It has been said there are three major pilgrimage methods in which a true devotee can achieve liberation from the cycle of life, death and rebirth. One is to meditate within the Virupaksha Cave on Mount Arunachala where the venerated sage Sri Ramana Maharshi lived from 1899 to 1916 in silence and solitude (he later moved to the Skandasraman cave, a few minutes more up the hill, where he lived from 1916 to 1922, but it is not considered as holy). The second is by making the climb to the top of Arunachala's holy peak (where it is reported a yogi lives who has not eaten since 1990. See Haadi Vidya Siddhi). And the third is the custom of Giri Valam, circumambulating the base of Mount Arunachala.

The custom of Giri Valam, Giri Pradakshina, or Pradakshina Giki-Dakshina, has been in use since times immemorial. For the Enlightened Indian holy man Bhagavan Shri Ramana Maharshi, the Sage of Arunachala, this was a regular and enjoyable thing. He used to say that  the red sores caused by the sharp pebbles on the soles, while doing Giri Valam on barefoot, will be the rubies for the crown of the Lord.

The word Pradakshina itself has profound meaning.

• PRA - Expels sins

• DA - Grants ones wishes

• KSHI - Destroys karma

• NA - Liberation /Self Realization/Death of the Ego.

The word Giri Valam translates thus:

• GIRI - Hill

• VALAM - Circumambulation

Giri Valam should be undertaken after having a bath, on bare foot, with a pure and meditative mind. It is better to do it alone or at least the group should be small. It is better to observe silence  or silent chanting of Arunachala.

There are numerous temples, shrines, thirthams (tanks) and lingams on the route worth visiting, seeing and worshiping. The book Arunachala - Holy Hill by Skandananda (R.Henninger), published by Shri Ramanashramam, is a thoroughly researched and an excellent guide. It is a must before undertaking Giri Valam.

LINGAMS:

At each of the eight cardinal directions along the Circumambulation Route are lingas or lingams, enshrined in stone edifices, each with a sacred pool by the side. The first one along the route is the due east linga, Indra Lingam. Then comes Angi Lingam at the southeast cardinal point followed by Yama Lingam taking up the directly south location. In the the southwest position is Nirutthi Lingam, then Varuna Lingam exactly due west. In the northwest position is Vaayu Lingam followed by the due north linga, Kubera Lingam. The eighth and last is the northeast linga, Eesaanya Lingam. Daily worship is conducted for some, but many are devoid of any worship. Some of them do have a Vimana, Antarala and a Sanctum.

Here are a few of the important places to visit:

1. ARUNACHALESHWARA TEMPLE. The main temple of Tiruvannamalai. Pictures and graphics of the temple, including a temple plan can be found at the bottom of this page. It is located at position #18 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

   The usual, or classic, starting point for beginning Giri Valam is through the East Gopuram (tower) of the main temple. Acceptable as well is starting at Indra Lingam and ending instead, in the main temple. In either case, visit the Brahma Lingam within the temple, making your way toward the South Gopuram, then on to the Indra Lingam. While within the main temple grounds be sure to see the Thousand-pillared Hall and (attempt) to see the underground vault, Patala Lingam, where the young Sri Ramana spent his early days.

2. INDRA LINGAM. Due East. First cardinal point Ashta Dik Lingam on the giri valam route. For specific information regarding each of the individual Lingams, including graphics, click: LINGAMS.

3. AYYANKULAM TANK. Not long after Sri Ramana arrived in Tiruvannamalai he walked out of the temple grounds and someone called out and asked if he wanted his tuft removed. He consented, and was conducted to the Ayyankulam tank where a barber shaved his head. He threw what little money he had with him into the pond together with the sweets that had been given him. He thought, "This body died away, why make a fuss about it?'" returning to settle down in the temple.

4. GURUMURTAM. The shrine Sri Ramana moved to initally after leaving the underground vault in the main temple. It was here that he began being looked after by Palaniswami, the person who was to spend the rest of his life in the service of Sri Ramana as his personal attendant.
   
