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Three methods:

  • Method 1: Hash Oil Extraction With Supercritical Butane
  • Method 2: extraction of thc oil from marijuana
  • Method 3: The "Pet Ether"/Mason Jar Method

  • Method 1: Hash Oil Extraction With Supercritical Butane

    This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping supply store, ~US.50) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase. The only other thing needed is about .00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I believe), and two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.

    For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things "unofficially," butane (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber "honey oil" and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter. Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method. I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable "schwag" commercial pot too, and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.


    In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.

    In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker).

    After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.

    Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)

    Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.

    Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away. Seriously.

    Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+. Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.) Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2") the receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.

    Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.

    When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and let it do its thing.

    The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes. When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue of the extract. It is obvious no chlorophyll was pulled out of the herb.

    Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole). When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.

    Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature. The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water. Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20 minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing purity.

    The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane. I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained. But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all "superboiled" out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial. I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropanol.

    The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and potent. It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly what it does. Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils; the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off into your bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be allowed to burn up on your needle. So be careful.

    Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the product a little with a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like Everclear or 90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop it onto buds or let a joint absorb some, then let the alcohol evaporate. I also observed that unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol; it needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.

    Method 2: extraction of thc oil from marijuana

    If you ever had to think twice about lighting up a joint for fear of someone smelling it. If you were ever forced to blow the smoke out a window and pray you don't reek of weed. If you ever had to sneak around and couldn't enjoy a good buzz..."

    This article will describe, in detail, a technique of extracting the essential oils from hemp. The final product will be a dark, oily liquid that contains 70+% pure THC. The following steps require nothing more than simple, easy to find materials and a little time.

    Advantages of THC oil:

    No hot, harsh smoke to irritate your lungs

    No tar to stain your teeth and fingers

    Very little smell

    5 times as much THC in bloodstream

    Get 5 times as many "trips" per \\$$$ as compared to joint/bong smoking

    No carcinogens to give you cancer

    The list goes on and on but let's get down to business...

    Materials you'll need for extraction:

    A glass jar with a watertight lid (widemouth Mason jars work great)

    A metal measuring cup with handle (2 cup capacity recommended)

    Bottle of 190 proof grain alcohol (Everclear brand is perfect)

    Any quantity of pot, any strength (from a gram up to a few ounces)

    A 1' X 1' piece of sturdy cloth (t-shirt material works fine)

    An eye-dropper bottle (contact lens type bottles work great)

    The use of an ELECTRIC stove and its overhead fan

    Step 1

    You'll need to chop up your weed and pick apart the buds until it looks like grass clippings. Remove any seeds, they have their own oils which we don't want. Dump the powdered pot into the mason jar and pour in just enough grain alcohol so the weed particles float freely in the mixture. Place the lid securely on the jar and shake a few times.

    Let this mixture sit for a few hours, shaking it every once in a while. The alcohol should have turned a dark green color and when shaken should form colorful, oily bubbles on top.

    Place the sturdy cloth over the metal container and press the cloth down to form a funnel. Carefully pour the contents of the mason jar onto the cloth which is in the metal cup. Make sure to get most of the weed particles out of the jar. Gather up the edges of the cloth and squeeze the remaining liquid out of the lump of weed into the metal cup.

    Step 1a

    You should now have a quantity of dark green liquid in your metal measuring cup. It is possible to extract more THC oil from the remaining pot. I recommend performing Step 1 a second time immediately after completing it the first time. No sense throwing away the good stuff. Dump the pot from the cloth back into the mason jar and repeat step 1. You now have twice as much liquid in your metal cup upon repeating the first step.

    Step 2

    Be sure to use an electric stove in this step! (If you don't have one, read Step 2a)

    Take the metal cup containing the green liquid over to the stove. Turn one of the electric eyes on LOW setting and place the metal cup on that burner. I highly suggest using the fan over the stove to remove the alcohol vapors during this entire step. Watch the liquid closely. It should only boil slightly, never raise the burner temperature above MEDIUM LOW. We need the liquid to cook down until it's slightly thick. This may take some time but be patient.

    Once the liquid starts to thicken and turn darker, remove it from the heat. Never let it get too thick or it'll be too difficult to work with. If you do accidentally make it too thick, just add a small quantity of the grain alcohol to the metal cup and swirl it around till it's thinner.

    Let it cool down to room temperature inside the metal cup. It should be runny enough to be poured into the eye-dropper bottle easily. You now have your final product: THC oil. It's necessary to have some grain alcohol left in the resulting liquid so it's easy to work with. This will not affect the potency of the oil.

    Step 2a

    This part is for the people with gas stoves. Do not use a gas stove to cook down alcohol! The vapors will explode! You'll have to have patience to complete this step. To get a final product just put the metal container in a place where it won't be disturbed. The alcohol will have to evaporate on its own. If at all possible keep it in a slightly warm area with decent ventilation. It may take days.

