This will take a bit of time to type! Last updated 19/07/10
FRIDAY 26th FEBRUARY 2010
Took 3 attempts to pack my rucksack - as someone put it it's like 80 litres of kit in a 60 litre rucksack! I seemed to be rushing about all day getting things done. I'm excited about going but also feel a bit of fear - I've never been anywhere like this myself for this length of time. Okay I went to New Zealand myself but I met people there, and it's not exactly any old country being Kathmandhu! Dad came to stay as he's taking me to the airport plus he was painting at my other house. Annoyingly it started to snow in the evening and it was landing! Dad told me to put petrol in my Subaru in case it was bad snow in the morning. Went to bed about 8.45pm, though didn't get to sleep until about 9.15pm. Fluffy (my cat!) must have known I'm going away because she slept all night on the floor at the bottom of my bed (she normally goes in her own bed in the study) - I'm going to miss her clambering over me in my bed and dribbling in my face!
SATURDAY 27th FEBRUARY 2010
I woke up at 1.30am, got up and looked out the window. It had stopped snowing and wasn't on the road which I was glad of. Was almost tempted to get up later than my planned time of 4am. When my alarm did go off at 4am I didn't want to get up! I looked out the window and was shocked to see that not only was it heavy snow but the road was covered in deep snow too! Thank goodness for the Subaru! I got Dad up and then went for my final shower in civilisation! Fed Fluffy, went out and recorded the snow, got all my kit together, then Dad and I left at 4.45am. Dad drove my Subaru - glad I got that car or I couldn't have gone because the roads were AWFUL and the visiblity really poor with the heavy snow (later found out my Subaru had over-heated on the way back.. THANK GOODNESS that hadn't happened on the way!). We arrived at Edinburgh airport at 5.20am. I had already checked-in on-line so that saved a lot of time. Went through security at back of 6am (didn't set it off for once!). Oh and my rucksack, despite feeling really heavy, only weighed 17.4kg!! Think of all the rocks I'll be able to bring back from Everest with an allowance of 30kg!! We were on quite a small BMI plane from Edinburgh - it was only 3 seats across, and there were only 11 of us on the whole plane! We were meant to take-off at 7.10am but we didn't take off until 7.50am as they had to de-ice the plane! I don't like flying so they could take as long as they needed to de-ice in my opinion! Got a crossaint, juice and a cup of tea on the plane, and 40 minutes later we had landed in Manchester.
In Manchester I had quite a long walk with both my rucksacks to Terminal 2. Then had to sit about for just over an hour until the check-in desk opened at 10.30am. Felt really tired. Also my stomach is already sore and bruised (to a black colour almost!) from taking the blood-thinning injections (Fragmin) for my leg.
Then had to kill time as my flight to Doha didn't leave til 2pm! I looked round and then relazed on one of the big leather massage chairs (without having a massage!) . I got on the plane (flying with Qatar) and had a seat quite near the front and on the right hand side (so my bypass leg could stretch into the aisles). I also put on my sexy WHITE (out the hospital!) DVT stockings! The only annoying thing about my seat was I was immediately behind the "children under 5" row and they were all screaming!
The flight was pretty smooth which was good because I don't like flying especially if there's turbulence! On the plane I was next to an old guy (I thought in his early 70's) - John - from Yorkshire but now lives in Australia. He was telling me he's been to Everest Base Camp and done Kilimanjaro. He then shocked me by telling me he was 87!! and has been travelling since he retired. He shocked me further by saying he still regularly does parachute jumps!
On the plane we flew at just above 36,000ft and had a 100mph tail wind most of the way, maining we landed at Doha half-an-hour early - 2330 hours (2030 hours UK time). In Doha it was 22 degrees Celcius despite the time! Felt the heat as stepped off the plane as had to go out and onto a bus. It was a long bus ride back to the terminal. The terminal was the shape of an actual palace with a little modern bit attached - there's obviously money here! Inside it was pandamonia as the whole plane load of people had to go through about 4 rows of security!
SUNDAY 28th FEBRUARY 2010
Doha airport was quite fancy but I was hattered so I went upstairs to find the "Quiet Rooms" I'd been told about. There were two rooms with 20 lounger style chairs for people to go in in silence and have a sleep. I found a free one fairly quickly and mangaged to get a couple of hours sleep. The odd thing was the room had a glass panel to the front so everyone walking by could see in. About 0430 hours (0130 hours UK) I took my 3rd blood-thinning injection - my stomach is already black and blue so it was painful having to take another one.
Got the buses onto the runway and boarded the plane for Kathmandu at 6.25am (local time). Only trouble is we never took off until about 8am (local time) as we were waiting on passengers coming in from a Dubai flight. This time I was sat next to a guy from Canada who was going to trek up Annapurna. After a flight of about 4 hours we arrived at Kathmandhu (Kathmandhu are 2 hours 45 mins ahead of Doha, 5 hours 45 mins ahead of UK). The reason for the random 45 mins is because Nepal apparently wanted to be different from India.
I was very glad I had got my visa in advance as I got straight through unlike the other people who were getting their visas at the airport. Then went to wat looked like a bit of an upmarket shed to get my bag. I was glad I'd been warned not to panic if it took a whilte as it took ages to come off, to the point I thought it wasn't coming! Dharma (guide) met me at the airport as planned and people were trying to get me to go with them as I expected. Dharman was with a driver and we went over to their car (also right-hand-drive here). Just before I got into the car Dharma put a silk gold scarf around my neck and said "welcome to nepal" which I thought was nice! We then drove through Kathmandhu to the hotel.
Today is the Colour (Holy) Festival in Kathmandhu where people fill water balloons with paint and throw them at each other! It used to only be red paint but now there are many other colours. I saw lots of people with red paint on their faces and other colours on their heads!
Driving through Kathmandhu I was surpised by how poor and run down and backward it is, I didn't expect that. Most of the buildings are falling down. There are also a lot of soldiers. We passed a palace but Dharma told me that as Nepal no longer has a monarchy the palace is a museum (they now have a president). It was still guarded by soldiers. Driving through Kathmandhu was a hair-raising experience - there don't seem to be any rules other than you ROUGHLY drive on your side of the road! (same side as UK). There were goats, people, dogs, children, cars, motorbikes with several people on each with no helmets and not even sitting on properly, and piles of rubbish all about the place. At junctions and roundabout no-one slows down or stops, they all just toot the horn and hope the other person will move out the way! We also passed places with goats tied up outside and other goats being slaughtered and skinned in public view. It was horrible.
