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2004 litter

Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Total hearing/visual capacity
+ Will investigate anything
+ Can't respond yet to name

Canine Socialization Period (21 - 49 Days):
Interacting with his mother and littermates, the pup learns various canine behaviors. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human societies.


Human Socialization Period (7 to 12 Weeks):
The pup has the brain wave of and adult dog. The best time for going to a new home. He now has the ability to learn respect, simple behavioral responses: sit, stay, come. Housebreaking begins. He now learns by association. The permanent man/dog bonding begins, and he is able to accept gentle discipline and establish confidence.

THE RULES OF SEVENS

By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old (end of seven weeks) it should have:

1) BEEN ON 7 different surfaces:
Carpet Concrete Wood Vinyl Grass Dirt Gravel Wood Chips Newspaper Etc.

2) PLAYED WITH 7 different types of objects:
Big Balls Small Balls Soft Fabric Toys Fuzzy Balls Squeaky Toys Metal Items Wooden Items Paper/Cardboard Items Milk/Soda Jugs Etc.

3) BEEN IN 7 different locations:
Front Yard Back Yard Basement Kitchen Car Garage Laundry Room Bathroom Crate Kennel Etc.

4) BEEN EXPOSED to 7 challenges:
Climbed a box Climbed off a box Go thru a tunnel Climbed up steps Climbed down steps Climbed over obstacles Played hide & seek Go in & out doorway with a step Etc.

5) EATEN FROM 7 different containers:
Metal Plastic Cardboard Paper China Pie Plate Frying pan Etc.

6) EATEN IN 7 different locations:
Crate Yard Kitchen Basement Laundry room Bathroom X-pen Etc.

7) MET AND PLAYED WITH 7 new people: including children & the elderly

Day 43
October 21


Morning pictures, they all stamped the fence!


I almost got them all!
#8 jumped back just as I shot the picture



2:00 pm We did stacked pictures of the pups

They are just 6 weeks old, so this is practice and getting them used to being handled on a table. We don't expect them to behave, so most of the shots are done with reluctant pups. :-)
There are a few ways to do stacked shots. One is by holding the pup semi in place. Some pups will fight this, or rock back away from the hand holding the head or collar. Another way is with a food treat to bait them to stand in place. This works as a distraction, but is better once the pups are more used to the table, and being up so high.

We do the stacked pictures to evaluate the puppies structure. Angulation of the front and rear assembly. The topline, or level of the back, length of neck, tail set, etc. These are things that show us what the mom and dad produce structurally. We compare that against the standard of the breed, and against other pups at the same age. People throw around the terms Show Quality and Pet Quality all the time, without really knowing what it means. There can be a very slight difference from the pup that is a show potential, and the pup that is deemed not a show potential. Basically, any Curly that can walk around the ring without limping could be pushed off as a show pup. There is no disqualification in the AKC Standard for the Curly. A breeder evaluates a litter based on a lot of things. Temperament, personality, outgoingness, etc. And Structure. Some breeders will sell any pup to a show home, but that is not fair to the new owners, who may spend a lot of money trying to show and finish a mediocre dog. Its also not fair to the dog, who may be shuffled off to a new home if he does not win, and live up to his owners expectations based on the promise of the breeder.

While I am rambling on, the term Pick of the Litter is also one of my pet peeves. People get hung up on what *pick* they get. If you get pick of the litter out of a litter of mediocre dogs... you get a mediocre dog. If you get last pick out of a litter of exceptional dogs, then you are still better off than the poor schmuck who got stuck with the best of the bad litter. I gave that advice to someone looking for a curly pup 2 years ago. She was hung up on getting a lower pick of a better litter, or getting pick of a litter I wouldn't have suggested a pup from, knowing what activities she would be doing with the pup. After a lot of though, she opted for the lower pick of the better litter. The dog just turned two, and has 9 titles so far.

Im not saying titles make a dog great! I think the most prestigious title in the Curly World is the The CPE Couch Potato Excellent!

Now, you can't tell everything from stacked photos of puppies. They change day to day, and week to week. You can't tell how the coat will be, what the personality is like, how the bite will turn out. But breeders still rely on stacked pictures to get an idea of the overall shape of the pup.


