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A Newbies guide to owning an Autococker..

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A Newbies guide to owning an Autococker. By: Matt Watts   Timing and Taking apart an autococker This thread is to help all of you autococker owners out. This thread will not tell you how an autococker works. I might make a thread like that later. Lets start out with timing. Remember this thread is only to help you i'm not saying "hey go mess up your cocker." If you have no clue what you are doing than don't even mess with the timing or attempt taking your autococker apart. Timing There are two major parts when timing. First there is the timing rod. There is a peice at the end of the timing rod called the 3-way adapting collar/coupler . Rotate it counter-clockwise to screw it on the timing rod. The more you screw it on the shorter the pull is to function the 3 way. What you want to do is make the timing rod open the 3 way right after the sear is dropped and the lug is let go. To make a full autocoker trigger pull you want the lug flush with the bottom of the body. To look at this you must take off the trigger. You will see at the bottom of the body where the trigger was there is a slit where the sear catches the lug. The lug is the little thing inside of the slit at the bottom of the body of the cocker. Stick an allen wrench in the hole in the sight rail to adjust the lug. Clockwise to lower the lug and counter clockwise to make it go into the body. If you have a trigger job the lug might need to be farther in the body. You don't need it flush witht he body but this is a good place to start at. You want to make the lug shoot right at the beggining of the trigger pull. To make the fireing shorter just turn in counter-clockwise. If the sear is not catching it then it is too short and turn it clockwise. Now that you have the lug where you want it, go back to the timing rod. Put the trigger back on the body. Gas up your cocker and see if it works properly. If not then adjust the timing rod. Unscrew it to make the 3 way activate quicker and screw it on for it to take longer to activate. I shortened my trigger pull by putting the lug farther in the body and the timing rod longer. My trigger pull is about half of a stock. But i also have a hinge so do not attempt to do that w/out an adjustable trigger. If you find that your cocker is haveing a good bit of blow back the 3 way is activating before the lug is let go, so adjust the timing rod. If you find that it isn't recocking right then go to the lug and screw it in. There is one more thing. The back block. Make sure that it is far away enough that you can put a peice of paper between the body and the back block, but close enough that you can't put a peice of carboard in between the body and the back block Now taking apart your cocker. Taking apart your cocker If you get a cocker you have to take it apart. I don't have any great post like eltwitcho but i do know how to take a cocker apart. It isn't hard at all. I'll e-mail you a pic that will help you on cleaning. It won't let me put it in the thread. Too big. Keep the bolt oiled. Take out the bolt and oil it and run a squegee through the breech. To clean the rest of the gun. Note Do not do anything to the bottom part of the cocker if you do not know how to time it. First learn to time it. READ ABOVE FOR TIMING!!! If you know how to time. First take off the trigger. Then take off the reg. Then take off the timing rod. Now take out the bolt and cocking rod. Now unscrew the velocity adjuster until it is out of the gun. Now put an allen wrench in the hole in the sight rail until you get into the lug. Look at the bottom of the hammer and you will see the in the little slit at the bottom of the gun. Unscrew the lug. Counter clockwise. Once its out far enough just let it slide out of the gun. Unscrew the front block by unscrewing the block screw. The only thing that should be left on the gun is the asa. The valve is still in but don't take it out w/out using a valve tool. Now that is all of the parts are out of the gun you can clean and oil them. Don't do anything to the pneumatics besides putting a drop of oil in the 3 way. To put the gun back together just retrace your steps. It wasn't that hard now was it? Remember when you put everything back together to retime your gun. Remember do not do this unless you know how to time your gun.   Cocker Owners guide   Lets face it, the WGP manual leaves a little to be desired.  It’s a very brief overview of how to do the basic stuff on a cocker.  This leaves a lot of questions to be asked by new users.  They either follow the trend of ignoring the instruction manual, or they just cant decipher it.  The following is an attempt to answer all of those early questions.   How do I adjust my velocity?        Remove the cocking rod from the rear of the marker, and insert a 3/16” allen key into the hole.  Turning clockwise will increase velocity, and turning counter clockwise will decrease velocity.  After you adjust the velocity, be sure to reinstall the cocking rod until it wont screw in any further.   Does my autococker come timed?             Yes, WGP sends all of their markers from the factory timed and ready to go.  Just add paint, and air, and go enjoy.  If you feel that you need to time your marker (and you probably don’t), check out the Timing Guide.   How do I clean my marker?        After a day of play, wipe down the outside.  Use a 50/50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water to help get off stuck paint.  Then, take the bolt out, and wipe it down as well.  Be sure to swab out the upper tube.  Put a couple drops of oil on the bolt o-rings (or a dab of dow33 grease).  Don’t forget to clean out the barrel with water, and dry it out.  That is all you need to do after a day of play.  After every four to five days of play, put four drops of oil into the ASA.  Take the barrel off, and fire this through the marker.  This will lubricate all the internals and keep everything running well.   I just bought an autococker, what kind of gas should I use?        Lots of people will tell you to use nitrogen, but that really isn’t needed.  Using co2 is perfect for Cockers, after all, that’s all there was to use when they were first released.  If you do use co2, try to use an anti siphon tube.  It will help with consistency, and keep liquid co2 out of your marker.  Nitrogen is the best choice for consistency, but it shouldn’t be purchased if it means you won’t be able to play because of an empty bank account.  People will say that co2 will ruin your marker, they are wrong.  It won’t ruin anything.  But it is very susceptible to weather.  As the weather gets colder, the co2 wont expand as much, and you may need to adjust your velocity to compensate.     What parts should I upgrade?           The stock Cockers these days are excellent.  There is no real reason to upgrade any of the parts, especially for the average rec baller.  Regardless of your choice, play with your new rig for a day or two, and learn what you don’t like about it, then change it.  The weakest links on the new stock Cockers are the barrel, and the pneumatic regulator.  The adjustable regulator will allow you to fine tune your marker a little better, and the barrel will help with accuracy.  Outside of that, nothing needs to be changed.  Just change what you want to suit your tastes in either performance or aesthetics.   Do I need an electronic hopper?        Autocockers generally don’t have the same amount of kick as most blowbacks, and so the balls don’t get jostled as much during the firing process.  This means that in order to keep up with fast strings of shots, you’ll need an electronic hopper to help keep up.  This way you wont have skipped shots or chopped balls.