    Once it's evaporated test to see if it's too thick. If it is, pour a small amount of grain alcohol in the metal cup and mix. Pour the liquid into your eye-dropper bottle.

    Smoking Instructions

    (NOTE: When smoking this oil in any form, do not let it come into direct contact with a flame. That destroys much of the THC and defeats the purpose of this whole project.)

    You have the oil in the eye-dropper bottle and you're ready to smoke some? Clean up your mess first. You don't want to have to explain why a rag of wet marijuana is lying on the kitchen table do you? Wash out the jar, the metal cup, and throw away the cloth. Throw away the weed too, it's useless. Use a water/alcohol mixture to wash out the jar and cup.

    Materials you'll need for smoking:

    A 5" X 5" piece of aluminum foil

    A Bic pen tube (take out all the stuff until it's hollow)

    A stationary flame source (a butane torch works best, but you can use a candle, lighter, etc.)

    The THC oil in the eye-dropper bottle

    Make a "spoon" out of the aluminum foil. This takes some practice but you'll get a design that works. Put 6-8 drops of the oil into the "spoon" and hold it about 4" over the flame. It should begin to boil slightly. Don't let it get too close to the flame just yet. It'll cook down and turn very dark brown and begin to make crackling sounds. Now you should lower the spoon so the THC is directly over the flame. The spoon is still face up, we're just really putting the heat to it. Hold the Bic pen tube about 1" above the dark brown area and inhale through the tube. You'll see a white smoke come up from the dark area, this is vaporized THC. Once you have a lungfull, remove the spoon from the flame. You'll feel the effects almost instantly. Exhale and place the spoon back over the flame and inhale again.

    Once you've smoked what's in the spoon, put a few more drops in and repeat as many times as you want. On occasion I've smoked so much at one time that all I could do was lay on the floor with a stupid look on my face. Also, I've noticed I get a bad case of "cotton mouth," it's normal.

    If you're a smoker, you can put a few drops into a cigarette, let it dry, and feel free to catch a buzz without the smell.

    Method 3: The "Pet Ether"/Mason Jar Method

    Coleman's (aka 'crude' naptha aka ligroin aka pet ether) will selectively remove canabinoids from your dry leaf and little else if you keep temps low (~ RT)extraction times short (~ 5 min shakings times 3,). But distill it first, not right from the can!

    Overall Description

    Distill pet ether from Coleman's camping fuel or equiv. Acetone, methanol, ethanol should be avoided as they rip too much junk out of the plant matter resulting in crappy product. In Glass Blender add trash/shake/bud and cover with pet ether. Blend for 5 mins, pour off pet ether, repeat 2 more times. (take proper precautions to put out fires!) Combine results, allow sediment to settle, decant, distill off pet ether. Mason jars are excellent vessels for this project. Punch 1/4" hole in top and soldier 3" of 1/4" copper pipe to mason jar lid. Create condesor out of 10' 1/4" copper pipe rolled into coil and immersed in cool water. For extra credit, combine resulting oil with loose cigarette tobacco, purchase pre-made cigarette tubes with filters (Rizla brand) from local smoke shop (200 for ) along with packing tool. End product smells like tobacco and will get you stoned. 80 grams trash = 24 cigs. Great for mixed company and bars! Have fun, bee safe! (pet ether & sparks = Fire!)

    Distillation of Coleman's/Ozark Trail Into Pet Ether and Condenser Assembly

    If one were to use the little butane blow torch (thin blue one found at most radio shacks) it is perfect for soldiering the copper pipe to the mason jar lid. Sand the top of the mason jar lid with steel wool to remove the varnish, punch hole using steel punch with the lid resting on soft piece of wood. Slip copper pipe into hole, heat the PIPE with the torch, use rosin cored soldier, smaller the better. hold lid with vise grips, don't use too much heat, just enough to get soldier to melt. If done correctly you will not burn the white coating on the inside of the mason jar lid. get some 3/8 clear tubing from home depot. connect this between mason jar and copper coil. Not-me put the copper coil in plastic pitcher, drilling a hole on the bottom for the end of the coil to stick out, and hot glued to seal. Fill pitcher with cool water run another piece of clear tubing from bottom of coil into 2nd mason that has TWO pipes soldiered to lid (liquid in and air out) Make sure this receiveing vesel is BELOW the level o f the bottom of the condensor! (usuall this vessel sits on the floor) To distill Colemans (actually the Ozark Trail brand from wally-mart gives better yield) Pour fuel into first mason jar and seal with one holed lid, put mason jar in 2 quart pot, fill pot with water, put pot on stove, plumb, turn on stove and bring water to gentle boil. Change water in condesor when it is very warm to touch. After you have your pet ether, blend it up with the trash/shake/bud. pour the now green/amber pet ether into clean mason jar. Repeat process for camping fuel distillation, but use the green/amber pet ether this time. Very little waste. distill off pet ether till you have 100 ml or so left, pour this over your tobacco and mix. Allow to air dry in front of fan. Then place in 230F oven to finish drying of the pet ether (if you don't it will taste like shit) unfortunatly the oven will also remove the moisture from the tobacco. You can throw tobacco in veggie steamer, or place moist paper towel in with it and cover with plastic rap and let sit over night. Pack cigs and have fun.

