Saqqara is a special spot because its monuments cover every period of ancient Egyptian history, from the 1st dynasty to the Ptolemaic and Persian periods. Start with the Step Pyramid in Zoser's mortuary complex. Enter it via the Hypostyle Hall, which has 40 pillars ribbed to resemble palm stems. In the Great South Court a rebuilt section of wall features a frieze of cobras, and in the center of the court are stone altars representing the thrones of Upper and Lower Egypt. The Serdab, a stone structure in front of the pyramid, contains a wooden box with two holes drilled into it. Look through them and you'll see Zoser himself: Inside is a life-size painted statue of the king (a copy of the original statue, which is in the Egyptian Antiquities Museum). The Serdab was designed so that the pharaoh's ka (spirit) could communicate with the outside world.
 

The Pyramid of Unas is also worth visiting because it has one of the best-preserved interiors of any pyramid. The alabaster walls are carved with hieroglyphs and with scenes of oxen and other animals, and the tombs inside are beautifully decorated.

Not far from Saqqara is Dahshur. We found it to be a good place to see how pyramids were constructed - and we didn't have to battle crowds while we were looking. There are two 4th-dynasty stone pyramids and three 12th-dynasty mud-brick pyramids. The most famous ones are the "red" and "bent" pyramids. The best way to visit Saqqara and Dahshur is with a long-distance taxi from Cairo. Allow at least four hours for the excursion. Saqqara is 22 mi/33 km south of Cairo, on the west bank of the Nile.

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