The hotel is basic and weill take getting used to. There was no power when I arrived. Kathmandhu buy their electricity from India and can't always afford it. I was advised not to go out and get caught in the cross-fire of the colour festival so I sorted my kit out and had a lie down for an hour. My room has a balcony. It was 24 degrees C today which I wasn't expecting.
I met Kris (nepalise guy in charge of my trip) in the hotel foyer at 6.30pm and he recommended I change my US dollars for Nepalese Rupee at the hotel (about 105 rupees to the pound I think). I don't really know how many it is to the pound (113?) so I'm not really sure just how much stuff is, although I know it's cheap. Kris recommended the Kilroy for tea so I waslked there and had an Everest lager and peeled the label off the bottle as a souvenier! I had Mutton rogan josh which was nice, rice and Nan bread. One of the Nepalise waiters was telling me his motorbike got taken by the police today as he had 3 passengers on it which he shouldn't have. I'm surprised there are police here - you wouldn't think it! Used internet for free in the hotel today to update my website. The power is to be off at 0814 tomorrow so sat on balcony and wrote diary and went to bed about 9pm, on my bed with a rock of a pillow, to the sound of cars tooting, dogs barking and music playing loudly - where are the police?!
MONDAY 1st MARCH 2010
Lesson number one! Ignore the chart of predicted power-cut times! It said 8.14am so although I was really tired I got up at 7.30am to have a shower. I had just stepped into the shower when, you guessed it, the power went off! The water was still hot it was just very dark!!
I went for breakfast - toast that was cold, an old banana, and rank tea! Also some scrambled egg... can't believe I got up for that! :) I then went back to my room and had a lie down. I set my alarm for 9.30am as I was due to meet Kris at 10am. Only trouble was I must have fallen asleep after my alarm because I was awoken by staff knocking on my door!
I went downstairs and apologised for being late - must have been the jet lag! Kris introduced me to my city guide "Boota" (don't know of spelling but that's how it was pronounced!). We went in car and drove to the area of Patan where we looked round some interesting temples - Hindu and Buddha from 11th and 12th century - they were very detailed and interesting. Also saw prayer wheels which I was told you have to turn clockwise with your right hand. Also in some squares Boota couldn't stand on because he had leather shoes. Also had a laugh at one square as some children came up to me and asked for some chocolate. I said I didn't have any, they they became fascinated by my video camera! One jumped in front of it and started showing his muscles which made both him and I laugh! We then drove to another square through the mad traffic!
Saw some gold leaf strips which came down from the roof of the temples. These are said to be the gods reaching down to the earth and the people climb up this "highway" to go to heaven. We then drove up an off-road track to the industry making area. Here I saw people hand-carving wooden beds, masks, etc. Some of the more detailed carvings can take as long as 35 months to complete! I bought a Nepalise mask there.
We then drove back to the hotel for about 1.30pm where Boota dropped me off. I then went for a daunder around the stalls and bought an Everest Base Camp map and poster. I had lunch - some chicken thing and chips at the Kilroy restaurant out on the roof-top. I headed back to the hotel where Santa (another guide) met me at 3pm. Santa took me to the Trekking Encounters office in Thamel. It was nice to meet Santa having heard so much about him. Santa has been to Everest Base Camp "more than 40 times"!!
I met Kris at the office. He was explaining that when there is a power-cut there is also no phone reception (I had thought that!). Had tea (cup of) with Kris and discussed our plans. He was saying the fake mountaineering gear in Nepal would last 1-2 years.
Also meant to say that whilst out with Boota we went to a shop with "singing bowls" - these are hand-made copper bowls which they hit with gong things. The vibrations caused are said to heal any sore parts of your body! The man asked me to follow the gong thing as he ran it round the rim of the bowl - this is said to relax your eyes! He then asked me to take a seat, before placing the bowl on my head, telling me to close my eyes, and hitting it with the gong several times! This meant to help headaches. I didn't have a headache but played along and tried not to laugh!
After meeting Kris, Santa took me to get my passport photos taken as I need two for my mountaineering permits. I then daundered through the streets before taking a rickshaw back to the hotel. The old man said 100 Nepalise Rupees (NR) (just under £1) but I never had my hotel card and that, coupled with my Scottish accent, meant he had no idea where he was going! It was a bit scarey as he, and anyone else he asked, had no idea where we were, and neither did I! Lesson 2 - always take hotel card out with me! Eventually got to hootle where he asked for 300 NR (I gave that as he had worked hard! just under £3). In the hotel I met a woman who has been travelling in Nepal for about a year. She is a retired police officer from America. She recommended the Gia (not sure of spelling) restaurant so I went there for tea. I had an Everest beer, a coke, and the best Chicken Satay I have evern had for only 525 NR (about £4.50). Far better, and cheaper, than the Kilroy. I then went for another daunder round the stalls before getting a rickshaw in the dark (with my card - but double as scary!) back to my hotel for 200 NR (just under £2).
At the hotel there was another power cut so I sat outside and did my video diary. The guy who runs the Fuji Hotel was outside. I chatted to him and then we saw a lot of lightening. Out of no-where came a massive hail storm with hail the size of large garden peas! It was also quite windy so I ran for shelter. A Nepalise man did too but slipped on the ice and fell over. It was then heavy rain. Then had a laugh as the guy who runs the hotel tried to access someone's computer with finger-print recognition. He didn't seem to understand that it didn't matter which finger he tried it wasn't going to work!!
Also turns out the reason for all the power-cuts is because Nepal is suffering its worst drought in 7 months - the power is normally powered by hydro so because the rivers are low it's harder to get this.
TUESDAY 2nd MARCH 2010
Met a girl from Australia, Elodie, and a couple Lone and John, who are now also coming on the trek. Spent all day visiting temples, saw monkies at monkey temple and saw people being cremated by the river which was horrible. Round side of temple at pigeon temples saw scenes of naked people - Nepalise sex education - called Kama-Sutra. Went to Dubqar Square. Also saw Kumari - the living godess - four and a half yeaer old child with make-up who appeared at window for 2 seconds. Not allowed to take photo of her but still expected donation! She stays there til menustration.
