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Shoot that dog!

SoftMaple 2001 Litter

 

11/23/2001 The puppies got 1st set of shots today. I give my own shots. (Did I mention I used to be a Vet Tech, and am now an RN?) I donít recommend giving your own shots unless you know what you are doing, know what the signs and symptoms of a vaccine reaction are, and know what proper storage and handling the vaccines need. I do not vaccinate at home to save money. I do it to limit the exposure of the pups that may not have adequate immunity. My Vet knows I do my own vaccinations. I do them during regular office hours in case a pup has a vaccine reaction.

The pups hardly notice that they are getting the shots. Only one whimpered at all. Some tried to scratch at the site a few minutes late, then soon forgot all about it. I picked each pup up. Cleansed the back of the neck with alcohol, pulled up the loose skin in the shape of a tent, and injected into the area under that loose skin. Every pup will go home with a shot record with the date, type of vaccines, manufacturers name, lot number and expiration date.

A lot has been said recently about vaccinations and immune systems in dogs. Every vet will have a different protocol of vaccinations that he or she thinks your new pup needs. Every area of the country is different. If your going to kennel your dog, you should ask your vet about kennel cough or bordetella vaccine. Ask your vet is Lyme's disease is an issue where you live. If your pet spends a lot of time in grassy or wooded areas where deer or field mice hang out. you will want to vaccinate for Lyme's disease. Leptospirosis is another vaccine that should only be considered if the disease is common in your area, and it likes to spread via contact with stagnant water such as ponds or puddles as it is eliminated in the urine of infected wildlife.

Many vaccinations come in a combo shot- you may hear them called Canine 7, Canine 5, etc. These vaccines often are administered together in a "cocktail."

Some of these vaccines contain leptospirosis, coronavirus, adenovirus cough, distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza and parvovirus. I donít like to overvaccinate. I used to give two sets of shots before the pups left, I have since cut that down to one series, and let your vet pick up from there. I give a vaccination without Lepto or corona.

Why do we repeat vaccinations? The pup get passive immunity from mom when nursing. They pick up her antibodies through the milk. This immunity will actually interfere with the pup's ability to make its own immunity from the vaccine challenge.





Here is just one vets sample of a vaccination schedule:

6 to 7 weeks of age: Give first combination vaccine. (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza)


9 weeks of age: Give second combination vaccine.


12 weeks of age: Give the third combination injection and possibly a LYME Vaccine inoculation. Generally a LYME vaccine is then repeated two weeks later, then once a year.


16 weeks of age: Give the last combination vaccine.


12 to 16 weeks of age: Rabies vaccine is given. (Local and State laws apply regarding Rabies vaccine since this can be a human disease, too. Your veterinarian will tell you the proper time intervals for booster vaccines for Rabies.)


11/24/2001 Another nice day the pups spent outside. Later I stacked them all on the grooming table to get them used to it, then clipped nails. That's 160 toenails to clip! If dewclaws were left on, that would have been another 20 nails. When the pups were younger, the nails were soft and easy to nip off. Now they are more like dog toenails. Tougher, darker. Harder to see the quick or vein in the center of the nail. With 160 nails to clip, I only nicked one quick. I use Kwik-Stop coagulant powder to stop the bleeding. The pup didn't seem to mind. (Yellow girl) she was more interested in the attention, getting petted, and the treats.

I like to get a young pup used to having his feet handled often. Don't just grab your dog and go to town clipping his nails! Get him used to you touching his feet, touching his nails, spreading the webbing in the feet. Leave the clippers out where he can sniff at them, check them out. You may even pretend to do your own nails with the clippers to get the dog interested in them. Get your dog so you can just touch the clippers to each of his paws. Reward the pup when he lets you. Get the pup used to you touching each toe with the clippers. Reward and praise. Make this a pleasant, positive time. Its easier to take the time and condition your dog to having his nails trimmed than to fight your dog each time. Here is some more information about nail clipping.

Nail clipping—the mere mention of this task can strike terror in the hearts of many dog owners! Fighting a dog while wielding a sharp instrument is no one’s idea of fun, but it does not have to be this way. With some practice nail clipping can be a quick and painless operation!

Start Young

The best way to ensure that your dog will accept nail clipping gracefully is to start desensitizing him when he is young. Dogs tend to dislike having their feet touched, especially if they are not used to it. As soon as your new little fella moves in, start handling his feet. Your job is to get him used to it, and if not like it, at least tolerate it.

When you are playing with or petting your puppy, handle his feet. Hold the paw, touch the nails and feel in between the toes and pads. Make the pup sit quietly while you do this, but keep the session short, as pups have short attention spans. Praise the pup as you are handling him and give him a little treat when you are finished for a job well done.

If your dog is older, you can still work to desensitize him to having his feet touched. Just as you would with a puppy, hold his paws, touch the nails, and feel in between the pads. If he fights this, keep the session very short, just touching each paw briefly and giving lots of praise and a treat afterwards. With a very difficult dog, ask someone to help you by holding the dog still. Keep the session calm—a big fuss will only serve to reinforce the dog’s notion that paw touching is taboo. Build up the time that you can touch his paws over time. Eventually, he will not mind having you do it.

