Samos Island 2012
Mood:  happy
Now Playing: Silence
Topic: Reflections

Samos secrets 

Sat 12th  May 2012

   A lot has happened during the past six years. Kosmar went bust along with it's airline, making access more difficult. Greece has been in the news, it's economy rocking. We worried about Samos and the many friends there, how were they getting along now?

   We moved to Scarborough five years ago; we now live where we used to holiday and didn't feel we needed to go abroad, being on holiday every day of the year. But climates change and after a long winter we once again found ourselves yearning for sun and heat.

   Starting from the begining.

Wed 2nd May 2012

   We set off from Scarborough; Jenny came too and she drove the first leg of our journey, to the Services on the York Ring Road The old, red Punto has done 95,000 miles now - hoping it would get us to Manchester. The rest of the route went smoothly, roadworks over the Pennines; we stopped at the Birch Services. Taking the M60 around Manchester I fowled up trying to get onto the M56. It seemed to take ages trying to get back on course; ended up heading into Manchester!  After turning back and one or two rude blasts of encouragement from local drivers we finally found the Premier Inn and more importantly, The Chef & Brewer.

Thurs 3rd May 2012

So the three of us, Jackie, Jenny and myself were flying at 30,000 feet after a 4am wake-up call; 7 o'clock takeoff and a stop at Gatwick to pick up more passengers. not enough people seem to know that Greece is still open for business. We crossed the alps and the Ionion sea, following the route across Greece that divides Attica from mainland towards The Corinth Canal. We put our watches back two hours crossing the Agean (making it a shorter flight 'egh?) landing at Samos Airport uneventfully, which meant that the Pilot did not get a 'round of applause'. 26 degrees.

The Mellissa was shuttered up so I expected The Anthis to be the first stop. For some reason the coach driver took us to Irion, dropping passengers off at The Zeus. It looked terrible, half-completed breeze-blocks and cement, no windows, it looked like a bunker left over from world war two! Disembarking passengers looked bewildered, distraught. A voice from somewhere said "It'll be all right."

   We then set off for The Anthis, where two other couples (besides ourselves me, Jackie and daughter Jenny) alighted and that was it. The drivers job was done. Samos sure is quiet. The Anthis looked lovelly. We stood back and let Kostos take the others to their rooms first, assuring them they'ed have a great time. When he returned we had a laugh and re-aquainted ourselves.

    "Which room did you have"?

    "The one with the broken toilet" I responded in my usual, tactful manner. Jackie restrained herself (apparently she could have kicked me??) Kostos looked quizzical. I could almost see the wheels going around in his head. A smile quickly replaced his blanc expression and he took us up to the most beautiful suite we could possibly ask for; two bedrooms, kitchen, bathroom and a spacious, wonderful balcony with a gorgeous view across half the island. You could see Irion around the bay and across the sea were the Turkish mountains. It was magnificent.

    Sadly, while updating us about the difficulties of recent times Kostos also told us that his Father had died after a long illness. He was a lovely man.

   We rested; then went to the supermarket which had opened during our last visit six years ago. This was a five minute walk. We got what we needed of course, most importantly the bottle of SAMOS NECTOR I'd been promising myself.

   By 6pm we were tiring and crashed out at 8pm.

 

"Sana Papa"!

he'd caught a century

of sun. I regret

I could not speak Greek.

"Again!" he smiled.

"Sanaaa" (elaborate gestures)

He wore the weather

with dignity.

 

Friday 4th May 2012

    We'd not felt the need to travel abroad scince our move to Scarborough five or six years ago but now we were restless again. The awful winter had been a factor and we decided on a brief trip, just a week to renew old aquaintences on the island and see how they were coping with the Euro crisis first hand.

    We had a lazy day at The Anthis. 

   "Do not dive in the pool!" she scolded. Jackie's very strict.

Too late! Kostos' young son Adonis watched, leaning on the bar I threw him a ball and a friendly banter ensued. He's fourteen. We kidded around. I made a remark about young girls and he grimaced and slipped away.

