometimes called "inheritance powder", because it's often used by families to snuff out Granny so they can inherit her money before the hospital bills consume it. It is a white, tasteless, odorless powder sold in the form of compounds such as ant paste or weed killer. If the victim is to die quickly, 1 gram of this substance will do the job. In 3 or 4 hours, the victim lays deathly ill, puking and shitting all over the place, and in 1 to 3 days he will die from cirulatory collapse. For a slower, lingering death, feed your victim extremely small doses of arsenic on a daily basis. Gradually, the victim gets weaker, starts losing his hair, his skin roughens and white ridges appear on his nails (Aldrich-Mees lines.) The symptoms then increase to include multiple nerve paralysis, hoarseness and a hacking cough. Numbness and coldness creep up the victims limbs and, over a matter of years, they become completely paralyzed. This method may backfire, because if the doses are too small, the victim's body then has a chance to build up a tolerance to arsenic, and becomes practically immune to the poison. In some cases, a would-be arsenic victim has swallowed arsenic for the first time, and had no effect from it. Rasputin, for example, was naturally immune to arsenic. CARBON MONOXIDE - You Nazis can just skip over this section because you know all about this. Carbon monoxide is a tasteless, odorless gas that attaches itself to the body's hemoglobin to the point that the blood cannot carry oxygen to body cells, and the body simply suffocates. Beginning symptoms are headaches, giddiness, shortness of breath from exertion, and tinitus (ear ringing). The lack of oxygen to the brain then causes a sort of drunken state, which means that even if the victim knows that someone is trying to fuck him over, he's too wasted to do anything about it. Even if the victim doesn't die, amnesia from the oxygen deprivation will prevent him from identifying his assassin. The latter stage of the poisoning is marked by a cherry-red discoloration of the skin, and a breathing disorder called the Cheyne-Stokes pattern sets in. This is a pattern of 30 seconds of no breathing followed by 6 to 8 rapidly increasing deep breaths, and the cycle turns over. After this, there remains only convulsions, unconsciousness, a fever of 108o and then death, usually within 48 hours. If not, then probably between 3 to 8 days later the grim reaper will at last harvest the victim's life. Even if the victim is hardy enough to recover after all this, he will probably turn psychotic! Carbon monoxide can be produced from a number of sources: smoldering coke or charcoal, a low-lit hibachi grill, and of course, an automobile exhaust pipe. CURARE - This is derived from something called CHRONDRODENDRON TOMENTOSUM. Curare works only as an injection, because digestion is supposed to be harmless. I wouldn't take it either way, myself. Curare affects the human body by impairing the communication of nErve impulses to the muscles, causing paralyzation. Within minutes the victim starts coughing a little and his face flushes. The poison works from head to toe, so the eyEs will droop as the first sign of paralysis, followed by the inability to swallow or speak. When the diaphragm is frozen, the lungs can NO longer respirate, and suffocation causes death before any other significant symptoms can occur. Curare is ideal for assassination, because it is extremely hard to detect. However, if it is detected, the victim can be saved by an 1-ampule injection of prostigmin. CYANIDE - Cyanide works by rending oxygen in blood unusable by the body. A person who takes cyanide will have difficulty breathing, but will turn bright pink from an abundance of unused oxygen. Cyanide can be derived from bitter almonds and peach and apricot pits. In fact, cyanide poisoning can be detected by almond-breath, as well as the skin discoloration. The antidote is an amyl nitrite pearl HEROINE - Almost any illegal drug can be used to kill, but heroine is particularly lethal. Heroine is usually cut or diluted with quinine and sugars, but pure heroine is poison. Even a hardened junkie couldn't handle that. If a junkie normally takes a lot of heroine, then cuts back for awhile, a large injection of cut heroine, even a dosage size he's tolerated in the past, will be an overdose. Unconsciousness is instantaneous from a heroine overdose; O.D.'s have often been found with the needle still in their arm. Coma occurs, and breathing slows to about 2 to 3 respirations per minute. The pupils pinpoint, blood pressure plummets causing the skin to grow cold and clammy, and as blood supply to the brain disappears the pupils yawn wide open as death wraps its fingers around the victim. NERVE GAS - This encompasses several poisons, including Tabun, Sarin (T-46), Soman, DFP (DCP), all of which work pretty much the same way. These are typically odorless and colorless, and can be either inhaled or absorbed by the skin. These poisons break down acetylcholine, a neural transmitter to the muscles, which causes hyperexcitability. Symptoms are a runny nose, wheezing, tightness in the chest, salivation, light intolerance, paralysis and death. Atropine is an antidote, but while EARLY Nazi gases took up to 20 minutes to work, newer gases work so quickly that antidote administration is somewhat impractical. STRYCHNINE - This poison is used as for sadism and torture as much as IS FOR murder. Onset time is a mere 15 minutes, at which time the victim is racked with horrendous, muscular convulsions, the kind that pick you up off your feet, and contort your limbs until your bones snap. When the victim's spasms subside, just gently nudge him to set them off again. Death by strychnine poisoning is NOT a nice way to go. THALLIUM - Banned in the United States in 1965, this rat poison may still be available in other parts of the world. Like other poisons, this too is odorless and tasteless, which makes it fine to blend with sugar or salt or any kind of food. This stuff takes awhile to work; 3 to 4 days after consumption is when it takes effect. At first, there is diffuse pain and constipation, dark pigmentation around hair roots, and psychological disturbances. During the second week after consumption, the victim starts losing all body hair (except for eyebrows and pubies), and the skin turns dry and scaly. There are heart palpatations, paralysis and blindness. Death occurs due to pneumonia and lung congestion. Thallium is like arsenic, in that it can be administered slowly, in several small doses over many months. WARFARIN - Another rat poison, but this one is legal here in the U.S.. Its effect on the body is that is interferes with the bloodclotting system. The victim shows signs of bleeding in the form of nosebleeds, gum bleeding, bruises, bloody urine, and bloody stool. There's one problem with warfarin, or benefit, depending on how you look at it. It only effects humans in extremely large doses. But it does mix well with porridge or stew, and multiple doses may be employed. The antidote is large doses of vitamin K. There are also some substances which have other intended uses, but can just as easily be used as poisons. Here are a few potential toxins. AMPHETAMINE - Speeds up metabolism. BARBITURATE - Slows the metabolism. BUBBLE - Yes, a bubble of air. Injected into the bloodstream, a large one can cause a heart attack. CALCIUM - Causes kidney failure, which causes coma, resulting in death. INSULIN - Lowers the level of blood sugar, resulting in convultions and death. OXYGEN - This removes the body's drive to breath. This causes emphysema and results in carbon dioxide narcosis. POTASSIUM - Gradually reduces the heartbeat to about 0 beats per minute. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ *. Credits Contributing Agents ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Anarchy - Founder, Editor Ebola - Public Relations Man Molester - Sadism Incarnate Dr. Nick - Identification expert ImpulseTick and DVampy - Unofficial members by inclusion Angstrom - Head trasher and trucker Mini-Wiglet - Angstrom's keeper MaDCoW - A great artist, writer, and a sick man. Nemesis - Another great artist, who NEVER stops drawing. Monarchy - Research and Development Stoph - Violence, contained weakly. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Greetings - Alyen - You suck in lasertag. Get more drunk next time. Blank Null - Hey man, thanks for being patient. Bluerose - Hey, girl! Cheese-Monkey - When you're done being MIA, gimme a call. Holio - Where the fuck is my weaponry? Use the bits of your car to make it, you fuck-up. Maverick - Don't let the assholes at the meet discourage you. Keep getting drunk with Molester, too. Michelle - If you keep that smile, I'll always have mine. She Devil - Damn it, get a handle. Anyhow, if you're reading this, you probably should be asleep. So go to bed. Slaytan - You dillhole. Get the fucking over early, so you can get to the meets on time. (On time for getting drunk with Molester & Maverick) All the guys at the hacker meetings. (Don't call them 2600 meetings) My heroes, John Draper (Cap'n Crunch) and Phiber Optik. