... I think I have a ritual ... I was up at my fav campground again this new years ... solo sojourning with the waves and sun.

The first nite out I just watched the surfers - out til the last hues of pink left the sky; I made camp and grilled a most excellent meal that I ate from my hammock strung carefully so I could wake to the sight of the break. Balmy weather - hardly any wind.

The next morning (new years eve) I was disheartened to see the swell had gone down quite a bit. I saw two surfers out there, but decided to wait anyway. Soon a family appeared, the two guys with longboards. I decided to follow them out. This break is far, far out - about twice as far as the Diamond Head one I am used to. It is also known to be a bit 'sharky'. Not a place I like to go alone.

Out at the break I was pleased to see the waves were a lot better than they appeared from shore. Chest to overhead and steep walls - perfect bowls. The two boarders were dropping fast and sweeping onto long rides to the left. I was right to wait, the others had gone in and it was just us three out there now. I chatted with the two boarders, a man and teen boy and it wasn't but a few minutes into our conversation that the man said, "Are you Süs?!!" ... LOL!! Turns out it was Derek, "Kicked_Out" who I know from here and other online chats! What a coincidence. He said he had only ever surfed Goats once before (it was only my fourth time, myself). We had great fun chatting about online and surf in general. I should have taken time to really look at his boards, though (he shapes his own). He also told me about several east side breaks I had never considered ... interesting.

The conditions were phenomenal - as though ordered especially for my New Years Celebration. It was so good to get some real sized waves again. The three of us traded off waves - the sets coming in one after another. The boy with Derek was his girlfriend's son (yes, his girlfriend is another one of those beauties you surfer boys seem to attract!). The son was pretty awesome; although he is a sponger, he said he had only been longboarding for a month -- he was taking huge waves, great drops ... what a kid!! I was the first to go in - had worked a blister into my toe, and had my fill for the day. We parted with good wishes for the new year. Hope to see Kicked_Out here on the newsgroup more.

My night began with another fantastic meal in the hammock ... and then was filled with smoke and fireworks - even in the campground, so I didn't sleep much. It was a good time to swing in the hammock, watch the stars and muse over this past year. This morning began with my special espresso with sweetened condensed milk, a bit of Chekhov and a long swim in the calm bay. The sun is hot, the wind light. This is paradise.

I am home again, now ... piles of papers to check before I go back to work tomorrow ... and email ... nice.