Everest Expedition 27th FEBRUARY TO 24th MARCH 2010

Follow this link to view some of my photos and Follow this link to view video of me bathing with the elephants!

I DID IT!!!! ON WEDNESDAY 10th MARCH I MADE IT TO MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP (17,500ft)!!!! It was by far one of the hardest things I have ever undertaken!! There were some pretty serious uphill climbs at times and I had pretty bad altitude sickness, and I also suffered from high altitude bronchitis (saw western doctor and was given an inhaler), but I still clambered on and got there! Got some good photos and kept a video diary too :) At times it was also so cold I seriously thought I was going to lose a finger or a toe!! All a good experience though! And a pretty good achievement I would say given I had a femoro-popliteal bypass to my leg in 2003 due to a trapped artery!!

I'm thinking of the next challenge... possibly doing "the 7 summits" - the 7 highest summits of the 7 continents. Already done Kilimanjaro (highest in Africa) and Everest Base Camp will count for me instead of the top... bring on the rest... which should I do next??!!

12/04/10... STILL not well, sickness etc continuing along with stomach pain. Had blood tests today. They now thinking I have inflammation of the stomach lining caused by a parasite infection :(

07/04/10... Unbelievably I am STILL not well, have a parasite infection - lovely. Haven't managed to eat anything for two weeks now! Apparently I'm okay as long as I keep drinking Lucozade and using rehydration sachets in drinking water. The plus side is it's a fantastic weight loss programme! :)

26/03/10... Still not well and can't eat anything because I am just sick immediately afterwards. Been at the doctor again today, and am due back in on Monday! Apart from being ill just now I did have a good trip and, although it was very hard at times, I am glad I made it to Everest Base Camp. Hopefully get my photos tomorrow, I'll try and add some photos to this site. Not sure what my next challenge will be - am currently reading a book "the seven summits of the world" - maybe another mountain???!! I quite like the challenge of trying for the 7!! Who knows!!

25/03/10... Well I'm back in the UK now, but I am really not feeling well :( I have an emergency appointment at the doctor today. Having had Giardia when I came back from Kilimanjaro I'm almost certain that's what I've got again - parasites living in stomach from infected water. I can't eat anything as it just guarantees I'll be sick! Will wait and see what the doctor says later today though....

22/03/10... For the 2nd day in a row I am choked with the cold which is rather annoying! Today I went and looked round the Royal Palace which is now a museum, as the royal family moved out in 2008. This is also the same place that the Nepalise royal family were all massacered in 2001. It was interesting to look around. Just been out for a nice lamb rogan josh for my final meal out before I go home tomorrow. Also just got a book 'the 7 summits' to inspire me for where my next climb will be!! Two days ago the former Nepalise prime minister died so it is really busy in Kathmandhu just now. I fly home tomorrow, via Doha (in Quatar), due back home Wednesday morning. Looking forward to being able to safely drink the water, to a flushing toilet, and to being back in my own house! Have had a good time though!

21/03/10... Managed to see 4 rhino on my second elephant safari. Drove the 5 hours back to Kathmandhu this morning, and somehow I now have the cold which is rather annoying! I am in Kathmandhu tomorrow and then fly back to Scotland Tuesday afternoon, arriving Wednesday morning. Can't believe it is almost all over!