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ "Fuck You!"s TPM & I-Ball - Stop spreading lies, or loose your lives. Lynn Gazis 2727 Midtown Ct Apt 37 Palo Alto, CA 94303-3928 (415)321-3449 Wing Lam ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Bibliography - This handbook was put together with the help of a lot of other works. Here they are: Anarchist Cookbook by William Powell Anarchist Handbook 1, 2, and 3 by Robert Wells Counterbomb by Lawrence W. Myers Deadly Brew, by Seymour Lecker Explosive Principles by Robert A. Sickler Hitman by Rex Feral How to Kill by John Minnery Homemade Semtex by Seymour Lecker Professional Booby Traps by Seymour Lecker Ragnar's Action Encyclopedia of Practical Knowledge and Proven Techniques, by Ragnar Benson Ragnar's Homemade Detonators by Ragnar Benson Smart Bombs by Lawrence W. Myers The Art and Science of Dumpster Diving by John Hoffman Zips, Pipes, and Pens by J. David Truby ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ America OnLine "Why're people on America OnLine?" the commercial asks. There are a few simple reasons. Besides the fact that AOL has flooded the market with their free CDs and diskettes, and it's a Mickey-Mouse ISP, the place is a seething hotbed of criminal activity. Their chat rooms, which are not found anywhere else, along with their huge amount of e-mail box space make AOL a very rich environment in which to trade pirated software and pornography, or deal in illegally obtained information. For porn, go to rooms that suit what you want: jpgs, gifs, avis, porn, nrop, sluts, ass, nudes, pics... For warez, go to warez rooms like: server1, server2, poa, games, zeraw, a, abc, free... BTW, there IS a group on AOL called "AoC" that formed a while after we did, named Angelz On Crack. As far as I know, they're a crappy warez group, but some of the members are friendly people. Anyway, we're not related, at all. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Automobile Modification ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Flamethrowers No, that's not slime. Feels like it, though, doesn't it? No, that's the innovative weapon of choice, Napalm. Don't burn too quickly! ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Cable TV ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Lockpicking Lock picking is a skill which requires a certain amount of manual dexterity, a good amount of knowledge, and practice. PRACTICE To practice lock picking, you'll need certain tools. These are suggested: 1. A pin cylinder lock This type of cylinder is found in most common night latches. All locksmithing suppliers and many large hardware stores carry these for about $3.00 each. Try to get one as close to the one illustrated as possible, with the plug retained by a round plate and two screws. You will be removing and replacing the plug many times, and its ease of removal and installation is an important factor. 2. A plug follower This can be attained either from a locksmith supply house, or simply made from a short stretch of 1/2 inch diameter wooden dowell. 3. A pair of large tweezers These are for removing and inserting the tumbler pins. These can be purchased at most hardware suppliers. You might wish to file the tips as shown... 4. A small set of lock picks and a torsion/tension wrench. These can be purchased from a locksmith supply house or made by yourself. 5. A small vice This will be for holding the cylinder while you practice on it. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Poisons Acrylonitrile (cyanide-like) Aniline (inhaled or absorbed) Antimony trichloride (vapor) Arsenic (Paris Green, Rat Poison, Ant Paste, Fowler's Solution) Atropine (Bella Donna, Hometropine, Hyoscine, Hyoscyamine, Jimson Weed, Scopolamine) Amytal, Barbital, Dial, Ipral, Pentobarbital, Phenobarbital, Seconal, veronal O.D.'s Benzidine Oil of Bitter Almonds (Cyanide) Black Leaf 40 (nicotine) Bromine (vapor) Cadmium (vapor, death delayed 4 hrs.) Cantharides (Spanish Fly) from vet., O.D. Carbon disulfide (vapor, liquid) Carbon tetrachloride (phosgene vapor) Cathartic pills Cherry Laurel Water (cyanide) Chloronitrobenzine Copper Sulfate (Bluestone) Curare (Introcostrin, used by vets.) Cyanogen (Ethanedinitrile, Dicyan, Oxalic Acid Dinitrile) Bromine cyanide, Cyanogen chloride, Iodine cyanide, Prussic Acid, Sodium cyanide, Potassium cyanide) Ethylene Chlorohydrin (liquid, vapor) Ethyl mercury chloride (liquid, solid, vapor) Ethyl mercury chloride, Ethyl mercury phosphate, Ethyl mercury (same as above) Fire extinguisher fluid (contains: Carbon tet., Methyl Bromide, Chloroform.) Roach Poisons (1080, Sodium monofluoracetate, Sodium fluosilicate) Freon (when heated by flame) Metallic hydrides (Arsine, Phosphine, Stipine gasses) Metacide (Parathion) Morphine (Codeine, Paregoric, Laudanum, Dilaudid, Heroin O.D.'s) Nicotine sulfate Nitrobenzene Oxalic Acid & Oxalates (Radiator cleaner delayed death) Parathion (E-605, Thiphos, Thiosphosphate) Phosphorus-white (Fireworks and foreign match heads, rat poisons) Phogene (Carbon tet., Chloroform in contact with flame.) Tetrachloroethane (acetylene tetrachloride) Tetraethyl pyrophosphate (TEPP) Thallium (Thalgrain rat poison) Toxaphene (Chlorinated camphene) Toluidine (vapor) Weed killers (2, 4-D) PLANT POISONS 1. Castor Beans Ricin from castor beans is one of the deadliest of all poisons. .035 mg. is enough to kill if inhaled or injected intravenously (it is considerably less toxic when ingested, though one well chewed castor bean will kill). The extraction of the Ricin is simple and the castor bean plant itself can be obtained from many nurseries across the country. The toxic effects of Ricin do not take place until twelve to thirty-six hours after exposure, after which your target will experience symptoms of nausea, diarrhea, comiting, disorientation, and cyanosis, leading to eventual circulatory collapse and death. 2. Precatory Beans The phyrotoxin abrin from precatory beans, also known as jequirity beans, is very similar to Ricin and the extraction process listed next may be used for both. Precatory bean plants may also be purchased at nurseries nationwide. The poison of Precatory beans is the chemical Abrin. - Extraction process for Ricin and Abrin To allow for the removal of seed hulls, soak 2-3 ounces of castor beans in about 10 ounces of water with two tablespoons of lye. You'll have to weight the beans down with clean gravel or marbles. Let it soak for about an hour, remove, rinse, and let dry. The hulls may then be removed easily. Place the hulled beans in a blender with four times their weight of acetone, until thoroughly ground. Pour into a covered jar and let stand for 72 hours. Then pour into another container through a coffee filter. Wearing surgical gloves and a mask, squeeze out as much of the acetone as possible. Then add fresh acetone and repeat the standing and filtering process two more times. Your end resulting residue will be pretty nearly pure Ricin (or Abrin) 3. Water Hemlock Water hemlock as all the characteristics of the perfect Plant Poison; a small amount (only 2-3 gm. of the plant) needed to kill, an agreeable taste, a strong similarity to a widely eaten plant (parsnip - in fact, a member of the parsnip family), and violence of termination. After ingesting Water Hemlock, within 15 minutes to an hour the victim will begin to salivate excessively and undergo a series of violent convulsions, including clamping and chewing movements of the jaw so severe, the tongue is usually ripped to shreds. This same clamped jaw effect will also make it difficult for the victim to vomit, which is about his/her only hope. Death usually occurs within fifteen minutes from the time of the first symptoms. 4. Tung-Oil Tree Tung-oil trees produce a nut, the kernal of which is similar to the Brazil nut. As they have an agreeable taste, it wouldn't be difficult for the victim to eat three or four (which is enough to kill) before the first symptoms appear half an hour later. Symptoms include nausea, abdominal pains, diarrhea and vomiting, cyanosis, and within several hours, death. Tung-oil trees are quite common in the Gulf Coast states. 5. Yellow Oleander The main toxin of Yellow Oleander is a cardiac glycoside, thevetin. The inner portion of the fruit contains a pair of kernals, there being enough thevetin in five or six of those kernals to kill anyone. Death occurs within 24 hours of initial ingestion. 