Running head: AVOIDING DISCRIMINATION IN CLOTHING AMONGST TEENS

How to Design a Line of Clothing Avoiding Discrimination Amongst Teens

Amanda M. Robinson

POLYTECH High School of Kent County, Woodside, Delaware

Abstract

Is it possible to design a clothing line today without discriminating against any of America's teens? In today's world teenagers come across thousands of advertisements and logos each and every day. Just a simple swoosh check mark, three lines, or a wave over a mountain are a few examples of some trademarks familiarized by most students. One may not realize it, but these advertisements cause discrimination amongst all teenagers whom wear different designer labels. In order to avoid such aspects of advertising a designer label, one would have to learn how to avoid discrimination, learn to be an entrepreneur, and design a new line of clothing.

How to Design a Line of Clothing Avoiding Discrimination Amongst Teens

It is a typical school day in America, and America’s typical teenager wakes up to the sound of the alarm in perhaps a NIKE t-shirt, a pair Ralf Lauren socks, and an unlabeled pair of shorts. This American teenager then gets ready and sets off for school. As this teenager strives for independence wearing a favorite brand name of clothing, the bell soon signals a rush of adolescent bodies from the doorways of classrooms. A myriad of styles covers these contemporary teenagers for the new millennium in the year 2000. A representation of a flag with red and blue is stretched across most teens with the known trademark Tommy Hilfiger, along with other trademarks such as Fubu, Billabong, and Nike. As the teenagers move with exuberant energy, they all represent an identity with a particular peer group as they each strive for independence. Today’s American teenager is constantly pressured and disturbed by these designer labels which often causes each teen to discriminate against other teens wearing different labels. To avoid such aspects in today’s world, it is possible to design a clothing line to avoid discrimination for different types of teenagers. To do this, one would have to learn how to avoid discrimination in advertising, learn to be an entrepreneur, and design a new line of clothing.

Discrimination in Advertising

A stereotype is a mental picture that one group has of another; it is a false characterization designed to degrade a specific group (Edwards, 1992). Stereotyping also means "set image," which comes from the process of fixing pictures of a group of individuals, usually based on false or incomplete information which are applied negatively (Francais, 1999).

Discrimination is the denial of equality based on personal characteristics (Francais, 1999). Edwards (1992) stated, "When one group of human beings feels superior to another group because of differences in race, religion, social status, or ethnic origin, group attitude or mind-set shapes the thinking of the ‘superior’ group" (p.20). Thus, as teenagers strive for independence, they dress differently to symbolize a need for being superior (Flynn, 1999).

Flynn (1999) pointed out, "Adolescent dress is a form of communication that carries non-verbal messages to its audience composed of teenage peers and adults" (p.1). Adolescent dress represents teenage values of identity with a particular peer group (Flynn, 1999). Flynn (1999) also stated, "Clothing is a language, a nonverbal system of communication that through its symbol conveys much about the wearer to the viewer" (p.1). Before people speak to one another, their clothing makes a statement that expresses their occupation, origin, and personality, gender, age, class, as well as what they are or what they want to be at that particular moment (Flynn, 1999). When an individual wants to emulate a social group or role, dress can identify its wearer (Flynn, 1999). People often send messages such as conservatism, flamboyance, sophistication, or toughness when buying clothing (Flynn, 1999).

Clothing is also worn to satisfy the contradictory need for modesty, the desire for attention, and protection (Flynn, 1999). Practical clothing at times becomes more fashionable rather than protective; however, to protect people from the extremes of climate, clothing is chosen for the purpose of utility (Flynn, 1999).

Many teenagers are members of minority groups, it is important to understand how status affects their choices in dress (Flynn, 1999). The quality of materials is not necessarily any better than unlabeled clothes, although the labeled clothing is more expensive (Flynn, 1999). When a minority group is denied access to the status symbols available to the rest of the population as a result of oppression, the minority group will seek out a means to raise self-esteem (Flynn, 1999). Therefore, clothing is one of the most easily exhibited symbols of status availability (Flynn, 1999).

