This text was taken from N.E.R.D.'s care sheet page. In italics will be my additional commentary based on my very limited experience with Brazilian Rainbow Boas.
CHARACTERISTICS: Brilliantly colored and it's rainbow iridescence make this one of the most desirable exotic constrictors available. Hardy as long as humidity requirements are met, tolerant of cooler ambient temperatures than many other boids. Semiarboreal (climbs) and often nocturnal (active at night). Young animals tend to be nervous but in captivity they generally calm and make reasonable pets. Newborn animals may appear dull or faded and typically begin to display their adult colors as they approach lengths of 30 inches. Related to the anaconda.
I found the few BRB's I've handled to be very well tempered and to actually enjoy being handled.
REQUIREMENTS: Tropical ambient temperatures of 75 - 85. A 80% relative humidity level must be provided to ensure the animal's health. This can be achieved by the presence of a large water dish located over a heating pad (under the cage), misting cage with water, and providing a hiding container with moist bedding. Do not expose to ambient temperatures over 90F. Enclosure at least 3/4 as long as the animal's body with a width at least a third of the animal's length. Buy captive born whenever possible. Ensure the animal is feeding.
This part is very important as they are prone to respiratory infections if humidity levels are too low
DIET: Mice, rats, chicks, and guinea pigs. In the wild the diet consist of rodents, birds and possibly some forms of aquatic life and lizards.
SIZE AND LIFE SPAN: May exceed lengths of 6', with an average size of 4 - 5 feet. Quick growing and typically aggressive feeders. Ages of 25+ years in captivity.
DIFFICULTY RATING: Moderate, this is not a beginner's snake, experience with boas or pythons is recommended. If this snake is not provided with adequate humidity and dries out, severe health problems may occur.
BREEDING: Sexual maturity reached in the first 2.5 - 4 years. Refer to Boa Breeding care card if sex of an animal is unknown. Males may breed at 4' and females 4.5'+. Use of multiple males in a breeding situation may prove beneficial to breeding success. Breeding season in captivity: October - April; peak breeding activity generally occurs in the fall and winter. Animals must have excellent weight before breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by night time temperature drops down to 68 - 72F and daytime temperatures in the low 80's. Reduction of light cycle from 12 - 14 hours to 8 hours and misting the animals with warm water prove beneficial. Gestation 115 - 135 days. Gives birth to live young, litters may vary from 10 - 30+ babies. Frequently bred in captivity
MUTATIONS: Nine subspecies of rainbow boa occur throughout South America, many do not posses the brilliance of this subspecies. Rainbow boas from Peru and Bolivia known as Epicrates cenchria gaigei may look identical to the Brazilian rainbow. There was an albino Brazilian rainbow boa in captivity, it was imported in poor health and died.
STATUS IN THE WILD: As our rainforest are cleared for agriculture, ranching and development this snake loses much of it's habitat. Not a common occurring animal in it's range.
DISTRIBUTION: Southern Venezuela, Surinam, Guyana into the Amazon Basin. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SETUP
Caging: Includes Neodesha reptile cages, plastic sweater boxes, aquariums and custom built vivariums. Cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, ventilated, and hold heat to ensure proper temperatures. Avoid unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages; these surfaces are difficult to clean and disinfect. Refer to the Snake Caging care card. Heating: Variable setting under cage heating pads (used for people, never rest weight of cage on pad), thermostatically controlled lights and/or under cage heat strips, and hot rocks. Don't use a small hot rock for an animal that is proportionately larger; burns often result if the animal is forced to rest on this type of heat source. A heat source should warm 1/3 to 1/2 of the cage with a basking floor temperature of 88 - 92F. Use a thermometer! The unheated area should never drop below 75F. It may be necessary when using aquariums to cover part of the lid with plastic to maintain ideal temperatures. It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area (provides a heat gradient) so that the snake can thermoregulate. Caution should be used when using lamps, blood pythons do not tolerate being dried out! It is better to heat with an under cage heater.
Always provide clean water, disinfect bowl weekly. A hide box (essential) or shelter in the heated end of the cage provides security. A hide box may also be provided in the cooler area; always locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security( hide box) and heat. Disinfect (bleach & rinse) branches and rocks since they may harbor ecto parasites.
Humidity: a tupperware style hide box with an entrance hole and filled with moist spagnum moss (or equivalent) provides the needed humidity and an attractive retreat.
Lighting: 12 hours on, 12 hours off, incandescent or fluorescent. Never leave visible lights on continuously, this causes stress. Furnishing: A water dish must be large enough to allow the animal to soak , located near the heat source.
Substrates: Newspaper, paper towels, paper bags, or artificial grass are safe and inexpensive. Aspen bedding and cypress mulch also may be used, but it is advisable to feed on a different surface, since the bedding could lodge in the snake's mouth. Gravel, sand, mulch and shaving may cause health problems such as intestinal blockage, skin lesions and "mouth rot." Cedar is deadly to reptiles!
Cleaning: A solution of water, detergent and 5% household bleach is safe and disinfects, rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water.
FEEDING: A baby rainbow should begin feeding on fuzzy mice 10 days old). A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a locking plastic shoe box style container (with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour, then introducing a food item. At 2', the snake is large enough for pinkie rats and jumper mice. At 3', it is capable of consuming adult mice and young rats. Frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get, feed less often to slow the growth rate. Feed at least once every 10 days, when the snake begins feeding on large meals such as rats feeding can occur less frequently. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed warmed rodents at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by a rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animal's growth rate and condition and may occur every 3 - 6 weeks. May refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Increase the humidity as a rainbow approaches a shed, this helps to avoid dry shed. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; it is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake's cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet! Provide food and water for any rodent left in the snake's cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. As the snake grows it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents and move it to a feeding container prior to food offering. If moved to a feeding container for all feedings it may become conditioned not to expect food while in its' cage. This may reduce the possibility of being mistaken as a food item by an over zealous feeder. Best method is to place dead rodent in container and let snake discover it, encourages gentle food acquisition. Maintain accurate feeding and health records.
Reluctant Feeders: May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts and appears to be wasting, consult a veterinarian or experienced herper.
HANDLING: Always support a snake's body; avoid fast movements. Do not treat the snake as a toy. Avoid techniques which restricts a snake's movement. Avoid public situations which draw attention to the animal since this is stressful to the animal and possibly your audience. Never wrap a snake around your neck! A nervous snake may occasionally bite; if biting occurs and is a problem, wear gloves. The handler must convince the snake that it is safe, trust must be learned. Snakes bite for two reasons: they have mistaken you as food or they are in fear for their safety. Snakes do not bite because they are mean.
PROBLEMS:
1) Respiratory infections manifest themselves as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites. To treat, increase the humidity and raise the temperature into the upper 80's, reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian.
2) Mouth rot manifest itself as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from the conditions of (1) and rubbing on rough surfaces, rodent bites and materials lodged in mouth. To treat, increase temperature to 90F, clean infected area with a solution of 1.5% hydrogen peroxide (dilute 50:50), remove loose material and swab with betadine 2X daily. If condition persist, medical attention is needed.
3) Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel.
4) Thermal burns and "Belly Rot" are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions.
5) Mites are small blood sucking ectoparasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black dots on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin, etc.).
6) Ticks are blood sucking ectoparasites that are often found on wild caught animals. Removal of ticks is achieved by a clockwise twisting of the parasite or suffocating the tick with vaseline until it dies in a few days and then removing.
7) Internal parasites can be a problem, especially with imported animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, and depression are all possible signs of a parasitic infestation. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites. Refer to the Snake Disorder care card.
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