6. The Alkaloids These plants are the most commonly available sources of lethal alkaloids. The extraction process for alkaloids is given at the end of this section. All alkaloids are soluble in alcohol, so a victim of them that has been drinking will have the least possible chance of recovery. Tobacco Nicotine from tobacco is actually one of the deadliest of poisons. There is enough nicotine in three cigarettes to kill a man. As it can be obtained from tobacco, nicotine is one of the most commonly available of all poisons. Sixty to seventy milligrams of pure nicotine ingested will kill anyone within an hour or less. Yew The alkaloid taxine from yew is just as deadly as nicotine. The bark, seeds, and needles all contain large amounts of this substance, although the red fruit surrounding the seeds is relatively harmless. Symptoms of taxine poisoning, as well as nicotine poisoning, include nausea, vomiting, muscular weakness, convulsions, coma, and death. Yew, also known as ground hemlock, is found in almost all parts of the United States. Monkshood Also known as wolfsbane, this plant may be more difficult to obtain than some of the other alkaloid-bearing plants, but it is the deadliest of them all. Two to three milligrams of aconitine from monkshood is enough to end anyone's life. The plant itself contains so much of this poison that it will cause a numb, tingling sensation in the hand that picks it. It unfortunately has the same effect in the mouth, which might cause the victim of spit it out. Because of this, the poison is recommended for post-extraction use only. Death from aconitine poisoning is gruesome. Victims have died screaming, who don't last more than twenty minutes past initial ingestion. Zigadenus Zigadenus contains a number of dangerous alkaloids and is common in the Western and Midwestern states north to Canada. Extraction is recommended for use. Potato Sprouts Potato sprouts (and green or spoiled potatoes) contain solanine, a deadly glycol-alkaloid. Extraction is recommended, as the amount of solanine in potato sprouts can vary greatly. Woods Hemlock This plant's extract is the poison that killed Socrates. The name of the alkaloid is conium. Extraction is recommended, as the plant has a sickening odor that makes it unpalatable for most people. Autumn Crocus This plant, introduced from Europe, is widely planted in gardens across the country for its autumn flower. All parts of it contain the very dangerous alkaloid, colchicine, a good choice for extraction. PROCESS FOR ALKALOID EXTRACTION First chop up the foliage of the plant (this is best done with a blender) and place it in a coffee percolator. Fill the pot about 1/3 full with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Percolate for an hour, adding more as needed for the first half hour. The remaining half hour, try to let it boil down to where there are only a couple of ounces left. These two ounces or less contain the alkaloid. Place it in a dish and let the alcohol evaporate. What remains will be more or less pure poison. A less efficient method, but one that doesn't require a coffee percolator, is to merely heat the chopped-up plant in rubbing alcohol over a low flame, strain, and evaporate. 7. Poisonous Mushrooms The deadliest poisonous mushrooms are the Death Cup (Amanita Phalloides), and its two close relatives, the Destroying Angel (Amanita virosa) and the Fool's Mushroom (Amanita verna). Symptoms do not take effect for six to eight hours from the time of ingestion. The victim will then experience some stomach pain, nausea, and vomiting. These symptoms will go away after a couple of hours, and the victim will feel fine for the next two or three days. Then symptoms will reappear more strongly, and the victim will die. The same process used in extracting the alkaloids can be used in extracting the poison from these mushrooms. - Cortinarius Orellanus Very little is known of this rare species. One thing which is known is that it contains a lethal poison whose effects are so slow that it can take up to 160 days for symptoms to begin. This amazing killer was considered harmless until the mid-sixties. ANIMAL TOXINS 1. Poisonous Snakes There are only four types of venomous snakes in the United States. At least one of these, the copperhead, is only poisonous enough to reliably kill the sick, the quite young, and the quite old. The cottonmouth, or water moccasin, is a larger, more poisonous, more aggressive snake which lives in the swamps and waterways of the South. If you have a target who owns a boat on a Southern lake, that would be a good place to plant a well-grown cottonmouth right before your mark goes on a boat trip. Do it on a chilly morning when the snake, cold-blooded, will probably stay wherever you hide him, like under a seat. The Coral snake is also found in the South, and has a venom as poisonous as a cobra's, to which it is related. Unfortunately though, it is small and unaggressive, with a short mouth that could only grab at a finger or a toe. Put one in the pair of boots your target left outside during a rainstorm. You can let a rattlesnake loose in your target's cellar (first crush the warning rattle; this could have happened from being tread upon by cattle, a deer, etc.). The best rattler is a fully grown Eastern or Western diamond back. They are the largest, the most poisonous, and the most aggressive. 2. Scorpions These small creatures have been responsible for a surprising number of deaths in the United States. Only one of the forty species, however is venomous enough to be considered fatal - the Centruroides exilicauda. It is pretty much limited to the Arizona area. 3. Tetrodoxin Once used by the Ninja of feudal Japan, tetrodoxin has an interesting history. It comes from the egg sac of the female tetraondontidae, a small, beautifully colored tropical fish, which can be obtained from most tropical fish dealers nationwide. Certain restaurants in Japan actually serve the fish, where it is regarded as a delicacy. To offer this dish (called fugu by the Japanese) requires special licensing and training by the government. Apparently, the secret behind not killing the restaurant-goers is to excite the fish, causing it to inflate, upon which both sides are slit with a knife and the tiny lima bean shaped poisonous sac is removed. As little as 2 mg. will kill a man within a minute or less if introduced directly into the bloodstream. Symptoms do not have time to appear. 4. Tarichatoxin Now considered to be fairly equal to tetrodoxin, this poison is secreted from the skin of the female California newt Taricha torosa. 5. Batrachotoxin The skin of the kokoi frog of South and Central America releases a toxin ten times as deadly tetrodoxin and similar in its effects. A terrarium of kokoi frogs makes more sense than an aquarium of tetraodontidae. The poison from kokoi frogs can be removed at any time during spawning season (January-February). Batrachotoxin may be obtained from frogs of either sex, not just the female, as with tetrodoxin and blowfish. The Indians use batrachotoxin for poisoning arrows. Their method of extraction involves spitting the frog and heating over a flame. It is probable that there is a method of extraction that does not involve seriously harming the frogs, such as pricking the frog in a sensative area with a needle, and then, wearing gloves, scraping the poison off the frog. Kokoi frogs are occaisonally handled by dealers. Ask at your local pet shop or tropical fish store. Its brilliant colors make it about the most beautiful of frogs, so your inquiry will certainly not be suspect. 6. Cantharides True cantharides, also known as Spanish fly, is surprisingly lethal, the fatal dose being in the area 400 mg. or less. The symptoms include a burning in the stomach and throat, salivation, blistering of the tongue, nausea, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, severe colic tenesmus, a burning irritation of the bladder and urethra, delirium, convulsions, and coma. Symptoms usually appear within fifteen minutes and last for several hours before the victim dies. Probably the best source for the genuine cantharides is a drug dealer. Place little trust in the ads in the back of sexually-oriented magazines. Even if you find one selling true cantharides, it is sure to be extremely watered down. If you are interested in an aphrodisiac, try yohimbine. The only arousing effect of cantharides is a burning sensation in the urethra (similar to what the male experiences from gonorrhea infection). 7. Botulism As .000028 of one gram will kill a man, this poison is quite lethal. When ingested, symptoms occur in twelve to thirty-six hours, and include fatigue, dizziness, headache, constipation, vertigo, difficulty in swallowing and in speech, the regurgitation of fluids from the nose and mouth, muscular incoordination, and eventual death from respiratory failure. Taken through the bloodstream, death is quick and relatively symptomless. Botulism is fun and easy to make. Fill a jar with corn, green beans, or chopped beats. Drop in a few pieces of meat and about a tablespoon of fresh dirt. Now pour in water until the surface tension brings it above the top edge of the jar, then screw on the cap TIGHTLY. If done properly, there should be no air or next to no air trapped in the jar. It may help if you blend the vegetable used. Put this jar in a dark, moderately warm area for ten days. At the end of this period, you should notice a bloat to the lid of the jar and small amounts of a brownish mold. These are the cultures of Clostridium botulinum, which produce the botulinus exotoxin, also known as botulism, as a biproduct of digestion. As this can be a hit-and-miss method, use two or three jars at a time. CHEMICAL POISONS 1. Arsenic The two main reasons for the wide use of arsenic amoung poisoners historically are its complete tastelessness and the fact that less than a gram will kill. The first symptoms appear in about an hour. Then the target will experience a cold clamminess to his skin, weakness, convulsions, coma, and soon, death. Incidentally, metallic arsenic and its sulfides are relatively non-toxic, and the rest of the salts, such as arsenious oxide, being very toxic, as described above. 