Measuring Tools

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	*Measuring Tool Tips* By Peggy Bendel
	Whether you're sewing for waistlines or windows, you'll find each construction step goes more smoothly and the final fit is more pleasing when you check, and recheck, the measurements. Thanks to the wide selection of measuring tools available today, it's easy to follow the "measure twice" advice. In addition to the basics, there are many specialized tools with unexpected shapes or special calibrations to streamline certain sewing tasks. Whatever your passion, from heirloom sewing to wearable art, there's a measuring tool on the market that will make life easier.

Clear measuring tools simplify pattern drafting and rotary cutting.

Required Rules
A flexible tape measure is the only tool to accurately measure the human body's curves and contours. Fiberglass tape measures maintain their size and shape better than their cloth and vinyl-coated predecessors. Many tape measures have large, easy-to-read markings and numbers printed in reverse sequence so the tape can be used from either end. Also on the market is an extra-long 120" tape measure useful for quilting or home decor sewing.

The French curve is used when marking pattern alterations and design changes. The ruler's varied curves correspond to key figure areas, such as the armhole, hips and neckline. Some curved rulers are designed as multipurpose tools, with built-in slots for marking seam allowances, buttonholes and other helpful details.

The sewing gauge, a 6" metal ruler with a sliding guide, is handy for measuring and marking countless sewing details, from buttonhole placement to seam allowance width.

The yardstick is best for measuring windows, rooms and flat fabric yardage, or marking long, straight cutting lines. As an alternative to the traditional wood yardstick, consider investing in a metal carpenter's ruler, available at hardware stores and home centers, or a metal graphic designer's ruler, available in art supply shops; either type will last a lifetime, and you can select from different lengths.

Specialty Tools

To straighten fabric or mark a true right angle, use a T-square. Small 6" and 12" T-squares, made from transparent plastic and marked in a grid, are sized for dressmaking. Larger metal T-squares, used by carpenters and graphic designers, are useful when sewing large-scale projects or squaring off fabric panels on the true grain.
To measure as you sew, apply a self-stick Lucite® seam gauge or screw an adjustable plastic guide to the sewing machine throatplate. A magnetic seam guide is a convenient alternative as long as the machine isn't a computerized model.
To space buttonholes evenly, choose self-stick tape, an accordion-fold metal gauge or a small metal ruler with a sliding right-angle rule.
For accurate hem measurements, choose a curved metal ruler you can press over, a transparent ruler with slots for quick chalk-marking or the time-honored yardstick on a floor stand with an attached pin or chalk dispenser. You also can use sets of metal clamps, marked in inches, to measure and clamp-baste a hem in one step.
To measure curved or irregularly shaped lines for wearable art and other custom treatments, look for a flexible ruler you can bend into the desired shape.
Special rulers are available for measuring and marking shark's teeth, scallops and ruching.
Rotary cutting systems enable you to measure as you cut and to cut multiple fabric layers. Each system consists of a rotary cutter, mat and transparent ruler; most mats and all rulers are calibrated, usually in a grid. Mats that are 30"x36" or larger are useful for dressmaking and home decor sewing because they're sized to accommodate large fabric widths. However, small mats are easier to tote to classes and workshops. Some experts keep a 6"-square mat next to the sewing machine for spot trimming.

The number of rotary cutting rulers has increased greatly, primarily to meet the needs of quilters. Special rulers are available for cutting geometric shapes, angles, bias strips, mitered corners and squared-off fabric panels. Many of these rulers are equally useful for garment, home decor and wearable-art sewing. Each brand offers its own ruler style, with the calibrations printed in various colors. The different formats provide measuring/cutting guides for a wide assortment of special purposes; the newest formats include gradations of 1/16", for tasks like miniature quilt piecing.

To measure accurate 1/4" seam allowances for quilting, check out the cubes, metal circles and plastic wands on the market.
Several pressing aids include handy measuring features. For example, ironing board covers printed with grids, bias lines, circles and squares are available to fit standard and tabletop ironing boards. There's also a portable pressing board, printed with heirloom sewing shapes and Bishop collar outlines, that reverses to become a rotary cutting mat. Another combination mat/pressing board has a grid, bias lines and circles printed on the pressing surface.

Smart Shopping
While accuracy seems to be the very least to expect from a measuring tool, you can't take it for granted. Keep the following suggestions in mind when making purchases.

In general, name-brand tools are more likely to be manufactured with sophisticated computer-assisted design equipment, precise silkscreening or hot-stamp printing and strict quality-control standards. The discount item you find in a bin near the cash register may not be reliable.

It's best to use a gridded rotary cutting mat and ruler from the same manufacturer to be sure the calibrations will align perfectly.

Measuring tools can wear out. Tape measures may stretch, yardsticks may chip and rotary cutting mats may warp. Replace them with newer versions when necessary.

Printed markings on measuring tools can measure almost 1/16" across, and this can influence the accuracy of your work. Therefore, always work from the same side of the printed marking when measuring.

You'll find a wide assortment of useful measuring tools in fabric, craft and quilt shops, as well as mail-order notions catalogs. But don't forget about non-sewing sources, such as hardware, home supply and art stores. Begin with the basics, then add specialized tools over time as your budget allows and your sewing interests expand.