YEAR I VOLUME I ISSUE I January MM ®39th Iowa ------------------------------------------------------------------- NEW YEAR... NEW MILLENNIUM... AND NEW LOCATION FOR OUT MEETINGSWe have a new location where to meet for our monthly meetings. CaptJoejoe met with the Sportmen Club to see the possibility of using their building for our monthly meetings. They accepted with the condition of paying a fee of 25 dollars every time we use the building. We will need to keep the premises as clean as they were when we get there. Now, more than ever is very important that all of us pay our dues on time. Included is a map so you can get to the new building... LET US KEEP THE FIRE BURNINGWe as a club want to grow and tell others the message of Civil War Reenacting. Let us remember that in our meetings we might have new people wanting to learn and be a part of our Organization. We the ones with experience need to guide them and make them feel comfortable in our organization. That will make us number ONE. UNDERSTANDING THE CIVIL WARYou might be asked to prepare a simple report of a determined subject so the new members and the people interested in joining the club can learn more and can understand why we are here and what is the history behind the Civil War. TIME TO WORK TOGETHERIt is time to get closer and work together so our activities can be successful. We need to elect the Board of Officers. If there is a job you can do, don't wait to be nominated by others, take a fast step and volunteer; that will make our job easier. TALKING ABOUT MONEYIn our next meeting we will talk about the income and expenses we have had so far. The dues are important and needed. I AM HERE... NOW WHAT??There are several Committees that we need to organize in order to succeed. We are hosting two reenactments this year. Some of the Committees needed are; *Battlefield Committee *Dance, musical and entertainment Committee *Religious services *Period Candle light tour *Other as needed ALWAYS INNOVATINGThis is great and new to our Club. CENTRAL IOWA VICTORIAN GROUP. The main goal is to provide an alternative to military impressions in our organization. There are several roles included that you might want to discover and relive Nurses and medical impressions Ladies' Aide Society and Relief Clergy and religious impressions (catholic, protestant, Jewish) Artisans and craftmen Period vendor and suttlers. WE NEED YOUR COOPERATIONIf there is any changes in address please let us know. We want to have our records as accurate as we can. But the most important thing... Do what you love but Love what you do. ROSTER OF MILITARY PERSONNELPVT Joseph Leto PVT Sonia Baez PVT Dylan McGee PVT Jeremy Ferguson PVT Matt Harker PVT Drew James PVT Alex James PVT John Hornback PVT Jeff Dodd CENTRAL IOWA VICTORIAN GROUPSue Becker Sarah Hornback Katie Haimes Sheryl Leto Kelly Wilkins Ginger McGee Kristy Wilkins 39th IOWA HOME PAGE http://www.angelfire.com/ia/captjoejoeThe 39th of Iowa infantry Home page, now has the biggest and best Iowa's Civil War Web site on the internet. Check it out. Members please sign the guest book, and thanks a million. Captjoejoe@uswest.net UPCOMING EVENTS 2000 APRIL 2000 7th ,8th and 9th Winterset Jojo Leto 39th of Iowa 29th- 31st Keokuk Chamber of Commerce 1-800-383-1219 MAY 2000 19th, 20th, 21st Clinton Chamber of Commerce 1-800-383-1219 JUNE 16th, 17th 18th, 2000 WILSONS CREEK SEPTEMBER 2000 22nd, 23rd, 24th Creston Oj Fargo - 4th Iowa 515-782-8625 OCTOBER 2000 13th, 14th, 15th Winterset Jojo Leto 39th of Iowa HISTORY OF THE 39TH IOWA INFANTRY39th Regiment Infantry Organized at Des Moines and Davenport and mustered in November 24th, 1862. Moved to Cairo, Illinois, December 12-14; thence to Columbus, Kentucky, December 16. Attached to 3rd Brigade, District of Corinth, 17th Army Corps, Dept of Tennessee, to January, 1863. 3rd brigade, District of Corinth, 16th Army Corps, to March, 1863. 3rd Brigade, 2nd division, 16th Army Corps, to September, 1864. 3rd Brigade, 4th Division, 15th Army Corps, to August, 1865. INSCRIPTION IN OUR FLAGBattle honors, on the 39th ‘s National Flag Thirty ninth Iowa Volunteer Infantry Regiment. Parker's Cross Roads, Tennessee, 1862; Cherokee Station, Alabama, 1863; Town Creek, Alabama, 1863; Snake Creek Gap, Georgia, 1864; Lay's Ferry, Georgia, 1864; Altoona, Geogia, 1864; Columbia, South Carolina, 1865; Bentonville, North Carolina, 1865. AGENDA for January 9th, 2000 5:00-5:30 Central Iowa Victorians Meetings and Reports 5:30-6:00 Infantry Drill and Muster 6:00-6:30 General Meeting and reports 6:30-7:00 Potluck and parlor games Please Bring a Covered Dish And Beverage For The Potluck Dinner after the Meeting. Thank you very much!