20/03/10... I am currently in Chitwan in Southern Nepal where it is absolutely roasting - today is in the 30's and it is a bit too hot! This morning I went on a canoe ride in a wooden dug-out canoe along the Rapti River. It was very unstable but we saw lots of interesting birds and also a crocodile! We then went to the Elephant Breeding Centre where I fed a baby elephant! I chickened out of doing a jungle walk today as I met two guides who had been charged by rhinos and met someone else who had had their leg mauled by a bear - I figured it was too dangerous! And after the rafting (see below) I feel I've been in enough danger!! This afternoon I am going on a another elephant safari. Yesteray I went on a 5 hour jeep safari through the jungle where I was fortunate to see a wild Sloth Bear!! It was very close to the jeep and I got some excellent pictures / video. The guide had a 3ft long stick which was to fend the bear off if it tried to attack us! It was a bit scarey but also a good adventure! We also so monkies, wild boar, peacocks, etc, but not seen the rhino yet. Yesterday morning I went on an elephant-ride through the jungle. It was pretty amazing too though it's not all that comfortable on the top of an elephant with it's large gait! The highlight of yesterday was getting to bath with the elephants in the Rapti River. I sat on it's back and it soaked me with water from its trunk! It also managed to tip me into the river twice!! Last night the local people did a cultural dance and after an Everest beer my guide managed to get me up dancing with them!!! tomorrow I head back to Kathmandhu and fly back to Scotland on Tuesday.

Two days ago I got a severe fright during the river-rafting, and I probably wouldn't recommend taking part in this activity in Nepal! The rapids were absolutely huge along the Trusuli river, our raft got stuck on a rock and flipped completely upside down. I then ended up going down the white water rapid with the raft on top of me. I was wearing a life jacket so was too buoyant to manage to swim under and away from the raft everytime I tried to get it off me. There was a moment where I seriously thought I was going to drown, but somehow I managed to get out. It was the scariest experience I have ever had in my life so far. Once rescued the raft guide didn't even check to see if everyone was back... I didn't enjoy it I'm afraid - I was just glad to have lived through it, literally.

Latest plans... Today (Thursday 18th March) I am being collected from the hotel by a Nepalise driver and being dropped off for river-rafting all day on the Trusuli River. The driver will then take me to Chitwan National Park for my safari until the 21st March. See www.junglesafariresort.com for where I will be staying and the activities I will be getting up to. I will be doing a canoe ride along the Rapti river seeing crocodiles, etc. Also doing jeep safari, elephant riding, visiting elephant breeding centre and even getting to bath with the elephants! I am going there myself and have been told I will be looked after by the Nepalise at Chitwan. The Nepalise driver will then take me back to the hotel on the 21st. Don't think the driver speaks much English from what I understand, as long as he gets me to and from the right places at the right times that's all that matters :) Looking forward to seeing the elephants though.

17/03/10... Today I got picked up by Kris (guy in-charge of my trip in Nepal) who was on his motorbike. I went on the back! I have always wanted a go on the back of a motorbike! Only Kris had to wear a helmet and I just hung on the back - it was good fun! Wouldn't have liked to have fallen off though in the busy traffic!! We went to visit a local Nepalise school. Got there for the assembly, I was asked to stand out the front and was introduced as 'the girl from scotland'. I then got taken round each of the classes, though no-one really understood me with my scottish accent! Met Kris' wife and son, and also Dharma (guide's) daughter. Then came back on the back of the motorbike. The power is just back on after the usual set of powercuts, haven't really done anything this afternoon, apart from fumble my way about with my headtorch. About to go for a meeting with Kris to confirm that I'm going rafting and starting my safari from tomorrow.

16/03/10... What an exciting morning I had! I crossed a very busy road with the usual mad Kathmandhu driving and managed to get hit by a motorbike! At low speed thankfully so just got a bit of a bruise to my knee! Then went to visit the Kathmandhu Garden of Dreams to get away from the traffic for awhile - I'm now scared of motorbikes! lol! I was then in a stall when I noticed people signing to each other so I put my stuff down and signed to them asking if they understood British Sign Language! They did. I signed that I only knew a little, but I was able to have a short conversation whereby we got each other's names (2 of them), where from and I was able to say I had walked to Everest Base Camp! They asked how long I was here for, I managed to reply - they are here for 3 months! Felt good to be able to have my first proper language conversation - and in Nepal!!! Does that mean I get a bonus for my class in UK???!! Tried to go to Palace museum but that is shut til Thursday. In the afternoon I daundered around and bought some more mountaineering gear - I'm needing a bigger bag to bring it all home!! My bronchitis seems to have gone which is good. Had another mental hail-storm today with HUGE pieces of ice - thankfully i've always managed to get indoors just before it's started! In Nepal, despite all the powercuts, they seem to have good cleaning.. my stinky washing has amazingly come back looking pretty clean to my surprise! :) Tonight I tried the New Orleans Cafe for tea, not as good as my favourite Gaia Restaurant! Tomorrow I am going to visit a Nepalise school, going for the morning assembly, being picked up at 9am. Off now to have an Everest beer on my balcony!