2. Antimony The effects of antimony are identical to those of arsenic, as they both interfere with cellular metabolism. Symptoms and dosage are the same, so see above. Metallic antimony is also relatively non-toxic, though its sulfides may be dangerous. For poisoning with antimony, use antimony oxide. 3. Cyanide One of the more popular poisons of modern times, cyanide is merely the combination of two of our most common elements, carbon and nitrogen (the cyanide radical, -CN). Potassium cyanide, which we will explain how to make shortly, will kill anyone in the amount of .2 gm., usually in under 15 minutes. Symptoms begin immediately and include giddiness, headache, palpatation, unconsciousness, and death. Incidentally, a large number of plants have some cyanogenetic potential, or the ability to form and store cyanide. One man died from eating a cupful of apple seeds. However, the use of these plants is not reliable enough for practical use. To make potassium cyanide, eight parts of potassium ferrocyanide are mixed intimately with three parts of potassium carbonate, and placed in a non-porous crucible heated red-hot, preferably with a blow torch. This is kept up until gas ceases to be evolved and the liquid matter is transparent. This liquid portion is poured off into a bowl where it can later be powdered and stored. The remaining sediment in your crucible is mostly iron and may be disposed of. 4. White Phosphorous The lethal dose for white phosphorous is about 400 milligrams. Symptoms vary greatly with the individual. They may start immediately or after several hours delay, with nausea and vomiting (the vomit, by the way, is luminescent). Death may follow soon after from vascular collapse or there may be a period of one to three days where no symptoms appear. During this time, irreversible damage is being done to the liver, kidney, heart, muscle and nervous systems. Symptoms then reappear much more strongly and the victim dies within 1-2 days. Alcohol strongly increases the toxic effects of phosphorous. 5. Phosphate Esters Discovered by the Germans in WW2, phosphate esters are now primarily used as insecticides. Symptoms begin within minutes of ingestion and include weakness, unsteadiness, blurred vision, pains in the chest and stomach, vomiting, diarrhea, tremors, cyanosis, coma, convulsions, and within twenty-four hours, death. Listed below are ten of these insecticides and the lethal dose for each: Trade Name: Lethal Dosage: ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ TEPP 100 mg. Di-syston 300 mg. Guthion 300 mg. EPN 400 mg. Systox 200 mg. OMPA 350 mg. Phosdrin 250 mg. Trithion 900 mg. Parathion 200 mg. Methyl Parathion 250 mg. 6. Sodium Fluoroacetate This is a rodenticide, also known as "1080." Lethal dose is in the area of 1 gram. Symptoms include excessive salivation, nausea and vomiting, cyanosis, cardiac irregularities, and death from respiratory failure or ventricular fibrillation. 7. Tetraethyl Lead This substance, formerly added to gasoline to lessen "knocks" is fatal in the amount of 150 milligrams. It causes degenerative lesions in the brain and other tissues. Your target will experience excitement of the central nervous system with delirium and mania before he dies. 8. Mercury The most lethal of the mercuric salts are mercuric chloride, mercuric salicylate, mercuric arsenate, mercuric oxycyanide, mercuric fluoride, and red mercuric oxide. All of these are fatal in a dosage of 1-2 grams. The symptoms are something like those of thallium, though not as terrible. They include nausea, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, muscle tremors and spasms, excessive salivation, loosening of teeth, depression, nervousness, and brain damage. Death occurs in about a week. Metallic mercury as found in a thermometer is not toxic, as it cannot be absorbed through the digestic tract. TERRIBLE POISONS 1. Diamond Diamond dust is perhaps the most terrible poison in existance, and after our brief explanation, it will be easy to understand why. Every poison has a principle behind its action - cyanides attack, alkaloids destroy, barbiturates deaden, glycosides deteriorate, ricin and abrin phytotoxins agglutinate. Diamond dust abrades. If one ingests diamond dust, the natural peristaltic motion of the digestive tract causes these tiny splinters of the world's hardest substance to imbed themselves along the alimentary canal, the natural motions of the inner body causing them to work deeper and deeper until your internal organs are perforated and ripped apart. This actually goes on for two to six months, accompanied by excrutiating pain. 2. Thallium Along with diamond dust, thallium is the most heinous of all poisons. It is completely odorless and tasteless, and fatal in the amount of one gram. The symptoms begin one to three days from the time of ingestion. They include extreme pain, nausea, paresthesias in the extremeties, hematesis (bloody vomiting), bloody diarrhea, loss of hair, convulsions, lethargy, cyanosis, tremors, ataxia, psychological depression, fever, bleeding from the pores, skin swelling, brain damage, and death. Beyond immediate emesis, there is no cure. POISONOUS GASSES 1. Prussic Acid Prussic acid (also known as hydrocyanic acid) is the most toxic form of cyanide, death occuring in a matter of minutes. It is the same substance used by governments in gas chambers. Hydrocyanic acid is formed by the action of strong acids on potassium or sodium cyanide. One could quickly clear out an area by dropping a few ounces of potassium cyanide in a pyrex bowl of acid, and then exiting the scene as quickly as possible. Another method which would offer varying degrees of time delay would be a compact laboratory faucet apparatus slowly dripping small amounts of acid into a beaker partially filled with cyanide salts. 2. Hydrogen Sulfide Hydrogen Sulfide has a toxicity less than prussic acid. This gas is naturally occuring in swamps, marshes, and sewer lines - hence, its name of "sewer gas." Although its characteristic smell of rotten eggs can serve as a warning sign of its presence, the action of this gas on the olfactory nerves is such as to quickly deaden them and make them unaware of any unusual smells. The manufacture of hydrogen sulfide is as simple as prussic acid. It is created by water coming into contact with phosphorous pentasulfide. 3. Phosgene Four out of five of the deaths due to gas in WWI were caused by this very lethal substance. In contrast to prussic acid and hydrogen sulfide, phosgene's action is delayed. A fifteen minute exposure to about .5 mg. per liter of air would be suffered by your target with no ill effects, until about an hour to several hours later, when he will die of pulmonary edema. Phogene has a smell somewhat similar to freshly-mowed hay which, although a strong smell, is not unpleasant. Phosgene is manufactured by the heating or flame exposure of carbon tetrachloride. With a few gallons of carbon tetrachloride. With a few gallons of carbon tetrachloride, one could sabotage the entire heating system of a rather large building. 4. Phosphine Although an extremely deadly gas, the disagreeable garlic-like odor of this compound makes the prolonged intake of lesser amounts unlikely. Probably the best way to make a hit with phosphine is to saturate the target's house or room with it. The target returns to his/her house or apartment, enters, wonders what the hell is going on, spends half a minute looking for the source, and then opens up a window. By that time, he/she has inhaled enough to suffer a few symptoms and then die. There is no antidote. Phosphine is easy to make. Just drop some pieces of aluminum phosphine in sulfuric acid, or calcium phosphide or zinc phosphide in hydrochloric acid (water can even be substituted for the hydrochloric acid, but the reaction is slower. 5. Arsine A constituent of many of the lethal gases developed at the end of WWI, arsine is one of the deadliest gases known to man. Symptoms may appear in less than an hour to several hours after exposure. Symptoms include nausea, vomiting, and hemolysis. As with phosphine, there is no antidote. The odor is a little less disagreeable than phosphine, somewhat like onions. To make arsine, mix one part powdered zinc with one part powdered metallic arsenic in a paper bag. If you wish to clear out an area, throw this in a vat of concentrated acid. The time it takes for the acid to work through the paper will give you the needed delay. 