How To Make an Authentic Cartridge By David Stieghan This article originally appeared in the April, 1994 issue of Camp Chase Gazette ( Vol. XXI, No. 5 ) This article is an attempt to aid the modern living historian in making proper blanks to simulate original cartridges. The instructions in this particular article are to aid in making of blanks for our simulations, adhering mainly to the original appearance of the round. Before starting, one must be careful to obtain the proper materials. This first consideration is the "former", or dowel rod. This simple original rule for size still holds; the "former" should be the size of the ball for smoothbores (spherical ball) or the size of the bore for rifles, rifled muskets, or rifle muskets (elongated balls) (See note 1). Dowels may be swelled to the proper size by wrapping with paper or tape, or reduced from 5/8" or 7/8" by sanding. One end of the "former" should be roughly shaped to imitate the ball (round or cone shaped) just like the originals. The other end should be concave, but this is only necessary when making live smoothbore ammunition. Common brown wrapping paper was, and is the proper material for the tubes. A few guidelines should be used, however. The paper should be strong, thin, with a slightly glossy appearance. Mailing paper, which comes in 30" tubes, is the closest that may be found today; Dennison Craft Paper for example. Grocery sack paper will not do, as it is too thick, too weak, will not fold well, and gets "fuzzy" on the outside very quickly. (See note 2) Almost all musket ammunition used during the war was tied with flax thread. (See note 3) Through close examination of numerous originals, flax thread seems to predominate, though cotton thread may have seen limited use. Check local shoe or leather repair shops for flax thread. Penn's Hand Shoe Thread is one example of many. You would be surprised how common flax thread still is. If flax thread is unavailable, unbleached or natural cotton thread could be used (Cotton Quilting Thread is probably the closest). The ball can best be simulated with cotton balls. They can be bought cheaply in large quantities. Get the small or regular sizes rather than the enormous facial sizes. Two to four balls, depending on the projectile, will do well. Toilet paper, 3 to 5 sheets, may also be used, but it doesn't work as well and doesn't make the cartridge look authentic. Optional items include: a pair of scissors, a needle and a choking string. These items will be discussed when appropriate. The following description of fabrication is written for a right hander. Lefties may of course, reverse the instructions. First place the "former" (dowel rod) in the right hand and with the outer wrapper trapezoid in the left hand (or place flat on the table) 1/2" or 5/8" from the end of the longest side (see Figure 1) (see note 4). Turn the paper around the dowel once, and check to make sure the paper is going on tightly. Finish rolling on the paper, and hold the tube and dowel firmly in the left hand with the thumb extended and holding down the end of the "point" (see "X" on Figure 1). The tube can be choked two ways; the original way, with a choking string and toggle, or by twisting. The choking string may be "...made by twisting 4 or 5 cartridge threads; fastened to the edge of the table, at the right hand of the workman." (See note 5.) The choking string is given one turn around the projecting end of the cylinder between the top of the "former" and the fingertip. Before removing the fingertip, use it to fold down the projecting paper inside-out, flat upon the top of the "former" (see Figures 1 and 2). Remove choking string. Next place about an inch of the cartridge thread under the extended left thumb leading toward the choked end. Take two complete turns around the choked "neck" with the string, carefully pull taut, and tie in a single half hitch (overhand knot, or, the first half of a square knot or a shoe knot). If you are making an elongated ball cartridge (minie-ball), cut the thread, if any other type, go to the next step. If the tube is to be choked by twisting, do so in a careful manner in a clockwise direction, after smashing the top of the extended tube flat (in the direction of the point to keep the paper from unrolling). Tie the same as the choked method. Using a fingernail, knife, scissors tip, or needle, separate the flattened twisted part beyond the choke first by untwisting and dividing the sheets. Push up the "former" against the thumb or you may strike the end on a table to flatten the tied end. Next, remove the "former", insert the substance selected to simulate the projectile. (Note: One cotton ball or three half sheets of toilet paper balled up and tied with a half hitch above can be used to simulate the buck in buck and ball, or repeated 4 to 5 times, depending on use in .69 caliber smoothbore or rifled muskets respectively, to simulate buckshot. Reinsert "former" and ram home tightly to