15/03/10... Flew from Lukla back to Kathmandhu this morning, a day early. Descended quicker as hadn't been that well. Last night in Lukla there was a serious thunderstorm which was quite scarey! I am in Kathmandu until Thursday... going to try and get my expedition gear washed and get some energy back after my 2 week expedition! Then going River Rafting on Trusuli River for the whole day before elephant safari, canoeing, jungle walk, and bathing with elephants in Chitwan National Park for a few days... Got the usual power cuts going on in Kathmandhu so not sure how easy it will be to keep this site updated.

05/03/10... This will be my last update for atleast a week as I will not have any access to solar powered internet after today. You can view my itineray (below) to see roughly what I'll be up to. Today we are having a 'rest and acclimitisation day' at Namche Bazar at just over 11,000ft. My guide told me I could have a late breakfast - I was thinking maybe 9am, but it was 7.30am instead of 7am!! I then went on an extremely hard hike up a nearby peak to get very good views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Amadablam. The views were completely amazing but it took me 3 hours to hike the short distance to there due to the altitude and the steepness, and the fact I have had bypass surgery to my leg! My leg was quite sore! It was also pretty cold up there. The height as 3,900m (not sure just now what that is in feet). On the way there I also passed the highest airstrip in the world and got some photos. After just over an hour I returned down to the place I'm staying at in Namche Bazar.

This expedition is very hard going at times and there have been times when I have wondered if I will ever make it to everest base camp - hopefully i will. Just got to be careful with the altitude - it can be dangerous (and fatal!) if you don't respect it.

I am due to finish the expedition on 16th March. May not get a chance to update this website anytime before then so wish me luck as I venture even higher up into the Himalayas!

04/03/10... Left early in the morning to start our long hike to Namche Bazar. The hike was okay until just after lunch. We went over some amazing suspension bridges with colourful prayer flags hanging off them and the rivers below had clear green water. We then had a big uphill to another suspension bridge, after which I then experienced 3 hours of extreme hell!! I was reminded why I had actually said 'never again' after Kilimanjaro! The rocky path was really hard going and extremely steep and with the sun out it must have been around 20 degrees celcius. Everytime I got to a corner I thought the path MUST go down or flat but it would just be another stretch of extreme up-hill. This was the story for one and a half hours, then my guide Dharma told me that was half way. HALF WAY I thought?! I felt like I had climbed Everest! At this half way point I caught my first glimpse of Mount Everest. I also got bitten/stung on the leg by some beastie thing that made my leg bleed and which the women selling oranges thought was extremely funny for some reason! I then set off on the second half of the gruelling ascent. I had to stop a lot as it was very hard going and hard to breath but my guide told me slowly was the best. I did feel I was going quite slow though! After another hour and a half we reached Namche Bazar at a height of just over 11,000ft (more than 3 x the height of Ben Nevis!). I had to stop at the Community Police Station to have my trekking permit inspected. Thought I had then reached the end, however had to go up a load of steps to where I was staying, which at this height was again severe hell! Was glad to finally make it though!