Had lunch out then got gear ready for expedition. Today's entry short cos lots to do, going out for Nepalise meal and got to leave at 5.15am!
Went to a local place for a Nepalise meal and cultural show. We didn't know about the show, or how the meal would be, so very annoyingly none of us had our cameras. When we went in a spot of red paint stuff was put on our forehead - a symbol of good luck. We then sat on cushions on the floor around the table. First of all we had some rice wine, which was like drinking some sort of spirit straight! We had an Everest beer as our general drink. Our first course was spicy potatoes, then chicken momos (which I love!) - chicken which is spicy within a light pastry and steamed (like dumplings?). Next course was Dahl and rice which was served on a big silver plate, and was rice, chicken curry, vegetable curry, spinach, pickle (which was disgusting!) and black lentils in hot water which you poured over the rice. For pudding we had lemon curd flavour yoghurt with a cherry in it. Various Nepalise music and dancing was put on show (the dancing being like the Nepalise version of Morris Dancing!). There was then someone in a peacock outfit with proper peacock feathers for the tail - it pecked on people's heads, including mine! We left about 9pm and went back to the hotel before packing my bags for the expedition and trying to get osme sleep - all 6 hours of it as there was an annoying alarm going off near by!
WEDNESDAY 3rd MARCH 2010
Got up at 4.30am, ran the shower for about 10 minutes, and managed to get some hot water! Amazingly there was a working bathroom light at this time! Got my expedition gear together and then went down into the hotel lobby to wait for Dharma and Santa (our guides). Also found out that the hail storm we had had was very unusual for this time of the year - usually happens July / August time.
We were picked up at the hotel by two TINY Suzuki car taxis. It wasn't much bigger inside than an old style Mini! One of the taxis didn't have any lights on, despite it being dark, but apparently this is usual! Had the usual hair-raising drive along the busy, bumpy roads. Got to Kathmandhu domestic flights departure at about 5.30pm. As soon as we stopped a load of Nepalise men ran to the back of our car, opened the boot and grabbed all the bags. I wasn't sure if they were meant to take them and when I found out they shouldn't it took a bit of convincing to get the bags back! We only had to queue for a short time before going through "security" - it wasn't much, the woman was reading a newspaper when I went through! We had to pay 170 NR (just over £1) departure tax which we hadn't been told about. we then went to a bit where guards were meant to be searching through your hand luggage - all she did was unclip the buckles and put her hand in and out!!
The flight from Kathmandhu to Lukla was due to leave at 6.30am however I was told this is not always necessarily the case, it depends on the clouds. Lukla does not have navigational systems at the airstrip, they just judge things on the state of the clouds (a whole plane load died when this was judged wrongly at Lukla in october 2008). About 6.15am we got a shout to go to the bus for flight 101 with Agni Air to go to Lukla. We had to sit in the bus by the plane for about 20 minutes as the cloud state had apparently deterioated (i can't spell!). It made me laugh as the plane crew were making cups of tea under the plane wing! A short time later we boarded theplane which had a single row of seats down both the left and right hand sides. There were 10 of us on the 19 seater. We were given cotton wool for our ears and a sweet to suck and then took off. Thankfully there was only a small amount of turbulence. I had been advised to sit on the lft side of the plane which I did and saw some great views of the mountains. At times it felt like the plane was just skimming the tops of the mountains due to the height of them! At Lukla the airport had a very short looking runway (350m). I filmed through the cockpit but we just suddenly lost height to land and came down with quite a thump!
We stopped at a hotel in Lukla for some breakfast (all food included in trek cost). we then watched a plane take off from Lukla aiport - right on the mountain edge - mental!
It was an absolutely roasting day - again not waht had been expected at all. We trekked for 3 hours before reaching our teahouse for the night, the Green Village Guesthouse, which is at just over 8,000ft.
The scenery - mountains and river were amazing. The path was interesting as it passed through a lot of little communities with people in their gardens and children in their uniform going to school - it was quite surreal in somewhere as wild and remote as the Himalayas! I found the walking okay today other than a couple of the steeper sections where, due to my bypass, I found it harder to keep up with the rest of the group (I was expecting to do this expedition myself, not with others). Also saw a number of Yaks and remembered to keep to the inside of the mountain to avoid any of them nudging me off the edge! They have bells to warn you they are coming. They have quite big scarey horns though so I got a bit scared if they walked right behind me!
Had lots of food at the teahouse and rested in the afternoon. Got really cold by about 4.30pm. Stayed in Phakding.
THURSDAY 4th MARCH 2010
Lone's book suggested we should have 10 hours sleep at altitude so after we had our tea last night we all went to bed at 8pm after a cup of mint tea! It was REALLY cold at night - I was in a down sleeping bag with my down boots, trousers, T-shirt, fleece and down waistcoat on! That was comfortable but if I accidentally stuck a hand out the sleeping bag it was bloody freezing!
I shared a room with Elodie. We got up at 6.30am to pack our bags and had breakfast at 7am before heading towards Namache Baazar. It was nice walking at that time before the sun came out though once the sun was out it was absolutely roasting. We crossed a number of interesting suspension bridges with prayer flags and the water below was lovely and green. After one suspension briege there was a steep downhill before complete and utter hell started!
We then had a 2 hour (well 3 hour for me, as I became separated from the rest of the group due to my bypass, and Dharma walked with me!). Dharma told me just to go slow and I would make it. There were stone steps and I would walk to a corner hoping and praying the path would then be flat or downhill however it would be another very long steep uphill. At times part of me just wanted to just give up, but I thought of "fee" and she kept me going! I kept (stupidly) expecting the path to change at each corner but it never did! After what felt like absolutely forever we reached a wall which I was told was the half way point of the very steep bit! HALF WAY I thought?! It felt like it should have been the summit of Everest!
I thought I must NEVER fool myself into thinking it was a good idea to do another high altitude expedition! With stars, highlighting, underline and in bold "NEVER AGAIN"!!!
At this point Dharma pointed out Mount Everest to me! It was amazing to see this mountain in real life! There were 3 women selling oranges and they all turned round and pointed at my leg and laughed! I had a large beastie on my left leg (bypass leg) and whatever it was bit me to the left calf and made it bleed! The women thought this was hilarious! I then video recorded Mount Everest and asked the women if I could record them - they said I could if I bought an orange! So I bought an orange for 50 NR (about 40p) and it was actually very welcomed!
