Corally C4 Building Tips
The C4 goes together without much fuss if you take your time. The instructions aren't the best but they do serve their perpose. There are somethings that you can do to save yourself some time later.
BEARING PLAY: Check to see if there is any play where the bearings fit on the car. Some places to check are the lay shaft, the center steering arm, and the hub bearings. I have seen a couple of different fixes for these problems but using CA to close up gaps seems to be the easiest. For the layshaft put a small amount of CA on the end of the shaft and allow it to dry. Next you want to sand down the CA until it fits nice and snug into the bearing. This works for all of the loose bearing problems. Just make sure not to get to crazy with the CA and take your time. The last thing you want to do is get CA in your bearings. From what I understand the newer C4 kits have addressed these problems, but if not start here and if you have any problems E-mail me.
DIFFERENTIAL: The diffs work pretty good, but I found that if you replace the Corally insides for Yokomo innards the diff is a little smoother and last a lot longer between rebuilds. The Yokomo stuff also allows you to tighten the diff down without worrying about destroying anything. Just buy a Yokomo diff rebuild kit and replace the Corally stuff. Its pretty direct, but make sure to put the spring in after the thrust bearings or they will fall out the little hole in the outdrives.
SHOCKS: The shocks work and I don't have much to say about them except they tend to leak a bit. This is not completely necissary but it helps the shocks to replace the orange o-rings that Corally includes with MIP blue o-rings.
SERVO: The servo mounts hold the servo securely but depending on what servo you use the servo will hang off the edge of the chassis. This position allows the servo to be hit in a side collision. I use the mounts as well as servo tape. It just gives me a little more confidence that the servo won't come loose in the middle of race.
BELT TENSIONER: When the car is full assembled the screw for the front belt tensioner is blocked behind the spur gear. One way to deal with this is to do the obvious and remove the spur gear to adjust belt tension or you can replace the screw with a screw that has a hole drilled through the head. If you go to your LHS you should be able to find a associated TC3 screw set that has screws like this. They drill the screws for body clips and serve this purpose quite fine.