Yellow Girl


Pink Girl


Orange Boy


Red Boy


Blue Boy


Green Boy


White Boy


Purple Boy

(You may notice I did two shots of the ones that were real bad with the stacking...sometimes trying a different method gives better results)

General Appearance
This smartly upstanding, multi-purpose hunting retriever is recognized by most canine historians as one of the oldest of the retrieving breeds. Developed in England, the Curly was long a favorite of English gamekeepers. Prized for innate field ability, courage and indomitable perseverance, a correctly built and tempered Curly will work as long as there is work to be done, retrieving both fur and feather in the heaviest of cover and the iciest of waters. To work all day a Curly must be balanced and sound, strong and robust, and quick and agile. Outline, carriage and attitude all combine for a grace and elegance somewhat uncommon among the other retriever breeds, providing the unique, upstanding quality desired in the breed. In outline, the Curly is moderately angulated front and rear and, when comparing height to length, gives the impression of being higher on leg than the other retriever breeds. In carriage, the Curly is an erect, alert, self-confident dog. In motion, all parts blend into a smooth, powerful, harmonious symmetry. The coat, a hallmark of the breed, is of great importance for all curlies, whether companion, hunting or show dogs. The perfect coat is a dense mass of small, tight, distinct, crisp curls. The Curly is wickedly smart and highly trainable and, as such, is cherished as much for his role as loyal companion at home as he is in the field.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Ideal height at withers: dogs, 25 to 27 inches; bitches, 23 to 25 inches. A clearly superior Curly falling outside of this range should not be penalized because of size. The body proportions are slightly off square, meaning that the dog is slightly longer from prosternum to buttocks as he is from withers to ground. The Curly is both sturdy and elegant. The degree of substance is sufficient to ensure strength and endurance without sacrificing grace. Bone and substance are neither spindly nor massive and should be in proportion with weight and height and balanced throughout.

Head
The head is a longer-than-wide wedge, readily distinguishable from that of all other retriever breeds, and of a size in balance with the body. Length of foreface is equal, or nearly equal, to length of backskull and, when viewed in profile, the planes are parallel. The stop is shallow and sloping. At the point of joining, the width of foreface may be slightly less than the width of the backskull but blending of the two should be smooth. The head has a nearly straight, continuous taper to the nose and is clean cut, not coarse, blocky or cheeky. Expression--Intelligent and alert. Eyes--Almond-shaped, rather large but not too prominent. Black or brown in black dogs and brown or amber in liver dogs. Harsh yellow eyes and loose haws are undesirable. Ears-- Rather small, set on a line slightly above the corner of the eye, and lying close to the head. Backskull--Flat or nearly flat. Foreface--Muzzle is wedge-shaped with no hint of snipiness. The taper ends mildly, neither acutely pointed nor bluntly squared-off but rather slightly rounding at the bottom. Mouth is level and never wry. Jaws are long and strong. A scissors bite is preferred. Teeth set straight and even. The lips are tight and clean, not pendulous. The nose is fully pigmented; black on black dogs, brown on liver dogs. Nostrils are large.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck--Strong and slightly arched, of medium length, free from throatiness and flowing freely into moderately laid-back shoulders. Backline--The back, that portion of the body from the rear point of the withers to the beginning of the loin, is strong and level. The loin, that part of the body extending from the end of the rib cage to the start of the pelvis, is short and muscular. The croup, that portion of the body from the start of the pelvis to the tail set-on, is only slightly sloping. Body-- Chest is decidedly deep and not too wide, oval in cross-section, with brisket reaching elbow. While the impression of the chest should be of depth not width, the chest is not pinched or narrow. The ribs are well-sprung, neither barrel-shaped nor slab-sided, and extend well back into a deep, powerful loin with a moderate tuck-up of flank. Tail--Carried straight or fairly straight, never docked, and reaching approximately to the hock. Never curled over the back and should not be kinked or crooked. Covered with curls and, if trimmed, tapering toward the point.

