Suspension and Stuff
A Simple Guide to
Suspension..... and Stuff
by Chris Phillips We shall start with the very basics....
.
The MotorcycleA bike is able to move through this world as it
does courtesy of something called the gyroscopic effect, whereby a rotating
wheel creates a force ("centrifugal"...which is often mistaken for
"centripetal", which relates to a force tending towards the centre ) which
travels from it's centre to it's edge, thus keeping it upright.
When the
wheel is forced off it's axis, some of that force is then transferred
laterally...dragging it inward. On a bikethis transfer is achieved by
countersteering and weight-transfer. Countersteering is normally done
subconsciously by the rider and occurs when, say in a lefthand corner, the
lefthand handlebar is pushed lightly forward, this allows the bike to fall into
the corner..the harder you push the further it will fall. The gyro effect will
keep the bike at that angle and along with it's overall mass as it's leant into
the corner, will cause the turn. The steeper the angle, the more the turn.
Weight-transfer is achieved by the rider moving their weight inward or
weighting the inside footpeg, causing the bike to also fall into the corner. To
exit the corner the opposite proceedure is followed. Remember Penny when I got
you to hold the wheel of Jason's bike and spin it, then try to move the wheel
off it's axis. Well that weird force you experienced was gyro effect..*S*. At
very low speeds, steering is achieved by simply turning the front wheel in the
desired direction of travel (dare I say it, as per a car), as the wheels aren't
spinning fast enough to allow for enough gyro effect. But at anything above
this, all cornering momentum is achieved by the above mentioned effect, combined
with weight-transfer. The Suspension OK..in a perfect world with perfect roads,
we wouldn't need suspension...in fact, bikes would corner much better if they
didn't have suspension, but obviously with things the way they are, we NEED to
have some form of suspension. First of all to comfort the rider, but more
importantly, to keep the wheels in contact with the road at all times (except
over railway lines..) and the steering free from lateral shocks. This is why
racebikes on smooth racetracks can afford to run much harder suspension
settings. This saps less of the cornering momentum, which helps increase corner
speed. Harder suspension also greatly increases rider "feel", because he/she is
more directly connected to the wheels. Unfortunately, when a bike is leant into
a corner, suspension performance will always be compromised, because the forces
caused by road irregularities are now not acting vertically upon the suspension
components and in turn not all the force is being absorbed by the suspension.
Now the art (and sometimes it can be a bit of a "black art") to correct
suspension adjustment is to marry enough suppleness to ensure the wheel follows
all the contours of the road and is not subject to "bounce", with adequate
hardness to stop excessive suspension travel and spring "bottom out" (i.e fully
compressed, thus returning to a no suspension situation). This balancing act can
be achieved though a number of suspension settings....spring rate, preload,
compression and rebound damping and linkage adjustment. But before we go there,
just a quick foray into unsprung weight and steering
geometry.
Unsprung Weight Often forgotten, but an important factor
in suspension performance. Unsprung weight, as the name suggests, is all the
components which are not sprung ..i.e. everything "below" the
suspension.....such as wheels, brakes, mudguards, fork legs, swingarm and
suspension linkage (incidentally this is why "upsidedown forks"..as per ummm
let's say an
ST4, are
popular at the moment..there is less fork on the unsprung side of the spring,
thus less weight. Another positive aspect is there is less flex, because the
lower section of an upsidedown fork is shorter, which results in less leverage
acting upon the fork seals..therefore a more free seal can be used, resulting in
less stiction and more fork suppleness.. phew...what a mouth-full ( btw
racebikes and some more upmarket sportsbikes use gold titanium nitrided fork
tubes as it slides better through the fork seals than chrome ). Unfortunately
the tradeoff is the overall weight of an upsidedown fork is usually greater and
as a general rule they cost more...sorry class, went off on a bit of a tangent
there... back to unsprung weight). So the lighter you can make these unsprung
components, the less inertia they create when in motion, resulting in better
wheel control. Lighter springs can also be used to gain that all important
"suppleness" over smaller bumps I mentioned earlier. This is why racebikes use
those super expensive Marvic or Marchesini wheels... yes, they do add to overall
weight saving, but mainly it is for their reduction in unsprung weight and
quicker steering response.
Steering GeometryJust while we are
here..a quick explanation of some of it's terms. Steering geometry is complex
and very interrelated, so I'll just touch on it here. For this, it's a classic
case of, "a picture tells a thou...........", but I shall do my level best to
make it coherent. OK..for the purposes of this exercise I want you to picture
looking at the bike in direct side view.
Rake Run a centreline through
the tube of the steering head ( I'm sure you all know where that is, but just in
case..it's the part of the frame, where the forks pivot ), continue that line
until it reaches the ground..now run another line downward from the middle of
the steering head perpendicular to the ground...those two lines intersect and
form an angle, that angle is the rake, typically around 24 degrees. Rake is
necessary to give the bike inherent stability. Because the forks need to be free
to turn, they need to be angled to give some stability, by virtue of the wheel
now acting through two planes. The more the angle, the more the stability, but
the slower the steering. If the forks where at 90 degrees to the ground ( 0 rake
), you'd be over the handlebars and on your bum before you could
blink.