03/03/10... Got up at 5.20am and then went to the airport in a couple of tiny taxis (one of which didn't have any lights on although it was dark - that usual in this country, that and the mad driving!). The plane was due to take off at 6.30am however was slightly late as it depends when there is a gap in the clouds as there is no navigational system at Lukla airport. We took off in a 19 seater plane and the scenery was amazing but the turbulence scarey! The flight to Lukla is said to be one of the scariest experiences from what I have read! After about half and hour we approached Lukla airstrip - a 350m runway on the edge of a mountain! The plane just dropped and really bumped onto the runway and I was thinking 'BRAKES' and thankfully we stopped before crashing into the mountain! We then hiked to Phankging (not sure of spelling!) where we stayed the night at just over 8,000ft. The hike took us through a number of Nepalise villages and we saw a number of Yaks and Donkies with bells on them warning you they were coming.

02/03/10... Only time for a quick entry today... went round temples and saw lots of monkies. Almost got killed on the road by a car that was going its own way! Saw people being cremated by side of river. Just packed my gear for the start of my Everest expedition which starts tomorrow and lasts for 2 weeks. Our flight out to Lukla is at 6.30am, we are being collected at 5.15am. We are just about to go out for a Nepalise dinner with our guide. Might be struggling for web access so to get an idea of where I'll be please read the itinerary by following the link further down this page.

01/03/10... Lesson 1 - ignore the power cut chart in the hotel! It said the power was going off at 8.14am so although I was really tired I got up at 7.30am to have a shower - got in the shower then all the power went off and I had to find my way around in the pitch black! Also not sure I'll bother with breakfast again - it was a little odd. Would rather sleep in! Was met by a guide at the hotel at 10am and we drove to the area of Patan in Kathmandhu. The roads were as mad as ever and people were riding motorbikes with about 3 people on board whilst carrying big pieces of wood, etc. When we stopped children came right up to the car windows and I was worried in-case they got run over when we set off! I looked round the old Buddhist and Hindu temples in Patan - some as old as the 11th century. I took video and photos of these and some children made me laugh when they were looking at my video and wanting filmed! They seemed to like seeing themselves. We then went into a little shop that sells 'singing bowls'. These are handmade copper bowls that they hit with a little gong thing and they say the vibrations help heal any sore bits on your body. The man told me to sit on a stool then he put a bowl on my head and hit it with the gong thing - apparently to get rid of any headaches! I didn't have a headache and I was finding it hard not to laugh because I felt a bit ridiculous! We then went to the industrial area and saw people making wooden carvings etc. They are all handmade and can take months to make. I bought a nice mask. Then headed back to the hotel. Really warm again today. I then went for a walk around all the stalls. 'North Face' is a big name here but all fakes! I went to the Kilroy restaurant for lunch and had some spicy chicken thing. Santa (porter!) then met me at the hotel and we walked to the Trekking Encounters office. At the office there was the usual power cut but I had a cup of tea and we discussed the mountains. I am now doing the rafting before my safari too. Santa then took me to a photo-shop to get some photos taken for my mountaineering permits. I then had a look around the stalls and decided to risk it and get a rick-shaw back to my hotel. The cost was to be 100 Nepalise Rupee (about one pound). We set off and it lesson number 2 quickly became apparent - always carry a card showing where my hotel is!! The guy had absolutely no idea and partnered with my Scottish accent and the fact I had no idea where we were, it was a bit scarey! Eventually after dodging the traffic and about being thrown out when we went over the speed bumps I got back to the hotel. I paid him 300 Nepalise Rupee (about three pounds) for his efforts. ALthough it was a near-death experience I think I will have to do it again but take my video camera!! Went out for my tea, bought a map of the trek to everest, and some down boots for my expedition. At night there was the most mental thunder storm with hail the size of golf balls, I had just got back to the hotel and was sitting in the roof top garden when it came out of no-where! Thankfully managed to run for cover in time! Also met an American who is a retired police officer so had a chat with her. She had to retire early after being trapped between a car and a bike :( She recommended the Gia for my tea, I had the best Chicken Satay I have ever had, and all for about 2 pounds! I daundered around the stalls in Thamel and took the hotel card with me this time, before experiencing a rick-shaw ride in the dark! At times it was so death-defying I just shut my eyes and hoped I would come out the other end alive and not squished in the road! :) This experience cost 200 Nepalise Rupees (just under 2 pounds). Right now the power is still off and it is tipping with rain - the rain being unusual for this time of the year! Still got a bit of jet lag I think so going to go to bed (9pm)!

