CHARACTERISTICS: A constrictor that has a huge size potential, and a generally docile disposition. Babies may initially act nasty and bite, this is due to fear. With proper handling (use gloves if necessary) and care the animal will develop a placid nature. Semi-arboreal, small animals frequently climb. Wild caught and unhandled snakes may be difficult to handle and will bite and defecate to escape the keeper's grasp. REQUIREMENTS: Tropical temperatures of 80 - 92. Enclosure length should allow the animal to stretch out half its length with a width a third to half of the animal's length. Purchase captive born babies whenever possible, they are easier to tame than larger wild caught animals. DIET: Mice, rats, guinea pigs and rabbits. SIZE & LIFE SPAN: Lengths of 15'+ are common, and may exceed 22'+ in captivity. Lengths of 10' may be reached in the first 18 months of the animal's life if fed heavily. Females have a larger size potential. Prone to obesity if over fed. May live 25+ years in captivity. DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Intermediate, keeper should have a basic understanding of pythons and other snakes before keeping is to be attempted. A generally hardy species that makes an excellent pet. Susceptible to pneumonia when stressed (cool temperatures). BREEDING: Sexual maturity reached in the first 1.5 - 4 years. Refer to the Snake Sexing care card if sex is unknown. Males breed at 7 - 9' and females 9'+. Breeding season in captivity: November - March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should have excellent weight and be established before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photo periods to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the low 70's; daytime temperatures in the low 80's. Introduce the female into the males cage. Misting the animals with water may be beneficial. Clutch sizes of 20 - 80+ eggs, maternally incubates. Incubation temperature 88 - 90F (optimal), 55 - 70 days to hatch depending on temperature. Frequently bred in captivity. PATTERN AND COLOR MUTATIONS: Albino, patternless green, brindle, leopard, indian/burmese crosses, hypo, granite, marble and labyrinth are being bred in captivity. Sub-species: Indian Python (Python molurus molurus) is an endangered species and requires a Federal permit to possess. Many Indian pythons in captivity are hybrids. Ceylonese python (P. m. pimbura) another rare subspecies. STATUS IN THE WILD: Wide spread throughout its range but diminishing in numbers. Used extensively for the skin trade. When encountered in the bush it is immediately killed for its skin, meat or the simple fact that it is a snake. SETUP Caging: Includes Neodesha, Vision reptile cages, aquariums, Freedom Breeder Rack systems (925) 838 - 2331 Top Notch!, plastic sweater boxes and custom built vivariums. Cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, ventilated, and hold heat to ensure proper temperatures. Avoid unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages; these surfaces are difficult to clean and disinfect. Refer to the Snake Caging care card. Heating: Variable setting under cage heating pads (used for people, never rest weight of cage on pad), thermostatically controlled lights and/or under cage heat strips, and hot rocks. Don't use a small hot rock for an animal that is proportionately larger; burns often result if the animal is forced to rest on this type of heat source. A heat source should warm 1/3 to 1/2 of the cage with a basking floor temperature of 88 - 92F. Use a thermometer! The unheated area should never drop below 73F. It may be necessary when using aquariums to cover part of the lid with plastic to maintain ideal temperatures. It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area (provides a heat gradient) so that the snake can thermoregulate. Caution should be used when using lamps. If the heat is extreme it may dry out the animal, and create health problems, kill or burn the animal. It is better to heat with an under cage heater and a lamp. Red lights are ideal for heating and don't disrupt the photoperiod. Avoid large wattage bulbs (100+watt) when possible. The heat provided is often too focused and may burn! Lighting: 12 hours on, 12 hours off, incandescent or fluorescent. Never leave visible lights on continuously, this causes stress. Furnishing: A water dish large enough to allow the animal to soak and located near the heat source. Always provide clean water, disinfect bowl weekly. A hide box or shelter in the heated end of the cage provides security. A hide box may also be provided in the cooler area; always locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security( hide box) and heat. Disinfect (bleach & rinse) branches and rocks since they may harbor ecto parasites. Substrates: Newspaper, paper towels, paper bags, or artificial grass are safe and inexpensive. Aspen bedding and cypress mulch also may be used, but it is advisable to feed on a different surface, since the bedding could lodge in the snake's mouth. Gravel, sand, mulch and shaving may cause health problems such as intestinal blockage, skin lesions and "mouth rot." Cedar is deadly to reptiles! Cleaning: A solution of water, detergent and 5% household bleach is safe and disinfects, rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water. FEEDING A baby burmese should begin feeding on weanling mice (21 days old) or rat crawlers. A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a locking plastic shoe box style container (with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour, then introducing a food item. At 3', the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 4', it is capable of consuming adult rats. Frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get, feed less often to slow the growth rate. Feed at least once every 10 days, when the snake begins feeding on large meals such as rabbits feeding can occur less frequently. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed warmed rodents at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by a rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animal's growth rate and condition and may occur every 3 - 6. African rock pythons may refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; it is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake's cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet! Provide food and water for any rodent left in the snake's cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6' it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents and move it to a feeding container prior to food offering. If moved to a feeding container for all feedings it may become conditioned not to expect food while in its' cage. This may reduce the possibility of being mistaken as a food item by an over zealous feeder. Best method is to place dead rodent in container and let snake discover it, encourages gentle food acquisition. Maintain accurate feeding and health records. Reluctant Feeders: May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts and appears to be wasting, consult a veterinarian or experienced herper. HANDLING Always support a snake's body; avoid fast movements. Do not treat the snake as a toy. Avoid techniques which restricts a snake's movement. Avoid public situations which draw attention to the animal since this is stressful to the animal and possibly your audience. Never wrap a snake around your neck! A nervous snake may occasionally bite; if biting occurs and is a problem, wear gloves. The handler must convince the snake that it is safe, trust must be learned. Snakes bite for two reasons: they have mistaken you as food or they are in fear for their safety. Snakes do not bite because they are mean. PROBLEMS 1) Respiratory infections manifest themselves as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites. To treat, increase the temperature to 90F and reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian. 2) Mouth rot manifest itself as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from the conditions of (1) and rubbing on rough surfaces, rodent bites and materials lodged in mouth. To treat, increase temperature to 90F, clean infected area with a solution of 1.5% hydrogen peroxide (dilute 50:50), remove loose material and swab with betadine 2X daily. If condition persist, medical attention is needed. 3) Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel. 4) Thermal burns and "Belly Rot" are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions. 5) Mites are small blood sucking ectoparasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black dots on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin, etc.). 6) Ticks are blood sucking ectoparasites that are often found on wild caught animals. Removal of ticks is achieved by a clockwise twisting of the parasite or suffocating the tick with vaseline until it dies in a few days and then removing. 7) Internal parasites can be a problem, especially with imported animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, and depression are all possible signs of a parasitic infestation. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites. Refer to the Snake Disorder care card.
