Surfing is rad but bodyboarding is pure unadulterated fun. Bodyboarders can do more moves in any type of wave, we guess that's why spongers always seem more stoked than our resin friends.
History of bodyboarding...
| Tom Morey invented the bodyboard after breaking his surfboard. He couldn't afford to buy a new one so he tried to invent a new method of riding waves. Morey found that the combination of foam and newspaper made a water-tight and buoyant board, without the mess of fiberglass and resin. He came up with the prototype of the modern bodyboard. It was 12" wide, with rounded front edges for an easy grip and tapered boat-like rails, enabling the skeg-less traverse across a wave. The demand for his boards outweighed his home factory setup. He then developed Tom Morey & Company Inc. Soon companies and organizations such as TBC, Custom X and Broady International appeared and bodyboarding grew to as it is today. |  |
Listed here are the main features of design with descriptions of the effect they have on the performance of the board. It is worth knowing about and looking at a number of these factors when purchasing a new board. Refer to the figure above for the various descriptions.
Getting these measurements right is essential for rail to rail maneuvering. Ideally, the wide point should sit just behind your elbows so that water is dispersed behind your initial maneuvering points; elbows, forearms, hands and head. Having your wide point in front of your elbows will encourage nose diving and spray, hindering your vision.
Nose Width
The width of the nose plays a role in water displacement, speed and maneuverability. A narrow nose creates more down the line speed whilst a wider nose creates better maneuverability and a larger pivot area for spinning. Generally a wider nose board is more suited for prone riding, allowing you to get further up on the board for trimming while a narrower nose is better for dropkneeing when your weight is further back.
Length
The taller the rider, the longer the board should be. Ideally the board, when standing upright, should come up to your belly button. If you tend to ride smaller waves then the board can be a little longer while if you ride bigger waves the board can afford to be shorter. Longer boards with more buoyancy tend to suit heavier riders though they can not maneuver as tightly.
Tail Width
The right tail width is important for ensuring board stability. A wide tail provides more speed and projection whilst a narrower tail provides more maneuverability and better tube riding.
Nose Kick
The nose kick of the board is the rise in angle of the bottom of the board starting about a third of the way down from the nose. The nose kick on a board influences the maneuverability and speed of a board. A low kick allows the board to move across the water with the least resistance giving greater speed over the water. A high kick creates more resistance but provides more responsive turns and clears a greater area of the board for spinning.
Tail Kick
The greater the tail lift, the slower the board will be. Tail lift stops the
flow of water along the rails and over the bottom of the board creating drag on
the board. Greater tail lift does however aid in releasing your edge for quicker
spins.
This is just a guide to give you some help when buying a new board.
Bodyboarding gear
Fins
Fins are one of the most important pieces of equipment in a bodyboarder’s arsenal. If a pair of fins is too loose then they will give less power, cause sore feet due to the excessive movement and can come off easily if hit by a wave. If fins are too tight then they will rub causing blisters and can also cause cramps. Remember that fins with larger, stiffer blades will be harder to kick with but give you more propulsion. With these things in mind, it is very important to purchase the right size fin. Your style of surfing, either prone or dropknee or both, can dictate the shape of fins that you should be wearing.
Leashes & Plugs
There are a number of different types of leashes that can be used with bodyboarding. There are coiled wrist leashes, coiled (upper) arm leashes and straight leg leashes.
Installing a leash is a simple operation that can be carried out in the store when you buy the board or at home. To attach the plug at home you need a screwdriver (preferably a Phillip's head) or a similar thin, sharp object. You can, if you wish, heat up the screwdriver. This helps to seal the deck and core, stopping it from getting water logged. Choose the position that you want to install the plug, making sure it is not too close to the rail, and push the instrument through the board starting from the slick side. Ideally the hole should be perpendicular to the surface of the board and not be too large. You can now screw (using a coin) the two-sided plug into position until both sides are flush with the surface of the board. Make sure that female side is on the deck so that you can attach your leash.
There are a few
different spots on a board that you can put a plug (refer to diagram below). For
surfing prone, the plug will usually be on either the front left or right side
though some people like to have the plug in the middle of the front of the
board. If you like to paddle with your right hand then you would probably have
the leash on your left hand and the plug also on your left hand. If you prefer
to paddle with your left hand then you would use the reverse setup.
Webs and socks
Fin socks are an option to help stop rubbing, keep your feet warm or bring the size of your feet up to fit your fin better. There are two main varieties of fin socks; neoprene and lycra. Webs are for those times when you need that little extra bit of propulsion. Webs are especially useful for those long sessions in large swell when your legs are beginning to cramp and you need your arms to do a bit more of the work.
Lycra (rashie)
The lycra t-shirt is a must. It is useful for a lot of stuff and it is not expensive, so there's no excuse for not having one. One of it functions is to protect you against solar radiations, some of this rashies even have UV protection. It also protects you from the wind and from the (not too) cold water. It prevents the irritation caused by the board on the chest and is also used under the neoprene wetsuit so that you don't finish irritated in the zones were there is excessive movement (neck, armpit, etc).
Bodyboard Bag
Always
look for quality construction when buying a bag for your boards. Piped seams are
stronger. Buy a lighter colour or reflective bag to reflect heat & prevent
your boards from warping. Padded bags give excellent protection, they cost a bit
more but save you money in the long run. However you should never overpack your boardbag as this can cause the zip to pull on the nose of
the board causing damage & warping of your prize board.
