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BODY PAINTING

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CHAT ROOM

Home Introduction The Kits Chassis Ass'y Cockpit Motor Ass'y Order of Ass'y Supplies Tools B-377 Ass'y Hood Fix Body Mods Body Prep & Prime Body Painting Paint Rubout Body Clearcoating Otter Ass'y B-377 Painting Otter Painting Chassis Completion


Okay now that you got that perfect primed surface, you are ready to apply the color coats. First a little preparation. Your paint area must be relatively dust free. We are not talkin' clean room here, just common sense clean. If you are not lucky to have a dedicated model area in the house like I do, you must take precautions. Before I do any gloss painting where surface finish is critical, I carefully dust down the immediate area with a damp rag. I also mist the surfaces with water from a spray bottle to knock down the dust and keep it down. This is help to reduce or eliminate the chances of have those pesky little dust blivits in your finish. Here is a prime example on how this can work. I use to build custom furniture in a small shop where I finished the pieces in the same area as where the woodworking was done. I used spray clear lacquer finishes as the topcoats. You can imagine the dust in that environment, but I was able to clean the immediate finish area and then knock down the dust by misting the air and surrounding surfaced with water from a spray bottle and my finishes always came out nice.

After having done this I begin the spraying. I am not going to go into detailed technique here as that is covered in the article on my modeling pages. I will be starting with the Gloss White for the CAT car, the top of the B-377, and the Otter. I will do all three at one session. I will be using Testor's Model Master White for this. Now I have heard all the horror stories of white yellowing, but to be honest, I have not seen this problem, especially if a good clearcoat is used. I have had white yellowing if I try to apply too heavy a coat. I first start by misting on the first coat to each model in turn. I then go back and apply several light color coats to each in turn until they are all an even consistent color. Note I paint the hood of the CAT car separately and I mask off the radiator cowling. More on masking later. I also use a stand made from a bent wire clothes hanger to hold the body while I paint it. after I am satisfied, I put all the models off to the side to dry. I use a large cake or Tupperware container sometimes to keep dust off the models during painting. Frankly if you have followed the procedure and wait about 5 minutes between coats, the paint sets up pretty quick and will be hard enough in a few minutes to prevent dust blivits from embedding themselves in the finish.

After painting the white, I then turn to painting the yellow areas of the second CAT car using the same techniques. I paint as much of these areas as I can with minimum overlap into the black areas. No masking. Now here is where the patience comes in again. I do not even LOOK at the painted models for at least 2 days. Enamels take a while to cure. White and light colors are not too bad. Good rule of thumb is if you can smell the paint it is still out gassing. I use this time to do the other things that the model requires like detail painting, chassis assembly, go on that hot date, etc. This is another good reason to combine projects.

Now it is time to mask off the yellow areas on the one CAT car and the rear area of the White CAT car to paint the black areas on the first ant the spoiler or trunk on the other depending on which race you want to do. As of the writing of this, I may decide to use decal to do the spoiler on the White CAT car. I use regular masking tape to mask off my models. I normally use 2" wide tape. I first lay the tape on sheet of glass and cut 1/16" wide strips using a straight edge and a sharp X-acto knife. I use this strips to mask the color separation lines and then use the wider tape to mask off the remaining areas. If you want, you can use the excellent 3M striping tape found in auto body supply houses. This is very thin and conforms well to compound curves, but it ain't cheap, but it comes in rolls down to 1/16". Using this tape you reduce or eliminate the little raised line of paint that you get sometimes. Although I have had good luck withe the plain old masking tape. The key is not to try to put on too thick a coat of paint. After masking, I shoot the black being careful to again mist on the first coat and apply several light color coats to slowly build up the color. I again paint the hood of the CAT car separately as black is pretty easy to match. In fact unless the color separation line runs through the hood, or is a metallic or candy color, I paint the hood separately. In the other cases I mount the hood on the body and hold in place from underneath with tape.

At this point both CAT cars should be painted and put aside to dry. Remember patience again as black paint takes the longest to cure. If you see little dust blivits don't worry about that as we will take care of those later as required. At this point I let the bodies sit for several days to a week to let the paint fully cure before rubout and decaling. The planes should now be ready for their metalizer finishes or the contrasting colors which will be discussed in a separate section.

This is what the two Cat Pontiacs look like when the painting is complete.