Quick tips
Get your dirta.k.a.soil,ready!!
: < Garden > :
compost:
Add organic matter and compost to your dirt. Use manure, pre-packaged humus from garden and yard centers or find a wholesale soil and mulch seller and buy compost in bulk. Add composts such as mushroom compost or manure to the top of the yard. This will break down over time, feed the grass and help add nutrients to the soil. Material such as grass clippings and tree leaves are excellent for organic material sources. Use a mulching lawnmower.
Add organic material to the garden, the same tree leaves and grass clippings can be worked into the garden soil. In a new garden one can work organic humus into the soil to help break-up poor soil. Bark, sawdust, manure, compost, peat moss and soil mulches and conditioners are often used for this purpose. Incidentally, if bark or sawdust are used they will leach nitrogen from the soil, as they decompose, so additional nitrogen will need to be added on a seasonal basis.
We add to our clay soil a coarse sand or a sandy topsoil mix, compost, and organic matter and hand turn it to mix it up. Do not just add sand without an equal amount of organic material however or you will make an "adobe brick " type mess.
We buy a "garden mix " or a "flowerbed mix" from a soil & mulch wholesale Co. in bulk, Both mixes have top soil, sand and compost already added and work well in mixing in with and amending the garden's soil.Over time , a habit of amending the soil with composts and organic material will make your garden much more productive than if you use chemical fertilizers alone.
fertilize :
Once the manure or other compost has been worked into the soil and the plants are in, you may now fertilize. Be reminded however that plants grown in poorly drained soils, in excessive shade or in competition with tree roots will not respond to any fertilizer.One heavy fertilizer application in early spring is not enough; it's much better to apply a moderate amount before planting with supplemental feedings during the growing season.
You can add organic fertilizers to the garden using manuers, composts, Bone Meal or other natural occuring materials, Many people prefer however to us in-organic controlled release fertilizers.
You can fertilize garden plants with a slow release in-organic fertilizer or a liquid application with a miracle-gro brand type. Simply follow the manufacturer instructions.
When choosing a slow release fertilizer, it is important to note that the higher the percentage content of sulfur-coated or plastic-covered urea ( solid crystal ), the better.Slow-release fertilizer in your gardens has the following advantages:
* Makes more nitrogen slowly available as a nutrient to the plant.
* Resists leaching or washing through the soil into the water supply.
* Deceases risk of fertilizer burn associated with heavy applications of conventional fertilizers.
* Releases independently of microbial and bacterial action.
* Offers controlled-release feeding for 10 weeks.
* Stimulates a more drought-tolerant plant.
NOTE : Not all plants grow in the same type soil, some plants grow better in an acid soil and require specific acidifying type fertilizers.
Mulch
We mulch using a coarse textured "black mulch" that can be worked into the soil in the fall to amend and prepare the earth for the next spring growing season. No large bark or chips used here , as they age and the color "fades out" they have to be removed and replaced. Place the mulch deep enough to help retain water and to aide in the prevention of weed growth.
Water
A lot of people skip this one,but it is very important, your plants need water to thrive. Deep water your garden so that the water makes the roots grow deep into the ground .
If water is scarce or you want to use minimal water, plant drought resistant plantings.Add Gypsum to loosen clay soils
Gypsum may be just the answer for reconditioning the soil, because it can be applied on the surface soil in the vegetable garden, flowerbeds or on the lawn. In other words it does not have to be worked (cultivated or spaded) into the soil, it can simply be spread on the surface. Gypsum has the ability to penetrate the millions of fine clay particles in heavy or hardpan type soils and loosen the soil structure. This process then creates air and moisture spaces that eventually loosen and break-up the soil structure. The only problem is that this doesn't happen overnight, it takes yearly applications, over about a three-year period to get the job done.
It should be noted that Gypsum does not contain any major plant nutrients, so it will still be necessary to continue a regular fertilizing program. Plus, you should continue to add organic humus in new areas, as you plant. Gypsum does contain calcium and sulfur, which are beneficial to plant growth.
Spread gypsum on the lawn with a lawn fertilizer spreader, at the rate of 50 pounds per thousand square feet. The granular grade is the best, and easiest to apply, for home garden use.
