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3 Best Surf Sessions of 1999Dec 1999
I am always slow at looking back over the last year ... but, since 1999 was just my second year of surfing seriously (i.e., going out for more than a light shore break), I think I can look back and say 'wow!' Best surfs? ... 1.) OK ... not being a suck up here ... but my session with Neal and Bud when I did the suicide lip launch (http://www.iav.com/~sponge/sesh/new2/sesh202.htm) was definitely a highlight. It was a 'graduation' -- surfing with the *real* surfers ... LOL ... 2.) All my sessions with new friends are memorable: the 'chickapalooza' (Jules and Glenda) that first day treking around to three different breaks was a gas, and taking the show out to Lani's was "heavenly"; I still believe schrocat took me out to Barber's Point as shark-bait (thus setting off my paranoia about longboarders); and the session with Niko from Ontario was unique because *I* was the one showing him around ... lol ... he was such a good sport he even enjoyed the poi and lomi salmon breakfast before we paddled out! 3.) My most memorable moments, however, are probably those solitary ones ... my first wave at Goats where I gasped as the water just fell out from under me; the nite I paddled in through stunning sunset colors as the full moon rose through a transparent rainbow over diamondhead (I kid you not! *cosmic*!); the times I nearly drowned (sigh); the times I took it 'one more level up' and, instead of backing away ... made it down a face that had haunted me in my dreams. yah ... it has been a good year for surfing ...
Malama Pono
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