Walked into Pythagoria in the evening. (Jenny preferred to stay where she was) The town is just as beautiful as ever although we'd never seen it so quiet. This was not a thriving place. The Tourist Information Office didn't look as though it had been open for quite some time. A number of shops were shut. One corner of the harbour had deteriorated, restraunts closed, even the toilets. 

    Walking along the harbour bay, past The Appollion, which looked closed we took the track slightly to the left towards the Faroes. "You are only the second English couple we have seen" we were told. We had met this young lady before (forgive me, I've forgotten her name) They do a very nice crab salad here and we promised to come back.

   Retracing our steps, there was Thomas, bright eyed as ever, wide grin, the beard a little greyer perhaps; we enjoyed a snack and a glass of wine with him, My tast had changed now to 'Vin Doux' while Jackie enjoys 'Rosea'. We laughed and talked. He drew a little sketch of Britain. We knew he'd been to England and that he'd visited York. He marked it with a cross. We indicated where Scarborough was. It was pleasent and relaxing sat there, under his canopy, admiring the boats, Greek boats, German boats, the sky clear as only the med' can be.

    "You must have one with us before you go" he said and we finished with  a complimentry 'one for the road'.

   Later, while musing around the old town again I bought a bottle of 'Nector' the enticing elixiar that had caught my imagination so long ago. It's a heavier white wine than 'Vin Doux'. I like them both, preferrably with ice. Of course we'd been comparing prices and found a small shop in the main street where we could buy a bottle for 10euro's. Very Good.

    Tired now, we took a taxi back; 5euro's. The driver pointed his house out, which was just across the road from The Anthis. Jenny had got to know the other residents while sunbathing and sampling the wine. We'd all been drinking all day.

   Note; 'The Esperides' had moved and would not be re-opening until the following Thursday. Too late. Kostos said he played football with Stamatos and would pass on our regards to him

 

Sat 5th May 2012

    Breakfast at 7.30 on the veranda overlooking the blue Agean, the tiny dots, yachts? Asked Kostos to put us down for the 'Greek Night' tomorrow evening. 12e each. Then we walked down to pythagoria again, Jenny came too so I was able to bore her with my talk about wild flowers and birds. It's very quiet. I wanted a new leather belt and picked out a very classy 'Armani' one which seemed just right. Jenny bought sandals and 'J' bought an 'Angry Birds' cap for Jamie. He'll love that.

    We spent the lunch time in Thomas' Bar, four hours as it happened, in the cool, under canopy. Bridget - I called her Bridget Bardot which she liked, she watched us watching the boats, German Giggalo's and the very young girls who seemed to like them. Very much. Nice swimsuits. Eventually they pulled away and with the catamarang gone there was a delghtful panarama of the bay and Asia Minor over there. Blue everywhere, sea, sky, the sparrows - they were brown - and very cheeky with much more confidence than their British cousins, they would steal anything when they were not being watched.

    Eventually the 'harbour walk' appeared to be rising up and down and it was time to leave but - wouldn't you know it? - our host insisted we have one for the road, with her compliments.

    We walked back along the beach to Potakikki. Annoyingly, I couldn't use the camera because clearly, it was faulty and changing batteries made no difference. I'll get Mene's take on this - she's the 'Photo- Person'. We sat on our spacious balcony in the evening, watching the sun go down and saying "Good-night".

We returned each year

five succulent springs

then five long years

elapsed until we mapped

that self-same course.

The economy collapsed.

Samos was the same.

 

Sunday6th May 2012

 

    Kostos was mopping the room opposite ours and we talked in the corridor. 

    "You can't do everything" I insisted, not for the first time. 

    "Forget ours" I said to him, "We're ok today. You do too much."

    "Today we get a new government."

    "You want a new government?"

