Today I tried a new break - way up on the almost-North shore, a reef that is out from my favorite camping spot. I had paddled out near the reef before (visiting an offshore island), but this was the first time I was trying out the surf. People had told me that the breaks up there are much faster and steeper and I was looking forward to that even though it was a low (and almost blown out) day.

I saw three shortboarders head out, and so I followed alone shortly afterwards. They were really helpful in giving me hints about the place. (LOL ... especially after I got caught inside the break after my first ride, and had gotten winded with my usual stubborn try-to-punch-through paddle out! They told me about the channel out and also once again warned me about the steep peaks.) They were all ripping the waves - it was a short break with the wind blowing it out, but there were some really nice chest high to overhead waves.

I was patient, and was trying to be considerate, since I was the visiting bodyboarder. I watched the guys get some radical waves. I caught a few smaller ones, but the best ride of the day was quite unexpected. I had been trying to catch the waves in that sheer wall stage - the only way I know to really get a good ride at my home break - and realized that the waves were just rolling in - with no walls til they crested. I figured I'd try to catch one of the "rollers" even though I usually can't kick into them too well. I had a large one coming toward me and the guys were already inside, so I decided to give it a rush. Wow!!! I was on top of it for a split second and the next thing I know I am vertical -- going straight down the face! (... so ... that's what they meant by steep!!) I cut my fall with a great bottom turn and swept across the face - back up and over the end of the wave. What a rush!

Best ride I'd ever had.