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General Info about the Automag

The Automag (and all it's variances), in my opinion, is the best semi-auto on the market. It's very reliable, accurate, upgradable, incredibly fast, and don't forget, good looking.

Maintenance: The 'Mag requires little maintenance, just keep it clean and well oiled. The only 'heavy' maintenance I do on my 'Mags is I replace all my seals and springs before each tourney. This might be a little overkill, but at least I'll never have a seal problem when some guy is trying to bunker me. And considering what a tourney costs (with paint and all) what's the extra $20 for a full parts kit?

Upgrades: Though not as upgradable as the autococker (simple because it doesn't need 99% of the gun replaced) there are still enough upgrades to put you in debt for a long, long time. :-)

Rate Of Fire: The Automag is incredibly fast. Only now are there some guns that will outshoot the Automag but it is still capable of at least 10 balls/sec. That's faster than 95% of us can pull the trigger anyways.

Accuracy: I've owned eight Automags and four Autocockers, and I have found NO difference in accuracy between the two guns. The Automag has an 'arc' to it's firing trajectory while the Autococker has a flatter trajectory, which accounts for more range in some situations. But either gun with a good barrel and good paint will pick off your big toe at 150 feet. :-)

RT- Automag

First off, I have to thank M.R. Paintball for lending me this gun so that I could do this review.

The Setup: This RT is used and came non stock. It is a black body RT, the teflon coating was already starting to wear, so I'd be a little hesitant in buying a teflon coated body (although it looks super cool). It has a standard powerfeed (automag style), not the original high-rise powerfeed. The metal air line was replaced with Micro-lines. A bleed valve was installed in one of the back six air holes. This was a great little mod as it bleeds all the air left in the gun after you turn off your Nitro. The stock rubber grips were replaced with a set of black wood SmartParts grips. The trigger guard was cut and a two-finger trigger was added. The stock sight rail was replaced with an aftermarket sight rail, not sure but it looks like a DYE, which I amply removed. And last the stock barrel was replaced with a 12" PMI Perfect Barrel.

Problems: A couple of other notes about this gun in particular. It's been WELL broken in, and in my opinion not in perfect condition. But then I am completely insane about keeping my guns in perfect shape. I had to deal with several leaks. I didn't have a RT specific parts kit. Luckily, I was able to replace most of the bad o-rings with parts from my Automag. Also this gun needed a good cleaning and a major lube. After taking this gun apart and replacing soft parts several times I got it working like new.

Weight and Balance: The weight of the gun minus air system and paint is quite reasonable. I then added my 114cui Apocalypse System and a VL2000 Shredder to the RT. Wow! This makes the gun freaking heavy, given most of the weight is in the Nitro system. My Minimag with the Apocalypse was severely off balance, even with a drop forward. The RT balances much better than a Standard Mag. Also with the further vertical grip the spacing of the gun is much improved. This gun, although slightly larger and heavier than a 'Mag, moves much easier and just simply handles better.

The Trigger: The whole hype of the RT (Reactive Trigger) is of course the trigger. The theory behind the gun is that the trigger pull is at 4lbs and the trigger return is at 8lbs, thus forcing your finger back with the trigger. This is supposed to increase Rate Of Fire. Sorry I just didn't feel it. I played with just dry firing the gun for some time and I really could not feel this increased force back. There is a "sweet spot" on the trigger however and with a little work and some practice, there's a point where you can "bounce" the trigger so that *effectively* it becomes full auto. I don't suggest trying this as it will turn all your paint into soup.

ROF: O.K. The big deal about the RT is it's rate of fire, right? Everyone's heard that the gun is capable of 25 bps with a computer pulling the what about a human?

With my Tricked out Smartmag I can get 8.5 bps out of it. This is actually timed and not just some bogus number I came up with like so many other paintballers out there. So what about the RT? The fasted string I was about to do was 10 bps (that's without fanning the trigger). Not bad! Got a whole 1.5 bps faster (if I "fan" the trigger there is an increase of about 2 bps), which means at maximum ROF, I can shoot $36.00 a minute (not counting reload time). Ok, that's pretty damn sick. I think we should all rate ROF in dollar terms, that way maybe paint consumption would dwindle a little.