   GURUMURTAM
   

5. ANGI LINGAM. South East. Second of cardinal point lingams along the route.

6. SESHADRI SWAMI ASHRAM, #19 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

7. SRI RAMANA ASHRAM, #20 on the CLICK THROUGH map.
   
   (please click)
   

   ASHRAM OF
   Sri Ramana Maharshi

   
   

   
   

   
   

8. SKANDASHRAM CAVE AND VIRUPAKSHA CAVE. Neither cave is actually on the circumabulation route, however, both are must visits. Skandashram Cave is a small cave about 800 feet above and behind the Ramana Ashram off the main route. Virupaksha cave is about 200 feet below that. Virupaksha Cave is named after a great yogi and saint of Thiru who preceded Ramana. He had a large following and one day he told them he wanted to be alone in the cave. After a while they started to wonder about him. When they entered the cave all they found was a pile of ashes. Ramana subsequently took over the cave and formed the ashes into a tall pile.
   
   

   THE PATH BEHIND THE ASHRAM LEADING TO BOTH CAVES
   (PHOTO COPYRIGHT SRI RAMANASRAMAM)

   
   

   
   

   Higher up, the path curves round to the east slope. Just below the main peak are the Seven Springs located in small crevices of a huge rock where there is cool water year around even in the hottest weather. Above Seven Springs is a mound of boulders at the entrance to another cave. Sri Ramana often sat there with his devotees. Swami Ramdas, under Sri Ramana's guidance, spent nearly a month in a cave on the slopes of Arunachala in constant chanting of Ramnam. It was his first occasion that he went into solitude. After twenty-one days, when he came out of the cave he saw a strange, all-pervasive light: everything was Ram and only Ram (God).

   
   

   KARTIKAI FESTIVAL
   

   From there the main peak is a steep climb. At the summit is a large flat stone with enormous rock-cut feet on it. It is on this large flat stone the huge cauldron filled with ghee is placed every year at the festival of Kartikai and lit. The ten foot high by five feet diameter cauldron is carried to the top by fifteen Nadars who take turns shouldering the sacred load using poles shoved into three handles on each side.

   Once atop the hill the cauldron is filled with ghee and camphor. Before lighting, the wick, which is made of "ghada" cloth measuring more than 1000 feet long, is immersed in ghee as well, then dumped in to the vat. The whole concoction is lit at a signal (usually around 6 pm) from the main temple.

   Nearly six hundered pounds of ghee is used to burn the flame, which when lit, shoots up over seven feet high and can be seen for miles around.

   On the day it is lit, although there is just enough space to accomodate only about a hundred people at the top, many, many more than that trek up the hill to make personal offerings of ghee which is then poured into the cauldron by two Nadars and two temple staff.

   Why are there huge carved feet at the very top of the mountain? Because there is no top or bottom, there are no parts, there is just wholeness.

   Far from the path, along the the northern slope, is the place where it is said Arunagiriswara, the great Siddhapurusha, the Spirit of Arunachala, abides. It is this sage, "God in the form of Arunachala," who is worshipped in the great temple in Tiruvannamalai. There is a legend that anyone who can find their way to this eternal Sage in this almost inaccessible abode high above the temple will receive Realization. Thus far, only Sri Ramana Maharshi is known to have done so, and he already had Realization.

   There was an old woman, said by Ramana and others to have been a "spirit" of the mountain, who somehow knew or sensed the Bhagavan had "died" twice before, having had is First Death Experience in 1896 at age 17 that transformed his Awareness to the Abosolute. He then had a much deeper Second Death Experience in 1912. Sometime afterwards Ramana was roaming around OFF the trails of the holy mountain Arunachala as he often did in those days when the old woman he passed asked him point blank why he wandered so and not just sit quiet. In that he was dead, she implies, why was he not put on the funeral pyre! From that day forward Sri Bhagavan gave up roaming the hillside, limiting his walks to Pradakshina, circumambulation of the holy hill, or climbing to the summit.

9. SRI YOGI RAMSURATKUMAR ASHRAM
   
   

   ASHRAM OF
   Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar

   
   

10. PALAKOTHU and Agasthiya Tirtham (tank at Palakothu). Palakothu is the location of the small ashram of Annamalai Swami, Enlightened follower of Sri Ramana and onetime aide to the Maharshi.
    

11. DRUPADHI AMMAN KOIL. Temple of Draupathi, Dharmaraja and other Pandavas, amidst Grama Devatas (village Gods and Demi gods). Daily poojas are performed by a non-brahmin pujari (priest). #1 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

    There is a beautiful sculpture of Vediappar , in black granite, in the open. Though such sculptures are common in pottery (terracota), this one is in granite.

