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DAW k6 Quick Build Reference.

 

This model is available from Dave Aircraft Works.

 

Watch the video (660k)

 

 

WARNING THIS  PAGE Takes SOME TIME TO LOAD, Please be patient and I am sure you
will find it useful. It is targeted at Experience builders wanting to try Foam.

Note: After much flying, I have found it advisable to replace all the RED sullivan NI-rods with
        the BLUE stiff type. The weak yellow pushrod inside will BREAK where the
        threaded clevis rod joins the nylon

        It will also REMOVE flutter in the rudder.

References:

Goop -  Zap a Dap a GOO from the Zap company, NOT plumber's goop.
        Only Zap's Goop flows like pancake syrup, which is what you
        need to get an even spread.

West Systems (WS) #403 is a Glass and Cotten powder mixture Available
from FULL SCALE BOAT SHOPS and marinas.

Multiplex Chopped cotton powder is from www.multiplexrc.com

Epoxy Alone HAS NO strength.

Cotton  gives FLEXIBILITY
GLASS produces a rock hard joint.

** My Daw k6 does not utilize the winch joint but it is built using similar methods.

 

Apply Goop and insert the wing spar   

 use masking tape to keep the spar in place
you can also glue in the trailing edge basswood
spar and strap it together as one whole mess or
do it separately.

Weigh down both wings on a flat surface.

Route  the square depression for the plywood screw base that will sit on top of the brass joiner. Brass tube is set below the routed foam so that the ply joiner will be flushed to the  wing surface.

Check to see if the bottom of the balsa Root has protruded below the foam. It is normally oversized so that it can
be sanded down later. If you do not have enough balsa
protruding out of the foam, route the brass channel deeper

Apply 10 Min Epoxy mixed with West systems 403 filler or any filler of your choice to the bottom of the brass wing joiner and let it set. 

Insert Wing Rod while bpttom epoxy on brass tube is drying. *Marks  on Brass  tubes are due to sanding for more grip by
 the epoxy.

After the 10 min epoxy dries  glue in the hard balsa  Wing Root with Epoxy and WS#403 Mixture. Insert the Wing ROD while Glue is drying. Use MASKING TAPE to hold the root to the foam. For
an even spread use 30 min epoxy.

Do the same to the other wing after this after the epoxy
on the root balsa has cured.

 

 

After both wings base epoxy has cured

Mix 30min epoxy with West Systems #403 filler      (glass and cotton) or Multiplex chopped Cotton  and mix well. 

Use a sharp stick to poke in all the epoxy to fill up all the gaps. Press in the ply wing bolt holder.

Masking tape around edges of wing to kelp ply fastener down.

Work on the fuse now while 30 min epoxy sets on the wings.

To secure wooden bolts onto foam, the best way is to  glue the ply wood into the EPP with GOOP and then  spray with 3m77 after which, apply 3m Strapping Tape in a Criss Cross section so that protection for an all direction shear, is maximized.

When the 30 min epoxy has cured on the wing joiners, glue in the outer  wing after routing the correct Spar Channel.       

Weigh down and set dry

WARNING: When GLUING THE SHAPED BALSA TRAILING EDGE TO THE TRAILING BASSWOOD SPAR OF THE INNER WING PANEL.


make sure that the BALSA trailing edge protrudes out of both sides of the inner wing panel. Hold and apply CA to the balsa and the trailing  basswood spar. Once The CA is dry, then you can SAND off the extra balsa on both edges of the wing panel.

 If you do not do this, then there will be a Cosmetic problem as the balsa may not jive with the shape of the wings at each end.

Use a SERVO CONNECTOR (blue square) DO NOT SOLDER servo lead to save on 1 connector.
the reason is that when you are away far from home and the servo breaks, Changing it would be easy!!

TWIST THE SERVO WIRES to prevent cross talk from stray signals caused by long servo leads.

USE METAL GEAR SERVOS. Plastic Gear ones will
BREAK Very fast during a hard landing with a Cartwheel.
Suggested: Multiplex FLAT servos for the mini-asw27.

Route servo channels and insert servos. note twisted wires. Holes has already been drilled
on the wing. 

 

Flush up the gaping hole in the brass tube area and shape the ailerons now.


Make sure ailerons have been sanded with a 45 degree edge so that they can move!

 

Glue the wing holders to the fuse with  goop.

 

Note servo travel channel. Goop in the Ply tow release and WHILE the GOOP is wet, seat in the servo and the works and move the servo by hand to make sure there is no binding. let the GOOP dry while the tow release pin in inserted inside the tow release.
this will ensure that there will be NO BINDING because the GOOP sets  the ply tow release at the best angle in the X Y and Z plane of view to minimize any stress.

Make sure there is enough clearence for  the pushrod and servo arm swing. A strong servo  is required for releasing the tow to make sure nothing funny happens   in flight. 

Route the channels for the wheels and trial fit the structure

Apply Goop and use the screwdriver to keep the wheel from being squeezed in by the stress of the clamps. If this is not done, when the GOOP sets, the wheel will not turn properly
as goop has the ability to set things at any angle.

Drill and TAP the 1/4 inch Imperial screws with a drill and Tap set. Move the TAP in and out and
wriggle it a few times to make sure that the Nylon screws can be freely twisted in  by hand.


DRILLING IS DONE BY PLACING THE WING AND H STAB ONTO THE FUSE.

Align it , secure by masking tape and drilling right through with a drill bit LESS than the Taping
DRILL BIT diameter! Then use a tap and drill set to
get the holes right.

 Use 1/64 Ply to protect the TOP HOLE on the trailing
edge balsa  otherwise the hole will get BIGGER and BIGGER  over time. 

Shape the fuse and route in ALL the servo holes, battery holes.

Insert all servo wires by cutting a grove with a sharp blade cutter and push in the wires by hand. Secure all pushrods carriers, cover all parts that must not have glue (wheels and servo arms, receiver bay, wire heads) and spray with 3m77 spray.

 weight loading hole.

Note wing servo wires which is an extension to the receiver bay, note hole for receiving spare servo wires once the wing is secure

Beeper and voltage indicator  Note beepers are at top and bottom so that model can be heard rightside up and upside down.

Note servo channels, just a simple cut. If channels are to cross each other, cut one channel deeper than the other.
COVER the Vertical Fin. FIT IN THE Horizontal stab and CA TACK the Vertical fin. Later Epoxy with multiplex cotton powder
or WS 403.

 

NOTE: Make sure Sullivan Rod for Rudder is STIFF and secure as much as possible. Otherwise the rudder will FLUTTER badly. I suggest that the RED sullivan for the rudder be replace with the BLUE sullivan to remove this problem. (proven to be true)
Also the pushrod will break where the threaded clevis rod goes into
the nylon.

 

use the wing rod to apply tape at strange angles. Make sure 3m77 has already been sprayed first.

remember the Criss crossing of tape. Servo is NOT glued in but depends on the tape to hold it down. This makes for EASY changing while on a REMOTE flying trip.

 

When the TOW release has been taped, there is a Great danger of the 3m Strapping tape fouling and
jamming the release mechanism. To prevent this use BABY POWDER. Pour in a LOT of it and BLOW
into the hole. Leave some scraps of power and tape up the powder fill hole that was cut.

 

Completed taping of tow release filled with powder.

 

Route the holes for the TELARIO TELEMETRY, SPEECH feedback system

See 

http://www.thommys.com/html/telario_talk.html

Operates on 434.100 to 434.700mhz.

English speech is available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completed DAW k6 next to a Rodell 4.5 Meter k6.

 

Flight performance is good. It can BEAT a Gentle lady.

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