Dharma and I then started the second half of the severe slog - at times I found it harder than the first half and did wonder if I would ever make it! I asked Dharma how long to go and he said "one hour". After 40 minutes walking I asked how long again and he said 50 minutes! (de ja vu Kilimanjaro!). I finally caught sight of a house on the side of the mountain which Dharma told me was Namache Baazar. I felt like I had arrived however I had to slog up another load of steps to the other side of Namache where we stopped at the community police station (!) to have our trekking permits checked. Dharma then told me our lodge was just round the corner. I went round the corner and saw a load of buildings really high up! The next bit was also severe hell as there were loads of steps going up and I was having to stop every few steps as I was done in!
Passed "Everest Bakery" and lots of other interesting looking places but don't think I'll have it in me to walk back down and then back up!! lol! After a gruelling 10 - 15 minutes I made it to our lodge - the Moonlight Lodge. It was quite fancy inside. I met with the others and also enjoyed a HOT shower (300 NR - what a luxury!). Currently just above 11,000ft. Also saw the mountain Lhotse today too.
We all went to bed at 7.50pm because we were all so shattered!!
FRIDAY 5th MARCH 2010
Today was "rest and acclimisation day" at Namche Baazar (just above 11,000ft). Dharma (guide) said we could have a late breakfast, we thought 9am, but it was 7.30am instead of 7am! Had a horrible rice pudding for breakfast and some Tibetan bread (like a nan bread). We then went on a VERY steep climb up a peak behind Namache Baazar. I got behind as usual, Dharma offered a smaller hill but I said I wanted to go up the main one. It was tough!
I find the rocky paths hard going as the steps up can often be quite high. Once at the top of the peak I saw the world's highest airstrip at 3,900m, and I saw a plane coming in to land. The locals use the plane to go to Kathmandhu. After the airstrip the ground was similar looking to a golf course only a hundred times harder to walk across! Eventually made it to the top where I got fantastic views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, and very close was Amadablam. I then walked a flatter section and up a load of steps (which was hard!) to the Everest View Hotel (cost £135 a night!). I met with the others and had a cup of hot chocolate with fantasitic views of Everest, Lhotse and Amadablam. Took about 3 hours in total to get up to because of the altitute. On the way back down it was obviously steep in places and took about an hour. We saw a helicopter take off from the airstrip. Amazingly I walked in the LEAD on the way back!
After lunch I walked down to the first row of shops in Namche Baazar (couldn't go any further down because I knew it would kill me coming back up!). I used a solar powered internet computer to update my website.
Once back at the teahouse I had another diamox tablet (to help with alitutude sickness), did my video diary, had a shower then tried to chill out for a bit.
We laughed in the tea house because there was a Nepalise girl carrying baskets of firewood, etc, and I thought she was 18, Lone thought 10, John 22 and Elodie 30. The girl was 14 and we all decided that was child abuse!
As usual today was extreme temperatures - roasting during the day, and freezing at night. Both nights I have had down sleeping bag, liner, trousers, down boots, thermal top, fleece, and a blanket over the top!
SATURDAY 6th MARCH 2010
Today was more like a rest day because breakfast wasn't until 7.30am! Had some nice hot porridge. Laughed last night because Santa bought himself a new down jacket for 900 NR (just under £9) and we now call him "the blue streak" because his jacket is blue and he walks really fast!
Initially out of Namche Baazar it was hard going because it was very uphill by the steps. However it then went a bit flatter but there was a feeling of vertico looking down as could see the river we had at one point walked next to and we were now 11,000 ft up! We annoyingly then descended all the way back down to the river where we stopped for lunch. I laughed because there was a sign at one point saying it was the last stop before the 2 hour climb, however there were 2 other places! We went over a wooden bridge over the river, the river was lovely, clear and green. We saw evidence of another bridge which had collapsed into the water! At lunch we also saw proper Yaks with coats that went down to the ground and tails like those of horses.
After lunch hell began! It was two solid hours of uphill climbing! The only thing that was better than the climb up to Namache Baazar was the fact it wasn't as hot and there weren't as many stone steps. I concentrated on just looking at the ground and pretending it was flat rather than uphill! It was also better not looking ahead and dreading what was coming! I also tried to concentrate on taking long deep breath as it was hard going uphilll and being at altitude.
It is the sections like this that I MUST remember and never again be tempted into doing a high altitude expedition! Okay I get nice photos and see amazing scenery but I really have to work for it at times. I tried not to think much when climbing and just concentrate on getting the job done. Near the top it was hard going because I developed a bit of a headache and felt dizzy - I think because I wasn't drinking enough water. It was hard to walk, breath AND drink (even through a platypus) all at the same time! I had to stop to have a drink. Dharma was very patient as usual and walked with me. After just under 2 hours we reached the top of the ridge to the village of Tengboche at a height of just under 13,000ft. I've decided this expedition to Mount Everest Base Camp is harder than the expedition I did to Mount Kilimanjaro in 2000. If anyone ever says that either Mount Kilimanjaro, or in particular Mount Everest Base camp, are easy they have (1) Either never been there, or (2) They are lying!!
Tengboche was quite an open place with very clear views of Amadablam and it should have good views of Mount Everest only the clouds were down over it when we arrived.
At 3pm we went into the monastry to watch the monks have a short service, they said repeadetly "momomomomomomom" or something similar, it was cold and a bit boring and their chanting about sent me to sleep!
We had a visit down to the Tengboche Bakery and took photos of proper Yaks! It's pretty cold up here, by 4pm I had my down jacket on! Had tea at 7pm. Also the toilets here are disgusting - just a hole in the floor - the smell alone makes me feel sick! The other annoying thing is that all the rooms we have been in have really creaky bolts with padlocks, so if you get up in the night you wake up everyone else!!
SUNDAY 7th MARCH 2010
Left Tengboche about 8am. The path we left on was frozen and had snow on it. That shows how cold it was! I couldn't sleep last night because it was so cold! We descended quite far down before crossing a river. We had amazing close up views of Amadablam and also Everest. In-fact when I woke up the first thing I saw out my window was Mount Everest!! Not every day you get that! After the river it was quite rocky and uphill. It was also really hot and that combined with the altitude of over 13,000 feet made it really tough going. I have also developed a bad cough and at times I had a pretty bad headache across my forehead and felt a bit dizzy. It was a combination of the heat and the altitude I think. Also experienced vertico when we walked along the edge of the mountain - it was scarey how high up we were!
