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Classic South Shore Summer

August 2002


I actually got into town to surf twice this week (! )... and both times were just lovely. No big stuff ... just the classic, peaky, glassy, crystal clear, waist-to-chest high waves ... some nice longer rides ... mellow crowds. Makes me remember why I love my break.

One thing that made both times especially nice was reconnecting with surf buds I haven't seen for a while. On Sunday I got to surf with my special longboard friend - the one who always pushes me to take the bigger waves - and yesterday I was with my 'posse' of boomer rock spongers - the jokesters. Lots of laughs with those guys. I forgot how these people make my time out there so much more fun.

Summer is to me ... lulling waves ... peaceful spaces between sets ... talk story time. Another sponger friend who showed up on Sunday told a pretty scary story -- he was just back in the water after having a heart attack (while surfing) last January. Made me realize all the more why I want to be near people I know when I surf. We will be keeping an eye on him out there.

LOL ... I am re-reading all this and sense that my surfing lacks some 'desperation' ... What can I say? ... Good!!

Mama Jama Sus
... charging any way I can