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Battle Scenarios



Rules Variants


Terrain Graphics 


Multiple Board Scenario Design Resources 

This page contains info and resources that should be helpful to you in designing and setting up single and multi-board scenarios for Battle Cry. If you design any scenarios, please share them with the rest of the
Battle Cry player community.

There has been some discussion on the web about multiple board scenarios. Most of this discussion concerns double board layouts. In fact Richard Borg has stated himself that he has designed an expansion for the game that includes double board scenarios, an insert to join the two boards, more single board scenarios and rules for multiple players as well. Hasbro is apparently not interested in publishing the product at this time.

You will find layouts for three, four and six board scenarios below (with the notion that unit speeds may need to be increased somewhat - see below). Don Hessong has done the "grunt work" of the geometric part and the ideas on this page are his, providing the impetus for people to design scenarios on these multi-board layouts. A three to six board scenario for the entire battle of Gettysburg at the brigade level would be interesting. Since there is the possibility of pending releases of the ancients version, Ancients B.C. by GMT and the Napoleonic version by Eurogames/Descartes , hopefully these layouts will work for multiple board scenarios for some of these other games in the series too.

This page is divided into four general sections. First, are some RULES IDEAS FOR BIG SCENARIOS, to be used at the discretion of the gamer of course. Second are THE BLANK SCENARIO SHEETS to use for designing your scenarios. You can print each sheet on letter sized paper. Sheet 1 is for a single standard Battle Cry board. The other sheets are to help in designing scenarios for various multi-board set-ups. The third section shows THE BOARD LAYOUTS. You'll see that the layouts define which scenario sheets to use and their configuration in multi-board scenarios. The fourth general section is about THE INSERTS you'll need to make for spanning the gaps between the boards in multi-board sets ups. You will notice that the hexes of these inserts are represented on the blank scenario sheets in red. And also there are THE BIG PICTURES to help you visualize everything being presented on this page.

Go here to see the double-board Gettysburg scenario.

Rules Ideas for Big Scenarios

One aspect about making multi-board scenarios is that the size of the playing area can significantly increase the time involved to move the units around. If you like games that are longer or slow to develop, you wouldn't consider this a problem. Otherwise, some variant rules might be in order here.

One idea is to use playing cards as command cards. The number on the card being the number of units ordered. The idea being that the deck would be customizable. You could use whatever series of numbers you needed depending on the number of units in the scenario and how fast you wanted the game to progress. Use the 3's thru the 6's, or the 5's thru the 8's, etc. The more higher numbered cards you use, the more units get moved per turn and the faster the game progresses. You could use the card suits to designate battlefield sections (the fourth suit could be for all sections). You could also eliminate the battlefield sections altogether, allowing the players to move the units of their choice from the entire battlefield. You could still use the special order cards along with the playing cards. Use two stacks. Determine the number of each type of card to be held by each player. Draw from the special orders deck when a special orders card was played and draw from the playing card deck when one of those were played (remove all the cards that order units by section from the Battle Cry deck). There are playing cards on-line with historical content. These would be a nice touch if you use this idea and could spawn new ideas to use the cards for too. Be sure to check out the following link. Once you get there, look at the "games" catalog, as well as the "playing cards" catalog.

U.S. Games Systems

Another idea to speed things up in a large scenario is simply to allow the units to move a little faster. For example, allowing artillery to move one space AND shoot anyway. Maybe allow the player moving infantry the choice of moving two spaces (but not shoot) or moving one space (and shoot). These rules along with removing the limitations of battlefield sections and moving more units per turn would provide much more maneuverability. It would be more of a think ahead planning and maneuver game.

The Blank Scenario Sheets

Scenario Sheets


Sheet 1

Standard single board

Sheet 2

Right side of double board scenarios.
Includes standard insert.

Sheet 3

Lower left hand board.
Includes long insert.

Sheet 4

Lower right hand board.
Includes all inserts.

The Board Layouts

Note the green number corresponds to the blank scenario sheet number from the table above.

The standard double board layout.
In this layout you'd need one standard insert.

Three boards, extending the standard double board layout.
In this layout you'd need two of the standard inserts.

