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mix it up
FEATURE
Aug02
Turn on to today's blenders
Vita Mix Super 5000 Waring Kitchen Classic Blender (WPB06) Hamilton Beach Blend Smart 18-speed (56406) Cuisinart SmartPower 7-Speed (SPB-7) Electric Blender KitchenAid (KSB5) 5-Speed Ultra Power Blender
Blenders are one of the most versatile small kitchen appliances ever designed. They are a necessity for cooks across the board—from dessert chefs creating a delicate raspberry sauce to college students whipping up a batch of frozen margaritas. Blenders are a staple on bridal registries. You may even remember your first blender—and you certainly remember the first time you turned it on without the lid. Blenders are indispensable for otherwise difficult tasks, such as puréeing cooked vegetables into soups and making fruit smoothies. And operating a blender very straightforward—put stuff in, turn it on. However, as with most appliances, over the years the blender has gone from a basic one-step, two-speed appliance to a high-speed, high-option, high-tech gadget. While simple models are still available, consumers now have a wealth of choices and features to sift through.
Probably one of the saddest moments of my mother's cooking life was the day she had to get rid of her 1960s Waring blender. "It did everything", she often laments "it was easy to clean and it never broke down." Of course, finally one day the motor just stopped—even the world's most perfect appliance can only last so long. I've never understood what she loved so much about that blender. As far as I can remember it had two speeds—on and off—and the lid never fit quite right, so clean-up always involved mopping specks of pureed food off the blender, the counter, the ceiling, the floor. My theory is that my mother loved that blender so much because it was simple. She put the food in and blended it. She didn't have to choose from blend, puree, dice, mix; she didn't have to choose one of eighteen speeds. She definitely didn't have to select options like "easy start" and "smart blend".
But is simpler always better? You'll have to decide for yourself, but be patient, the choices are not as difficult as they seem. The first step is to decide what you'll be using your blender for. Do you host a lot of margarita parties by the pool? Then you'll need a blender that transforms cubes of ice into a slushy treat. Are you using it to make pureed baby food? You'll want one that's sturdy and easy to clean. Do you want to use your blender to make delicate sauces? You'll need one with a lot of speed and options. Blenders are great for all of the above as well as turning any cooked vegetable into a delicious soup or side dish with loads of flavor and very little fat. Blenders are also perfect for making healthy delicious smoothies with very little effort. In fact, aside from the obvious things like a leg of lamb or a slice of pizza, the only food you should never put in a blender is a potato. Blending does something odd to the composition of a potato churning it into a white sticky gluey mess. And leave jobs like making piecrust and serious chopping to your food processor. There is a good reason to own both. Most blenders have two or more speed setting. Blenders in our testing ranged from two to eighteen speeds. Blenders were tested on how well they performed a variety of kitchen functions from chopping ice to grating cheese to pureeing fruits and vegetables. All performed very well on simple jobs like making soups or recipes where liquids were included. The toughest test was pureeing more solid items like cooked beans or raw vegetables without much liquid. Turning out a bean dip with a nice thick consistency usually involved a lot of scraping and pulsing. As with any appliance, and even more so for the blender, it is really important to read all the directions before you start using it. Knowing the strengths and quirks of each blender will save you time and frustration, and will guide you through the most difficult jobs safely and easily.
None of the blenders we tested worked well when packed full so a good-sized container is a must. Container jars will range in size from 32 to 48 ounces or so and are glass, plastic or stainless steel. None of the blenders we tested came with a stainless steel container and glass was preferred over plastic because it is sturdier and easier to clean. All blenders tested also had a lid insert that can be removed while blender is operating to add ingredients or release steam. Metal bases were preferred over plastic for stability though we had no major problems with plastic based blenders moving around while in use, even at high speeds. All had removable blades, a must for thorough cleaning, and all cleaned themselves up after easy jobs but running at high speed with warm water and a bit of dishwashing soap. For this cleaning method you'll want to rinse the container well and then run through some plain water on to make sure all the soap is rinsed clean. Many blenders now on the market, including some we tested, have options like "Step Start" or "BlendSmart" which are preprogrammed settings that guide the blender through optimal performance. These are handy but are probably unnecessary once you have worked with your blender for a while and mastered its operation.