After about three and a half hours of hard going we stopped for lunch. I was needing food for energy, so I had pasta. Felt better when we set off after lunch. Descended a way down to river level to cross a bridge (annoying to descend so far!). It was then pretty steep uphill and again I had a headache and felt dizzy. It was extremely hard to breathe due to the altitude. I was just looking at the ground and concentrating on putting one foot in front of the other and breathing - it's hard to explain how hard it is to walk at alitude, I think you have to experience it to fully understand. I had to stop quite a few times just to breathe and prevent myself having what felt like a heart attack coming on!
During the walk we also went past a number of prayer stones / monuments - you are supposed to walk past with those on your right. As I got higher it got really tough, instead of just finding the uphill sections a challenge, I was also finding the flat sections tough going! It was a relieft to see just a bit of downhill to give my legs and breathing a rest!
Finally after what felt like my hardest day yet I reached Dingboche at a height of 4,400m / just over 14,500 ft. Saw a number of proper Yaks and stroked them as they went past! Stopped to get some throat lozenges as my throat is like sandpaper and it actually hurts when I cough. Got to where we are staying, I had a cup of hot lemon with honey and then went to my bed for over an hour. I didn't feel great and was shattered.
Went to bed just after 7.30pm. Before it got dark the scenery was amazing the way the sun was coming over the mountains! We are also above the height of the clouds just now. It was EXTREMLEY cold at night - I was in my down feather sleeping bag, with a liner, wearing down boots, thermal leggings, trousers, thermal top, 2 fleeces, a down jacket and fleece lined mitts! I also had my cameras in the sleeping bag to keep the batteries warm.
Food-wise the guides only eat Dal Baht - rice, black lentils in water, spinach and veg curry. I like momoms!! (like veg in light pastry).
Saw amazing stars outside, but not able to take photo / film unfortunately.
MONDAY 8th MARCH 2010
Today was our rest and acclimitisation day. We had breakfast at 8am and I had a horrible pancake that tasted like raw bread dough! We then went for a walk up a nearby peak. The first bit didn't seem too bad because it was nice and slow and the view was amazing with the cairns, prayer flags, and mountains covered in snow. I went up quite a bit higher but then I started to feel pain in my calves so I decided to go back down and give my legs a break before the slog tomorrow.
The toilet is a bit better than last time, instead of just a hole in the floor, it is a normal looking toilet that doesn't flush. Instead there is a barrel of water with a can above it. You have to scoop out water and pour it down the toilet and hope that whatever you have done flushes away! It's gross! No wonder people get ill!!
I then treated myself to a hot shower - this was also an experience! It consisted of me standing in a tin shed with a corrugated iron roof. A large kettle had been boiled on a fire 10 minutes earlier and the water from this was poured into a plastic container on the roof of this shed, which was then tipped upside down. Inside the shed I used a lever to allow the water to flow out the hose from the container. Only "flow out" consisted of dribble out, but it was hot and that seemed okay having not had a shower for a few days!
There are a few things I am looking forward to when I get home -heating, my own bed, a FLUSHING toilet, and a hot shower with pressure that I can stay in for as long as I like, and a washing machine!!!
Because I didn't sleep last night with the cold I went to bed at 2pm. Didn't get up til 4.30pm. My cough is still quite bad though which is annoying! Also need a good sleep!
Have meant to say we also walked through Rhodendren (I can't spell!) forests. Can also drink Rhodendren tea but not in every place. Also the other thing is seeing women going along carrying large baskets on their backs - often in the basket is a child!
At night I met a guy from Falkirk! Talk about a small world! Had pasta for tea to try and fuel myself up for the next day. Because it was so cold I also went to bed with my liner gloves on!
TUESDAY 9th MARCH 2010
Had oat porridge in the morning. I struggled up the first hill which we had gone up yesterday for the acclimitsation day. I started to feel that I had no energy left and to be honest I had lost my focus and motivation. Becore I came on this expedition I had put together a "positive packet" so I looked at this and it helped me to have more self-belief. I have found it harder going over the past few days as I have no contact with the outside world - I have no phone signal and when I've maybe felt I've needed a boost from someone I've not been able to get it. That, combined with the tougher climbing as we ascend in altitude, can make it hard at times. After reading "the positive packet" I asked my guide if he would walk in-front of me. He did and I found this much better as I just blanked my mind and got "into the zone" and just concentrated on his boots and following him. I also made the decision only to look up to the side to see the views, unless we had stopped for a rest, because if I saw the slighest incline ahead I started to think I couldn't do it! Dharma (my guide) kept a good slow pace, literally just one foot in-front of the other. I found this a good pace as I could breathe without getting in a panic that I couldn't breathe and we hardly had to stop. In-fact Dharma kept telling me "slow and steady wins the race". After quite a long section of up and down there was snow and ice on the path. We stopped at Thokla, having walked for about 3 hours, where Dharma suggested I have some tomato and noodle soup to fuel myself up before a long climb upwards. The path went up quite steeply and being at about 15,500 ft meant it was to be tough! As we went up we had a good slow pace and again I avoided looking up. The wind had fairly picked up so I stopped to put my fleece on on top of my thermal top. My nose felt red raw from the cold and I had to resort to sniffing as it was too sore to use a tissue!
After probably about an hour and a half I reached the top of that hard rocky climb. When I looked back the scenery was some of the best I think I have ever seen. Got some good photos - Dharma is also becoming a pro at using my video camera!
At the top of the steep bit there were a number of stone shrines in memory of all the people who have been killed whilst attempting to summit Mount Everest. It was quite something. I rewad a plague about a number of Japanese climbers who had been killed. (Also meant to say that in the morning I came the closest ever to being horned by a Yak! A train of them came up behind me and I only noticed when I happened to turn round! They had no bells and no-one with them!!).
