A quick note on copyright:

As the designer of this pattern, I would love to hear your comments on it. If it inspires you to try your hand at designing, so much the better—I’m an engineer, not an artist, so if I can do it, anyone can.

I would also prefer that you contact me and request permission before distributing this pattern to a large group or selling hats made with this pattern. Doesn’t mean I’ll say no, but I’d like to keep track of these things.



What you’ll need:

The ability to do, or willingness to learn: Knitting and purling on circular and double-pointed needles, a variety of decreases using both knit and purl stitches, following a written pattern, and cables.

150-200 yards of worsted weight yarn soft enough to go next to the skin,
Size 7 16 inch circulars, or whatever gets you a gauge of about 5 stitches/inch in stockinette,
Size 8 dpns, or whatever gets you the same gauge as above (I tighten up on dp’s),
Cable needle, yarn needle, the usual notions.

Notes:
This fits my fairly fat head. For a narrow head, kid's size, or tight fit, cast on a multiple of 10 less than 110 and follow the same instructions up through the decreases, at which point the numbers will change a bit. Then, fudge as needed. The principle of the decreases shouldn't need to change any.

Directions:

Cast on 110 stitches with the circulars, and join the ends, being careful not to have any twists in the row. Establish a k3p2 rib. (Note: When the hat is done, this will be flipped up and appear as a k2p3.) If you want a different-colored border as is seen above, do the k3p2 ribbing for 3 rows, then switch colors. Maintain the ribbing for about 4 inches.

Purl the first of the three knit stitches all the way around so that the k3p2 rib becomes a k2p3 rib. Maintain the k2p3 rib for 4 rows.

Begin the swirl pattern:

Round 1 and all odd rounds:*slip the 2 knit stitches onto a cable needle, hold that needle in front of your knitting, p1, knit the stitches on the cable needle, p2*. Repeat * to * for the round.
Round 2 and all even rounds: knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches.

Keep the swirl pattern going until the hat is as deep as desired with the ribbing flipped up. About 4-5 inches is the amount that I prefer.

(Note: This makes a clockwise swirl. For a counterclockwise swirl, put the last purl stitch of the rib on a cable needle, hold in back as you k the knit stitches, then purl the cable needle stitch. Want zig-zags? Do a few rows of one, then the other! The pattern is pretty flexible.)

Decreasing:

Round 1: Every other time you come upon 3 purl stitches together, purl the first 2 purl stitches together through the back loops. You'll end up with k2p3k2p2 rib a the end of this row. 99 stitches remain.
Round 2: K knit stitches, p purls.
Round 3: Purl the first two stitches together on every section that has 3 purl stitches together through the back loops. You'll end up with a k2p2 rib. 88 stitches remain.
Round 4: K knit stitches, p purls.
Round 5: Every other purl rib, purl the 2 stitches together through the back loop. You'll end up with k2p2k2p1 ribbing at the end of this round. 77 stitches remain.
Round 6: K knit stitches, p purls.
Round 7: For every bit where 2 purl stitches remain next to each other, purl those 2 stitches together through the back loop. There will be a k2p1 ribbing at the end of this round. 66 stitches remain.
Round 8: K knit stitches, p purls.
Round 9: *k2tog, p1, k2, p1*, repeat * to *. This decreases every other knit rib. 55 stitches remain.
Round 10: K knit stitches, p purls.
Round 11: *k1, p1, k2tog, p1*, repeat * to *. You'll end up with a k1p1 ribbing at the end of this row. 44 stitches remain.
Round 12: Knit the knits, purl the purls.
Round 13: *k1, p1, k2tog*, repeat * to *. 33 stitches remain.
Round 14: Knit the knits, purl the purls.
Round 15: *K1, k2tog*, repeat * to *. 22 stitches remain.
Round 16: Knit.
Round 17: *k2 tog* the whole way around. 11 stitches remain.

Break the yarn a foot or two away from the knitting and thread it through the yarn needle. Slip that needle through the last stitches and pull. You'll end up with a very small hole at the top. Weave in the ends--I like to reinforce this spot on the top by running the yarn through those last 11 stitches twice, then duplicate stitching over some of the last stitches, but this is probably overkill. Add a pompom or tassel if it floats your boat.


A quick note on copyright:

As the designer of this pattern, I would love to hear your comments on it. If it inspires you to try your hand at designing, so much the better—I’m an engineer, not an artist, so if I can do it, anyone can.

I would also prefer that you contact me and request permission before distributing this pattern to a large group or selling hats made with this pattern. Doesn’t mean I’ll say no, but I’d like to keep track of these things.