produce the fake bullet(s). Spherical ball tubes should then be slightly pinched between the wad and the "former". Give the long end of the string one clockwise turn in the pinched area close to the ball, and re-insert through the loop formed by the string coming down from the choke. Push the "former" firmly against the bottom of the wad and pull the thread tight around the tube in the pinched area. This turn should only slightly indent the paper, because its only purpose is to secure the ball and if choked too tightly, it will weaken the tube. After pulling the string down the axis of the rod away from the wad, to tighten, take the thread and place it counter-clockwise in the "trough" over the string between the wad and the "former" to where the string comes down from the choke on top of the ball. (This double, as opposed to single, turn last mentioned is not spelled out in the Ordnance Manuals of 1840, 1849, or 1861, but an examination of all original specimens made circa. 1822 to 1865, will show this is the actual method.) (See note 6) Tie this long end with two half hitches on the two turns between the wad and "former" just counter-clockwise past the thread leading down from the top choke. A needle threaded on a long piece of cartridge string makes it much easier to tie this last knot. Cut the remaining string and remove the "former". Insert the proper charge (normally 60 grains) in the open end of the tube. Pinch the empty remaining tube shut between the forefinger and thumb and shake vigorously while squeezing down further on the trapped powder (much like prior to opening a Kool-Aid package!). Fold over the pinched end of the tube pressing down on the powder and strike or smash this end flat on a table. The side with the "slant" of the trapezoid showing should be up. This, is the tricky part - holding the extension to the right, fold down the top "third" towards the body just over to the halfway point. Then fold the bottom "third" up to cover the other part, reducing the pinched tube extension to less than half of its original width. Carefully fold this "tail" over the end of the cylinder and fold down along the other side of the tube. It is best to again press this bottom part firmly on a flat surface to sharpen the creases. Also, pinch back the "tail" as it begins to lay along the tube so that it will remain flush on the cartridge. Good paper will allow very flat and secure folds, as per the originals. The finished tube should be strong, rigid, and must not flex at all. The cartridge is now ready to bundle. Footnotes: Note 1 - Beginning in 1845, and through the end of the Civil War, all musket balls and most buckshot were produced bv pressure (compression) rather/instead of casting, and the .69 caliber musket ball diameter was then increased from .640 to .650. Though the 1861 Ordnance Manual states that .58 caliber cartridges were to use a .5775 diameter ball, battlefield experience showed that this was insufficient windage, and by 1864, the Federal arsenals were producing .58 ammunition with .571 ball to interchange with Enfields. Lewis pp. 112-115, 117-118, 124, 130-131, 157-158, 189, 219-221, 224-225.
I found for hard tack bread!!YUMMI YUMMI ENJOY Just don't break any teeth trying it out!! :"D
This bread, although, a nothingness bread with so little taste, was the means of survival for many during the early days of our country. Hunters, explorers, and travelers carried it in their grub sacks during the settlement of our country. Later the miners carried it to California, Colorado, and the Black Hills upon the discovery of gold and silver. During the Civil War it was one of the only foods available in the soldier's haversack and sustained them through many battles.
Recipe for the Preparation of Hard Tack by Pioneer Cooks:
They mixed flour, water and salt and kneaded it into a thick dough until it was too stiff for them to work anymore flour into the mass by hand. Then they would scrub their stoops clean, sprinkle it with flour, put the dough on to it, and continue ato pound more flour into it with flat side of a broad axe or sledge hammer; when the dough was very stiff they would beat it into a slab 1/2 inch thick and bake it, then store it away in cloth sacks. A piece could be used for soup crackers. Wrapped in a wet cloth in the morning and placed in a stoneware crock and by evening it had softened and was used as bread; or they could have poured boiling water on it , then put molasses or honey on it and served it as a pudding by the evening campfire.
Recipe for the Modern Day Preparation of Hard Tack
Fill a mixing bowl 3/4 full of flour. Add salt and cold water until dough no longer sticks to your hands. Roll about 1/2 inch thick, and cut into strips about 1 1/2 inches by 4 inches. Bake in 300 degree oven at least one hour, or until all the moisture is baked out.
Map to our meeting location in Winterset.
by Capt JoJo Leto 39th Ia Infantry.
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