6. Carbon Monoxide Carbon monoxide offers one of the best ways to kill someone without homicide being suspected. Large numbers of people die each year from exposure to this tasteless, odorless gas. Carbon monoxide kills not only by its strong affinity for hemoglobin (about two hundred times that of oxygen), but also by its tendency to prevent the release of oxygen which is already present in the bloodstream. Carbon monoxide results from the incomplete combustion of hydrocarbons. If possible, you could try modifying the target's car or furnace so that it produces large amounts of this toxin. Probably a better way, though, would be to introduce this gas from an outside source into your target's garage. A short time before the target gets up some morning, fill his garage with carbon monoxide and jam the garage door shut. That morning, the target should exert himself for several minutes on the garage door before he starts to feel strangely tired and cold, and he'll go sit in the car for a few minutes and start it up to get warmer. He'll probably pass out in the driver's seat and slowly die from suffocation. When the coroner diagnoses death from carbon monoxide poisoning, he will of course assume that the source of the carbon monoxide was the running automobile. A fairly simple method of making large amounts of carbon monoxide is to merely heat potassium ferrocyanide with eight to ten times its weight of concentrated sulfuric acid. 7. Nitrogen Dioxide A short exposure to 250-300 parts per million will probably not be noticed, except maybe for a slight pain in the chest. Several hours or several days later, edema will develop, and the target will die. It is made by dropping copper filings into dilute nitric acid. LETHAL DRUGS 1. Heroin As little as 1 gm. of pure heroin will kill anyone. If your target is a heroin addict, this is the perfect choice. If you are "friends" with the target, give him a 100% cut obtained non-locally. 2. Morphine Like heroin, this is an opiate, but it is milder. The lethal dose is about one gram. 3. Codeine This is an opiate, milder still, but still lethal in a one gram dose. 4. Cocaine Heroin is one of the most powerful, most addictive drugs known. It has decreased in popularity in recent years with an increased awareness of what it does to its users. Cocaine, on the other hand, has become popular even in rural America. You probably know many more cocaine users than you do heroin addicts. Although 100% pure heroin is certainly not cheap, it is not nearly as expensive as 100% pure cocaine. Besides, although heroin users aren't likely to notice or care about a change in their drugs, with cocaine users there's a chance of them becoming suspicious. 5. Mescal Beans A psychadelic once used by the Plains Indians, a single well-chewed mescal bean is usually fatal. Mescal beans can be found in southern Texas and Mexico, or it might be possible to have a drug dealer order some for you. 6. Scopolamine Hydrobromide Less than a gram of this strange, extremely potent drug will kill anyone. When used as a psychoactive, one interesting effect is that the user sees himself being attacked by little people. POISONOUS EXPLOSIVE COMPOUNDS 1. Picric Acid About the most lethal of the more common explosives is picric acid, most commonly used as a booster explosive in detonators. One gram will cause nausea, diarrhea, abdominal pain, stupor, convulsions, and finally, death. 2. P.E.T.N. Pentaerythrite tetranitrate is the primary ingredient in prima cord, as well as being used in a number of explosive compositions, including explosive paper. It is also cheap. Toxicity is similar to picric acid. 3. Nitroglycerine Although the lethal dose of nitroglycerine is listed as 2 grams, toxicity begins with a much smaller amount, and anyone who ingests even a tiny amount of this liquid will have a very bad day. 4. Trinitrotoluene The lethal dose of trinitrotoluene is about 2 grams. T.N.T. is also readily absorbed through the skin. 5. Other Explosive Compounds Nitrobenzene is quite toxic and has skinpenetrating properties, but unless you decide to bathe in it, it probably won't kill you. Avoid inhaling the fumes of acetone, anhydrous hydrazine, or strong acids. Potassium permanganate is strongly caustic, and all contact with it should be avoided. R.D.X. is quite toxic, as is copper sulfate. Individuals have survived ingestions of more than two ounces of potassium chlorate, but this substance can still be dangerously toxic. Neither gunpowder or nitrocellulose are that dangerous, but nitromethane and methyl nitrate are, and all contact should be strongly avoided. Inhalation of metal dust causes metal fume fever. METHODS OF DELIVERY 1. Blowguns Blowguns are one method of delivery. They're cheap, silent, and easily obtainable. A nice thing about blowguns is that, with a thin enough needle, someone under the influence of alcohol or drugs won't even be aware that they were hit. Since only so much poison will adhere to a blowgun tip, we recommend roughening it and then using only one of the more virulent poisons, like abrin, botulism, or tetrodoxin. 2. Crossbow Crossbows are an effective tool for the poisoner. The compound bow and the longbow should not be forgotten either. 3. Guns Any hollow-point bullet may be filled with poison and then sealed with glue. With one of these, wounding is the only requirement. You don't have to kill, merely maim. *. DMSO With injection and ingestion, much of a poison's toxicity may be lost due to poor absorption. Some poisons have an inherint ability to penetrate the skin, like T.N.T. or the alcohols. Yet, when mixed with a certain readily available substance called DMSO, almost every poison, except for some of the chemical salts, due to their high molecular weight) may actually be carried through the skin and into the bloodstream. DMSO is the fastest-acting, most efficient carrier substance known to man. DMSO is approved as an over-the-counter drug in about ten states, and the number is increasing. It has been much talked about in recent years as a potential cure or alleviant for afflictions as varied as arthritis, herpes, eye infections, hemorrhoids, dental pain, sinusitis, and a few others. If it is not available over-the-counter in your state, it may be obtained from almost any veterinarian, who use it on race horses. The ways of killing with DMSO are endless. Any place or thing which the target's skin comes into contact with may be sabotaged with a mixture or DMSO and poison. An item as simple as a pencil or a piece of jewelry may thus be made to kill. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Covert Inks ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Currency WEIRD STUFF ON MONEY 1. The Five-Dollar Bill The U.S. Treasury Department denies that there are any secret anticounterfeiting gimmicks in currency artwork. Many people think differently. For some reason, the most popular place people look for anticounterfeiting devices is the picture of the Lincoln Memorial on the back of the five-dollar bill. One thing people see there is the "secret number", 372, written in the bushes to the left of the steps leading up to the Memorial. The 3 has an exaggerated lower stroke; the 7 has a strong downward finishing line. Once you "see" the 372, it's not hard to see it. This number, if it indeed is 372, is too undefined to be used as an anti-counterfeiting device. Elsewhere on the bill are the names of twentysix states. The state names are in two rows. The larger bottom row of names is on the band above the tops of the twelve columns. Directly above each column is a roundish ornament that looks like two intersecting circles. These ornaments separate the eleven state names in this row. From left to right the names read DELAWARE, PENNSYLVANIA, NEW JERSEY, GEORGIA, CONNECTICUT, MASSACHUSETTS, MARYLAND, CAROLINA, HAMPSHIRE, VIRGINIA, NEW YORK. Each letter is less than half a millimeter high. With good lighting and a fresh bill, those with excellent eyesight can just read the names. The outlines of the letters are incomplete because of the small scale. An even finer row of fifteen states appears on the band on the upper, indented part of the Memorial. These names are on the lower, less ornamented section of the upper part, just below the smooth horizontal molding. These names read ARKANSAS, MICHIGAN, FLORIDA, TEXAS, IOWA, WISCONSIN, CALIFORNIA, MINNESOTA, OREGON, KANSAS, WEST VIRGINIA, NEVADA, NEBRASKA, COLORADO, NORTH DAKOTA. These names are virtually impossible to read without a magnifying glass, and with the usual wear and tear of money, some state names might be illegible even with one. These names appear on the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, and any picture of the Memorial must contain them. This may or may not have been intended as an act against counterfeiting. Yet another object of suspicion is the odd shadow on the Memorial steps. The odd shadow is that of the left stair guard and its torchlike ornament, and seems to be greatly longer than it should be. The angle of sunlight can be determined from the shadow of the top of the Memorial, behind the leftmost columns. This odd shadow would be easily duplicated in any counterfeiting process, and so, is just an oddity. 