April 16, 2001
I pull the trigger and nothing happens.
2. Verify that you have a full tank of air. And if you are using an on/off valve, double check that it is open.
3. If you are running the gun remote, make sure that the check valve is in the open state. Trust me, this may sound stupid, but once I forgot even this simple task.
4. Lower the clip and then hit the reset switch located on the right side of the gun.
5. Check the clip, there might be some bent pins. Carefully bend
them back so that they stick out perpendicular to the chain they are welded
2. Make sure you are using fresh paint. RP Scherers are pretty good and they hold up pretty well if you store them correctly. Just remember to use some form of desiccant.
3. Check the chain drive in the clip. Just remember that the little pins should not stick up at the top when you have turned the indexer switch in a detent position. The pins should fall on either side of the path of travel at the top of the clip.
You could also try changing the spring in the hammer. Go to your local pball store and get a Nelson spring kit. Start off with the yellow spring and see if that helps with your velocity problems. If that doesn't do the trick, try a stiffer spring. The logic is that if there is a stronger spring that hits the main valve, it will let more gas out and thus will propel the balls much faster. Just a little stiffer spring can just do the trick.
2. Try not to connect a tank directly to the rear ASA, the angle of the connection isnít that pronounced and sometimes, you end up flooding the regulator with liquid CO2. When this happens, the gun will start sputtering a bit and shoot out clouds of CO2 out the rear. When this happens, point the gun up and cycle a few rounds. After a few seconds, the regulator should warm up enough so that it stops sputtering.
3. There are several remedies that you can try to alleviate the
dreaded liquid problem. You can run the gun with a remote tank, use an
expansion chamber, run the gun in a bottom line position, and/or use a
regulator too. I have found some luck with my rig. I am currently running
the gun bottomline style with an anti-syphon tank connected directly to
the bottomline mounted Palmerís Stabilizer Regulator. I have already shot
a full 20 oz. tank and have not been able to freeze the regulator on the
2. Sometimes when it starts icing up badly, my cycling stops.
I think that happens on my gun because I have this funny feeling that when
it gets pretty cold, it makes the oil within the vital parts "congeal"
or at least get a bit more viscous.
2. "I just worked on mine last night to make sure it was lubed enough for a big game I have today. It was working alright as is, I just wanted to make sure. In doing so, it reminded me of just how sensitive that top hollowed out round screw is....it *HAS* to be put back in exactly the same place as you took it out. If you're panicking at this moment because you don't remember dont worry, its not too hard to find that "sweet spot". When you take out that screw, you have a spring, then the poppet valve (looks like a toy top) then a brass hollowed out round screw-nut-whatever you call it, then a small pin with a tiny white oring on it. If youve lubed up your poppet valve before and this is not working, the next step is to remove that brass screw (CAREFULLY), then take out the pin carefully, its easy to lose. Check out the white oring and make sure there is no debris on it. Then give it a drop of the supplied gun oil, put it back in...I can't remember which way, since its been a while since I've done it SO MAKE SURE YOU KNOW BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT. Then put the brass screw back in...add about 3-4 drops of gun lube down there. Make sure there is no debris on your poppet valve, just wipe it off and put a drop of oil to lube up the black o-ring on it. DO *NOT* USE Q-TIPS ON ANY OF THESE PARTS...you'll get little white "fuzzies" in the inside and it will stall your gun. Next, place your poppet valve back in and then (this is what worked for me when I forgot where the last screw was supposed to stop) place the last hollowed-screw-nut-thing-a-ma-jig as flush and parallel to the regulator bottom surface of the gun as possible before you start threading it in by hand first. Also, what I do is use that little nick on that screw and line it up with the tiny little line that is grooved on the bottom of the gun surface before threading it in. Then, it should be generally around 3-5 turns (can't remember exactly) and the nick on the screw should be between the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock position. Mine works fine at about "2:30...between 2 & 3". When this is all the way screwed in...the screw surface should not be buried below the surface of the gun and should not be sticking out. If you turn the gun upside down and look at the back of the gun at the regulator area, you will see (before you thread the last screw in) that the back wall of the depression is slightly higher than the front "wall". The last screw should be just below the back wall and slightly higher than the front wall." Contributed by Rocky Grismore
3. If all of that fails, disassemble the gun. Take out the bolt and the rear hammer. The hammer is a piece that has a guide tube that fits inside of the bolt. Now take a look at the hammer and shake the thing up and down. A little piece of metal will move in and out of it. This piece is called the striker. The striker is critical in the cycling of the gun. After you fire the gun, the striker (if well lubed) will hit the rocker switch to complete the cycling process. It is very critical that the striker is able to move with ease in the hammer assembly. Do not use DuraLube or One Lube or any of those "super lubricants" on the striker. Tagline as well as I (unfortunately) have found out that these particular oils become thicker when the gun sits for longer periods of time. When that happens, the striker is unable to freely move and cycle the gun. Tagline recommends using WD40. I didnít have any around the house so I lubed it up with some Remington firearmís oil (called Rem Oil) which has Teflon. So far the gun has no problems with that. You can also use the oil that came with the gun.
As extra insurance of a well working gun, lube
up the hammer assembly the night before you play. That way, you will
not get frustrated if the gun stalls a lot and causes you to hit the reset
2.Sometimes the balls position themselves in awkward positions in the clip. This prevents them from falling into the chain drive the way they are supposed to.What I had done was to keep the internal sides of the clip assembly, as well as the entire chain, well lubricated with a light coat of oil. I am currently using the Rem Oil on this as well. Remember to remove the excess oil after application and to turn the indexing switch on the right side of the clip to make sure that the chain drive is moving smoothly.
3. Unscrew the guide plate on the right hand side of the gun. There should be a stainless steel guide attached to the black guide plate. If you do not know what it should look like, then watch the video that came with your gun. On one occasion, my stainless steel guide had broken and I was shooting some rounds and then there were the blank shots. It drove me crazy, I didnít know what was going wrong. After removal of the guide plate, I noticed that it was broken. Without the guide plate, the gun is unable to accurately grip the chain in the clip and advance another ball into the breech.
4. If you are using the new Viewloader clip mod make sure
that you have your view loader turned on if it is motorized or shaken if
it is the non-motorized version.
2. 45 Grips - With the 45 grip, you can bolt on what ever you like to it. I think it is much more versatile than the eurogrip.
3. Barrels from B.O.A., J&J, and Palmer's Pursuit Shops- adds that nice touch to the gun in performance and looks.
4. View loader adapter from ATS. This sucker rocks! With this little adaptor, you can attach your standard view loader onto the clip. For just $20 you can spray to your heart's content without having to shake the gun to feed rounds from the foregrip to the clip. Use an agitated loader if you want the ultimate in performance.