28/02/10... Left my house at 4am on Friday 27th February and arrived in Kathmandhu this afternoon about 2pm (Nepal are 5 hrs 45 mins ahead of UK). My flight was slightly delayed because in Doha (Qatar) we had to wait for passengers from a Dubai flight. In Doha it was 22 degrees celcius which was really hot - in Doha I saw actual arabs (as in people)which was cool! :) In Kathmandhu the temperature was 24 degrees which I wasn't expecting. Had to wait a while for my bag to come off the plane but the main thing is it came! Dharma (my guide) picked me up from the airport with a driver, and gave me a scarf and welcomed me to Nepal! The streets here are completely manic - there don't seem to be any rules other than you roughly drive on your side of the road! There are people, goats, cars and motorbikes going in all directions and when you get to a junction or a roundabout no-one stops, everyone just toots and hopes that the other person will get out the way! It's a hair-raising experience! Today is the Colour Festival in Kathmandhu whereby people fill water balloons with paint and throw them at each other! There are a lot of people going about with paint over their heads! I didn't go out initially as I didn't want to get caught in the cross-fire! I am staying in the Fuji Hotel (see link further down) - it's quite basic but it has a bed and that's all I'm after just now! :) The buildings around the hotel are practically falling down. I've been told it's okay to go out myself but to be back in by 9pm. There are several power cuts but I'm told there will be electricity after 7pm when they put the generator on. If not, i'll be in the bathroom with the help of my headtorch!! This is some experience - I probably didn't realise how poor Kathmandhu is - I'd say it's worse than what I saw in Nairobi. Tonight I went out for my tea and had the best (and cheapest!) Lamb Rogan Josh I think I've ever had! Also treated myself to an 'Everest Lager' and spent time pealing the label off the bottle to keep as a souvenior! lol! Tomorrow I am meeting the guide at 10am to go for a tour of the city - I'm quite looking forward to that but hoping I don't get squished by some mad driver!! I'll try and keep this site up-to-date so check back soon. I'm off to my bed now!!!

I will try to keep this website updated as much as I can whilst in Nepal. Please also checkTrekking Encounters website as they will be putting a news bulletin on their site about how I'm doing.

In Kathmandhu I will be staying in Fuji Guest House which looks nice with an open roof top!

From 27th February to 24th March 2010 I am going to trek to Everest Base Camp and summit Kala Pattar (max height about 19,000ft - see graph at bottom of this page). The expedition will just be me, a guide and a porter!! I am paying for the expedition myself but raising sponsorship for Vascular Lab, Ninewells Hospital, Dundee (where I had bypass operation to my leg in 2003) and Fife Rape and Sexual Assault Centre (because they do an excellent job). TO GIVE A DONATION OR DONATE A RAFFLE PRIZE PLEASE EMAIL ME AT sarahcthomson@yahoo.co.uk as I have a specific bank account now set up for sponsorship.

At the end of the expedition I am going on a 4 day elephant safari in the Royal Chitwan National Park, which will also include some canoeing down the Rapti river, and then I'm doing a day river-rafting on the Trusuli river. Nepal is one of the top rivers in the world for rafting, due to the monsoon rain (have a look on Youtube for this river and you'll see why that is!).

See the itinerary for my trip by clicking here

Because I have a bypass in my leg I have to take blood-thinning injections (fragmin) for the plane trip. I have just taken my first one, having to inject into my stomach - it's now sore :( I usually end up with a bruised stomach but if it means I'll still have a leg then so be it! Everything is now packed - just hope I don't wake up to a whole lot of snow in the morning!