There are at least a dozen teen "tribes" defined by their fashion. "Ravers," for example, listen to techno groups such as Fatboy Slim and Portishead and wear plastic pants, beads, and neon shirts with such labels as Shug and Fiction (Hunter, 1999). "Boarders," by contrast, tune into Offspring and Korn, and wear punk-band t-shirts, JNCO’s, and Vans sneakers (Hunter, 1999). Altculture (1999a) described that "skate fashion moved from surf-derived "radwear" and shiny plastic padding to baggy pants and oversized shirts with enough give for midair maneuvers and enough strength to stand a few scrapes on the pavement" (p.1). The result is a teen culture without a single overriding identity (Hunter, 1999). Stores are trying to cut through the entrenched wariness of teens with ad campaigns that focus less on the product and more on the lifestyle of the targeted teens (Captive Kids, 1999). In addition, Altculture (1999c) has stated, "Advertisers must tell people that they are special and different from the crowd" in order to sell (p.1). To get at the potential windfall, advertisers are aiming their commercials and advertisements straight at teens or what catches the teens interest, causing discrimination amongst others (Captive Kids, 1999).

An ad campaign, for example, would be Nike who has implored since 1988 "Just Do It." Interestingly, less than half of Nikes are worn for their stated cross-training or sports use; within the company, this is euphemistically known as "implied performance." Altculture, (1999b) stated, "All the TV deals, tickets and paraphernalia of the NBA, NFL, and major league baseball combined, has made the company the prime symbol of the commercialization of sports" (p.1). This is just one of the reasons ads can become so discriminative.

The Consumers Union found that corporations and other organizations target Americans with more than 30,000 commercial messages per year (Captive Kids, 1999). Limited boosterism is overshadowed by national marketing or advocacy efforts from major companies that often put corporate logos, brand names, and other messages before teenagers (Captive Kids, 1999).

Entrepreneurship

What is an entrepreneur? An entrepreneur "is an individual who is willing to take the risk of investing time and money in a business" (Moorman & Halloran, 1993, p.2). Additionally, entrepreneurship can be seen as the act of managing an enterprise that has the potential to make a profit or incur a loss (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Entrepreneurs come from all types of backgrounds; there are no age barriers, nor educational requirements (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Moorman and Holloran (1993) also stated that "entrepreneurs can create businesses of all shapes and sizes" (p.3). Therefore, entrepreneurs are the foundation of the small business sector of the economy, which accounts for more than half of the jobs in America and the majority of the new product innovation (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). These small business owners are "essential to the economic strength of the country" (Moorman & Halloran, 1993, p.4). Entrepreneurs must be engaged in the transfer of goods from the producer to consumer and must develop the product, warehouse, transport, insure, finance, and promotion for the selected business (Marketing, 1993).

When planning a small business, there are many ways of getting started. Becoming an entrepreneur requires time, effort, know-how, and a sense of adventure (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). If the entrepreneur has identified an idea that seems promising, he or she must begin preparing for the journey that will transform the idea into a business success (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Good planning is the key to a business success whether the entrepreneur is going to start a new business, buy and establish a business, purchase, or franchise (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

In becoming an entrepreneur, having a written description of all the steps necessary to ensure success would be designing a business plan (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). The business plan is a manual to help any entrepreneur during the start-up phase when beginning a business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). The plan also states "the entrepreneur’s expectations, which serve as criteria by which business performance can be periodically evaluated" (Moorman & Halloran, 1993, p.25). To ensure that all details of the proposed business are addressed, it is a great idea to write in the business plan comprehensively (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Not writing a business plan is the number one reason that could delay or prevent a business success (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Nevertheless, Moorman & Halloran (1993) specified, "Nine out of ten banks will probably require that the entrepreneur provide some form of information about the new business venture" (p.25). A comprehensive and detailed business plan shows the bank that the entrepreneur has invested considerable time and effort in planning what will be a successful business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

A typical business plan may include different required information; however, the following are some example sections that will vary from business to business: Concept History and Background, Goals and Objectives, Marketing Plan, Legal Requirements, Form of Ownership, Financial Plan, Organization, Management, and Staffing Plan, and finally, Special Considerations (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

The History and Background section describes the business concept, how it was developed, and what qualifications the potential entrepreneur has for the intended business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). It should include various topics such as the description of the product or service (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). This will cover how the product or service is different from or better than any other existing products or services (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). It also should describe in very specific terms the product or service that the business is going to offer (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Another topic it carries is the idea history, which summarizes when, how, and why the potential entrepreneur developed the idea (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). The last topic covers the summary of experience. This is where one should highlight practical exposure to the intended business. To greatly increase success at the bank, relevant volunteer work and leisure pursuits, as well as paid employment, may provide valuable experience that could be helpful in running the business (Moorman & Halloran, pp.27-29).

The following section, Goals and Objectives, should describe the entrepreneur’s desired results of owning the intended business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Moorman & Halloran (1993) claimed, "More then two-thirds require written goals and objectives for at least the first year" (p.29). For this reason, an entrepreneur must be insightful, realistic, and concise in order to achieve the goals and objectives.