2. The One-Dollar Bill The remarkable part of the one-dollar bill is the Great Seal of the United States (the two circular emblems on the back). Some see evidence in the seal of a Masonic conspiracy. At any rate, the pyramid with the eye above it is an obvious sign of the presence of Freemasonry. (The capped-off pyramid represents the unfinished Temple of Solomon; the eye represents the Grand Architect of the Universe.) George Washington was a Mason, and is honored by American lodges, as are Monroe, Jackson, Polk, Buchanan, Andrew Jackson, Garfield, McKinley, both Roosevelts, Taft, Harding, Truman, and Ford. CURRENCY PAPER The Treasury Department doesn't produce the paper used to print money. The paper's manufacture is contracted out to a private company better known for business stationary, Crane and Company, of Dalton, Massachusetts. The type of currency paper, now used, with the red and blue fibers, was developed by the Treasury Department in conjunction with Crane and Company. It has been in use since 1879. The paper is 75% cotton and 25% linen. Originally, it was 100% linen, then 75%, and then 50%. It is permeated with red and blue fibers. Currency paper has three hidden security features: 1. The paper flouresces under an ultraviolet lamp. 2. The ink is magnetic - not to a degree that can be noticed with a pocket magnet, but enough to be detected by special machines. This is how candy machines, change machines, etc. work. 3. The paper is riddled with tiny, invisible holes. Under a microscope, pinpoints of light shine through. Many counterfeit papers are solid. Money used to be made of clothing. Crane purchased old cotton shirts, hired ragpickers to remove the buttons, and bleached the fabric white. Now most shirts contain polyester, and the dyes don't bleach out. "New rag cuttings" (small squares of new fabric) are the principal raw material of money today. The first step in the production of any rag paper is to convert the rag into pulp. The cuttings of cotton and linen (in a three-to-one ratio) are mixed with water - probably just enough to cover the cloth - and beaten in large machines. Hours later, the mixture is a uniform pulp with no fibers remaining. The blue and red fibers must be added at this stage. If they were added during the beating, the colored fibers would also be reduced to pulp. Examination of the finished paper shows that the fibers are embedded in the paper, not just pasted onto its surfact. So they must be mixed into the pulp before the sheets are formed. The pulp is poured into molds. Paper molds usualyl consist of a wooden frame with a fine wire bottom. They are somewhat larger than the dry, finished sheets to allow for shrinkage. The pulp must be spread evenly in the mold, and the amount of pulp must be gauged to a final dry-sheet thickness in the range of 0.0042 to 0.0045 inch. Excess water drips through the wire mesh, leaving a newly formed sheet in the mold. The damp sheets are probably "couched" as most fine paper is - carefully transferred to wool mats or "felts." The sheets and felts are sandwiched together and squeezed in a press to remove further water. The next step is loft drying, to which currency paper owes much of its durability. The sheets are peeled from the felts and placed on a large screen, the loft, to dry. The faster paper dries, the stronger it becomes; the loft allows it to dry from both sides at once. Paper to be used for printing must be "sized." Sizing prevents the ink from soaking in and spreading out. Currency paper, then, obviously is well sized to take the fine engraving. The best sizing material, and the one that paper chemists agree is used for U.S. currency, is glue. Glue sizing is actually a gelatin made by boiling the hoofs, ears, and other unused parts of slaughtered livestock. It is sold in a dry, flaky form and dissolved in water to yield a thin sizing bath. Dry sheets are immersed in the bath, removed, pressed, and dried. The exceptional uniformity of currency paper betrays the final step in its manufacture. No matter how carefully the pulp is spread in the molds, even thickness is impossible to ensure without plate finishing. In this step the sheets are sandwiched between polished metal plates. Heavy rollers compress the sandwiched sheets under great pressure. This finishing is nearly impossible to duplicate with makeshift equipment. High-pressure rollers are expensive machines. (In contrast, all the steps up to plate finishing can be duplicated by amature papermakers at home.) The thickness of counterfeit paper usually varies outside the Treasury Department's allowances. The finished sheets are cut to measure 53.5 by 63.0 centimeters, just enough for thirty-two bills, eight down and four across. Glossary absorption - The property in paper which causes it to take up liquids. In photography, it refers to the suppression of light through filters. anti-halation - A coating applied to the back of graphic arts film that prevents blurring caused by excess light. aperture - The amount of lens opening on a camera, expressed as f-stop numbers. black and white - A one-color original, as opposed in multi-color. blanket - The rubber sheet that is wrapped around the blanket cylinder in offset printing. Ink is first transferred from the plate to the blanket, then from the blanket to the paper. blowers - Tiny tubes attached to the sides of a paper feeding system that separate the sheets with a blast of air. burn - Another term for exposure. coated paper = Paper with a coating on the surface that makes it smooth. coating - Varnish or lacquer applied over a printed surface to protect it. color filter - A colored film used in graphic arts photography to prevent reproduction of certain colors while aiding reproduction of others. contact print - A photographic print made from a negative in contact with photographic paper or plates. contact screen - A screen consisting of various grades of dot patterns used in making halftones. continuous tone - Refers to an original photograph which has not been screened and contains tones graduating from white to black. contrast - The difference between light and dark areas of an image. copy - Another term for original artwork. copyboard - The part of a graphic arts camera that holds the artwork to be printed. cylinder - One of a series of drums on a printing press, i.e.: blanket cylinder, plate cylinder, etc. dampeners - On a printing press, the rollers that distribute a dampening solution to the plate. dampening system - The mechanism by which dampening solution is transferred to the printing plate. delivery system - Stacks paper as it comes off the printing press. density - A measure of the relative blackening of photographic images. developer - Used in photography after an exposure to make the images visible. distributing rollers - The rollers that transfer ink from the inkwell to the printing plate. doctor blade - On a gravure printing press, the doctor blade wipes excess ink off the plate. drop-out = Portions of the original art that do not reproduce, often intentionally. doctor roller - The roller in both inking and dampening systems that alternates between the fountain and the distribution rollers. emulsion side - The side of a sheet of film coated with silver halide emulsion that should face the light source when making an exposure. engraving - The process by which impressions are etched into an intaglio printing plate. etch - To carve an image into a plate using photochemical processes. exposure - The process in graphic arts photography when film or plates are exposed to a light source. "f" stops - The stops used to control the lens opening, or "aperture" on the graphic arts camera. face - Also called "portrait", this refers to the front side of a piece of U.S. currency. Federal Reserve seal - The round seal with a letter in the center printed in black ink on the front of U.S. currency. It indicated the Federal Reserve Bank that issued the note. feed system - The parts of a printing press that deliver the paper to the printing mechanism. filling in - Happens when ink fills in the dots or thin lines of a printed piece. film - Graphic arts film used in process cameras. filter - A piece of film inserted between the lens of a graphic arts camera and the original copy being photographed. See "color filter". fix solution - A chemical solution used in processing graphic arts film that removes clouded, milky-colored areas from the film. flat surface printing - A method of printing using a flat plate. focal length - A measure of the size of a graphic arts camera. When reproducing at 100%, the original copy should be four times the focal length away from the camera lens. form rollers - The inking or dampening rollers that come in contact with the plate during printing. fountain solution - A mixture of chemicals used to dampen the plate and keep non-image areas from accepting ink. generation - Each succeeding stage or reproduction from the original copy. graphic arts camera - A camera specially manufactured for the printing trade used in the making of stats, contacts, positives, negatives, and plates. gravure - A method of printing that uses intaglio plates. gray scale - A strip of gray tones in 10% intervals from white to black, placed next to original artwork during graphic arts photography to measure the range of contrast. greenback - U.S. currency printed with green ink on the back. grippers - Metal fingers that grab the paper from the feed system and pull it into the printing mechanism of a press. guides - Part of the paper feed mechanism on a printing press that keeps the paper in alignment as it is delivered to the