Turbulence of backlash wave causing the undertow
At one point, I looked up to see my mother running down the beach and calling something to me but the sound of the surf drowned out her words. Then, she stopped and pointed out to sea and I could hear her say: "Go!" Just ahead of her at the water's edge a group of people was pulling an old lady out of the water, and another group was assisting a pregnant woman. Both of them had obviously been caught in a wave. I started to run toward the older lady, thinking she might need artificial respiration, but now, closer to my mother, I heard her call:
"Go out go out - drowning."
Someone behind an incoming wall of water needed help. Without thinking, I dived into the oncoming 16-foot wall of water to come up on the ocean side of the wave. There, in front of me, about twenty feet away, was a hand sticking up out of the water, then up bobbed a gray head, then down went the head and the hand came up again. As I swam through the water, I realized I was very tired and in no condition to fight a non-swimmer. All I could do was to affirm Gods presence, "I know you're with me God, I'm going to need your help." And with that, I gave it all the energy I had left to swim the few feet between us. With that burst of speed, I was there to grab the body as it surfaced again.
As he came up again, I caught him in the "cross-shoulder" hold with my right arm. His face was blue-gray. I could hear his breathing and knew he had some water in his lungs, but he wasn't drowned, he was in a state of shock.
I swam seaward with him to get away from the turbulence of the waves and tried to size up the situation. My man was well over 65 years he gave no resistance, but neither did he make any effort to help himself. He couldn't be taken into shore because if a wave broke with us, we would both be dashed against the bottom sand beneath the wave. A 12 to 16-foot drop for an old man who is unconscious would be deadly. As we drifted in, I could see that if I didn't make an attempt to get on the seaside of this next oncoming wave we would be dashed onto the sand.
While we were drifting dangerously close to shore, some thoughtful person on the beach hurled an inner tube at us. I pulled my charge over to the tube. At first, the tube was more of a hindrance than help for with every wave the tube would pull us closer to the breaking crest of a wave. Once I looked straight down about 16 feet into nothing but sand. After that view, it didn't matter whether or not I was tired. I just knew I had to get back away from those breaking waves with my charge.
Later I was glad I had the tube for it helped me rest my legs when they got too tired. I tried to place the old man's hand on the tube so that he could help support the weight of his body, but his hand kept slipping off he didn't seem to have the sense of urgency to hang on to something. I was waiting for that lull in the waves which I knew was characteristic of these high tides.
I felt the rise and fall of the water around me. I started counting the waves. At about the fifth wave, I planned to head for shore. I was hoping to ride in on the tenth crest and get close enough to catch the eleventh, which was always characteristically smaller.
The fifth wave arrived and I started kicking as hard as I could. I could feel the sixth swell, raising my body high enough so I could see the beach. The seventh, eight, ninth, and I was not where I had to be. Again I acknowledged God's presence by saying: "It's just you and me, God." I started to kick and swim like I never had before. I knew I had to catch that eleventh wave just right, kicking fast enough for the force necessary to carry our two bodies forward. I could sense a losing battle. We were in the turbulence and we weren't going anywhere. The little wave I'd hoped to ride was breaking on the beach and starting to come back at us while a mountain of water was gathering in a fury behind us. I put my head on the tube and said, "I'm in your hands, God."
Out of nowhere a rope landed on my head I reached with my left arm to grab it. Before I had a good grip, the spectators on the beach were pulling us to shore. My cramping right arm was around the elderly man. My left hand was burning from the rope sliding through my hand but to let go of that rope would have been a worse fate than rope burns.
On the beach, many people grabbed the man from my arms and carried him up the beach. I knew he'd be taken care of. He didn't need artificial respiration. Someone, whom I later learned was a fireman, checked my man and said he was in a state of shock and covered him with a blanket.
It was a wonderful relief to feel the beloved, hard sand under my feet. I was so thankful and happy that I brought my man in safely and yet, in reflection, I thought, today, there were mighty odds against me. Too late, out in the water, I realized how tired I was and knew I would need strength from God. I remember thinking of the Prayer of Protection that I keep in my wallet and read often:
The light of God surrounds me;
The love of God enfolds me;
The power of God protects me;
The presence of God watches over me;
Wherever I am God is!
I believe at those crucial moments, that affirming God's presence, knowing "Wherever I am God is!" gave me the strength to save both our lives. "Thank you God for always being there for me!"