The next section, The Marketing Plan, defines and quantifies the consumers, demand, competition, geographic market, and pricing policy. Getting to know customers is one of the most important parts of a successful plan. In order to have customers, entrepreneurs must make an effort to determine the needs of the market and identify groups of consumers that are most likely to buy from them (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). An additional topic of the marketing plan is Competition. As one would plan a business, he or she must learn as much as possible about the competition (Moorman & Halloran,1993). What are the prices? How well do the employees work? Following Competition, Geographic Market, describes the geographic area from which that business will draw its customers. (Moorman & Halloran,1993). The entrepreneur must project how far people are willing to travel to frequent the business, and from which areas they will be coming (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). The final topic of the marketing plan is the Pricing Policy, which determines how much one will set prices for the product or service (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). To help ensure profit goals and achieve sales, achieving a carefully considered pricing policy will help (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

Another section of the business plan is the Legal Requirements, which can be extensive and complicated (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Moorman & Halloran (1993) revealed that "94 percent of all banks doing business with entrepreneurs require that the legal aspects be addressed in the planning process" (p.31). Entrepreneurs should cover what patents, copyrights, agreements, contracts, or other legal arrangements will be needed to carry out day-to-day business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

The Form of Ownership is the next section, which is easily covered when the business is rendered alone (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). However, when the business involves two or more people, the form of ownership has ramifications for business management, division of profits, division of labor, liability, and many other issues (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

Not only is there a marketing plan, but also a Financial Plan, which is the following section. The Financial Plan covers a portion of the business plan which projects start-up costs, income, operating expenses, and cash flow (Moorman & Halloran, 1993).

Organization, Management, and Staffing Plan is another section which should cover an organization chart that should deal with the actual management of the business. Employee requirements include the appropriate number of employees for the intended business (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Resumes, personal financial statements, and references of the entrepreneur will require bank financing, in which each borrower must prepare a resume, a personal financial statement, and a list of references (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Doing so will see if the entrepreneur has the potential background of becoming successful.

The final component of the business plan is Special Considerations (Moorman. & Halloran, 1993). If the business will be manufacturing a product, the list of special considerations may be quite lengthy (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Moorman & Halloran (1993) stated that "if the entrepreneur’s business will consist exclusively of selling a service, however, the only special consideration may be facility" (Moorman & Halloran, 1993). Moorman and Halloran (1999) explained that "other special considerations may include training -- either for the entrepreneur or employees -- land and utility needs for the operation, and research and development of the proposed product or service" (p.32).

Designing a New Line of Clothing

Corporate trademarks have a dramatic impact when they are imprinted on a t-shirt (Walking Ads, 1999). When designing a new line of clothing, one could get t-shirts from a wholesaler or a variety of other companies such as Fruit of the Loom, Avalon, or Sara Lee ("Starting…" 1992). The most popular shirts are short sleeved, either 100 percent cotton or 50 percent cotton and 50 percent polyester ("Starting…" 1992). Dale Loeser, the owner of the Quiet Storm in Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, explained that "to get involved with learning about all the new and important manufacturers, one can attend trade shows" (personal communication, October 12, 1999). Tradeshows are always looking for new products and businesses. The only way a person can attend these trade shows is to become a bona fide dealer, or in other words, an entrepreneur (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). Once one becomes an entrepreneur and can attend tradeshows, it is important to use self-promotion. An entrepreneur may use direct mail to promote him or her self before the show to invite prospects to visit the new business’s booth (Morris, 1999). To provide a much better response rate, it is important to use promotional items within the mail (Morris, 1999). It is also very important to have a supporting theme with a central message to create a better recall in the mind of the new business’s prospects (Morris, 1999). Morris (1999) claimed that "one can do this, for example, by inviting prospects to get ‘hooked’ or get ready to ‘catch’ a great deal by using fishing products or fishing lures with the company name printed on them" (p.1). To create an instantly recognizable image when setting up a new business’s trade show, it is also important to have a theme, by using coordinating colors, logos, promotional products, and sales sheets (Morris, 1999).

It is also a good idea to have plenty of information available on the company and products. Without this on hand, a negative message would be sent towards the prospects if there were no available information (Morris, 1999). Having plenty of people at the booth of a new business creates curiosity for other prospects and makes the company look important, too (Morris, 1999). A wonderful way to get started in a tradeshow is to create interest in a new product using product samples, demos, and pamphlets (Morris, 1999). By sponsoring an event at a tradeshow, a new business can immediately receive exposure and learn about the competitors.