cylinders. halation - A blurred effect in a photographic reproduction. halftone - The black and white rendition of a continuous tone photograph reproduced using a contact screen. hard dot - see soft dot. highlight - The lightest parts of a halftone photograph. hypo - A chemical used to fix the image on photographic film after developing. image - In printing, the part of a page that has ink on it. image transfer - A general term for the methods used to transfer an image from printing plate to paper. impression - The pressure between image cylinder, or plate, and paper. impression cylinder - The cylinder on the unprinted side of a sheet as it passes through a press. ink fountain - Stores ink and releases it to inking rollers during printing. intaglio - A printing method that uses a plate engraved with lines that carry the ink. jog - To align sheets of paper into a neat pile. laser - A bean of pure light used to produce images from electronic impulses. laser platemaking - Using lasers to scan original copy or expose plates. letterpress - A type of printing press, and a method of printing, that uses plates where the image area is raised above the surface of the plate. light table - Used in a paste-up, a light table typically has a light source underneath a sheet of translucent glass. line copy - Any original artwork that can be reproduced without using a halftone screen. lithography - The complete offset printing process, from negative preparation to completed printed product. loupe - A magnifying glass used by printers. magnetic ink - An ink which contains the liquid metal that is used as a security feature in the printing of U.S. currency. makeready - All the work done to a press prior to printing: adjusting feed mechanism, putting ink in the fountain, etc. mask - Material used to block light from non-image areas of the printing plate during exposure. masking sheets - Used in stripping, masking sheets are large pieces of paper, usually orange in color and ruled, that negatives or film are attached to. masking tape - A cellophane tape, usually dark red in color, that is used for stripping. molleton - A cotton fabric wrapped around the dampening rollers of an offset printing press. negative - Photographic film containing a reverse image of the original work: image areas are clear, non-image areas are black. non-image area - The area of a negative or printing plate that corresponds to the blank areas of the original artwork. numbering machine - In printing, a mechanical device consisting of a series of numbers that ascends in value with each impression. offset - Printing technique using a blanket cylinder to transfer the image from printing plate to paper. opacity - A measure of the amount of "showthrough" from the printed side of a sheet of paper to the opposite side. opaque - The paint used to block out unwanted clear areas from a negative prior to making the plate. original - The original piece of artwork used as the master in printing. orthochromatic - Film sensitive to a narrow range of colors. panchromatic - Film sensative to all visible colors. papercutter - In printing, usually a large metal cutter with a blade and clamping mechanism. passing - The process of exchanging counterfeit currency for legitimate currency. Often involves the purchase of goods. pH - A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of solutions. A pH of 7 is neutral. Lower values are acidic and higher values are alkaline. planography - Any of several methods of printing that use a flat plate. plate - In printing, the surface that contains the image (ink) that will be transferred to the blanket or directly to the paper. plate cylinder - The cylinder on a press that carries the plate. plate numbers - On U.S. currency, small numbers on the front and back of each bill that denote the printing plate used. platemaking - The process of making a printing plate. portrait - The front side of a piece of U.S. currency, so called because they feature the portrait of a president. Also called the "face" of the bill. positive - Photographic film containing a correct image of the original artwork: image areas are dark, non-image areas are light. press - A printing machine. press proofs - A test printing from a fully prepared press used to spot problems, such as ink color needing adjustment. process camera - Another name for the graphic arts camera. proof - A test or trial impression taken from a printing plate. register - To place two images, usually of different colors, in exact alignment. safelight - A darkroom lamp used to prevent unwanted exposure of films. scanner - An electronic device used in making color separations. serial number - A series of numbers on U.S. currency that identifies each individual bill. shadow - The darkest parts of a photograph, the largest dots in a halftone. sheet-fed - A system of delivering paper into a printing press that advances one sheet at a time. show-through - Ability to see a printed image through the reverse side of the paper under normal lighting. soft dot - Fuzziness around the edges of a halftone dot, as opposed to "hard dot" which indicated a sharp focus. spectrum - The complete range of visible light. stack - The pile of paper from which a printing press is fed. stop bath - A chemical solution used in processing graphic arts film that prevents further developing. stripping - Positioning negatives on a masking sheet in preparation of making a plate. suction cups - Tiny rubber cups that pick up the top sheet off the paper stack and feed it into the printing press. Treasury seal - A round seal printed in green ink on the front of U.S. currency. two-sheet detector - Part of the feed mechanism on a printing press that prevents feeding two sheets simultaneously. vacuum - A powerful suction used in platemakers and graphic arts cameras that holds materials in place. varnish - A coating applied to a printed sheet for protection and/or appearance. washup - The process of completely cleaning a press, including removal of all ink from fountain, rollers and plate. weight - A term referring to the thickness of paper. wraparound plate - An engraved plate wrapped around the plate cylinder instead of the flat plate usually used with offset printing. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Credit Cards ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ People To Contact ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Assassination Today, there is a lack of justice in our society. The man who rapes your daughter or threatens to kill his wife may or may not have justice dealt to him. He may get away with it, absolutely unaffected. And worst of all, he goes free, to possibly do it again. Why should this happen? When justice is not done, and you know it must be done, you might have to take matters into your own hands. Why not do it right? ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Some good reference materials to have: A Local City Directory - If at all possible, get one of these to keep at home. If it is not possible, they should be available in the reference or information section of the local library. If you have partial information on a mark (target), you can usually get the rest without leaving the comfort of your own home. These directories are broken down into three categories. Alphabetical by name - Lists name, wife's name, occupations and employers, street address, telephone number and others that are living in the home. Street Address - Lists alphabetically by street and then numerically by house number. If you know the mark's address, you can also find out who lives next door, the type of neighborhood, vacant lots, business and so on, all according to the information that was available when the directory was compiled. Phone Numbers - If all you have is a phone number, look it up in the numerical listing. Then go to the Alphabetical and Address sections to gather the rest of the information. Auto Tag Department, County Courthouse - Very often the books are left out for public use. Look up the mark by last name or tag number (license plate #) for address. Telephone Directories - This is an obvious source of information. Be sure to have both a yellow pages and a white pages. The yellow pages will help you locate equipment, and you can get them for other areas should you not want to buy equipment locally. Maps - A local city map is a must for planning routes, if you are not familiar with the road systems. And of course, a city map for any out-of-town job would be necessary. Travel Arrangements - You should find out as much as possible, as SOON as possible, about all the various modes of transportation available for out-of-town jobs. Find out the necessary identification, advance scheduling requirements, and time factors involved. File this information away for later use. You also might want to stop by your local travel agent to see what can be done for you. You might be surprised by all the services they'll perform for you. And they'll make all the needed arrangements to your specifications, and the airline will pay their fee. Shipping and Routing - You can take a plane under an assumed identity and arrive at your destination in a matter