    More Condensers Anyone?

    My condensor is 5 foot of 1/4" OD soft copper pipe. Took large soup can, wraped copper pipe around it to create coil, then placed coil in 2 quart round rubbermaid cannister. Don't need anything fancy, pet ether is amazingly stable stuff, I have been using the same clear 3/8" OD (1/4" ID) tubing from Home depot since day one. I glued some legs (3/4" inside corner moulding) to the cannister so it is free standing at about a level just below the kitchen counter. This is an amazingly simple setup, It works well, has very little fumes (other than when running the blender), and its cheap. I've also had good results using the PVC and Butane, but its a little wastefull in my opinon, Venting all your solvent just doesn't feel right. Using the Pet ether process their are hardly any fumes, you get good yields, and you recycle your solvent. I can produce nearly 400 cigs using a single gallon of solvent. Your only loss is during the blending and transfer stages.


    The following method will yeild 'very pure' oil from the 'leaf' material left over after harvesting bud. It will not contain chlorophyll, or other coloring matter. If done carefully and 'exactly' as presented, will allow the formation of a very convincing (and satisfying) hashish substitute. A 1 liter (quart) mason jar makes an excellent extraction vessel. Larger amounts may be worked if the equipment allows. fill it about 1/2 full with well dried (low temp low humidity - dried quickly) pot leaf, **crushed but not to a fine powder**. cover the 1/2 liter leaf fragments with petroleum ether. The peth may be obtained by fractional distillation of Coleman's camp fuel. Use material boiling below ~70^C. DO NOT USE COLEMAN'S RIGHT OUT OF THE CAN. It contains several high boiling components which will not evaporate easily and will spoil your product. Cover the jar with the lid, close tightly, and shake vigorously for 5 minutes. Do not use heated solvent. Do not shake longer. Uncap, pour the liquid off, through a kitchen strainer to catch coarse pieces, and collect in a 2L. jar. repeat extraction 2 more times,with fresh cold peth, the third time only shake for 2 min. The extraction will have a yellowish color with a 'green' cloudy tone to it. equip a plastic funnel with a coffee filter, and pour the liquid through the filter into another container or the flask to be used for distilling solvent. The residue in the filter will be some dark color, or even light color, depending on the plant genetics and development. Save it! it is VERY good stuff. The liquid will now be a bright yellow color, with very little greenish tint. Distll the solvent off until only ~50mls. remain. Decant the thick liquid into a pyrex pie plate, rinse the flask with a few ml. peth and add to the pie plate. heat the pie plate slightly, while directing the air flow from a small fan on it's surface. When the last of the solvent is gone, heat a few moments more until a slight smoke indicates an increase in temp. remove from heat and allow to cool. The oil should setup to a very thick paste. It should be dark yellow/brownish and when held up to a bright light will look like HONEY!. Take the residue in the filter paper, seive it several times through a 'fine' kitchen seive, until it's a fine loose powder. (a microscopic exam at this point reveals millions of tiny hairs). discard any tiny chunks of leaf carried through at the end of seiving. Once the oil extract has solidified, using a narrow putty knife, add about 2/3 of the powder obtained to the pie plate on top of the extract, and work the powder into the oil. warming the plate slightly will help the two mix together. work it vigorously with the putty knife, until homogenous. It will probably require the entire amt. of powder to make hash of suitable consistancy, but may not so add small additional amounts and work it in. When you like what you've got, form into blocks and store in a cool dark place until used. Any hair powder left can be saved for another batch. If desired, the oil can used without the addition of the 'hair powder' and simply stored in a glass vial or other. This 'exploration' of the leaf and stem 'hair' powder, is original, as anyone has never seen any mention of it anywhere ever! This method has been used hundreds of times over 8 years. The only disappointments came when trying to increase yeild by using HOT solvent or shaking for long times. Soxhlet extractions are the worst!! doing so extracts fixed oils from the vegetative structures. These are not psychoactive and only reduce the potency of your oil. Also, powdering the leaf too fine increases the amt. of fixed oil in the extract. When there is too much fixed oil, the extract is thin and loose, and will not form 'firm' blocks of hash, but will be crumbly. It also affects flavour, as the fixed oils give it a 'smokiness' and 'oily' flavour.

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