When designing a new line of clothing, the first step one may consider is to begin with the t-shirt design (Walking Ads, 1999). In order to have rightful ownership of a new successful line of t-shirts, the trademark may be included (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). To get a trademark on a t-shirt from a manufacturer such as Fruit of the Loom, it is important to specify that a blank shirt is needed (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). Hence, some manufacturers will not provide blank shirts without their logo (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). Doing so allows the person who is operating the business to have his or her company logo on the shirt instead of Fruit of the Loom (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). In order to mass-produce the trademarks on the blank t-shirts that were ordered, one would need to select the manufacturer to sew them on individually (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). Once the blank shirts have been processed through the manufacturer who has now sewn the trademarks on, the next step is to send them to another manufacturer (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). This manufacturer does the process of making the tags that will be dangling from the clothing along with a price (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). This process usually includes the logo of the designer label.

Dale Loeser (October 12, 1999) explained that "the cost of getting into the t-shirt business varies in many ways" (personal communication). The cost usually depends on a set up charge for quantity, color, fabric, size, and difficulty (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). There is also an additional cost for silkscreen printing. Many times the person who does silkscreen printing is also a wholesaler; this means he or she supplies shirts, too ("Starting…," 1992). Some names of suppliers in Delaware would be Action Island, New Wave, Red Sun, and ASAP (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999). The supplier known as Red Sun is also a screen printer (D. Loeser, personal communication, October 12, 1999).

One of the most important aspects of owning a designer label is the legal requirement. A trademark is either a word, phrase, symbol or design, or combination of words, phrases, symbols or designs, which identifies and distinguishes the source of the goods or services of one party from those of others (Dickinson, 1995). A trademark is different from a copyright or a patent; the copyright protects an original artistic or literary work, and a patent protects an invention (Dickinson, 1995). Dickenson (1999) suggested that "for more copyright information, one may call the Library of Congress at (202) 707-3000" (p.1).

In establishing trademark rights, trademarks arise from either actual use of the mark or the filing of a proper application to register a mark in the Patent and Trademark Office stating that the applicant has a bona fide intention to use the mark in commerce regulated by the U.S. Congress (Dickinson, 1995). Federal registration is not required to begin use of a mark nor establish rights in a mark (Dickinson, 1995). The right to register and the right to use are the two related but distinct types of rights in a mark (Dickinson, 1995). Generally, the first party who either uses a mark in commerce or files an application in the Patent and Trademark Office has the ultimate right to register that mark (Dickinson, 1995). In determining the right to register, The Patent and Trademark Office’s authority is limited (Dickinson, 1995).

The right to use a mark can be more complicated to determine; this is particularly true when two parties have begun use of the same or similar marks without knowledge of one another and neither has a federal registration (Dickinson, 1995). Only a court can render a decision about the right to use, such as issuing an injunction or awarding damages for infringement (Dickinson, 1995). It should be noted that a federal registration could provide significant advantages to a party involved in a court proceeding (Dickinson, 1995). The Patent and Trademark Office cannot provide advice concerning rights in a mark; however, only a private attorney can provide such advice (Dickinson, 1995). Trademark rights can last indefinitely if the owner continues to use the mark to identify its goods or services, unlike copyrights or patents (Dickinson, 1995).

McKay (1999) explained, "When protecting original works of authorship, Copyrights are also important" (p.1). Original works may include literary, musical, dramatic, pictorial, sculptural, audio-visual, or architectural works, motion pictures, and computer programs (McKay, 1999). The Copyright protects only the artistic expression or presentation, not the ideas, methods or systems embodied in the material (McKay, 1999). Copyrights also protect the work of an author against unauthorized reproduction, distribution, performance, preparation of derivative works, and display or transmission.

Registering with the Library of Congress is a smart idea in order to have full protection for copyrighted works (McKay, 1999). Copyrights are registered by completing the correct copyright application form and submitting the completed form together with the required filing fee and additional copies of the work, to the Library of Congress (McKay, 1999).

Method

In order to create her product, the researcher tackled many obstacles. The first task was to decide whether or not the chosen product was a good idea or whether or not the product would work. One of the questions she had to ask herself was, "How can one come up with a designer label without discriminating against teens?" She wrote down all of her ideas and finally decided that there was a way. By taking a business ownership class and working on a business plan, she learned all the necessary skills to have her very own designer label.