Do not underestimate the importance of getting your dog used to having his feet touched. Even if you choose to have your vet or groomer clip your dog’s nails, your dog will experience much less stress if he is used to being handled. Also, if your dog ever has a foot injury, it will be easier for you both if you are able to examine his foot.

Equipment

Do not use scissors or human nail clippers on your dog. They are not designed for the task and can crush the nail causing your dog some pain. Your vet or local pet store carries several types of clippers designed for the dog nail. Make sure you have the right size for your size dog and keep the blade sharp. The guillotine type has a replaceable blade that can be discarded when it is no longer up to snuff and are the easiest to use for most dog owners. Its a good idea to let the dog get used to seeing the nail clippers. Bring out the clippers and lay them down. Do nothing with them, just let them lie there. Have them in a spot where the dog can't help but notice. Leave them out for a few days so the mere sight of them is no longer so upsetting. Some owners like to use a small grinding-tool to keep the nails short. These work well, but the dog must be used to them as the sound of the motor can be frightening.

In case of bleeding, have on hand a styptic pencil or Kwik-Stop powder. These will immediately stop the bleeding when applied to the nail. A nail file designed for dog nails will put on the finishing touch.

The Nail

If left to grow too long, the dog’s nail will cause the toe to turn up and the dog will not walk on the foot properly. If you hear the nail clicking on the floor, it is time to clip. Nails that are too long can catch on things such as fabric and the struggling dog can hurt himself. Additionally, dogs with long nails can scratch their human companions.

Many dogs have a dew claw, that is, an extra toe and nail, higher up on the leg on the inner side. These claws do not touch the ground and therefore do not get worn down at all. They can grow quickly and if left unclipped can catch on things causing harm. The nail can grow completely around if left unchecked.

The dog nail has a blood vessel, or "quick" that extends part way down. If you inadvertently cut the nail, the dog will feel pain and will bleed. If you are lucky enough to have a dog with white nails you can easily see the quick, but if your dog has dark nails you will have to gauge how far down the quick goes.

 How to Clip the Nails

Before you call the dog over, ensure you have your clippers, file and styptic powder ready. If your dog is unruly for the clipping, ask someone to hold him for you. If you have a small dog, use a table or counter with surface that will not allow the dog to slide. If you have a large dog, you may choose to clip on the floor. It may be easier to work on some less than cooperative canines by having them roll over on their backs for you.

Holding the clippers in your right hand (or left if you are left-handed), firmly grasp one foot and place the clippers over the nail. Make your cut at a 90-degree angle, about 2 millimeters from the end of the quick. If you cannot see the quick, try to gauge how far it will go down the nail and cut there. Usually, the quick will extend about ĺ’s of the way down the nail, so you can safely cut about ľ, or up to where the nail starts curving. It may be easier to make two cuts if you are not sure how far up to go.

If the dog’s nails are very long, do not be tempted to cut back too far. Cut just the end off and then cut them about every 7-10 days until they are back to where they should be. This will give the quick time to recede so that you are not cutting into it. If you do cut too far and the nail bleeds, don’t panic. It may be uncomfortable for the dog, but it is not life-threatening. Apply the styptic pencil or powder to the nail and wait a moment until the bleeding stops before letting the dog walk.

Remember to clip the dew claws back as well and file each nail gently when you are done to smooth the rough edges. Reassure your dog as you progress. Use a calm voice and let him know that you are proud of him. When you have finished, give him a treat.

With practice, you will be cutting your dog’s nails like a pro—saving you and your dog a trip to the vet’s or groomer’s!


11/25/2001 Splish Splash! First Bath!


CH SoftMaple's O'Dark Thirty SH WCX CD CGC CR-536G27M-T OFA cardiac, CERF (Jet) to CH Charwin Evensong WCX JH CGC CR-CA22/41F/C CR-480F35F CERF (Gabby)

Puppies born 10/8/2001 ~ 10/9/2001
4 black girls, 3 liver girls, 2 black boys, 2 liver boys.


Hey Warden... maybe we can work something out?


(10/8 - 10/9) Countdown, and the pups are born
(10/10 - 10/11) dewclaws, loss of liver girl
(10/12 - 10/13) Bio Sensor pictures
(10/14) A picture album
Week Two
Weeks three and four
BARF Diet?
What's in a Name?
What goes on behind the scenes
All the pups 11/7/2001
Weeks 5
November 9th puppy room pictures
November 10th puppy room pictures
November 11th pictures. Are those feathers in your mouth?
November 11th pictures, and she must be raking in the dough with this litter!
11/14/2001 A puppy outing
The puppies go on a picnic!
11/15/2001 Toys! Toys! Toys!
November 15th Wing pictures
Dinner in jail! Crates for your curlies
11/16/2001 grooming your curly pup
Week 7
What is a temperament test?
All the pups, Stacked photos 11/21/2001
11/21/2001 Water Water Everywhere!
11/22/2001 Happy Thanksgiving!
11/23/2001 First Shots
11/25/2001 Splish Splash! First Bath!


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