When all is said and done unless you are serious about wanting a blender with the power to thoroughly pulverize your food, probably a lower priced blender that maybe has a few less options will work for you. Again, do a assessment of your cooking habits and how you will use your blender. Once you understand your needs, you'll find there is a perfect blender out there just waiting for you.
However, as with most appliances, over the years the blender has gone from a basic one-step, two-speed gadget to a high-speed, high-option, high-tech appliance. Although simple models are still available, consumers now have a wealth of choices and features to consider. But are more choices better? Decide for yourself—the choices are not as difficult as they seem. When choosing a blender, the first step is to decide what you'll be using your blender for. Do you host margarita parties by the pool? Then you'll need a blender that transforms cubes of ice into a slushy libation. Are you using it to purée baby food? You'll want one that's sturdy and easy to clean. Blenders are great at such tasks, as well as for turning any cooked vegetable into a delicious soup or side dish with loads of flavor and very little fat. In fact, the only food you should never put into a blender is a potato, for blending churns it into a white, sticky mass. And leave jobs like making pie crusts and serious chopping to your food processor. There are good reasons for owning both small appliances. Most blenders have two or more speed settings—even up to 18 speeds. Blenders were tested on how well they performed a variety of kitchen functions, from crushing ice to grating cheese to puréeing fruits and vegetables. All performed very well with simple tasks, like making soups or dishes calling for liquids. The toughest test was puréeing more solid items, such as cooked beans or raw vegetables without much liquid. Turning out a thick bean dip often involved scraping and pulsing.
None of the blenders worked well when packed to the brim, so a good-sized container is a must for quantity cooking. All have a lid insert, which can be easily removed while the blender is operating, so that you can add ingredients or release steam. All have removable blades, a must for thorough cleaning. And all are easily cleaned after easy jobs. Simply run them at high speed with warm water and dishwashing soap, making sure to rinse well before reuse.
As with any appliance, read the instructions, before and after purchase. Knowing the blender's strengths and quirks will save you time, and it will help you make the right choice—and do the job well.
Vita Mix Super 5000
Features: Variable speed dial. Automatic temperature protector. Tamper for food circulation. Two separate blades for wet or dry blending. Two 2-liter plastic containers. Built-in cord storage.
Suggested Retail Price: $479
Performance: Great for difficult jobs. Grates cheese instantly and crushes ice well. Bread-kneading option takes practice. Can bring water to a boil; the
machine "cooks" by blade's friction heat.
Comments: For cooks who want
serious equipment. Fantastic for juicing. Comes with instructional video and booklet. At highest speed, machine sounds like an airplane taking off.
Waring Kitchen Classic Blender
(WPB06)
Features: 2 speeds—high and low. One 40-oz. glass container with pour spout Removable 2-oz. measuring cap.
Suggested Retail Price: $150
Performance: Won't crush ice without liquid, leaving larger cubes uncrushed. Grates cheeses evenly and purées vegetables very well.
Comments: Metal base is sturdy. It offers simple, easy, one-two operation. Jar does not lock completely in base and can move slightly. Despite incomplete ice crushing, its ease of operation makes it terrific for drinks. Design gives it a great retro look. Make sure switch is turned off before plugging in.
Hamilton Beach Blend Smart 18-Speed (56406)
Features: Rotary speed dial. Speeds: stir, purée, chop, mix, blend and liquefy. Pulse on any speed. "BlendSmart" 45-second preprogrammed blending cycle. 48-oz glass container with pour spout. Removable inner lid. Plastic base with "sure loc" safety feature.
Suggested Retail Price: $39.99
Performance: Much scraping needed for drier purées. Will not crush ice without liquid. Grates cheese unevenly.
Comments: BlendSmart feature is great for making smoothies. Rotary dial is difficult to set and hard to read. Its 18 speeds don't handle big jobs well. If your needs are simple, it will get the job done. The low price is attractive.
Cuisinart SmartPower 7-Speed (SPB-7) Electric Blender
Features: Speeds: stir, chop, mix, purée, liquefy and crush speeds. Pulse on any speed. Removable 2-oz. measuring cap. Ice crush button. 40-oz glass container with pour spout. Touchpad controls. Built-in cord storage. Plastic base.
