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UPDATED: 24 April 2005<---a long time ago!

(11 Feb, 2011) - The dates on this site are a dead giveaway that I don't build potato guns anymore. I've moved on to career type hobbies :). You can check out my latest electronics projects at I thought about this site today and came to check it out. I had a laugh because I hadn't updated anything on here in almost six years. If you still want to build a "Solen-tater", just use three 9 volt batteries with it. Most solenoids are meant to be used with 24V AC controllers. I didn't know that back in the day. If you are here, I appreciate you stopping by. I can't believe Angelfire is still around... <\p>
(10 April, 2005)

In July of 2000, I decided I would build a potato gun to keep up with my friend's technological advances. He had been out of high school for some 2 years and worked at my family's company and knew me through the business (and I'm sure something else that almost 5 years later I can't remember). When you have a 18 and 20 year old "kids" hanging out, there is bound to be mischief.

It has been 4 years and some change since the building of my first potato gun. I recently signed onto AOL instant messenger and received a message from someone that had just looked through this site. He (and I assume the person on the other end is a guy) had a suggestion of how to improve something I have showcased on this site. I have recently abandoned the project and sold the evidence, but took to heart the improvement. I also took to heart that people still enjoy something that I obviously haven't done in a while. I joined the Army a year after creating this site and I haven't done much to improve it since then. The "Solentater" has been a *NEW* idea for almost a year. Some kind of Tatergun site this is!?

Although I cannot promise that I can make it better I can promise that I will "try" to improve it. I am sure that people with slow internet providers look at it the most, therefore I will try and make the main page smaller in size and link it to separate pages for the "old" designs. I am also going to add a links page that is separate from the "web-ring" to facilitate some sites with ideas that are unique as my own.

I must go eat dinner now, but I leave you with this...Potato cannons are, without fail, never boring and never stale, but my dinner will be if I don't get it within ten minutes.

(24 April, 2005)

Paypal seems to be one of my most visited spots on the net these past few weeks. I love to sell stuff on Ebay and I had the most brilliant idea...why don't I sell pre-assembled taterguns online??? I'm going to put a poll on here to get some input from the visitors to this site. Please visit my blog site and leave a comment on whether or not I should build and sell them on my site.

Plans and descriptions for: Tater2000(opens a new window), Airspud(opens a new window), Airpea and SolentaterNEW

NEW Projects

Sounds of the guns


Contact Info

truth777<~~~not potato gun related


How to build the Airpea. Does not include interchangeable barrels.

12" of 1.5" Sched. 40 PVC

22" of 3/4" Sched. 40 PVC

(ONE) 1.5" End cap

(ONE) 1.5" Coupling

(ONE) 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer Bushing

(ONE) 3/4" PVC ball valve

(ONE) Tire valve

PVC cement

This gun is safer but still has a great risk.

Step one:

Drill .5" hole in end cap for tire valve.

Step two:

Cut 4" off the 22" of 1.5" pipe. You now have a 4" and 18" piece of pipe.

Step three:

Sand all parts to be glued

Step four:

Wash pipe in soapy water or prime it. Which ever you care to do.

Step five:

Pull tire valve through hole in end cap

Step six:

Glue end cap on one end of 1.5" pipe

Step seven:

Glue 1.5" coupling to the other end of 1.5" pipe

Step eight:

Glue 1.5" x 3/4" reducer into 1.5" coupling

Step nine:

Glue 4" piece of 3/4" pipe into 1.5" x 3/4" reducer

Step ten:

Glue ball valve onto 4" piece of 3/4" pipe

Step eleven:

Glue 18" piece of 3/4" pipe into ball valve


PSI Velocity (m\s) 5% DPA=15 DPA=30 DPA=45 DPA=60 DPA=75 Projectile
20 19 18 32 37 32 18 Bottle Rocket Technology
40 26 34 60 69 60 34 Bottle Rocket Technology
60 32 52 90 104 90 52 Bottle Rocket Technology
80 39 78 134 155 134 78 Bottle Rocket Technology
100 45 103 179 207 179 103 Bottle Rocket Technology
I have designed a better projectile for the Airpea. It is constructed of 3/4" dowel rod with a tail of 1/4" dowel rod. I like to refer to it as bottle rocket technology.

These calculations neglect air resistance. To reach these distances projectile must be shot with a strong wind.

(DPA=xx) - Distance Per Angle {45 would be the furthest if air resistance was non-existent}

Not Exact (5%)

The overall average cost of the "Airspud" is $30.00.

Status: (No longer own)




Sounds of the air guns

This page is devoted to my hobbies.

Robbie's Attic

This page describes a project I am designing.

