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Furby World

Cooking with Furbies

Peel and de-fur the furbies by impaling them on a spike and roasting them over a gas flame (this technique works well for most small creatures BTW). Remove and discard the beak. Cut around the head like a jack o' lantern lid to open the furbies. Remove and discard internal mechanism, but retain as much as possible of the flavorful crown. Stir-fry small chunks of boneless, skinless chicken with the onions, diced furby parts, and chillies, season with the ground cumin and some oregano. Mix in the cheese, which IMO provides plenty of salt. Add a little beer if the mixture is too dry. Shove it all firmly into the hollowed-out furbies. Lay them out in a baking pan, cover with foil, and bake at 375 until the furbies are tender and the cheese has fused. Serve with beer, black beans and rice, beer, guacamole, and beer.

How to skin a Furbie

Skinning A Furby Remove the batteries. Inside the battery compartment remove the FCC tag - since it won't be FCC approved after this. Remove the "Tiger" Tag from the furby's side. It is no longer associated with Tiger Electronics Feel underneath the fuzzy little tail, you'll feel a bump. That is the closure of a nylon cable tie. The cloth is sewn shut right there. Use the printer's knife or wire cutters to cut the thread holding the seem shut. Pull back the cloth. Use the wire cutters to cut the nylon cable tie - the white plastic strip thingy. Beware of flying plastic when you cut the cable tie.

Feel the upper edge of the Furby's ears - you'll feel a plastic rod that make the ears move. The cloth ears are sewn to these rods at the tips of the rods - about 2/3rd's the way up the ear. Cut those threads. Pull the cloth ears off the rods. The cloth ears will still be attached at the bottom edge.

Pull the fur over the head. Sort of like peeling off a sweater.

Depending on the rev of your furby you'll find some screws that hold the plastic face plate - on some furbys the faceplate is held with glue. The fur is also held in place around the eye brows and forehead by glue. On some rev's there are plastic hooks at the base of the ear cannal which keep the fur from blocking the ear rod slot.

Using the printers knife carefully cut or pry the fur loose.Lift the fur over the ear rods.Some rev of Furby have a hook on the top of the forehead which retains the top of the faceplate.The fur is now off

Remove the retaining bolts for the shell. Front,back,left side, right side and top of the head. Notice that one side (the furby's right side) has little holes for his ear.

When you pull off the shell - the back switch lever will fall out and there are short leads to a microphone in the right shell. Grab the wires at the base of the microphone and pull out the microphone ( the round silver metal can) it's held in place by the foam slip ring. There's also a foam washer between the mic tip and the inside of the plastic shell.

Slide the half shells up off the ear rods. To keep from losing the screws - reassemble the now empty shell. Your Furby is now nekkid.

How to skin a furby part 2

Step One: Skinning After removing the batteries, we set to work on skinning his furry little carcass. Working his skin off bottom up seemed the natural way. By carefully opening a few stitches that were visible beneath his tail, we exposed a cable tie which was pulled through the fabric around his base like a drawstring. Snipping the cable tie released his skin to be pulled up further.

Step Two: Removing The Ears The ears are attached to two thin plastic spears with arrowhead ends. Start by lowering the ears and folding the ear skin inside out at the base of the moving part (the other end of the fabric is sewn to the skin). Do this carefully -- you don't want to snap the delicate plastic ear bones. When the arrowhead is exposed, you will see a small loop of stitching tying the ear fabric to the bone. Snip it and pull the fabric ear over the plastic.

Step Three: More Skinning Pull the skin over the ears one at a time, being careful to avoid putting pressure on the delicate ear bones. Turn the the skin inside-out as you pull it off, leaving only the face attached to the body. With a small, thin, flat object (screwdriver, small scissors, etc.) snip through the glue which holds the face & skin to the body. The facial plastic is sewn directly to the skin and will come off all in one piece, leaving the eyes, mouth, and sensors still attached to the body. Put the skin away in a safe place, or wash it to remove the blood, second hand smoke odor, or dog spit. It also makes a nice hand puppet.

Step Four: Remove the Carapace Unscrew the Phillips head screws holding the two halves of the exoskeleton together. When pulling them apart, be careful of the ear bones and the microphone. Gently pull the microphone out from the inside of the half shell.