Anyway, after the shrines I noticed quite a significant drop in the temperature - in that it was FREEZING with a capital F! The path then went flat and slightly downhill (what a relief on the legs!) and we ended up walking through fairly deep snow. There was also quie a lot of ice, so I had to be careful! I didn't fancy getting so close to Mt Everest then falling and breaking my leg and requiring helicopter evacuation! lol! My leg was starting to feel sore as for the first time I could feel chaffing from my trousers but I stayed focused and tried to ignore it! During the expedition I have regularly met the same people along the way, some of whom have known it's been tough for me at times. When I walked past one of the snow sections someone had scribed into the snow "GO SARAH" which was nice! Although it was relatively flat, with the altitude, the cold and the snow it was tough - probably some of the most extreme conditions I have ever walked in! (Meant to say at Thokla I crossed a bridge that went over the Khumbu Icefall).
After what felt like forever I finally reached the tiny place of Lobuche. I had a mini celebration with Dharma (guide) as I remember thinking a few days ago would I ever even make it to Namache Baazar!
Lobuche is at an altitude of 4928m / 16,168ft. It was really windy and bitterly cold so I quickly got into my thermals and down jacket, and it was only just after 3pm with the sun out! Can see me struggling to sleep tonight due to the extreme cold.
Didn't sleep cos of the cold.
WEDNESDAY 10th MARCH 2010
Had to get up at 5.15am because breakfast was at 6am. We left at 7am from Lobuche. I had on my thermals (top and bottom), fleece, down jacket, scarf, liner gloves, and fleece lined mitts. It was still extremely cold as in the very low minus temperatures. I have never been in conditions that cold before and despite everything I had on it became a proper worry that I may loose a finger or toe from the cold! I had to dig deep. There were several (4 actually) steep scree slopes to climb up and each time one came up I basically lost the will to live because it was so tough! But I dug deep and at times even shouted out loud "COME ON" to try and motiviate myself. I would say at this time I was having quite a dip and wondering if I would ever make it to base camp.
After about 3 hours walking I arrived at Gorak Shep at a height of 5125m / 16,814ft. I had been offered the option of going to base camp tomorrow and I'd pretty much convinced myself that was the plan I was going to follow. However my guide then suggested I instead have my lunch at 10.30am and head off for base camp at 11am! I had some spaghetti for energy and bought a Snickers chocolate bar for any struggling moments.
When we initially set off for Mount Everest Base Camp I was finding it extremely tough going even along the flat bit and I had a big motivational problem - I dind't like the thought of being so close to the base camp and not being able to make it. I put my sunglasses on and I admit to having a cry. It was just so tough being at the altitude and then losing motivation on top of that.
It was pretty steep uphill at times and we had to cross over a number of loose rocks - that was tought going as I was beginning to suffer from acute mountain sickness from the altitude - a thumping headache to the front of my head (it's dangerous if this goes to the back), shortness of breath, coughing and tasting bloody, and dizzyness. It's not nice but I remained as positive as I could to get to base camp. We had the Khumbu Glacier on our right hand side which was really amazing and we then had to walk across the glacier which was amazing too. Occassionally there were loud cracks and splashes as pieces of the glacier broke off.
After what felt like forever I made it to Mount Everest Base Camp (just over 17,500ft) at 2pm (Nepalise time), 8.15am (UK time).
It felt goot o have made it and to see the Khumbu Ice Fall behind. I took a number of rocks as souveniors for people! Only spent about half an hour at base camp due to the cold. Then wondered how on earth I was going to get back to Gorak Shep! I had made it to my destination, now my body just felt like collapsing in a heap from pure exhaustion! Due to all the same problems as on the way to base camp and the fact I was physically exhasued it took me 2 hours to return to Gorak Shep.
It was a long day - 9 hours trekking at high altitude. When back at Gorak Shep (5125m / 16,814ft) I was drained. I couldn't eat any of my tea (despite not having eaten since 10.30am) and I went to bed just before 6.45pm! At night I had to have my cameras, my waterbottle, and my toothpaste in my sleeping bag to stop them freezing!
THURSDAY 11th MARCH 2010
Got up at 6.45am and STILL felt exhausted. Had to get up to go the loo at 3am, that was interesting in the freezing cold and with a headtorch! Managed to eat some porridge for breakfast. Still had some altitude sickness such as a bad headache, a bad cough and dizziness. In the morning I rested because it can be dangerous to continue if you have bad altitude sickness.
About lunchtime Dharma (guide) and I headed from Gorak Shep (5125m / 16,814ft) back to Lobuche (4928m / 16,168ft). When I left Gorak Shep I laughed as a woman with a huge knife (as she was chopping potatoes outside) called 4 Yaks over and gave them something to eat. There was a horse that also fancied some but she just threw rocks at it to get it to go away. Also meant to say that yesterday at Everest Base Camp I saw an avalanche down the side of the Khumbu Icefall. Also when Dharma and I walked back to Gorak Shep we saw a couple of big rockfalls. One was particularly scry as it was close by and there were huge boulders coming down the mountain side at high speed and it was difficult to know where to go to be safe as the flight of the boulder was unpredictable.
Anyway the walk back to Lobuche took about two and a half hours. When I came down some of the downhills I was actually amazed I had ever got up them - I must have been determined! Realised it's a good personal achievement to have made it to Everest Base Camp however now I'm so tired you wouldn't believe - I can't be bothered to walk back! At Lobouche my pack of cleaning wipes had expanded somewhat, with the air almost wanding to burst with the increase in pressure. Still had bad headache.
Played cards with Dharma, Santa and 2 porters - a strange version of Trumps. And I'm no better at shuffling - I just asked the porter to do it. And Santa kept winning but only cos he was BLATENTLY looking at other's cards!! Joined in with Everest beer (a couple of sips) and popcorn to celebrate Everest Base Camp.
