Cascade Falls

Note for Dec 10th, 05: -

Cascade Falls has been a major goal of mine since I started ice climbing a few years ago. It is supposedly one of the best WI3 routes in Alberta and it's proximity to Banff and small approach make it a popular route. It is by no means an extreme route but a good introduction to steeper multi-pitch ice climbing.

A great day out on a classic route. This was a trip with Niels M, who I met at the local climbing gym. We decided to leave Red Deer by 5am which would put us at the trailhead by around 8, early enough to beat the crowds. As we started the approach the sun was just starting to rise and within 15 minutes we were at the base of the ice. We soloed the initial WI2 ice, then alternated leads on the last 3 pitches. The first two pitches have bolted belays, and the last pitch reguires screw belays at the top and bottom. The descent down Rogans Gully is interesting and requires an abseil off a tree. Our initial plan was to head to Haffner or Heart Creek after Cascade but the lure of the Grizzly Paw was too much to beer/bear.

Date -Dec 10th, 05

Grade - WI3

Height Gain -300m

Location - Bow Valley

A nice view of the sun rising above the Bow Valley. Getting up at 4:30 does have its benefits.

Niels gearing up at the base of the WI 2 steps.

Early morning light on Cascade. Rambly ice leads to the main falls where the fun climbing starts.

The Bow Valley in black and white

Neils starting up the first pitch. Great weather, scenery and position on this route.

Neils climbing up pitch 1. Another pitch goes up to the top of the main falls, followed by a smaller pitch which leads you up to the top.

The final WI2 pitch. The descent traverses climbers left at the top to Rogans Gully.

Looking back at the top of the climb towards the Trans-Canada. The top of pitch 2 is at the bottom right.