    He balked, "No, no." He said " Today I do everything because I can't afford to pay staff, everything is too expensive." He didn't seem to think that change would bring improvement. He carried on with his mopping and would do our rooms too in spite of what I'd been saying. He's a worker. When I think about all the things these people have had put up with over the last few years they deserve to see some kind of reward. Anyway, while we were out he did our rooms too.

    We didn't go far. We spent mid-day under the canopy beside the pool and bar. Only one guy appeared, swam a few lengths and then dissappeared. Fresh orange juice.

    "Mene - she like to say 'Yes'...only the best oranges, De Mene from 'Del Monte' ". She laughed. This was an old joke now. I showed her my camera. I will buy a disposable one tomorrow. Hiding under a canopy is the only way to spend mid-day even in May.

Samos sleeps.

The mainland

rocks in crisis;

No jobs, no money

No problem?

They struggle

to convince

themselves,

meanwhile -

we're sleeping.

The Gods are laughing.

The disgrace - that is

the human race,

they laugh "They are

a waste of space."

A ring of debrie

rings the earth.

The revolting mess

that once was

'The Pacific'

The Gods see all

these things. The Gods

regret their aspirations

for us are in ruin.

They rue their tears.

 

    And now The Greek Night. We enjoyed a Barbecue of kebbabs and Greek Salad, potatoes and wine. A middle-age couple joined us. They were from Plymouth and apparently they were well-travelled. They liked Samos.It was very...convivial. He tried the 'Samos Vin Deux'; several actually. We watched the sun go down to the strains of:-

    "Dance me to the ends of love." 

    (It wasn't Leonard Cohen but nobody seemed to mind.)

    The beautiful Gypsey rhythms seemed very....Greek.

 

Monday 7th May 2012

Just another day in Paradise

    The Museums are shut but the shops are not. We booked the Island Cruise for Wednesday, so unless it's cancelled it should make a fine way to end our holiday. Some trips didn't materialise because they couldn't get the numbers, including the Island Coach which we found invaluable in getting a 'birds eys view' of Samos the first time we came. I was so keen to book the cruise I ran up and down the stairs (twice) in my pyjamas. The Courior was very understanding.

    We walked to Pythagoria again. This really keeps us in shape. We bought bits and pieces for the grandchildren and spent another pleasant hour with Bridget, under the canopy at Thomas' Bar. After a stroll around the lower part of the town we reaquainted ourselves with Pythagoras, his statue is in the harbour.

    Boats bobbed up and down along the quay and the cool, clear water shone. We could have been in Cathalonia or maybe Ithica.

    "You English...you can use the sunbeds." It was a warm voice from The Faroes. We talked a little and then retraced our steps along the harbour side to Thomas' Bar. I insisted Bridget have a drink with us. She had a cup of tea. I was surprised to learn that she was German so we ended up talking about Europe and the Second World War, also cats, York and North Yorkshire, while a cheeky sparrow swooped down and stole a peanut.

    Back on the balcony at The Anthis I watched several aircraft come and go. One flew off and up towards the east disappearing behind the mountains. Another, to the west; distracted by a bird I lost sight of this plane in a very light brush of white, hardly a cloud. Indeed, it's a cloudless sky, just a faint, squiffy line of cotten here and there. A plane was now coming in to land. It was in green and white livery. It turned and seemed to bow at the end of the runway.

    Again, silence, the Agean is quiet once again, but for the birds. This was as busy as the airport was to be throughout our stay. Personally I love planes, everything about them is facinating but there was nothing here to discourage those averse to aircraft noise, there is so very little, very few flights come in and the noise is not excessive. There are no night flights.

    Tomorrow we want to go to Ireon. I can see it now, across the bay, twinkling lights in the dark hills.

Tuesday 8th May 2012

    Looking out of our window across the bay towards Ireon it's time for breakfast on the terrace. In Greece we become someone else. We don't dress for breakfast but sit around in jim-jams chatting. Someone mentions the Greek Night and Jenny tells us the names of the couple who joined us for the evening. Stephen and Lesley. There are not many of us here so it was no surprise that it was such a quiet night. Just one other couple we had not seem before and Kostos' family, who are always in a party mood.