FRIDAY 12th MARCH 2010
Left Lobuche (4928m / 16,168ft) at 8.30am and said goodbye to Santa on the frozen lake as he took Elodie over to Gokoyo Lakes. After about 3.5 hours we decended down to Periche (4200m, about 13,500ft). The plan had been to stay here but we decided to descend further. The walk to Periche in the last half an hour was flat but we were walking into a strong headwind so it was hard-going and bitterly cold! At Periche my guide thought I should go and see a doctor as my cought has been really bad. I saw a doctor who was keen to check I didn't have a DVT (blood clot) from my leg bypass. A number of tests were done using some fairly historic looking equipment but they were happy it wasn't this. It was extremely cold when i had to take my fleece off for some of the tests! I was then diagnosed as having high altitude bronchitis. This is a small amount of fluid on the lungs making it hard to breathe at times and causes me to cough. I was given cough tablets, cough solutaion and an inhaler to use for when I'm particularly short of breath. After some lunch we descended fruther to Pangboche (4,000m / 13,000ft) which took about another 2 hours. Oh and I now have "racoon eyes" - you can see the white where my sunglasses have been. Although Pangboche sits high up still no phone signal. Also crossed some fairly dodgey looking bridges across fast flowing reiver today - bendy planks of wood!! The menues have all pretty much been the the same menus - spaghetti with tomato and cheese, macaroni with tomato and cheese, or "Buff Chilly" (beef chilly), or "Caster Pudding" (custard pudding) or "Muslin with hot milk" (Museli), and under the heading "EGGS" was "Porridge" and "Apple Pie"!! Went to bed at 7pm because I was shattered!!
SATURDAY 13th MARCH 2010
Left Pangboche (4,000m/13,500ft) at 8am after some peanut butter toast. The initial walk of about 2.5 hours was relatively okay as it was downhill. We went right down to river level and had lunch at Funkitinga, where I had the usual macaroni with tomato and cheese, although this one randomly came with a fried egg on top. Also had some mint tea. After lunch it was REALLY hard going as I had to climb a way up from the river and up the other side of the mountain. With having high altitude bronchitis I found I was getting really out of breath. The uphill climb seemed to go on forever (more than I can remember descending the other way). After what did feel like forever, and after several coughing fits, I got to the top OF THAT SECTION! Met some trains of Yaks and donkies today. Also just after lunch when we crossed th old wooden bridge we saw men laying cables for a new bridge (the wooden one bent when we crossed it which was a little scarey!). The path then went flat for a bit before more uphill, I then arrived with Dharma (guide) in Namache Bazar (around 11,000ft). We had walked quite a distances in 7.5 hours so I felt pretty done in! At Namache Bazar I stayed in the Moonlight Lodge again and enjoyed a hot shower and the good pizza they make at Namache (they have an oven!). Also today the walk up and through Tengboche (just under 13,000ft) was really hard-going, steep and uphill. At Namache I had popcorn too. Also tried a bit of Dharma's Nepalise whisky (called "Roxy") - not nice! It then came on a hail storm outside - hail the size of golf balls!
SUNDAY 14th MARCH 2010
Left Namache Bazar (just over 11,000ft) at about 8am. I had some rather watery porridge for breakfast! It was nice to be going DOWN the nightmare climb up to Namache that I had suffered on the way up. Having come down I really don't know how I found it in me to get up all those steep climbs to Mt Everest Base Camp!
At the half-way point down the "Namache Climb" the women were no longer there selling the oranges, and I said "goodbye" to my last glimpse of Mt Everest. We continued down to Phankding (just over 8,000ft). I was feeling physically exhausted and my legs felt completely done in. I had to stop in one of the villages we paased through and pay 150NR (over £1) for a Mars Bar as I needed something to give me some sort of energy. I gobbled it down in seconds! I was so exhausted I was actually tripping over rocks on the path all the time!
Took about 4 hours to get to Phakding where we stopped in the same lodge as the way up for some lunch. Dharma (guide) had his usual Dahl Bhat (rice, veg curry, spinnach and pickles) - he has that twice a day! I tried to find some new energy from some tomato noodle soup and a disgusting tasting Yak cheese toastie! I also had some "hot tang" (hot orange) which was a welcome change from the usual mint tea or hot lemon! The original plan had been to then stay here but this was changed to trying to continue on to the final destination of Lukla.
A bunch of trekkers came into the lunch stop as I was leaving and asked if I had been to Mt Everest base camp and if so what was it like. I simply told them it was "tough", I didn't want to completely put them off! Dharma laughed saying that group didn't seem prepared and that most would end up with altitude sickness.
I tried to pretend the afternoon was the start of a new day walking to try and not feel so exhuasted! We crossed a number of suspension bridges and Dharma (guide) was good at going slow on the uphills knowing I was so exhausted. It was a long hard climb up to Lukla and as if that wasn't hard enough we went through two hail storms so it also felt like people were shooting at me with paintball pellets as I tried to ascend!!
After 8.5 hours walking Dharma (guide) pointed out the arch we had walked through at the start - never in my whole life did I feel so pleased to see an archway!! I had a mini celebration when I walked through the arch and arrived at Lukla - though no jumping around, I had pushed myself to the point of complete physical exhaustion and at times felt like I was almost drunk!! Stumbled through Lukla and up some steps to my bed for the night! I said goodbye to my porter "Boota" and gave him a tip for lugging my bag around. He shook my hand when he left which was nice.
Felt ready for my bed (seriously!) by 5pm. THANK GOODNESS the expedition is over! I'm glad I succeeded but it was EXTREMELY tough!!!!
Also got my Trekking Permit to keep as a souveniour. It was funny today because all the tiny children kept saying "Namaste" (hello) which was funny! Also saw sherpas carrying rolls of carpet etc! "Dhanyabad" means "Thank You". There was a really bad thunderstorm most of the night which I found really scarey being on my own in the Himalayas! :(
MONDAY 15th MARCH 2010
Due to being unsure what the weather was going to do, and the Lukla flights being so unreliable at times due to the cloud cover, Dharma (guide) decided we should get up for a 6.30am breakfast with a view to getting an early flight to Kathmandhu.
I didn't sleep well due to the thunderstorm and then there were loads of Japanese people who couldn't have been louder if they had tried - I thought I had slept in but when I looked at my watch it was only 5am! I couldn't get back to sleep!
Managed to get a flight that left Lukla just after 8am. The runway (if you can call it that) is so short at Luckla that it goes quite downhill for take-off so the plane can gather enough momentum to actually take off!! It wasn't too bad taking off though we had some turbulence during the flight and I found that a bit off putting! We landed in Kathmandhu about 25 minutes later. It was then the usual 'run of the gauntlet' as we tried to get out the airport and avoid all the people trying to grab my bag! We got in a Suzuki taxi with two other people - 4 people in a car not much bigger than an old mini, plus all the gear (some of which had to go on the roof just tied on with the bag straps!) - was tight to say the least!