    Moola Vigrahas (presiding deities) of Dharmaraja and Draupati are in black granite. Sculptures in wood and painted in bright colours, of the five Pandava princes, are kept behind the Moola vigrahas.

    Draupathi and the five Pandavas are the main characters of the Hindu epic, Mahabharatha written by sage Vyasa.

    The compound wall is in a dilapitated condition and needs restoration.

    NOTE:
    

    As you can tell by going to the CLICK THROUGH map, Site #1, the Draupadi Amman Koil, is adjacent to the Sri Ramana ashrama. In and around the milieu of the streets and environs of the Sri Ramana ashram and the nearby ashram of Sri Seshadri Swamigal there are many, many sadhus and holy men, would-bees, wanta-bees, and otherwise, found in the area, many of them eeking our their living from the free food offerings of the Sri Ramanashramam and what little money that may be given by visitors / devotees. In the spiritual path it is very difficult to differentiate the chaff from the grain.  Many an Enlightened soul may be lost in the crowds of beggars/sadhus and many a rascal and false guru may be circulating in pomp, popularity and wealth.

    
    

    "Many people have the Great Vehicle Root Nature, but there are also many people who lie. Having cultivated without success, such people claim to have the way. Though they have not certified the fruit, they claim to be certified sages." (source)
    

    
    

    It should be remembered, however, even though the above may be the case, that a brand new, rather extensive ashram in the same general area as the Sri Ramana ashram has been built by devotees of Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar who for years and years spent his days usually with a group of followers under a tree in a farmer's field by the railway station, the Arunachaleswara Temple, or merely on the parapet wall near the temple chariot place. Regarding the Yogi, before the building of his ashram, the Daily Hindu dated July 8, 1990 published the following:

    Yogi Ramsuratkumar is no different from the scores of beggars who hang around the magnificent Arunachaleswarar Temple in Tiruvannamalai(Tamil Nadu). The casual passerby is unlikely to give him a second glance. Neither in the distinctive ochre robes of the sanyasi nor the spotless white of the saint, the earthy hues of his unassuming attire blend with the surroundings.
    

    
    

12. YAMA LINGAM. Due south. Third of the cardinal point lingams

13. SONA OR SOMA TIRTHAM - Sona means gold or sun. Soma has various meanings in both Sanskrit and Hindu. If used correctly here it most probably relates to the moon deity Soma. The moon was said to hold the ambrosia, soma. Due to his association with the moon, Soma became associated with Chandra, the moon deity before him. Thirtham means tank or a well or a source of water. The place is cool, shady and serene. It is a good place for a break or short rest, during the arduous pradakshina. It is said that Sri Ramana Maharshi used to stop here for a short rest. Two beautiful nandhis (bulls) are on the entrance to the thirtham. Sri Vighneswara, in the temple adjacent to the thirtham, is called (Jyothi Vinayagar)

    Vishwakarma Para Brahma temple - In the same vicinity, on the other side of the road, is the temple of Vishwakarma Para Brahmam (a demi god responsible for creation). The idol is housed in a metal wire mesh enclosure and pujas are being performed. The idol has five faces and beautiful in black granite.

    Lakshmi Ammal was friend of Sri Ramana from his boyhood days, and was totally devoted to him. She visited the Ashram often. Bhagavan used to affectionately call her Lakshmi, as he had since childhood. Very early on, when both were still quite young, Sri Ramana and a few others went on a circumabulation around the Hill and Lakshmi joined them. Near Sona Tirtham the group halted for a rest. Nearby was a laburnam tree filled with lustrous golden-yellow flowers. Lakshmi started picking the flowers and placing them in a cloth spread on the ground. After a while, the party was ready to resume their walk. When Sri Ramana got up he noticed Lakshmi busily engaged, and, walking over to her, asked, "Lakshmi! What are you doing?" She replied, "I am picking flowers." Bhagavan pointed to the heap of flowers already lying on the cloth and said, "You already have enough, why are you picking more?" She replied, "All these flowers, if left unplucked, would go waste. That is why I am picking so many as possible." Bhagavan was visibly annoyed and said sarcastically, "Yes, Yes! It was you, wasn't it, who planted it, watered it and reared it? Is not all that going waste? Now that you have seen it and enjoyed its beauty, thats enough, others need not. So, strip the tree of all its flowers to your hearts content!"