Forequarters
Shoulder blades are very long, well covered with muscle, and are moderately laid back at about a 55 degree angle. The width between shoulder blades is adequate to allow enough flexibility to easily retrieve game. Upper arm bones are about equal in length with shoulder blades and laid back at approximately the same angle as the blades, meaning the forelegs are set under the withers. The equal length of shoulder blade and upper arm bone and the balanced angulation between the two allows for good extension of the front legs. The forelegs are straight with strong, true pasterns. Feet are round and compact, with well-arched toes and thick pads. Front dewclaws are generally removed.

Hindquarters
Strong and in balance with front angulation. Thighs are powerful with muscling carrying well down into the second thigh. Stifle is of moderate bend. The hocks are strong and true, turning neither in nor out, with hock joint well let down. Rear dewclaws are generally removed.

Coat
The coat is a distinguishing characteristic and quite different from that of any other breed. The body coat is a thick mass of small, tight, crisp curls, lying close to the skin, resilient, water resistant, and of sufficient density to provide protection against weather, water and punishing cover. Curls also extend up the entire neck to the occiput, down the thigh and back leg to at least the hock, and over the entire tail. Elsewhere, the coat is short, smooth and straight, including on the forehead, face, front of forelegs, and feet. A patch of uncurled hair behind the withers or bald patches anywhere on the body, including bald strips down the back of the legs or a triangular bald patch on the throat, should be severely penalized. A looser, more open curl is acceptable on the ears. Sparse, silky, fuzzy or very harsh, dry or brittle hair is a fault. Trimming--Feathering may be trimmed from the ears, belly, backs of forelegs, thighs, pasterns, hocks, and feet. On the tail, feathering should be removed. Short trimming of the coat on the ear is permitted but shearing of the body coat is undesirable.

Color
Black or liver. Either color is correct. A prominent white patch is undesirable but a few white hairs are allowable in an otherwise good dog.

Gait
The dual function of the Curly as both waterfowl retriever and upland game hunter demands a dog who moves with strength and power yet is quick and agile. The ground-covering stride is a well-coordinated melding of grace and power, neither mincing nor lumbering. The seemingly effortless trot is efficient and balanced front to rear. When viewed from the side, the reach in front and rear is free-flowing, not stilted or hackneyed. When viewed from the front or rear, movement is true: the front legs turn neither in nor out and the rear legs do not cross. Well-developed, muscular thighs and strong hocks do their full share of work, contributing to rear thrust and drive. The extension in front is strong and smooth and in balance with rear action. Balance in structure translates to balance in movement and is of great importance to ensure soundness and endurance; extremes of angulation and gait are not desirable.

Temperament
Self-confident, steadfast and proud, this active, intelligent dog is a charming and gentle family companion and a determined, durable hunter. The Curly is alert, biddable and responsive to family and friends, whether at home or in the field. Of independent nature and discerning intelligence, a Curly sometimes appears aloof or self-willed, and, as such, is often less demonstrative, particularly toward strangers, than the other retriever breeds. The Curly's independence and poise should not be confused with shyness or a lack of willingness to please. In the show ring, a correctly-tempered Curly will steadily stand his ground, submit easily to examination, and might or might not wag his tail when doing so. In the field, the Curly is eager, persistent and inherently courageous. At home, he is calm and affectionate. Shyness is a fault and any dog who shies away from show ring examination should be penalized. Minor allowances can be made for puppies who misbehave in the show ring due to overexuberance or lack of training or experience.

Moxi was imported from New Zealand. Here is the NZ Curly Standard


Today, I also tried to get a good Halloween picture of the pups...since they will all be at their new homes for Halloween, I needed to do this early.
Here are some of the pictures


Pink Girl


Purple Boy


White Boy


Green Boy


Day 44
October 22

6:00 am The Puppy Playroom


12:00 lunch pictures


Day 45
October 23


Fo to more of week 7 (October 23rd)

Information about socializing your curly pup and early training

Safe Toys for your Curly pup

Crate Training, House Training a Puppy & Submissive Urination

Collar and Leash for the new pup

Puppy training tips

Puppy proof your home

Things that can be done at home to socialize your new Curly pup

Kids and Dogs

Your Curlies General Health (ears/eyes/teeth,etc)




More of Week 7!

SoftMaple Curly Coated Retrievers
Mark and Cathy Lewandowski
8282 Soft Maple Road
Croghan New York 13327

For information about our next litter email me at:
softmaple@curlycoat.org


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