As we drove back to the Hotel I laughed as I had forgetten how crazy the driving is around the roads of Kathmandhu! Once at the hotel I went for a nice warm shower (very welcomed after 2 weeks in the mountains!) and it was nice to wear clean clothes and trainers... and nice to have a normal flushing toilet!!! I then took my laundry down to the reception in an attempt to have it cleaned. It absolutely stank so it was a bit embarrasing handing it over!!
I then went for a daunder around Thamel, bought myself an Everest Base Camp t-shirt for 400NR (about £3.50). I also bought a pair of North Face trousers and a waterproof duffle bag for my kayaking gear for 3700NR (about £32.95). Finally I bought a really nice OIL PAINTING of Mt Everest for 1500NR (£13.25). I went to the Gaia Restaurant for a nice sandwich and a soft drink which only cost 145NR (£1.28!). I then went back to the hotel, sat outside in the sun and read my Nepal book. I also got my first Everest Beer, though having just come back from my expedition it took me over 3 hours to drink and I felt a little bit drunk after only one bottle of it!!
In the evening I went for a meal and a beer with Lone and John at the Fire and Ice Restaurant in Kathmandhu. It served Italian food. It was good, though probably not my favourite place. Went to bed at 9pm!
TUESDAY 16th MARCH 2010
I had planned a lie-in but because I've been getting up so early I woke up just before 7am! I walked along to the palace, which is now a museum. The Palace was occupied by the King up until 2008 when Nepal did away with a monarchy and got a president instead. Unfortunately the guard told me the palace was closed today for some reason. I walked back towards the main area of Thamel in Kathmandhu which involved having to cross a busy road. The driving in Nepal is mad as previously written about. As I crossed the road I was almost right across when out of no-where a motorbike hit me from the right hand side! It gave me quite a good wallop and I sort of fell over the seat of it to stop myself falling on the road. Thankfully due to the relatively slow speed I only came away with a couple of sore legs, a small bruise on my leg, and a fright! I now have a fear of the motorbikes! lol!
To get away from the traffic I took a visit to the "Garden of Dreams" which was gardens (oddly enough!) which had been restored. It was quite nice and nice to get away from the danger of being mowed down by a motorbike! I sat there for a bit. I then went for a walk along some other streets around Thamel - they all sell pretty much the same thing and it gets a little tedious after a while. Anyway I bought a nice softshell jacket for 1500NR (about £13.50) and I also bought another oil painting, this time of Ama Dablam for 1500NR (£13.25).
I went for lunch at The Cafe Bakery thought didn't rate that much. In one of the stalls I saw two people speaking in sign language. I braved it and signed to ask if they understood British Sign Langauge! They did! I signed I only knew a little, but I got that he was Matt and that they were in Nepal for 3 months. I managed to say my name and that I was here for 3 weeks and that I'd walked up a mountain! They asked where I lived and when I started to fingerspell "Scotland" Matt did the bagpipes sign and I said yes! I then said it was nice to meet them and they said the same. I felt kind of excited that I'd been brave enough to enter into my first ever "proper" sign language conversation - and in Nepal of all places!!! lol!!
After that I noticed the sky had got really dark so I walked quickly back to the hotel, had JUST got in and then there was thunder and a bad hail-storm! I later visited Kris at the Trekking Encounters office as Fraser had emailed me to say to ask Kris about visiting the school (Kris Govenor for school). Kris is going to meet me at 9am tomorrow and take me to see the morning assembly - and he's going to take me on the back of his motorbike (although I was hit by one I've never been on one so I'm quite excited about that!).
Went for another dauder around but had had enough of the people trying to sell me bangles and wooden violins (which they insist in playing as a sample much to my annoyance!). They follow you until you remind them you don't want one! lol! Went back to the hotel and read my book for a bit.
In the evening I went for tea at The New Orleans Cafe as it is one that people say is good. I wan't that impressed by it as the food was a bit cold. My favourite place is still the Gaia restaurant near the hotel. Bought some souveniors on the way home.
WEDNESDAY 17th MARCH 2010
Kris (Director of Trekking Encounters in Nepal) picked me up from the hotel at 9am on his motorbike! I have never been on the back of a motorbike before but oddly it is something I had always wanted to do!
In Nepal only the driver of the motorbike has to wear a helmet, so I just hopped on the back and grabbed hold of the handle on the back and hoped for the best! The roads were manic as usual and I just said my prayers that I wasn't involved in an accident, especially with no helmet on! Anyway it was good fun and felt adventurous!
Kris took me to a Nepalise school where the children are aged three and a half (pre-nursery) up to 18. They all had smart uniforms and stood in lines outside for their assembly and each morning sing the National Anthem whilst some of the older children play the theme with muscial instruments. I met the headmaster and had to stand at the front on the 'stage' during the outdoor assembly and was introduced as 'the girl from Scotland'! They all clapped to welcome me, which was quite embarrasing.
I then got taken round all the classes. Each time I walked into a class they all stood up and said "Good Morning Maam" which was also embarrasing! The nursery clss sang me a song, and one of the older classes danced and sang. They are all doing revision today as they have exams on Friday. I wished them 'good luck' - it was about the only thing I said that they understood because of my Scottish accent. A few 10-12 year olds then spoke to me outside and were interested about my expedition so I showed them photos of it. One of the older classes then came and gave me a gift of a flower in a box that said "best wishes" which was nice, and they all asked me to go back sometime and see them!
I stayed at the school for a couple of hours. I also met Kris' son (three and a half but very tall!) and his wife Hindu, who works at the school. I also met Dharma (guide's) daughter. Kris then took me on the motorbike back to Thamel, near my hotel.
I didn't do much in the afternoon - not been sleeping that well at night due to all the noise - so went to bed for a bit. Fed up of going round all the stalls that are so similar and have no room in bags to take anymore gear back! There was a powercut virtually all day so I spent most of the time fumbling about with my headtorch.
At 6pm I met Kris and he took me to a Tibetan restaurant were we had chicken momos (probably the best I've had), some finger chips and a cola. He paid which was nice. He was also telling me how he hopes to visit Scotland this year.
I am definately going rafting and to Chitwan tomorrow. Going with a Nepalise driver, he doesn't speak much English, so I hope it goes okay - a bit daunting going to an area I don't know with someone who won't understand! As long as I get there and back that's the main thing! Had an Everest beer at night on my balcony.
I'M TOO TIRED NOW.... TBC!!!!