Trail For this we need that centreline through the steering
head again. From the spot where that line meets the ground..to the point where
the wheel contacts the ground, is the trail...it's normally around 90mm. The
less the trail, the quicker the steering.
Triple Clamp Offset The triple
clamp is the device which attaches the forks to the steering head. OK..back to
that good ol' centreline through the steering head again....now draw a
centreline down the fork tube. Remembering we are in side view here and the
front wheel is not turned. The distance between these two lines is the offset.
Offset effects the trail, the more the offset, the less the trail. I realise I
didn't go into much detail here, but this lesson is about suspension after
all..so let's get back to it......
What I'm about to say applies to both
wheels equally, except when we start talking about suspension
linkage.
Spring Preload There seems to be some misunderstanding out
there about preload. Some are under the misnomer that preload can be used to
make the overall suspension performance, softer or firmer...this is not strictly
the case. In fact the only way this can be achieved is to replace the spring
with one of a different gauge. What preload does do, is allow adjustment of the
amount of suspension sag the bike is subject to, after the mass of the bike (
with rider ) is applied. Sag is important in the scheme of things, it negates
suspension "top out" and thus allows the wheels to "fall" into holes and keeps
the front wheel on the ground under acceleration ( yeah right, who am I kiddin'
! )..etc.
It's optimum to have both ends of the bike with the same preload,
to test this, see if the bike dips equally when downward pressure is applied to
somewhere near the centre of the bike..the seat perhaps. Most modern sports
bikes should run around 30mm of sag. The typical treaded collar (and lock nut)
on the rear spring and the large hexagonal nut on the top of the fork, used to
adjust preload ( and without going too much into spring dynamics here ) only
work on the first part of spring's compression, that part being approximately
equal to the mass of the motorcycle. Sure, if you could wind that adjustment way
down, it would make the suspension appreciably harder, but all you are really
doing is reducing the amount of travel and the ability of the suspension to cope
with small bumps, normally the domain of that first section of spring, now lost
to the preload adjustment.
Damping There are two forms of
this..compression and rebound. But first a brief explanation of damping per se.
If the spring was allowed to work unhindered in it's movement, we would all end
up doing an animated "pogo dance" down the road. Some sort of control on the
spring was needed, enter the "shock absorber "or "damper". When a spring is
compressed, potential energy is created, this is in turn converted into kinetic
energy as the spring rebounds. Left unchecked, it leads to an oscillation of the
spring. The damper slows down and smoothes this movement. This is achieved by
passing oil through two small valves in the body of the shock or fork as the
damper is compressed orextended. As oil is viscous, passing it through this
valve absorbs some of energy produced as the suspension moves. Unfortunately as
the oil is forced through the valve, it creates friction, which of course leads
to heat... the bane of all shock absorbers. Excessive heat causes the oil to
thin, leading eventually to shock "fade"( this is more typical of rear
suspension, which has to handle power loadings also ). Heat also makes the oil
more conducive to frothing.
To try and alleviate the heat problem, shock
manufacturers now add remote reservoirs and sometimes even finning to their
products. The reservoir adds to the volume of oil in the shock and also provides
a cooling function, thus helping to bring down the overall temperature.They also
discovered that by pressurising the interior of the shock body with a gas ( just
plain air at first, but now mostly nitrogen ) it stops the frothing from
occuring, because the oil is now under constant pressure.
Just a small
proviso to what follows....the damping adjustment available on the exterior of
the shock, only pertains to the low speed adjustment....i.e. when the piston
inside the shock is at low speed..for example..at the initial movement of the
suspension.
For high speed adjustment, shims ( thin washers ) inside the
shock need to be physically replaced with ones of a different thickness.
Compression DampingProbably the lesser of the two adjustments (
some tourers and less exotic machinery don't bother with compression
adjustment...course, on Harleys you get no concession to damping adjustment
period....2010 model release, maybe??? ).
Adjustment for compression damping
at the rear is normally found on the remote reservoir, in the form of a knob
with graduated "clicks" and on upsidedown forks as a screw adjustment at the
base of the fork leg, near the axle.
This adjustment allows some compensation
for the variables the suspension is likely to encounter....pillions
(huh..pillions, what are they ? ), gear carrying ( please..don't make me laugh
), different riding styles and locations, etc.
Also if the spring is
substituted for one of another rate, the damping may need some tuning. The
factory settings are normally somewhere in the middle ( this goes for rebound
too ) and the adjustment allows the damping to become either harder or softer (
also sometimes referred to as "slower" or "faster" ).