of a few short hours. But how would you get your weapons to the jobsite? You'd better start checking into various methods of shipping. The U.S. Postal service offers Express Mail to most major cities, and the main post office is generally located very near the airport. By taking apart the weapons and double packing as a precautionary measure, you can send your tools to yourself under an assumed name (post office to post office) and have them waiting for pickup the next morning. Airport mail is not x-rayed. If time is not a factor, check into bus line, common carrier, or U.P.S. rates and delivery schedules. Law Enforcement Handbook - The Law Enforcement Handbook for your state should be available through any college bookstore where law enforcment courses are taught. If not, try a bookstore. By all means, learn everything you can about the law and how it works and how it applies to you. Learn what constitutes a good arrest and what abuses or mistakes can make an otherwise arrest null and void. Magazines - Soldier of Fortune, gun and knife magazines, and tabloids are just a few of the possible sources you can use to find interesting and useful information and companies. Try to find things like ads that offer Fake ID's, gadgets, nontraceable mailing addresses, etc. Popular Mechanics and Popular Science are great for tools and devices. Locating Your Mark - An obliging postal clerk will inform you of the several ways of tracking down the last known address of anyone you choose to locate as a function of the Freedom of Information Act. One way is to send $1 and a written request addressed to the postmaster of the mark's last known location. A Freedom of Information Act form will be returned to you within a matter of days giving the Postal Service's most current update. Or you can send an empty envelope to the mark's last known address with your return address in the upper left hand corner. Under your address should appear this notation in bold letters: DO NOT FORWARD ADDRESS CORRECTION REQUESTED Within a few days your envelope will be returned with the updated information. The fee is twenty-five cents. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Basic Equipment Checklist - WEAPONS: ------------------------------------------------------------ AR-7 Rifle (or any breakdown type) 3-6 Powered Scope Disposable Rifle Silencer Two Extra 15 or 30 shot rifle clips 22 Ruger Mark I or Mark II Pistol (or any fixed barrel type) Disposable Pistol Silencer Shoulder Holster Extra Pistol Clip The AR-7 Rifle is recommended because it is both inexpensive and accurate. The barrel breaks down for storage inside the stock with the clip. It is lightweight and easy to carry or conceal when disassembled. The rifle has a ridge on top that will easily accept a scope, even though it is not cut for one. Put the scope in place, tighten it down, then sight it in. After sighting in, scratch a mark behind each scope clamp to allow remounting of the scope without resighting each time. A three to six powered scope is recommended to insure accuracy at up to sixty-five yards. When braced, eight to fifteen shots should cover a four-inch pattern area with no difficulty. Get two extra fifteen or thirty shot clips from your local gun dealer or order through one of the many gun-related magazines. But never load these clips to their full capacity, since they tend to jam when fully loaded. When loading the clip before the hit, be sure to wipe each bullet to remove fingerprints, or spray with WD-40 or some other oil. The AR-7 has a serial number stamped on the case, just above the clip port. This number should be completely drilled out. The hole that is left will be unsightly but will not interfere with the working mechanism of the gun or the clip feed. The serial number can remain on the gun until you prepare it for use in a hit. After the job is completed, you will be disposing of the gun, so you do not want any serial number available if, perhaps, some of the discarded gun parts are discovered. If the serial number is on the barrel of your gun, grinding deeply enough to remove it may weaken the barrel to the point that the gun could explode in your face when fired. To make these numbers untraceable, use a hammer and chisel or a numbering set purchased from the hardware store to stamp them out or make them illegible. Make sure your blows go as deep as or a little deeper than the existing numbers. Then grind the serial number off SLIGHTLY. This method will keep the true serial number from being raised in any acid tests it the part is found. The recommended handgun is the fixed barrel Ruger Mark I or Mark II, again because it is inexpensive and reliable. This gun has a ten shot clip that seldom jams if kept clean. The gun can easily be broken down in the field, which helps when disposing of it after its use. Extra clips are a must for both the rifle and the pistol and should be carried as a precautionary measure. Hollow-point bullets are recommended because they deform on impact, making them nontraceable. As an added precaution, you can fill the hollows with liquid poison to insure success of your operation. Using a handheld one-eight-inch drill bit, enlarge the hollow-point openings. Fill the hollows with the liquid poison of your choice, then seal with a drop of melted wax. To test your guns and ammunition, set up a sheet of quarter-inch plywood at distances of two to seven yards maximum for your pistol, and twenty to sixty yards maximum for your rifle. Check for penetration of bullets at each range. Quarter-inch plywood is only a little stronger than the human skull. Find the maximum range for both your rifle and your pistol. Also test your weapons under various weather conditions to determine how wind, rain, and snow can affect your range and accuracy. Close kills are by far preferred to shots fired from a long distance. You will need to know beyond any doubt that the desired result has been achieved. When using a small calibur weapon like a 22, it is best to shoot from a distance of three to six feet. You will not want to be at point-blank range to avoid having the victim's blood splatter all over you or your clothing. At least three shots should be fired to ensure quick and sure death. If you must do your shooting from a distance, use a rifle with a good scope and silencer and aim for the head - preferably the eyesockets if possible (you are a sharpshooter). Many people have been shot repeatedly, even in the head, and lived. Close kills let you determine immediately if you have successfully killed the victim. Distant shots may mean you won't find out until it may be too late. In either case, as soon as possible, run a rat-tail file or wire cleaning brush down the bore of the gun to change the ballistic markings. Do this even though you intend to get rid of the crime weapon. And make sure you carry away and discard all shells that were ejected as the shots were fired. If, for some reason, you can't bear to part with your weapon, there are five parts that require IMMEDIATE alteration, and this alteration can only be made once in the life of the gun. Using a rat-tail file, alter the gun barrel, the shell chamber, the loading ramp, the firing pin and the ejector pin. Each one of these items leaves its own definite mark and impression on the shell casing, which, if any shells happened to be left behind, can be matched up to the gun under a microscope in the police laboratory. When using the file, make sure that you scrape the part of each listed item where it makes contact with the shell. There is almost no reason that a gun should not be disposable. If a weapon is more important to you than freedom, wake the fuck up. An important subject is where to find weapons for a hit. You can often pick up throwaways from people who advertise in classified sections of newspapers, magazines, etc. Just be sure that any weapon you purchase for a hit cannot be traced back to you through the owner. Gun-shows offer a wide variety of tools and weapons that might be useful. Usually no registration is required. And with so many dealers trying to get your business, prices may be competitive. Flea Markets, private gun collectors, veterans who hoard and stash, and bargain hunter magazines are other possibilities. If you MUST obtain a weapon through legal channels (signing the registration, etc.), it might be wise to pay some beggar or wino ten or twenty AMMUNITION: ------------------------------------------------------------ Hollow-point Bullets Liquid Poison Wax ACCESSORIES: ------------------------------------------------------------ Double-Edged Knife with Six-Inch Blade (Ex. Gerber Mark II) Disposable Rubber or Surgical Gloves (Flesh Tone Preferred) Handcuffs Ski Mask or Stocking Mask Duffle Bag with Lock ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Interception ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Booze ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Blowguns ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ Safecracking ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ THE END Coming soon: Cable TV, Flamethrowers, Blowguns, Special Detonators, Lockpicking, Safecracking, and more!