The next step was to find the research. The researcher then went on the Internet to find subjects on how to begin a t-shirt business. Everyday she would sign on the Internet and visit search engines that would most likely give her information. Once the Internet search was finished she had to set up an interview. After days of procrastination, she finally called a few stores to interview the owners on how to start a t-shirt business. Unfortunately, many of the storeowners were out of town or the time was inconvenient. After receiving the Quiet Storm’s telephone number, she called to set up an interview with the storeowner, Dale. After deciding on some important questions, she drove about an hour into Rehoboth Beach. With her papers and her folder, she was introduced to the owner of her favorite store. After an hour of questions, the researcher discovered the details to owning a designer label. She was very thankful for the information, because the Internet was not as useful.

The next step of gathering information for the researcher’s product was to design a survey (See Appendix B). The survey consisted of a few examples of advertisements which discriminated a specific group of teens. After the survey was created, the researcher copied 100 surveys. Around 30 of the surveys had to be discarded because the students did not follow directions. The next day she created 40 additional surveys so that each one was completed properly. As all the surveys were stacked high, the researcher tallied each section to determine the statistics of the survey questions. Unfortunately, that process did not work and was not efficient enough. Therefore, the researcher had to divide everything up into individual piles to figure out, for example, how many white females wore Nike. If the researcher were to tally just how many females there were, it would be hard to figure out how many liked Nike because males also chose Nike and the tallies were mixed, causing and unknown amount of how many males liked Nike and how many females liked Nike also. Thus, the evaluation had to be specific. After learning how to avoid discrimination, become and entrepreneur, and get a designer label started, she started working on her logo, t-shirt design, price tag, and trademark.

Results

The result of the interview was very helpful. The storeowner gave a few numbers to manufacturers, some helpful ideas, and also, ways The Quiet Storm got started in the t-shirt making business. As a result of the preparation in designing a clothing line that will avoid discrimination, the researcher will know what works well and what does not when it comes to the business world.

Although the interview was helpful, the surveys explained a very important part of the researcher’s product. She found out that exactly 65% of the students felt that advertisements did not discriminate against teenagers. Interestingly, 20% who said advertisements do not discriminate teenagers felt that advertisers should use attractive people, a specific gender, race, or area of interest. An astonishing 45% who also said advertisements do not discriminate against teens felt that advertisers do not need to use attractive people, a specific gender, race, or area of interest. A total of 35% of the students felt that advertisements do discriminate. However, 20% who said advertisements discriminate felt that advertisers should use attractive people, a specific gender, race, or area of interest. A final 15% who chose that advertisements do discriminate felt that advertisements should not use attractive people, a specific gender, race, or area of interest. This was very important because although teens were not offended by advertisements, a majority of the students felt that advertisements do not need to use a specific gender, race, or area of interest in order to sell.

When completing the product design for avoiding discrimination in advertising, the researcher will design her own label. The label will include a logo, trademark, and a tag involving advertisement. The shirt will be photography done by the researcher, which will then be silk-screened onto the shirt. There will also be a tag included on the shirt which will be photos accomplished by the researcher. Along with having a design on a shirt, a trademark must be determined. The chosen trademark will then be embroidered onto a care tag within.

Discussion

This research project has enhanced the researcher’s idea of what she wants to do in life. She feels that the Senior Project has helped her in every way possible. The researcher learned how to be responsible and to get tasks done on time. She also learned the importance of how much interviews can better someone’s knowledge. However surveys can become somewhat of a problem. She randomly collected 100 surveys which consisted of 31% white females, 40% white males, 9% black females, 9% black males, 6% mixed females, and 5% mixed males. Causing a total of 54% males and 46% females. Therefore, the survey statistics should had been projected towards 100% white females, 100% white males, 100% black females, 100% black males, 100% mixed females, and 100% mixed males. The researcher feels that if the survey was done within another school and more efficient, the results would be increasingly different.

The entire research of the product was very successful. The researcher now knows how to avoid discrimination, become an entrepreneur, and design her own label. The researcher suggests that anyone should try a product such as designing a label because it was fun, exciting, and very educational.

Above all, the senior project allows anyone to get out there, get involved, and ask questions to become more knowledgeable. Working on the Senior Project is very important in choosing a path in life. If students chose not to pursue what it is they researched, they have still become very acquainted with the career world. This is important because it gives a sense of direction in what it would be like if they were to go only one more step ahead. Since the beginning of the project, the researcher feels that all of her dreams will come true. Whether or not she becomes a famous designer, she knows she will be very successful in whatever it is she chooses.

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