The Chrono: I'm not going to go into the procedure for chronoing the RT, you can check out Airgun's site for that with charts and all. I will say that it is more of a pain to chrono than a normal mag, especially if you have a chrono judge that has no idea how to chrono it properly.


-Looks better.

-Balances better

-Shoots a little faster

-6 air input ports

-Less common

-No upgrades needed (other than a new barrel)



-Much more expensive

-Must run on Nitro

-Can't run vertical bottle

-Less upgrades available

-Pain in the ass to chrono

Is the RT worth the extra money over a Mag...? That's a hard call. If you have the money or already have a Nitro system it's not as much of a bite. I'd probably go for it just because I like the looks more than a Mag. While I was writing this article, I enjoyed the RT enough to trade my Minimag for it. So even though MR Paintball lent me this gun I did effectively pay for it before this was posted. Nonetheless, I hope that The P-Ball Page will receive more support so that I can bring you more articles and reviews in the future.

RT-"2nd look": Ok, after playing a while with the RT, I have a few more thoughts on this gun. The PMI barrel is very accurate and quiet. Several times I was shooting at someone andhe didn't locate me until it was too late. I also tried a G-1 and it too was very accurate. I have to say that I think the RT is more accurate than the Automag. My reasoning for this is, the RT is heavier and thus more stable during shooting, as well as having better spacing. It sits into a better shooting position. The other reason the RT is more accurate is that you can shoot more paint with it, accuracy through volume.

As I stated before the RT is a pain to chrono, and although you might follow AGD's chrono procedure, you have to be careful there is no way for the gun to shoot over the 300 limit. Sometimes just single shooting will drive it over the limit, so if you're running an RT in a tourney be careful and make sure you know how to chrono your gun.

Eclipse Minimag

Eclipse Splash Kit: WOW! This is the nicest splash kit I've seen on a mag yet. It's the Smart Parts crazy black splash pattern. The kit included machined main body rail, Eclipse sight rail, Machined tourney cap, 2-finger trigger, machined powerfeed plug, and a machined vertical bottle adapter. The stupidest thing was that the vertical bottle adapter didn't come with a valve pin depressor (the little thing that pushes the pin valve on your co2 tank in, so that you can get air to the gun). All that was there was a big hole, so if you wanted to run vertical you HAD to have a on/off valve on the tank. I was not impressed with that at all. Otherwise, I was very impressed with the machining and the overall quality of the kit.

12" Splash Smart Parts Barrel: The Eclipse came with a matching Splashed Smart Parts Barrel. I love the way these barrels shoot, but they are expensive, completely useless after you break a ball, and complete gas hogs. Every gun owner should have one.

AIR Valve: There were no internal mods done to this gun, so essentially the valve is exactly the same as a stock Mag.

On/Off Valve: I'm not sure who made the on/off valve that came with the gun. I had never seen it before, but it's the most "open" valve I've ever seen. I had no problems with recharge or shut down. So I was happy with it. I'm going to try and find out who makes it and I'll keep you informed.

Smart Parts Wood grips: The Eclipse came with a pair of black SP wood grips. I really like these grips, they are comfortable, and large enough to fit my big hands. They also give your gun that finishing touch.

Venom Highline: This is a cool part, that being about the only bonus for it. It doesn't do anything better than a Micro line or standard line. It's a little bit of a pain getting used to disconnecting it. It's not as convenient as a quick disconnect. The only thing I liked about it was that it gave me a place to put my finger . The highline is just something DIFFERENT, not a performance upgrade. Kinda cool looking nonetheless.

Final Thoughts: This is a nice looking gun. Considering they come from England, I haven't seen any other around my local fields, so it's kinda nice having a Mag different from everyone elses. I do NOT recommend this gun to anyone looking for a good Mag at a "reasonable" cost. They are expensive. Too expensive for what you get. You can buy a normal mag and get a splash kit from Smart Parts or any other company, plus all the other little extras and still come out ahead of an Eclipse Mag. But if you have money to burn and want a Mag that's different (although not much) than everyone else at your field, take a look at one, if you can find one.