14. NIRUTTHI LINGAM. South west. Fourth of the cardinal point lingams. While it is possible to see the peak of the Holy Hill Arunachala from all eight lingams, the view from this lingam is most important because it shows two parts of the mountain, Siva and Sakthi, aligned perfectly together.

    Temple and dharmasala of saint Vallalar - this temple is on the right of the road after Nirutthi Lingam and before Nir Annamalayar Temple. Another new temple is coming up a few hundred yards off the road, to the left. Saint Vallalar worshiped god as light (jyothi). He was a man of utmost love and compassion for all the living creatures. It is said that he would weep at the sight of even a withering crop. He firmly believed in anna dana or free offering of food to the needy.

    Share the Kanji (a liquid gruel made out of rice), being offered to sadhus living in that area. It was highly invigorating and sustaining during pradakshina, early in the morning, on empty stomach.

15. SIDDASRAMAN. Siddha Parai - once a leper, shunned by family and friends, came to Bhagavan, narrated his woes and said he preferred death. Sri Bhagavan remained silent and indifferent. A devotee recited the eleven verses of Arunachala pathikam, composed by Bhagavan, one of which says "Arunachala is the drug for those who wish to give up their life, burdened by miseries. This drug which kills the person (the ego) without actually killing him, is none other than the Holy Hill Arunachala."

    The leper set about on pradakshina, meditating on Arunachala. In his condition, exhausted, he fell asleep on a rock. He was awakened by a voice which enquired why he was lying there. The leper saw a person dressed white. The strange person beat the leper with a twig of neem tree and implored him to get up and leave the place as he had no business there.

    Frightened, the leper started running and only after a little while later he realised that he had been completely cured. From that time the rock is called Siddha Parai (after the siddar who cured the leper).

    The Holy Hill is the place of penance for many sages, siddhars and celestial beings. Sri Bhagavan, who used to roam freely on the hill, has been by admonished by siddhars, directly and indirectly, not to venture to certain spots and disturb them in their penance.

16. SIRIYA LINGAM

17. VARUNA LINGAM. Due west. Fifth of the cardinal point lingams.

18. UNNAMALAI AMMAN SHRINE. This temple is described as Rajeswari temple in Hemminger’s book. The idol is in a slanting pose. The story goes that Shiva and Parvathi, mounted on the white bull, Nandi, gave darshan to Bhirunghi Maharshi (Brighu?). The sage , who recognized and worship only Shiva and no one else, was about to dig a hole , by taking the form of 'vandu' a type of insect, between Shiva and Parvathi and thus make pradakshina of Shiva alone. Parvathi, belittled, made way by leaning to one side.

    The idol is swayambhu meaning born by itself and not sculpted. As evidence, he showed the Holy Mother’s feet, which do not have metti, the sacred rings. The metti will invariably be present if idols are sculpted by artists.

    The godess is without mangalyam (sacred thread and pendents, tied round the necks of Hindu, married women). It is tied by a priest, after placing it in the hands of Lord Shiva, during an auspicious time.

19. ADI ANNAMALAI TEMPLE - Adi Annamalai means first and ancient Annamalai (Arunachaleshwara). Unlike the main temple in the town, this is a small and compact temple. The story goes as follows: Brahma, immediately after the episode of the dispute with Vishnu, made a lingam, went to the other side of the Hill and worshiped Shiva. Thus, this lingam is supposed to be the first, ancient and original lingam of Annamalai and hence the name Adi Annamalai.

    Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi used to camp here in the nights, during his pradakshinas and said he heard celestial recital of Sama Veda. #13 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

20. VAAYU LINGAM. North west. Sixth of the cardinal point lingams.

21. KUBERA LINGAM. Due north. Seventh of the cardinal point lingams.

22. IRATTAI PILLAIARR GANESH SHRINE. Pillayar is another name of Ganesa. There is s narrow passage, between two columns. It is said that if a devotee manages to pass through the columns his wish will be fulfilled. #14 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

23. PANCHAMUKA SHRINE - from this place one can see all the five faces of the Holy Hill Arunachala. #16 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

24. EESAANYA LINGAM. North east. Eighth and final cardinal point Ashta Dik Lingams on the giri valam route. It is said that after meeting Swami Ramdas one night in Meenakshi Temple in Madura, it was at this lingam the young American chronicled by W. Somerset Maugham in The Razor's Edge made his decision to stay and study under Sri Ramana Maharshi, eventually Awakening to the Absolute through the grace and light of the Maharshi.

