This has been done on my 1990, Manual "Continental European" Nissan 300 ZX Twin Turbo, 2+2 (!!) (left hand drive). All the tests have been done on this car, and the repair has been completely successful. Hopefully, this applies to all the Z32 models all over the world.

First : Description of the problem.

IF

• Speed gauge is perfectly working
• RPM gauge is perfectly working
• Both odometers (the grand total, and the trip odometer) are sometimes working, sometimes not
• The HICAS is working (if you have HICAS)
• The steering is NOT hard

• This is the right How-To for your problem !

• Speed gauge is NOT working acceptably
• The HICAS is NOT working (if you have HICAS)
• The steering is uneven, sometimes OK, sometimes too stiff
• Both odometers (the grand total, and the trip odometer) are sometimes working, sometimes not

Sorry, not the right HOW-TO...your gauge cluster is probably NOT receiving a good speed signal !

Second : Tools reqired.

• Philips/Posidriv Screwdriver
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Contact Cleaning Spray
• Cleaning Spray (WD-40)
• Small Soft Brush
• Lubricating Spray (thin oil) [I used Teflon & Silicon spray]

• Give yourself about 3 hours to do it for the first time, will probably be a lot less

Before you start, please read that document from the first line to the last one.

Remove the bonnet above the gauges cluster

You have to bonnet above the cluster. It's held in place by 2 screws

• Remove the two screw under the bonnet
• Remove the bonnet.
• Above the cluster, there are 2 screws, remove them

Remove both control pods on the side of the Gauge Cluster

You have to remove both control pods, the A/C and the "rear-defrost / fog / lamps" one, and the hidden screws holding the cluster.

• Remove the two screw at the bottom holding the pod.
• Slide the pod out.
• Disconnect the pod.
• Remove the pod.
• Inside the pod are two "golden" screws / bolts (8mm), remove them
• Repeat for the pod on the other side.

Get an access to the cluster, disconnect it, and remove it
You have to remove the plastic trim located in front of the cluster, disconnect all the connections (be REAL easy and cautious with them), and remove the cluster

• Disconnect all the connectors / wires that are in the way
• Rotate the plastic trim in front of the cluster, or remove it.
• Disconnect more connectors in the back of the cluster (shown here with the cluster removed, so you have an idea how many are here). Be careful, the connectors directly plug into the back of the clusted, into a mylar sheet. If you damage it.....too bad for you !!!

• Remove the last 2 screws holding the cluster
• Remove the last 2 connectors on top of the cluster (do not forget them).
• Remove the cluster

• The cluster is held in one piece via plastic tabs, BUT two screws, remove them
• Nicely bent the plastic tabs to open the cluster.
• Note that the transparent tabs (from the front lexan/polycarb) allows you to disassemble the front of the cluster...but it's not really required, unless you want to remove some ugly scratches .
• The black wire is actually directly wired into the odometer motor, remove the connector
• Remove the 3 screws holding the fuel gauge (please note that the various contacts are actually on a mylar sheet.....be real nice with it.
• Remove the Fuel Gauge (btw, do you see that circled screw....do NOT remove it, no need to do that..and it's a pain to put back !)
• Remove the 2 screw on the back of the cluster holding the Odometer assembly
• Remove the Odometer Assembly
• Now, the Cluster looks like that (so try to avoid putting DUST in it), do not play with the handles, and be very nice with them. If possible, do not disturb them

• Here's the odometer assembly (in my case, no "teeth" were broken or damaged. BTW, having seen the gears, I cannot imagine how a gear could end-up being damaged.


• It's not very easy to see in the pics, but my problem was caused by the following
• Very fine black grit on all the gears (causing some drag on the mecanism, stopping it)
• Same grit in the engine
• The white endless screw on the motor shifted a little bit
• Lack of lubrication
• Here's what I did to fix the problem
• Remove the motor from the assembly
• Separate the trip odometer from the odometer
• Clean and Lubricate (I used WD40 then Silicon+Teflon) all gear including the "endless screw"
• Re-Adjust the position of the endless screw
• The motor has an opening (like a slit), spray lubricant in it, then manually rotate it. The "grit" will then ooze out at the base of the motor....re-apply until motor is clean, lubricate.
• Bonus : I re-applied some contact cleaners on all connectors, after all, a 1990 Z is (as of today) 11 years old...amazing how reliable are these connectors

Re-Assembly
Well...it's as usual....same proocedure....in reverse order, and it's really easy, just take your time .
 

• Re-Install in the car, test drive.....problem solved !!!

• With the motor out, both odometers will rotate in both directions freely
• The numbers will NOT be out of alignment
• No red dye will be applied on the numbers
-->-->-->
• 86259 (original)--> 86255 (initial test) --> 86200(testing more) --> 86666 (final setup, why not)
• it could be rotated REALLY easily and fast using a small dremel tool, or a power drill (I guess the bad guys already know that...right)
• The above applies to the Euro Speedo, maybe the US speedo is different....dunno !!

Written/Copyright by H. Le Hir / 010626 email 100031.1520@compuserve.com