The Killer Furbie

The Furby Accident For a brief few months, Furbies were the must have can't do without mum everyone has got one oh muuum in-thing. They could talk to each other, learn, and do all sorts of weird things. But how did they work? That was the million dollar question. As Spen discovered, however they worked, they didn't work very well. He put his girlfriend's Furby up to the microphone, and asked listeners to put their Furbies up to their speakers. The result...carnage.

What really happened? Even though the papers loved the coded suicide pact theory, Spencer has his own theory about why the toys died as soon as they were put near a radio. "All a speaker is is a very powerful magnet. If you put a shoddy second-rate piece of electronics right up against it, it'll probably go pop."

Don't miss Toh-Loo-Ka.Yes, he may be dead, but don't worry about his little corpse -- he's a furbsicle!

After having Toh-Loo-Ka for about three days, and then leaving him "sleeping" for another day or two, his batteries ran out. After replacing the batteries, he no longer acted like the happy furby we'd be accustomed to being mildly annoyed by. He would get stuck with his eyes half open and emit a mild buzzing noise. Hitting reset wouldn't help, but sometimes helping move his eyes would unjam him, but he would quickly get stuck again.

When we first got him, he sat buzzing for about ten minutes, then finally woke up. (We initially attributed it to some sort of "boot up" or initialization procedure.) Periodically during his first day, he would freeze up, and remain unresponsive for about five or ten minutes. This behavior stopped after the first day and he was a healthy furby for a couple days.

When he started jamming again, we left him alone wondering if he would recover like he did on his first day. Unfortunately, we started smelling something electrical overheating after a few minutes of buzzing, so we disconnected his batteries.

Dozens of experiments with trying to unjam and reset and reboot him were unable to restore him to healthy operation. Toh-Loo-Ka was definitely a terminally ill Furby. So we did what any bereaved furby owner would do...we cut him up and took pictures.

We've also included step-by step instructions on how to perform your own Furby Autopsy (though doing so will most likely void its warranty), and details of what we found inside and how it all works (or doesn't).

Note: Please don't ask us where you can purchase a Furby of your own...we have no idea. Ours was bought for scientific purposes only, and frankly, we find him much more amusing dead than he was alive.

Analysis of the Furbies Cause Of Death

The buzzing sound and burning smell was coming from the motor. The central gearing system was jamming up in the eye / eyelid submechanism and the motor was being held locked. This generated heat, noise, and could potentially burn out the motor. (While a fire could be possible, I would guess that would be doubtful given the motor and battery sizes). The central gear system does have some sort of stroke sense switch, so I'm not sure why the software doesn't recognize that the motor is no longer actually moving the gears and kill the power (and maybe even speak out a message?)

Basically in the furbiescase, the level arm which drives his eyes and eyelids was getting stuck in its cam groove which prevented further rotation of the main drive shaft. This would only happen in one spot, and only when rotating in one direction. By using a small screwdriver, it is possible to unstick his lever arm and have the furbies continue, only to get stuck again next time his shaft rotates through that region of the eye cam. the furbies does not seem to be able to correct this problem himself and will let his motor burn out trying. Sometimes his eye arm lever would also flex out of position entirely and end up out of the cam-track.

I did notice that his gear arm which moves his ears seems to have something missing or broken on the bottom. This may have been a piece of plastic which would help nudge his eye lever arm along in the exact situation in which it's jamming. That piece appears to be completely missing (it didn't appear loose in the body cavity during the autopsy procedure) so its exact structure is unknown. Since he jams pretty consistently with the broken ear gear arm, I assume that this missing piece of plastic helped force the eye lever arm along. I will be attempting to reconstruct this function in an effort to bring the furbies back into our lives.

The }{@v1>< 3ff3ct

This is a picture b4 }{avix got a hold of the Furbies.I like to call this the }{avix Effect



It has came to our attention that not only is Hated withn0 passion a fat fuckin furbie, but she/he is also preg.! lmfao..We have photos below!

What we are askn of you is to sign the yahoo form in The Fight Room 8 to force Passion to put her/his furbies back on the shelves of Walmart(where the belong) when she gives birth to them. Due to the fact that this world can not stand anymore retarted furbies.....PLZ sign up today~!~

Trixie..Life is just a fantasy