(Smartmag Regulator)
I've used 5 different kinds of 'Mags over the last 6 years and have more or less been VERY happy with them. So I was looking forward to trying out a new Smartmag. I previously had an Automag with a Magic Box conversion and was very impressed with the performance "change".
What I found with the magic box is with the increased air chamber size, you'd get a 'flatter' tragectory (closer to an autococker). This would increase range (somewhat). The main advantage of this is when you are shooting under the branch line or similar situation. The major problem with the increased air chamber is that it slows the bolt down, thus slowing down the fire rate. Not a lot, but just enough to notice it if you're used to a normal mag.
Now with the regular Smartmag, these effects are reduced There was little to no noticable difference in trajectory and no noticable blot speed difference. So, if you just have to have a different Automag, try a Smartmag, but I'd suggest trying a Magic Box instead, if you can live with the tradeoffs.
Whatever you do, don't run micro-lines with CO2 on a Smartmag. Micro-lines will coke off a normal mag and the Smartmag needs MORE air than a standard Automag, so stick to nice big airhoses. Also expect to lose around 100 shots per fill, depending on your tank, as the Smartmag is less efficent than a stock Mag.


12" PMI Barrel
My first thought on this barrel was, it's damn ugly. It looks like a stove pipe. With so many sharp looking barrels out there, who would want something this ugly...

I ran this barrel on my RT. I never experienced a ball break. It was also very accurate, and quiet. I have to say that I'm impressed. It is average for gas consumption. If you are looking for a good upgrade to your stock barrel, I'd say check out one of these. If you already have a good barrel you might want to look at a different one.

G-1 Stainless Automag Barrel
This is the most expensive barrel I've got. It's fairly heavy. The actual barrel section is stainless steel, while the muzzle break section is black anodized aluminum. I've run several types of paint through it so far, and I have to say this is one freaking awesome barrel! It shoots straight, accurate and long. It handles ball breaks ok. It's fully ported along the aluminum section, I found it's "slightly" better than my SmartParts barrel for breaks and cleans a little better. If I could only have one barrel this one would probably edge out my SmartParts. I suggest this barrel to anyone looking for a high quality aftermarket barrel for their Automag.

I've been a major SP barrel supporter since the beginning of spiral porting. Almost every gun of mine has had an SP barrel on it. They are super accurate, quiet, hard to clean and overpriced but I wouldn't think twice about buying another one. 12": The only differences from the 14": less gas efficient and the Splash Looks a whole lot better. I just love these barrels.
Man do I love these barrels. Although I've found that they tend to HIT softer than other barrels. I'm not sure why this is, I just tend to bounce more balls on people with this barrel. One thing I like about it's crappy efficiency is that for indoor use, alot of mag's don't function as well on lower velocities. Well, with this barrel your loss or efficiency will lower your velocity so you can still run your gun high enough to work well and be under the limit. Gotta love it...although losing anywhere from 100-150 shots out of your 53cui tank kinda sucks.

12" Nickel Plated DACC Barrel
This is a nice barrel, too bad you can't buy them anymore. If you can find one I suggest you buy it. I used to have a 9" DACC and loved it but I love this one even more. Accuracy was great, it was very quiet, cleaned well, and had good air effiency (well better than a 12" SP barrel anyways).

9" Nickel Plated TASO Power Barrel:This is a nice little barrel. It's quiet and accurate. If your're looking for a good inexpensive barrel, try this one.
"2ND LOOK": Wow, I've been using this barrel indoors a bit and it just kicks. I am very impressed. The paint at our local indoor is just crap, and this barrel was shooting it like marbilizer. If you need a second barrel or you're just not having any luck with your expensive custom barrel shooting bad paint try, this one out. You won't be dissappointed.