As explained earlier,
damping helps control wheel movement, the result of such things as road
irregularities, cornering, power delivery and braking. Compression damping deals
with the initial movement, as the wheel movesupwards and the spring is
compressed ( unless you ride a Buell...and do it backwards, they use the spring
like a rubber band..got some funny ideas those Yanks..seems to work though ).
The idea here is to have the wheel's movement slowed down enough to be under
control and therefore not likely to bottom out, but not too slow so as the
suspension does not have time to react to different loadings. If this was to
become the case, the whole bike would tend to "kick in the air", as most of the
energy involved is being absorbed by the bike and not the suspension. When
replacing the springs of either the forks or rear shock with harder items, it is
common practice to soften the compression damping..and vice versa applies for a
softer spring.
Rebound DampingRebound damping, yes..you
guessed it, controls the spring in it's rebound cycle. An important one this,
unless you enjoy being launched skyward every time you negotiate a bump of any
substance. As you can imagine, a spring when compressed has an abundance of
energy just waiting to burst forth, after the load is released. This released
energy is contolled by the rebound damping and again it slows the downward
moving wheel, bringing itback to position in one smooth, controlled motion. Not
enough rebound and you are faced with that "pogo dance" ...too much and the
suspension can' t react quickly enough to keep the wheel in contact with the
road. Too much rebound also contributes to "squat" or "pack down"....this being
a situation where the suspension can't extend to it's original position with
enough speed, causing the rear of the bike dip. An excess of rebound, in
combination with too little compression damping can lead to the dreaded and
infamous, " fork chatter" over series of small bumps (usually under
brakes).
Adjustment for rebound is provided to enable the suspension to cope
with the same variables mentioned above for compression damping. For upsidedown
forks it can be found as a screw adjustment on the top of the forks and on the
rear it is usually at the base of the shock, just below the spring. Unlike
compression damping tuning, when changing to a different gauge spring...if it is
a harder spring, the rebound damping is normally increased. For conventional
forks the location for damping adjustment is reversed...ie...compression on top
and rebound at the base of the forks. OK....almost done, just one more to
go.....
Rear Suspension LinkageMost modern sportsbikes offer
some sort of adjustment in the linkage which attaches the rear shock to the
swingarm and frame.
Back in the dim dark days of "twin shock" and
"cantilever" rear suspension, the spring and shock absorber were attached
directly to the swingarm and frame, thus as the swingarm pivoted upwards it
worked linearly on the shock and spring. The further the swingarm rose, the more
it compressed the spring, but only at a constant rate. The best they could
manage back then was to use a progressively wound spring, where the softer
section of the spring copes with small road irregulaities, giving a more supple
ride. You can still sometimes find progressive springs fitted to front forks,
where a linkage system is unable to be used because of the forks need to pivot.
So in the quest for more compliant and sophisticated rear suspension,
designers discovered by adding a linkage between the shock and it's mounting
points, they could take advantage of the laws of leverage..."rising rate"
suspension was born. As the swingarm rises it's movement starts to compress the
spring, but by adding a pivoting T-link ( the most common these days ) to the
top of the shock, the link also starts to compress the spring, only this time in
an exponential curve... thus compressing the spring at an ever increasing
rate.
Some manufacturers have taken this system even one step further by
adding another linkage to the bottom of the shock where it attaches to the
swingarm...
Suzuki's "Full Floater" for
instance ( yeah P..think you got one of them..*S* ). With this set up the shock
has no direct mounting, so hence the name.
Another advantage of rising rate
suspension is that you can use a softer spring..soft in the initial stage, where
there is little leverage, which is required for small bumps, but when a heavy
load is applied, the ever increasing rate of compression allows the spring to
reach a point where it is hard enough to cope with the load ( hope that makes
sense...
it's difficult to explain without a diagram ). Using a linkage
system also has the added benefit of longer travel suspension... a little
increase in the length of the shock, equates to a large increase at the wheel.
By adding a number of offset holes at the top of the "T" where it mounts to the
frame, it allows for adjustment to the amount of rising rate inherent in the
system. Having a linkage system also makes ride height adjustment easy. By
simply making the pushrod arm adjustable, ride height can be varied by
increasing or decreasing it's length. Adding to the ride height at the rear
increases ground clearance but also effects the steering geometry, by
effectively steepening the angle of the front forks, thus decreasing the
rake.
So it would seem the best approach to this myriad of adjustments, is to
start at the factory settings ( noting them down ). If you are not comfortable
with these, use incremental variations, both alone and in combination, till you
achieve something that feels right for you.
Ok well there it is. I don't
pretend to be any sort of "guru", it's just stuff I've picked up over the years.
Suspension tuning is a bit of a black art, a lot of it is subjective...ask ten
different people and probably get ten different answers. A lot of it you may
already know, maybe all of it.... it's difficult to know where to start, but
anyway I just hope you enjoyed reading it.
Chris
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Angelfire.
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