Huế

In 1802 Nguyễn Ánh proclaimed himself king and moved the capital of Viet Nam from Thăng Long (Hà Nội) to Phú Xuân, which is now Huế. Perhaps the move was strategic, for by then Viet Nam had expanded further south; Hue became the center of the country. Perhaps it was for convenience and familiarity, because the mountainous central region had been the power base of the Nguyễn lords. Whatever the reason, in choosing Hue Nguyễn Ánh chose a city of serene natural beauty. The reign of the Nguyễn dynasty transformed Hue into the radiant center of Viet Nam.

The days of the monarchy are long gone, however. For now, Hue is poorer than Ha Noi and Ho Chi Minh City. The cyclo driver, who took me from the train station to my hotel, told me of his desire to move to HCM City, where he might make a better living to support his family. Life in the central region of Viet Nam can be very hard. Typhoon and flooding would strike almost yearly, destroying rice fields, roads, houses. Travelers have remarked on the gentleness of the citizens of Hue, but to survive here these gentle people must also be remarkably strong and resilient. In Hue, a grand, beautiful post office had been built a few years ago, but a large flood struck, covering the city with water to the rooftop of low-lying houses. In a simple, passing manner, my cyclo driver described the damage this latest flood caused. The sites he pointed out are once again active areas of commerce. The people of Hue now make do with their old post office, until their new one can be repaired.

Hue emanated a quiet charm. Of the cities I visited on this trip, I love Hue the most.

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