Ptychozoons are native to the forests of Southeast Asia. They are relatively hardy geckos and, although nocturnal, provide collectors hours of daytime viewing. Flying geckos are named such because of the side skin flaps (normally folded against the lizard’s torso) that can be extended when the gecko leaps from branch to branch. The flaps help the gecko to “float” when it must flee predators or attack prey. In the captive environment, however, my flying geckos chase each other and jump from the side of the tank to a shallow water tray --splat-- in a territorial game of cat and mouse.
I have six ptychozoons in a 20g tall aquarium with a screen top. Some may say that six is too many for a 20g tank... That may be true, but my little ptychs seem to get along just fine -- as long as there is no competition for food. I have a 100watt bulb and a uv light in a ballast on a timer (12-14hr cycle). Regular top soil, covered by ground-cover moss, is my substrate. Large pieces of bark and a part of a hollow log provide ample hiding spots. A shallow dish (actually, a green tupperware lid) provides water -- mostly for the crickets. The geckos mainly drink from the sides of the terrarium when I mist them (3-4 times daily). I feed them whatever I can... sometimes crickets and mealworms from the bait store, sometimes “grass litter” I scoop up in the yard with a net. Earthworms are a favorite but they make quite a mess on the glass on the way out if you know what I mean... Everything I do feed them is dusted with rep-cal vitamin supplements. How much they’ll eat on any given day is up to them. I just try to keep the ground moving with potential prey. Since they are nocturnal animals, feeding usually takes place when the timer kicks off the lights... that’s when the camoflagued pieces of bark get active.
...and if you want some more info, as I did when I first got my ptychs, here is an excerpt from a “professional” site...
(The following information is taken from petsmart.com)
General Info: Length up to 8" Contrary to their name, flying geckos cannot actually fly. Instead, when disturbed, flying geckos can glide short distances to safety. As with most arboreal (tree dwelling) geckos, it is best not to handle these geckos frequently. Not only are they fast, their skin is sensitive and can be damaged easily. Children should only handle these geckos in the company of an adult. These geckos are excellent display reptiles for terrariums. Temperature/Humidity: Ideal daytime temperature for flying geckos should range between 75 and 80 degrees. Additionally, a basking lamp should be used on one end of the enclosure to maintain a local temperature of 85-95 degrees. Nighttime temperature should remain between 70 and 75 degrees. The humidity for these geckos should be maintained at 75 percent or higher. Lighting: Most lizards and geckos require ultraviolet lighting to maintain good health. Ultraviolet lighting is recommended for 12 hours per day. The use of a timer will assist in maintaining an accurate schedule of light periods. Feeding/Watering: Flying geckos do well on a diet consisting of a variety of vitamin/calcium dusted insects such as crickets, mealworms and waxworms. A shallow water bowl should be provided and changed daily. Daily misting of the habitat will help maintain the humidity level. Adult flying geckos should be fed 3-4 times per week, some juveniles can be fed twice daily during their growing period. Habitat/Housing: Successful permanent maintenance requires a 15-20 gallon tall terrarium. A screen lid is essential for proper air exchange. The enclosure must include a basking area with several climbing branches, a suitable hiding area, and a "cool" area to allow for thermoregulation. Cork bark is an excellent item to use with all geckos. The bark can be "layered" to allow the gecko many hiding and foraging areas. Artificial and natural plants also help to create a natural look. When two or more geckos are desired, it is imperative that daily observations are made to avoid aggressive behavior. If aggression is noted, one or more reptiles may have to be permanently removed from the enclosure. Substrate (Bedding): Bed-A-Beast is an ideal substrate for flying gecko terrariums.
For some good pics of ptychozoons in action, take a gander at this site... http://members.aol.com/msnick2/FlyingG.html