8.5" Nickel Plated TASO Eliminator Barrel
Accuracy: I picked up this barrel a little while ago and I didn't have very high expectations of it. Anyways, I took it out one day just for some target practice. I had some old paint and I brought the TASO, my DYE and SP Barrels. Well I broke paint in each barrel and wasn't hitting the broad side of a Star Destroyer with the DYE or SP. So I took out my TASO and it performed better than either of the highly over priced barrels. So I have to say that if you have bad paint or don't want to spend too much on an after market barrel, try out this barrel, it shoots great.
Now I had one MAJOR problem with the barrel. The groove for the Minimag (or left hand Automag) was milled out in the wrong spot. So it doesn't line up with the feed port, and just chops balls. So if someone at TASO reads this they can send me a new barrel. :) So before you buy check to make sure it lines up perfectly.

9" & 14" Armson Barrel
This is one LOUD barrel. If you like a nice quiet barrel to sneak around and snipe people, forget this one. This barrel barks like a big dog. It's great for intimidation and will make alot of people duck for cover when it's barking out 6 balls per second. :)
Accuracy: The Armson's internal rifling makes it a very accurate barrel. The problem is that you need as close to perfect paint as possible. If your paint is crap this barrel won't work worth a damn. But when you have good paint you can take a guy's big toe off at 100 feet. :)
Ball Breaks: This barrel is as bad or worse than a Smartparts Barrel for ball breaks. After that first ball break your accuracy is gone. A quick squeegee on field doesn't help too much as I find it's hard to clean the rifling with a quick squeegee. If you're using good paint though you shouldn't have a problem. Although I'd suggest keeping a spare barrel around for bad paint.
14": I traded in my 8" for a 14" and I'm glad I did. The noise level was greatly reduced, and efficency was increased. Accuracy and range, couldn't tell a difference.

10" DYE STAINLESS STEEL BARREL The first thing you notice is the WEIGHT. The problem with heavy barrels is they tend to drop the nose of the gun just a little. Performance: I found the gun to be adequate up to about medium range. However, I found that long range shots were difficult to make. The barrel is really loud, difficult to clean and does not handle ball breaks well. Being more expensive than a splashed SP barrel, I'd have to go with the SmartParts barrel.


VENOM Thunderbolt
It took me awhile to convince myself to shell out the cash for this expensive bolt. Am I glad I did! Wow! It's less than half the weight of the stock bolt, and it rocks. The claim was that it increased your rate of fire. Well it does. You can feel the difference as soon as you put the bolt in. I increased my rate of fire by over 1 ball a second. It doesn't sound like much but it makes a big difference when you're throwing paint at a guy trying to bunker you. It also makes the gun a lot quieter. Matched with a quiet barrel you can barely hear the gun. It reduces the vibration of the gun as there is less weight getting slammed around. This is a definite upgrade to anyone who wants to get the most out of their Automag.
"2ND LOOK": After using this bolt for a little while I have some concerns. The metal wallon which the spring rides is fairly thin. I've noticed a great deal of wear. This wear hasn't hurt the preformance any, but I'm concerned that long term life may be not so "long term"...although the speed increase is just awesome. I'll let you know if I ever wear it out.

This is the stainless steel venturi bolt with the foamie/neoprene in the middle of it. The only thing that I've found with this bolt is an increase in paint breakage. If you've got the stock "hardnose" bolt from airgun, stick with it; if not, get one, but stay away from the venturi kind.

AGD Fommiless
If I wasn't running a Venom thunderbolt, this would be the only bolt I'd have. I've had absolutly no problems with and have never experianced the increase in ball breaks (compared to the fommie bolt) that some people claim.

AGD Fommie
Argg...I hated this bolt. I was so happy when I got a fommiless, no more lost fommies. I couldn't find anything that would hold those damn things on. Some people claim that this bolt breaks less paint than the hardnose fommiless bolt but I've never seen it. And if you lose that little fommie you will break paint like crazy


Automag Benchmark Double finger trigger frame with guard: The Automag just begs for a double trigger. You can considerably increase your rate of fire on a Mag with a two finger trigger. One problem has been that you have to cut most grip frames to accommodate the larger trigger. This tends to make the gun more supesptible to accidental firing. Also, it does nothing for the looks of the marker. The safety issue has become very important and more and more fields and tourneys are requiring trigger guards on all guns.