Three boards turned on end.
This approach has its small problems. With the change of hex grain, it might be best to have the dividing lines run between hex rows, hence no hex is in more than one section. If a dividing line ran down the middle of a hex row, all the hexes in that row would be in both sections. Which is best probably depends on the scenario. The change of hex grain also creates three possible hexes for retreats in some cases. Notice this layout makes the battlefield deeper, which may be beneficial for certain battles, but I don't think I'd use it without variant rules that provide for an increase in the speed of the units and more mobility from section to section, again depending on the scenario. The nice thing about the hex grain running this way is that you can create battlefields that look more organic and aesthetically pleasing. In this layout you'd need two of the long inserts. With the position of the dividing lines, one insert would be oriented one direction, and the other would be oriented 180 degrees in the other direction to have the symmetry needed for each section to have an equal number of hexes - this works out nicely.

Four board layout.
Again variant rules that provide for an increase in the speed of the units and more mobility from section to section may be called for. In this layout you'd need two of the standard inserts, two of the long inserts and one of the smaller square-ish inserts.


Six board layout.

Once again, faster guys and more mobility between sections. This would fit pretty well on a 4' by 8' table. You'd need four of the standard inserts, three of the long inserts and two of the smaller square-ish inserts.


The Inserts

I'm going to present the inserts in two ways. First, I'll show them as WHOLE pieces as defined so far; "standard", "longer" and the "smaller square-ish" one. But there are also many advantages to making them with a MODULAR approach and I'll cover that later.

Note that the illustrations just show the configuration of the hexes on the inserts; these are not full size (those come later).

The Standard Double Board Insert

This is all you need for the 1st and 2nd layouts above (1x2 and 1x3 the long way).

But you will also need it for the 4th and 5th layouts (2x2 and 2x3).


The Long Insert

This is all you need for the 3rd layout above (1x3 with boards turned on end).

But you will also need it for the 4th and 5th layouts (2x2 and 2x3).


The Smaller Square-ish Insert

You will need this for the 4th and 5th layouts above (2x2 and 2x3).



The Modular Approach to Making the Inserts

Making the inserts in smaller chunks and then laying out more of them to get the configuration you need has some very nice advantages; they'll all fit in the Battle Cry box, no waste (you only make what you need - then you only add what you need later), there will be less magnification of error since you can trim as needed more readily, smaller downloads (if printing off nice ones - see below), each insert will print on one letter sized page. The only disadvantage I can think of is pretty minor; there will be some un-used dividing lines crossing all the inserts in the short direction, if you print off the ones I have provided below (but no big deal really - they'll fade into the background while you're playing).

Again, please note that the below illustrations just show the configuration of the hexes on the inserts; these are not full size (those come later).

The Smaller Square-ish Insert

Same as above. If you make two of these, you will have enough for a standard double-board layout and even a double-board-turned-on-end layout like the Gettysburg scenario .
(note that I did not show that option in the Board Layouts section, but it is very similar to the three-boards-turned-on-end layout - just 2 boards rather than 3).



The Smaller Round-ish Insert

If you make three of these, again you will have enough for a standard double-board layout and the double-board-turned-on-end layout.

  If you want to see what it all looks like together,
check out this multi-board
Gettysburg scenario.

The Big Picture

This is a montage of the various board layouts. This is just to help visualize the layouts and insert configurations. It might look like things don't line up right in this picture. I had to spread the inserts out to show them better. Also, don't get thrown by the extra board at the bottom left. If you turn your head 90 degrees, it shows the three-boards-turned-on-end layout. The modular round-ish inserts are in blue and the modular square-ish inserts are in red. Pretty cool huh? I think we're very lucky that the hexes' geometry turned out so nicely - very convenient.

If you don't use the modular approach with the inserts, then the blue and red don't mean anything. But you can still see how the larger, whole inserts would be configured combining alternating blue and red modules (refer to the pictures above). Note that you'd still use the smaller square-ish inserts at the junction of four boards.


Making the Inserts

These are easy to make. The ideal insert would have two pieces. The underneath piece would be exactly the right size to fit between the actual game boards' edges and be the same thickness of the game boards. This will make the arrangement more stable by giving something for the upper piece to rest on and the two boards something to butt up against on the table. There is something you can buy at craft stores that is exactly the right thickness for the underneath piece, which is 3/32 of an inch thick. I believe it's called artist board, but don't quote me on the name. This thick stuff would be difficult to cut. Craft stores and framing places can do the cutting for you.