A single application each year is sufficient. And, it can be spread at any time of the year. Water it in right away, in order to get it working in the soil. Gypsum is neutral, non-toxic to humans and animals and does not burn.
When preparing new soil for planting flowers, shrubs, vegetables or a new lawn, mix 20 to 30 pounds of Gypsum per one hundred square feet of heavy soil. Mix the Gypsum into the soil and water well.
: < Yard > :
St. Augustine grass is adapted to moist, coastal areas with mild winter temperatures. It is known to be tolerant of high summer temperatures, and St. Augustine grass retains its color at temperatures as much as 10° lower than those which discolor bermudagrass. St. Augustine grass tolerates moderate shade, being as good or better than other warm season grasses for shaded sites. However, under densely shaded conditions, St. Augustine grass develops thin, spindly turf.St. Augustine grass is used primarily for lawns as it does not tolerant traffic as well as some other warm season species. It produces satisfactory turf at moderate levels of maintenance, effectively competes with weeds and other grasses and has only a few serious pests.
So long as fertility and drainage are adequate, St. Augustine grass tolerates a wide range of soil types. St. Augustine grass grows satisfactorily at a pH range from 5.0 to 8.5, but develops a chlorotic appearance in highly alkaline soils (above pH 7.5). It does not tolerate compacted or waterlogged soil conditions. St. Augustine grass is highly tolerant of soil salinity, producing satisfactory growth at salt levels as high as 16 mmhos. Bermudagrass will tolerate only slightly higher salt levels.
In moist, warm climates St. Augustine grass maintains a satisfactory turf cover with only occasional mowing. In drier climates (below 30 inches annual rainfall) it survives with supplemental irrigation. At higher maintenance levels, St. Augustine grass produces a thick, lush, dark green turf that is highly preferred by homeowners.In the spring with mild daytime temperatures and cool night temperatures,( Mid March ) St. Augustine grass greens up, but makes little growth. As day and night temperatures increase during late spring and summer, the growth rate increases.
St. Augustine grass is responsive to nitrogen fertilizer in terms of color and growth rate. On sandy soils St. Augustine grass requires about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per month during the growing season to maintain satisfactory color and density. At rates above 1 pound per 1,000 square feet, St. Augustine grass produces lush growth that is highly susceptible to insects and diseases.
Late fall fertilization of St. Augustine grass helps maintain color and density of the lawn into the winter and promotes early recovery of the grass in the spring. Thus, to extend the length of time a St. Augustine lawn is attractive, the lawn should receive about 1 pound of nitrogen every 30 to 60 days from early spring through late fall.
St. Augustine grass is sensitive to iron deficiency and readily develops chlorotic symptoms in alkaline or iron deficient soils. This deficiency can be corrected with foliar applications or iron sulfate or iron chelate. Soil applications of iron sources are less effective than foliar application in alkaline soils.
Potassium requirements for St. Augustine grass are about the same as for other grasses. About half as much potassium as nitrogen is required to maintain growth. Potassium has been shown to increase root growth, cold tolerance and drought tolerance in St. Augustine grass.
Phosphorous requirements for established St. Augustine grass are very low and generally met from the soil. Occasional applications of a phosphorous fertilizer material may be required. Newly planted St. Augustine grass will respond to phosphorous fertilizers in terms of an increased rate of spread.Generally, spring and fall fertilizer applications are adequate for St. Augustine lawns.
For your Houston area St. Augustine grass, use a time released fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio,such as a 15-5-10.
( 3 ) Nitrogen ( 1 ) Phosphorus ( 2 ) PotassiumIn early spring there is usually enough residual nitrogen to maintain grass through several mowings. The first application of fertilizer should be made after the second or third mowing. ( Sometime in March ).
If the lawn appears vigorous and healthy at that time, delay the first application until May. In the absence of soil test information, apply a fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 2-1-1 ratio at a rate equivalent to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
St. Augustine lawns may require periodic applications of iron sulfate or iron chelate to prevent iron chlorosis. A foliar application of iron sulfate at a rate of 6 to 8 ounces per 1,000 square feet effectively eliminates the symptoms of iron chlorosis. These applications may be needed several times during the growing season.Iron chelates should be applied according to the manufacturer's directions.