So now most aftermarket grip frames have trigger guards built for double triggers. The nice things about the Benchmark frames, are included trigger guard, included metal trigger, and wrap around grips. There are a couple of down sides though. The trigger guard is just as ugly as not having one. The trigger guard restricts the number of after market grips you can use, that is, without heavy modification. I've played with double trigger for a few years now, and I find the metal one on the benchmark to be uncomfortable and a little big. It also has mildly sharp edges and I've caught my fingers several times. The benchmark grip frames are very solid grip frames, and this one is no exception. If you're looking for a complete .45 frame with a trigger guard this is probably your best bet for the price. But if I'm in the market for another .45 double frame I'll be looking at some other manufactures.

PROTEAM Benchmark .45 Frame with 2-finger trigger
I picked this up before the Canadian Speed Ball champs and have mixed feelings. The trigger pull is very, very quick but is a little "mushy" compared to the old grip frame. Also there is a sweet spot on it that will give you big trouble with chopping paint/leaking. I just have to spend a little more time adjusting it and I think it will be unbelievable. I like the new shooting poisition that the .45 gives you but I found that field strip screw dug into my hand more because of this position. I'd suggest getting a pair of gloves that has padding specifically for the Automag's field strip screw and it won't give you any trouble.
"2nd Look": I set up the Trigger Safety as a trigger stop and adjusted the trigger rod. My Mag now rocks with this frame and I no longer have troubles with paint breakage or leaking. The down side to this is you no longer have a safety, so be careful and always use your barrel plug.

I was a little skeptical about this one. I've had a mag or two that have just refused to work with these; and I've had a couple where there's been an improvement in the trigger pull. For $15, try it and if it doesn't work in your gun, give it to a buddy.

I do the trigger jobs on all of my guns and all of my teammates guns. So of course I think it's an improvement!! If you get a trigger job, I suggest you let someone who REALLY knows what they're doing do it. I've seen a few botched jobs, and they aren't pretty.

This was a mod that took me awhile to try. It's expensive and if you don't like it, you've already cut up your trigger guard..... and it makes your gun look really goofy! Anyways, the first thing that I noticed was how comfortable it is, and how much easier and softer it makes the trigger pull. The second thing was how much quicker my loader emptied :)
The two finger trigger definately made a speed improvement. The down side to it (other than making your gun look goofy) was the loss of accuracy. I found that using both fingers would throw the gun off. Not much mind you, but enough to be noticed. I found it more difficult to make those one shot, one elimination kind of shots. But then, who uses a mag for single shot accuracy? :-)

Smart Parts Wood grips:
I really like these grips, they are comfortable, and large enough to fit my big hands. They also give your gun that finishing touch.


If you own a semi and not an agitator, you're wasting your time. It'll be the most productive upgrade you can buy!! I find the VL2000 a little slow for my Automag when I'm really hammering out the paint. I'd suggest a Shredder or Revolution, although if you're on a budget or your trigger finger is 6 balls a sec or slower this loader should do you fine.

VL2000 Shredder
I converted my VL2000 to a shredder because it was having a hard time keeping up with my trigger finger. It's a bit faster and eats batteries faster...I'm not crazy about it. I really hate having to unscrew the battery cup to install/remove the batteries.

I like this loader for tourneys where I'll be throwing alot of paint and can't take the time to reload, such as speedball or indoors. It's great. You can just shoot and shoot. It's also fast enough that I can go hard on the trigger without worry of missfeeding and a ball break. The one major drawback to this loader is size! It's a monster. Expect a lot of loader hits...the bonus to the size is all the advertising space for your sponsors.