The upper piece is what you see when you play; it has the hexes on it. You could glue the upper piece and the underneath piece together. But the distance between the game boards is subject to variances depending on how much margin they create when they mount the game's paper surface to the board at the factory. They don't always get the maps centered exactly right on the boards. And also, one long side has more margin as part of the printed area than the other long side of the board (by about 1/8 of an inch). So it's probably safer to not glue the two pieces together since you might need to have the flexibility to fudge slightly. I think it's better to just use something tacky to keep the two pieces from sliding around. You could use that tacky putty stuff. But then there is also a Scotch/3M glue stick product called restickable adhesive. It only applies the same amount of tackiness of 3M's Post-It notes.

The dimensions for the underneath pieces:
(this assumes you won't be gluing the upper pieces and the underneath pieces together)
14 inches long by 2 and 3/4 inches wide by 3/32 of an inch thick.

The dimensions for the upper MODULAR pieces:
The Smaller Square-ish Insert; 6 and 5/8 inches by 6 and 3/8 inches.
The Smaller Round-ish Insert; 6 and 5/8 inches by 6 and 3/8 inches.
Yes, they are supposed to be the same.

For the upper piece, you could use something rigid such as mat board or thick card stock (in which case the tacky putty stuff would be OK to keep the two parts from sliding around). After cutting all the pieces out, place the underneath piece on the table between the two boards and butt the boards up against it. Then lay the upper pieces over the top of all this and line them up on the two boards and start tracing hexes using a hex terrain tile as a guide. However, be careful because the tiles are a little smaller than the hexes on the board. You can then trim around the edges, following the outlines of the hexes if you want.

If you decide to print out the upper pieces (using the files below), have them laminated and use the restickable adhesive glue stick to keep the two parts from sliding around (the point being that the tacky putty stuff is not the best way to go if your upper pieces are basically paper thin).

I like this way of using the longer underneath pieces with the modular upper pieces. I have two underneath pieces. I use both (end-to-end) when playing my double-board-turned-on-end scenario. I will use one when playing a standard double board layout. It's a little short of the length of the board, but plenty long enough to give support to the entire arrangement (or use another piece about 6 inches long). At 14 inches, three will fit end-to-end-to-end for four and six board scenarios. And it all fits in the box! The below picture is another montage just to show how to arrange the underneath pieces in various layouts.

Other Options

If you don't want to do the MODULAR approach, here are the dimensions you'll need for the WHOLE inserts (but remember, they won't fit in the box):

The upper pieces:
The Standard Double Board Insert; 20 and 1/4 inches long by 6 and 5/8 inches wide.
The Long Insert; 30 and 1/4 inches long by 6 and 3/8 inches wide.
These are a little long since I measured to the ends of the board, but this is not a problem.
The Smaller Square-ish Insert (still needed if you want to use four or six boards in a layout); 6 and 5/8 inches by 6 and 3/8 inches.

The underneath pieces:
The Standard Double Board Insert; 20 and 1/4 inches long by 2 and 3/4 inches wide by 3/32 of an inch thick.
The Long Insert; 30 and 1/4 inches long by 2 and 3/4 inches wide by 3/32 of an inch thick.
The Smaller Square-ish Insert; 2 and 3/4 inches by 2 and 3/4 inches and 3/32 of an inch thick.

You could print out the upper pieces on paper, possibly have them laminated, and/or glue them to a stiff backing. It'll look nicer. But my brown mat board with crayon swirl grass looks good enough considering it just sort of fades into the background when you're playing anyway. You could also glue these directly to the underneath pieces, or use that tacky glue stick. Here are the files to print the upper pieces if you want them.

The MODULAR upper pieces:

       Click here to download the modular Square-ish Insert
       Click here to download the modular Round-ish Insert

The WHOLE upper pieces:

       Click here to download the whole Standard Double Board Insert
       Click here to download the whole Long Insert
       Click here to download the Square-ish Insert (which goes with the whole inserts)

And it all fits in the box!

If you use my modular approach with the 14 inch underneath pieces, everything for double-board scenarios, including two copies of the game, fits in one box. I took the lower cardboard shelf out of one box. I then put the plastic tray in the bottom. In the plastic tray goes all the components from both copies of the game except the figures. Above the plastic tray goes both game boards. Then I took the cardboard shelf and taped the corners together. Then that goes in the box, open side up. Inside the shelf goes the rules, the inserts and all the figs. It all fits perfectly and has a nice heft to it. How's that for thinking INside the box?