Suggested Retail Price: $120
Performance: Consistently good for a variety of uses. Ice crush button helpful but not necessary. Crushes ice well in small amounts. Grates cheese uniformly. Base is sturdy and stays in place.
Comments: Works very well and has the Cuisinart reputation to back it up. Its self-locking base fits in any position,
making this a nice feature and enhancing machine's appeals.
Kitchen Aid (KSB5) 5-Speed Ultra Power Blender
Features: Speeds: stir, chop, mix, purée and liquefy speeds. Pulse on any speed. Removable 2-oz. measuring cap. "Step Start" preprogrammed button starts blender at low speed, then increases to selected setting. 40-oz glass container with pour spout. Touchpad controls. Built-in cord storage.
Suggested Retail Price: $129.99
Performance: Powerful, easy to use and good for harder jobs. Grates cheese uniformly. Lid has a very good seal. Touchpad is easy to clean.
Comments: Very versatile. Great overall performance. Sturdy metal base. Attractive and quiet. Easy to assemble and to disassemble for cleaning.
Super-Fast Smoothie 01-AUG-02 p. 44
Serves 4?Egg-free
Everyone loves a smoothie!
2 cups sliced strawberries (one-pint basket)
1 ripe banana, peeled
1 cup chopped, pitted and peeled mango (1 large)
1 cup strawberry-flavored nonfat yogurt or soy yogurt
8 ice cubes
1 cup 2-percent milk or soymilk
Whole strawberries for garnish
Combine ingredients and blend until smooth. Pour into large glasses and garnish with whole strawberries.
PER Serving: 140 CAL; 5 G PROT; 1 G TOTAL FAT (1 SAT. FAT); 29 G CARB.; 5 MG CHOL; 75 MG SOD.; 4 G FIBER
Roasted Eggplant Dip 01-AUG-02 p. 44
MAKES 2 1/2 cups?Egg-free
This complements any Middle Eastern
appetizer or main course. As an alternate to pita, try Middle Eastern lavosh bread.
2 large eggplants (about 1½ lbs.)
2 red bell peppers
1 Tbs. olive oil
¼ cup loosely packed fresh coriander leaves
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice
Salt to taste
½ tsp. hot pepper sauce, or to taste
½ cup low-fat sour cream or plain nonfat yogurt
1. Preheat oven to 425F.
2. Prick eggplants and bell peppers several times with fork and rub with olive oil. Roast on baking tray for 30 to 45 minutes, or until soft.
3. When cool enough to handle, peel and chop eggplants and seed and core bell peppers. Combine in blender with fresh coriander, lime juice and salt and pulse for 30 to 45 seconds, keeping mixture coarse-textured.
4. Place in bowl and add hot pepper sauce and sour cream. Mix, adjust seasonings and chill for 1 hour before serving with toasted pita wedges.
Wine Suggestion
Try wines from the Sancerre region of the Loire Valley, France, especially the Pouilly-Fumé "L'Arrêt Buffate" made by F. Tinel-Blondelet.
PER Serving: 150 CAL; 4 G PROT; 6 G TOTAL FAT (2 SAT. FAT); 25 G CARB.; 10 MG CHOL; 45 MG SOD.; 8 G FIBER
Chilled Cucumber Soup 01-AUG-02 p. 45
SERVES 4?Egg-free
1 large English cucumber peeled, seeded and chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh dill
3 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 cup vegetable stock
4 cups plain low- or nonfat yogurt
2 scallions, trimmed and chopped (white part only)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Lemon slices and dill sprigs for garnish
Combine ingredients in blender and purée until fairly smooth. Adjust seasonings to taste. Cover tightly and chill at least 3 hours. Garnish with dill sprigs and lemon slices before serving.
Wine Suggestion
Raw cucumbers, citrus and yogurt pair well with Sauvignon Blanc. Try Mason Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
PER Serving: 160 CAL; 14 G PROT; 1 G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 24 G CARB.; 5 MG CHOL; 45 MG SOD.; 2 G FIBER
Anne Harrington
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