DYE Apocalypse Drop Forward: I never liked the stock rail that comes with the Apocalypse nitro systems. It's too short and no matter what you do with it, it's at a bad angel. There are a number of Aftermarket cradles for the Apocalypse, but most either just place the tank in a different (but still awkward position) or are damn ugly. Then there is the DYE drop forward a simple piece of machined aluminum, a very attractive piece of machined aluminum. If hes a slight negative angel to it. I though this was a little weird but it works nice with the angel on the bottom of most grip frames. The combined angel is very comfortable and the tank "places" easy. It also drops the tank about 1.5" and forward about 2". This isn't as extreme as some other cradles but is very comfortable. The downside to this cradle is the same downside to every DYE product, they are over priced. But DYE is fashionable and you pay for "trick". With all considered it looks good and places the tank in a comfortable shooting position. I'd buy another one.


114cui Air America Apocalypse System
The first thing I have to say about this is "it's HUGE". And weighs in at a ton. My god! Is my gun ever heavy now! The 114cui only comes in 3000psi, so I see little point in picking this system over a 114cui Raptor. The Raptor is half the cost and weighs in about about half the weight (or at least seems to). The only extra bonuses are a on/off valve and a second output pressure gauge on the Apocalypse. I don't see this as worth the extra $200 or so dollars for this system. The reason I got it was I made a trade and they only had the Apocalypse. I wanted a 114cui because I was having terrible effciency problems with my SmartMag on the 68cui size bottle. Other than the size and weight, the Apocalypse was a great system. No problems at all.

68Cui Air America Raptor System
If you run an Automag get a Nitro system. If you can scrap up the money for an Automag save up and buy a Nitro set. You'll be VERY happy with one and it's the second best performance accessory you can get (next to an agitator). Other than the performance bonuses, I like the fact that I can just 'top off' my tank before each game allowing me to have a full tank all the time, as well as knowing exactly how much air I have.

Velocity: Velocity was very constant. I'd say within +/- 3 fps. Now this DOESN'T mean that at the chrony my velocity was constant. When measuring the velocity of a paintball leaving the barrel (chronographing) there are MANY variables in differences in velocity, spikes/erratic, etc. This is mainly from the paint. If you had PERFECT paint you could set the gun at 295 and never have to adjust the velocity and never get a hot gun. The problem is that NO paint is perfect. The worse the paint, the more erratic the velocity. If the paint is 'out of round' or has dimples or is of different weights, etc. you'll get different velocities with each shot. That's why you should never mix different batches of paint.
"2ND LOOK": Ok, with my SmartMag and a 12" Smartparts barrel I wasn't getting more than 600 good shoots out of my tank. It wasn't so bad, beacuse I rarely carry more than 500 rounds with me on the field at one time, but if you shoot a lot of paint, go with the 114cui, it's bigger and bulkier but at least you will have the air shoot all that paint your carrying.

TASO Air Wedge Block
After running my 114cui Apocalypse on-gun I needed something to balance my Mag better. I picked up the TASO Wedge, being the only decent choice my local store had in stock. It moves the bottle about 1 1/4" forward and adds a slight angle. I attached my Apocalypse rail, then my bottle...and I couldn't tighten the set screw that holds the Rail to the Reg! So either you have to cut down your allen key or get a really short allen screw so that you can tighten everything up. What a pain in the butt!

Once I finally figured out a way of tightening everything: I found my Mag balances 'better' now, not perfect but better, and I find the new angle very comfortable. I wouldn't get another one for an Apocalypse system but if you're running a Raptor or other config I think it's a nice drop forward piece. And although it's cheaper than most other drop forwards, I still think it's over priced for a small piece of aluminum.

Fred Schultz Nitro Cradle:
I traded in my APP cradle for this one and I'm very happy. This cradle has a variety or mounting positions for the bottle, so you place the gauge where you can actually read it. Also it's long enough so that I can use the bottle as a stock without mounting it under a longer stock. It's a good cradle, a little more money than the APP but worth it.

APP Cradle:
When I bought my Nitro set the only cradle available was an APP cradle and I have to say I don't like it. It places the regulator and the bottle right under your grip frame, which shortens the overall length of the gun. If you have short arms this might be perfect for you, but I've got monkey arms and this made the gun way too short. Second it doesn't offset the bottle which means you have to wrap your arm around the bottle and grip the handle of your gun at a slight angle. Again it's personally uncomfortable. My last complaint about the cradle is it places the pressure gauge under the tank. So you have to turn your gun upside down to read the gauge when you fill your bottle. Very impractical. The only feature about this cradle that I found acceptable was the price. It's the cheapest cradle out there at about $40.00 Canadian (I think).