This expedition is a major personal challenge because in 2003 I had a bypass operation to my leg after a muscle development problem led to me having a trapped artery. Due to this I had a disabled badge... and I was only 23! I was told I had a 1-in-20 chance of having to have my leg amputated above the knee due to this problem, so it was fairly major! My challenge now is to get myself up to Everest Base Camp!!!

Have a look on YouTube for "Lukla airport" or "Everest base camp" to get an idea of what I'm letting myself in for.

That's me now off work! Not back til 27th March! I'm really excited about my trip now!! I now have my currency! Nepal has a "soft currency" which means you can only get it in Nepal. They also take US Dollars, so I am taking dollars to have them changed into Nepalise Rupees when I get there. Apparently arriving in Katmandhu airport will be like running the gauntlet with everyone trying to grab my gear! When on the climb I've been told to make sure I stand closest to the inside of the mountain when a Yak (or more than one Yak!) passes - they have been known to nudge people off the mountain before!! My guide will be called Dharma ("darma") and my porter will be called Santa. They are both Nepalise.

I have got a Freeloader Pro which is a solar panel system so I can charge my camera batteries during my expedition. Just got it so am practising how to use it!

Have now got my expedition helicopter evacuation insurance! Where I am going can take 2-3 hours to even be reached by helicopter if something went wrong. It is also the end of the winter season when I'm going so i must ensure i am prepared for the worst possible scenario! Have also finally got my camcorder! Just trying to work out how to use it so I can make a video-diary of my expedition. Have just had more injections, this time Typhoid and Hep A. Have already had all the more unsual ones at vast expense! (�150 - what a rip off!!). I feel like I'll be a walking medical cabinet as I also have diamox (to help with altitude sickness) and also medication in-case I get giardia (that is parasites that live in your stomach that you can get from infected water.... I got this at the end of Kilimanjaro and it was one of the worst illnesses I have ever had!). I also have to take the blood thinning injections for my leg! Have been singing along to my Ipod and getting fit on my cross-trainer! Cross-trainer is in my garden shed so the cold weather has also been helping me acclimatise! Also been getting my new boots broken in.

Things I still have to do...

Need to work out how I'm going to transport all my gear to Nepal - there seems a lot of it!! Have got my visa which makes it exciting and 'real'!!! It will probably be in the very cold minus temperatures at this time of year at heights I'm going to!! I have a number of sleeping bags but none that go to such a low temperature! Am going to just hire one from Kathmandu... they cost over �200 to buy in this country otherwise! Just need to get fit now!!! A lot to think about and sort out for this type of expedition, although it's exciting now thinking about it as it's so close! :) Have also added a link showing the itinerary for my trip. If you would be interested in sponsoring me please email me at address below.

This expedition will be a big challenge for me as I have had major leg problems. I have always been really into the outdoors however in 2002/2003 I had a disabled badge as I got a trapped artery in my leg. After a 6-hour operation at Ninewells Hospital in Dundee, and with a 1-in-20 chance of having to have my leg amputated above the knee, I had a femoro-popliteal bypass operation. In simple terms, the surgeons took a vein out my right leg and put it into my left leg, so the vein bypasses the part of my artery that was trapped (I have some good scars!). I couldn't walk when I came out of hospital and I have tried really hard to get to the fitness level I'm currently at. But as most people know "challenge" is my middle name and that's not enough for me - I want to push myself and get to Everest Base Camp!! Will need to be careful with a few things though!

Good news is that i have been given the go-ahead from Ninewells Hospital to go up at altitude despite having a bypass in my leg. Going to altitude can raise the risk of getting DVT so it obviously important for me to check this out first. Although I do like a challenge it will be important for me to be aware of what to look out for for if my leg starts playing up as I cannot risk anything happening to my bypass.

In the meantime you can get an idea of what I'm letting myself in for by reading my account of climbing Kilimanjaro in 2000 (see link below) - I must be mad to be doing this again!!

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Details of my expedition to Everest

READ MY PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF MY EXPEDITION UP MT KILIMANJARO IN 2000

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Email: sarahcthomson@yahoo.co.uk