    It should be noted that the young American, called Larry Darrell in the novel by Maugham and based on a real person, travels clear to the south of India, meets the Maharshi, called my Maugham in the novel, Sri Ganesha, and is invited to stay at the ashrama. However, Maugham also writes that Darrell did not stay at the ashrama continuously. He had met a man that was a forestry officer and devotee of Sri Ramana who would spend a few days at a time at the ashrama. The forestry officer gave Darrell a key to a secluded forest service bungalow that was a two-day journey by bus followed by a long hike high into the mountains. It was in that isolated area that Darrell had his Awakening experience, which means his Enlightenment did NOT occur on or about Arunachala or at the ashrama like one might expect. A highly unusual twist by Maugham, especially for how important it should be, you would think, to have had Darrell Awaken under the direct auspices of the Maharshi and the Holy Mountain.(source)

    As a young boy, the Wanderling, whose mentor was the same person Maugham used as his role model for Larry Darrell, visited the ashram of Sri Ramana. While there he met another anglo boy his same age that eventually grew up at the ashram by the name of Adam Osborne. The following is what Osborne related to the Wanderling regarding walking around the holy mountain when they met in later years as adults:

    
    

    "Although I was truly not able to recall anything he (i.e., Adam Osborne in the original text) told me about the two of us being in India together as kids, he said he remembered me quite well because I was the only anglo boy his age he ever really met in his early years. He said he could not remember if our time together was long or short, if it lasted just days or stretched into weeks, but he did remember, even though he was not doing meditation specifically like I was, the two of us still found time to run all over the place getting in trouble --- even to the point of being admonished by the Maharshi. He also told me we had participated in Giri Valam, circumambulation of the holy hill Arunachala, although he did not recall if we completed the walk or who we went with. Neither too, did he remember if the two of us ever climbed to the top or visited the caves." (source)

    
    

25. EESAANYA MUTT. This is the place he settled down, as per the wish of Lord Arunachala. #17 on the CLICK THROUGH map.

26. DURGAIAMMAN TEMPLE

27. PAVALAKUNRU TEMPLE

ARUNACHALESWARAR TEMPLE.
VIEW I, LOOKING WEST

THE PICTURE ABOVE IS SEEN FACING THE TEMPLE LOOKING DUE WEST ACROSS THE TOP OF THE EAST GOPURAM (TOWER) TOWARD THE WEST GOPURAM. DUE NORTH IS TO THE RIGHT, DUE SOUTH TO THE LEFT. SEEN FROM THE TOP VIEW OF THE TEMPLE PLAN BELOW, THE EAST GOPURAM IS SHOWN ON THE FAR RIGHT.

NORTH

SOUTH

ARUNACHALESWARAR TEMPLE.
VIEW II, LOOKING EAST

THE PICTURE ABOVE IS THE TEMPLE SEEN FROM THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION OF VIEW I. FROM THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN LOOKING EAST ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WEST GOPURAM TOWARD THE EAST GOPURAM. NORTH IS TO THE LEFT, SOUTH TOWARD THE RIGHT.

Temple and Temple Plan graphic courtesy
TIRUVANNAMALAI ONLINE

Sri Ramana Maharshi The holy sage of Tiruvannamalai.

Sri Seshadri Swamigal Rescued the young Ramana from being eaten by insects.

Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar. Studied under Sri Ramana and Swami Ramdas.

Here Lies the Heart Mercedes De Acosta's meeting with Ramana

Pradakshina -- Giri Dakshina -- Giri Valam A devotee writes about her walk around the Holy Mountain.

Introduction to Arunachala Giri Valam. The Siddha Way of Circling the Arunachala Hill

The Last American Darshan A young boy experiences the Grace and Light of Sri Ramana.

THE MEETING: An Untold Story of Sri Ramana A highly unexpected event with the Maharshi unfolds

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