Reactor Valve:
What the hell is this piece of.....?? I tried it in two different Automags. First off it's a pain to get in the regulator and have it stay while you insert the reg into the main body. Second I couldn't get either mag to work with it. I tried it every which way to see if I was doing something wrong but it just wouldn't work. If you want a new valve get a free flow or similar facsimile, DO NOT WASTE your money on this down-grade.
"2nd LOOK": I sold this part to a guy out in Hawii and he just loves it, no problems. So that shows how finicky Mag's can be for tolerances and just not liking something.

This is the small brass piece in the on/off valve. I didn't notice any difference between this and the stock valve. Oh well, it's still in the gun.

MICROLINES:These things are great. They are small and out of the way. They are a little intimidating though and without trying them, they look too small and fragile to use but I haven't had any problems or leaks. All my guns have a set now.
"2ND LOOK": I still love these little things but I've found one major flaw with them. Becuase of their size they can bottleneck your airflow. I don't suggest using them on any HIGH Volume Gun, such as a SmartMag, Low Pressure Cocker, etc. I still use them on my Phantoms and they are great.

A good accessory if you're running CO2 (not needed if you're running nitro on a mag). The main thing to remember with a unireg, is to replace the regulator seat (just like a 'mag). Also, it WON'T stop liquid from getting into your gun. It will help prevent liquid freeze-ups, but it won't eliminate them.

Argg..... I always thought they were ugly ( looks like a giant phone cord). The only pro I've found in using it was that it stayed out of the way and didn't get tangled on anything. Other than that, all I've had are problems. I found that with it, I froze up more than with a straight line. I also found that the gun couldn't get enough air during rapid fire shots. All the info I need is that I had better luck with a straight line or the bottle mounted on the gun.

I suggest for the best possible accuracy, always have some kind of shoulder brace (stock or bottle). If you run remote, they're great.

Bob Long Stock:
I had a Bob Long Stock a long time ago on my Autococker and really liked the feel of it. The reason I put one on my Automag was to offset all the negatives of the APP cradle. With the Bob Long stock I found running a Nitro setup a lot more comfortable. It placed the bottle lower and forward, so that my arm just rested on the bottle and wasn't offset by it. Second it balanced the gun better, and was even long enough for my monkey arms. I found shouldering the gun quick and easy.On the negative side, it adds alot of weight to the gun and my 'Mag won't fit in my gun bag anymore. :-)

Venom Highline:
This is a cool part. That being about the only bonus for it. It doesn't do anything better than a Micro line or standard line. It's a little bit of a pain getting used to disconnecting it. It's not as convenient as a quick disconnect. The only thing I liked about it was that it gave me a place on which to put my finger. The highline is just something DIFFERENT, not a performance upgrade. Kinda cool looking nonetheless.
"2ND LOOK": I've found one problem with mine. I tried mounting it on a couple of other guns and the threads don't match up so it leaks. Before you buy one, make sure the threads line up with your reg so that you don't have any problems


ECLIPSE Splash Kit
WOW. This is the nicest splash kit I've seen on a mag yet. It's the Smart Parts crazy black splash pattern. The kit included machined main body rail, Eclipse sight rail, Machined tourney cap, 2-finger trigger, machined powerfeed plug, and a machined vertical bottle adapter. The stupidest thing was the vertical bottle adapter didn't come with a valve pin depressor (the little thing that pushes the pin valve on your co2 tank in so that you can get air to the gun). All that was there was a big hole, so if you wanted to run vertical you HAD to have a on/off valve on the tank. I was not impressed with that at all. Otherwise, I was very impressed with the machining and the overall quality of the kit.

HomeSMARTPARTS Splash Kit There's no performance increase with this, but it sure makes the gun look cool!!! I did have a small problem installing the trigger pivot and sear, had to do a little "persuading" to get it to fit. Other than that the fit and finish of the kit is just incredible.