After you have set your chain adjuster bolts and are ready to tighten the rear axle, stick bunched up rag or towel between the chain and the rear sprocket teeth. Back the rear wheel up until it binds and then tighten the axle nuts. The wedged-in sprocket will pull the wheel all the way forward. It is also a good idea to use a chain alignment tool. The stock axel blocks are not an accurate indicator of proper chain aligment.
Tip # 2 Master Link Position
Always put the master link clip on so that the open end of the clip is not aimed in the direction of rotation. If the open end is aimed forward, the clip can catch on the chain guide, roots, or debris and pop off.
Tip # 3 Axle Care
When changing your rear wheel, stick your axle into the core of your bike's silencer. This way, the threads wont get dirty or damaged.
Tip # 4 Stud Removal
To remove cylinder studs from your cylinder, you can thread two nuts on to the stud and lock them together, then put your wrench on the lower nut and back the stud out of the cases.
Tip # 5 Rear Brake Pads
You don't have to remove the rear wheel on your bike to the change the brake pads. Pull the brake pins and pads will fall out with just a little coaxing.
Tip # 6 Bleed Your Froks
Heat, change of altitude and a hard moto session are just a few reasons that air pressure build up happens in your forks. The increase in air pressure will make your forks more stiff. Take the time to loosen the bleed screw on top of your fork legs to let the trapped air out.
Tip # 7 Hose Prep
Spray or lightly coat the inside of coolant hoses with silicone before installing the hoses. This makes assembly and disassembly easier...and don't over tighten the hose clamps.
Tip # 8 Air Screw
The air screw really only tells you if you are running the correct pilot jet. If your bike runs fine with the air screw turned all the way in you need a bigger pilot. If it runs fine with the air screw turned all the way out you need a smaller pilot.
Tip # 9 Breaking A Bead
Breaking the bead when changing a tire is really simple if you do it right. Simply push one tire iron down on a knob on the sidewall while pulling the other one up towards you.
Tip # 10 Rim Strip
Scrap the stock rubber rim strip. Use a thin layer of duct tape instead. This will prevent unwanted flats from loose nipples.
Tip # 11 Tube Lock Nut
Tighten the tubes lock nut against its valve cap instead of against the rim. If the tube shifts at all during riding, it can pull the valve from the tube, causing an instant flat. Or Honda has a rubber grommet that will keep dirt out of your tire and still allow the valve stem to move.
Tip # 12 Save A Perch or Lever or Both
By rapping the handlebar with Teflon tape where you intend to mount your brake and clutch levers you will save a few broken levers and maybe a perch. The key here is apply a thin layer of Teflon tape and tighten the perch enough so you can adjust it with the pressure from you hand. Do not use the T-handle death grip here.
Tip # 13 Clean the air filter
Clean and oil the air filter every time you ride in dusty conditions. Even if you don't ride in dusty conditions, check to see the oil hasn't settled to the bottom of the filter. Your bike will run better, and the engine will feel fresher and tighter for a longer period of time.
Tip # 14 Seat Cover
While you want to be able to move back and forth on the seat cover for optimum body positioning, you don't want to slip around every time you open or shut the throttle. Most standard seat covers offer little traction when wet, so the wise rider will invest in a gripper seat covert to save energy and avoid monkey butt. Before installing any seat cover spray the underside with Kiwi Camp Dry (Scotch guard will work, too) which helps keep water from getting to the foam, extending it's life substantially.
Tip # 15 Tire Pressure
This may not seem like the most important tip in the world to you, but we beg to differ. Keeping a constant watch on your bikes tire pressure is more important than anything else on your bike except mixing the gas with premix. You should check your tire pressure every time before you ride. We recommend running 14 psi in the front and 12 psi in the rear.
Tip # 16 Check Those Spokes!
Checking the spokes on any bike is important, but you need to pay a little extra attention when the bike is brand new. For at least a few rides the spokes will loosen up on a constant basis. If you don't want out of round wheels we suggest you tighten them regularly. We suggest using the Fasst company spoke torque wrench to keep you wheels in good shape.
Tip # 17 Save your grips
BBy putting a nickel inside the handle bar grip before putting the grip on saves the edge of the grip by giving it a flatter surface when it digs in the dirt during a fall.
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