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The Leopard Gecko Caresheet

Issues Covered

Eublepharis macularius

Adult Length:(whole) 8 inches(snout-vent) 5 inches

Background

The Leopard Gecko is by far the most popular pet lizard available. With its small, hardy size, brilliant colorations, and easy care, the Leopard Gecko as become the leader in pet lizards. Leopard Geckos come from the eastern part of The Middle East. They live in dry desert regions and make their home underneath rocks. Active at dusk, these lizards live in small groups of only one male. They are one of the few geckos that lack the ability to climb straight up glass like most. These animals are more docile than most geckos, but will lose their tail if threatened.

Housing

Leopard Geckos require very little space. A group of two females and a male can be house in a 15 gallon tank. Leopards are little active, and this space will be plenty. A hide box that can fit all of them should be provided with moist bedding to help shedding. Basking branches should be sturdy and smooth so they don’t rub on the gecko’s fragile skin. Substrate should either be sand, wood chips, or large polished pebbles. Carpet is to abrasive and dirt is to humid. Leopard Geckos usually defecate in one corner of the cage and only there.

Heating

Heating is necessary for these animals since they rely on the outside to keep their body warm. A basking zone positioned over a rock is a good idea. Day temperatures should be around 95 degrees and be achieved using a 100 watt light bulb. Night time temperatures should be around 75 degrees by using an infra red light bulb. Keeping the heat up helps digest the lizard’s meal.

Lighting

Leopard Geckos are nocturnal animals, so they don’t like bright light. It has also been proven that these animals need very little to no UV rays due to their nightly nature. Although using UV lights couldn’t hurt. A nice black light or red light used at night will not only provide a darker light so they think it is night, but also is bright enough to view the animals.

Feeding

Leopard geckos eat insects, some greens, and even baby mice. Baby and juveniles should be fed everyday until about eight months old. However, some will prefer to eat every other day. They should be fed enough crickets, chopped up greens can be offered every now and then. mealworms, or any other insects until they look full. Use your best judgement. Tails should be fat and the bodies should be round with no showing of bones. Adults can be fed four times a week and can be fed baby mice and grasshoppers. Food should never be larger than the gecko’s head. Powder calcium should be placed on the bottom of the food bowl, as well as being dusted on the food.

Breeding

To breed these animals are easy. First get a male with up to five females. A cooling period is not necessary, but couldn’t hurt. After bring up the temperatures again, feed the geckos until full and fat. Keep this feeding routine until the season is over. Provide double intake of calcium to the females with water and food supplements. Once the male is introduced, signs of mating are head grabbing and pinning. Gravid females are obvious because the eggs can be seen through the belly. The females will lay two eggs per clutch, six clutches per season, in the moist

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