Guitar Ball End Necklace

These sounds seem fake but that is exactly how they sound. Sad but true. They sound like cartoons.


Airpea (26k) - Full of water - Water seems to vaporize immediately. Makes a loud pop.

Airspud (10k) - Full of water - Sends 38 fluid ounces of water up to 50 feet drenching anything in its path. Makes a funny sound too.

Airspud (8k) -Wet sock (simulates the quietness) Wet socks are great for neighbors. They hang in tops of trees and start to stink in only a few days.

How to Fire Tater2000

To successfully fire the Tater2000 Aquanet in the spray can is about the best to use. And a lantern sparker can be substituted for the grill igniter because they are more reliable.




Tater2000 (23k)




Matt Reily's web page- Links to "Launching stuff with liquid nitrogen"

Expensive version of the "Airspud" - Not for sale so don't ask 'em

Backyard Ballistics

The Spud Zone

This guy has a pretty awesome site. These are his links. He has researched it as well as I have. Check out his site. You won't be disappointed.




Have fun!



Spud Cannons Of The Internet
site is owned by
Robert Pitts

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Air Cannons of the Internet
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The newest of my potato endeavors is the "Solentater". I built this whole thing for less than $37.00. I ordered a few parts in the mail, and made 3 trips to 2 different hardware stores to get pipe and other PVC parts. Not to mention the all purpose shop stop at Wal-Mart. Unfortunately, at this time, I do not have any tests or performance estimates...and where I am now, I probably won't.

I am wrapping my chamber in duct tape just in case it does decide to explode. I still don't trust PVC pipe and I never will.

A problem I have with this one is that a regular 9 volt battery is not enough to engage the solenoid. Maybe when I get out of the Army I'll have time to find a better power source. If someone finds an improvement let me know.

Parts (and prices I paid)

  1. 3/4" In-line Valve 15.00

  2. 1 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC 1.00/foot  (Need 4")

  3. 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC .30/foot (Need 9")

  4. 3/4" Fem Adapter .30 (Need 2)

  5. 1 1/2" x 3/4" Reducer Bushing .60

  6. 1 1/2" Coupling .30

  7. 1 1/2" End Cap 1.00

  8. Schrader Valve 1.00

  9. Momentary Contact Switch 3.00

  10. 9 Volt Battery Connector (Would cost about 2.00 at Radio Shack, but the battery back-up in my alarm clock never worked to begin with and was just a waste of 9 volt batteries so I just tore it out of it and used it for a better cause)

  11. 9 Volt Battery 1.00

  12. Teflon Tape 1.00

  13. Sand Paper 2.00

  14. 7/16 Drill Bit 4.50

  15. PVC Glue 5.50 (32oz can, but you don't need that much unless you mass produce)

  16. Electric Drill vs. "All By Hand" (Drill makes it faster, but this can be done with just the drill bit and takes about 5 creative)

Step one:

Drill 7/16"  hole in end cap for tire valve.

Step two:

Sand then wash (in soapy water) all parts to be glued then dry

Step three:

Pull tire valve through hole in end cap

Step four:

Glue End Cap onto 1.5" PVC

Step five:

Glue 1.5" Coupling on other end of 1.5" PVC

Step six:

Glue 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer into 1.5" coupling

Step seven:

Glue short 3/4" PVC into 1.5" x 3/4" Reducer

Step eight:

Glue 3/4" Thread Adapter onto short 3/4" PVC

Step nine:

Glue other 3/4" Thread Adaptor onto the long 3/4" PVC

Step ten:

Wrap male threads with teflon tape and thread barrel and chamber onto valve threads (Be sure to line the airflow up with the arrows on the valve)

Step eleven:

Let glue dry at least overnight before pressurizing

Step twelve:

Connect wires from solenoid to battery holder and switch



Random Photos

This is the firing mechanism described for the "Tater2000".

You can be creative here. Almost anything works as long as there is a gap for sparks to jump across.

I believe there is someone out there that uses a 10,000 volt stun gun for this purpose. It may cost a bit more but the spark reliability and magnitude is well worth the price.

This is what the valve stem looks like when it is pulled through the end cap.

This is a very simple job and when it is done correctly makes your gun look professional.

Image not available

Clean Out Adapter

Clean Out Plug


Short Turn Reducing T-Y

End Cap

Reducer Coupling

Reducer Bushing

PVC Ball Valve

Female Adapter

Male Adapter

Click here to return to PVC in TATERLAND



Contact Info

Rob Pitts

Pitts911 (AOL Instant Messenger screen name [No emails])

No email available due to some serious spammers in the world.