So, we do not dress

to impress, only

for protection.

    I've not been bitten yet but the girls compare their scars. I look up into the mountains where two large breasts loom over us; another, just behind us towers, a granite pyramid. A solitary cock crows. Stripped of their trees in the fire of the year 2000, the lower hills are green again, the higher slopes and peeks almost a silver/grey granite. Kora looks magnificent. When we have found what we were looking for only a fool would go on searching.

    Ireon is a small, picturesque village 6 Kilm along the coastline to the west of Pythagoria . The incescent lapping of the sea, translucent shingle shore. Jenny loved Ireon. The local shopkeepers were pleased to see us as we browsed around (a bit like tourists really); again we found that we were only the second English couple they had seen. We'll catch that couple up if we go on like this. And again we bought bits and pieces, I bought another leather belt, 3euro's, half the price they were in Pythagoria.

   We checked out the restaurants. The girls wanted sunbeds and I was looking for shade. 'The Rena' had all this. They enjoyed the fish salad, the special, while I, being very much a 'Jack Spratt' had Peppered Steak. (I nearly ended up with dog-fish due to one of my usualmisunderstandings!) They enjoyed the fish, very much. For me? this was the best steak I'd had in my life. The sauce was georgeous, the red house-wine -great. Jenny had orange juice, a Hienaken and an Amstel. All for 35 euro's and well worth it. The return taxi was 20euro's. Having walked it all those years ago we thought that was very well worth it too.

 

Wednesday 9th May 2012

    Out here cruising the Med' the sea is the deepest blue and it's wine for breakfast.  Andreaos' boat is heading for the small island of Samiopula. He blew a terrific shell-like trumpet while casting off and now we've left Pythagoria harbour and coasting? quietly past Ireon. The boat was an old fishing vessel; the top deck was comfortably filled with a collection of passengers from all over Europe, every one of them looking forward to a full days sailing, sunbathing and of course the barbecue. The coastline was beautiful, wildflowers, caverns, really remote and peaceful.

    When we got to Samiopula we were directed along a short track into a bay ideal for swimming and sunbathing. There was an enthusiastic dash to the water but it was obviously cold since they were quick to swim straight back out again. I took my time acclimatizing myself to the water, easing myself along uncharactaristicly and easing slightly in towards the waves. I seemed to have left my faint heart somewhere. A few attempts at breast- stroke and it didn't seem so bad. Then turning to my favourate technique I turned over and swam back lazily, sculling and watching the swifts in the blue above.

    We left Samiopula with it's mountain goats and sailed back along the Samos coast heading for a tiny, sandy bay which the Captain (a James Robertson look-alike) said was very remote and only accessable by boat.

    The barbecue was fine but I wasn't at my best, I seemed to freeze, couldn't eat very much and quickly excused myself. We'd picked out a shady spot under a tree and stretched out for a hour away from the sun. A finnish lady enquired wheather I was 'all right',  said she was a nurse... of course I was embarassed (as I am now writing) but thanked, her insisting I was OK. Which I was, I can't explain what's happening when this comes over me, except to observe that it usually involves food and large groups of strangers.

    For the last part of our journey we sat inside, on the lower deck of the boat and were quickly joined by an old chap who was releaved to learn that we were English. He slid across opposite us and told us his name was Glen. He was from Shropshire and he had a cheeky light in his eyes - though he was 'getting on a bit'. He loved the Mediterranean while admitting he hadn't a clue where he was. "She deals with all that" he said, with a wry grin, gesticulating towards the top deck. Clearly, some old dear had taken him on to help him enjoy his money.

    After disembarking we followed while his 'ladyfriend' helped him up the steep little streets, back to where the coach would pick us up. He seemed very resiliant, Striding, straight-backed and pulling her along!

    The evening was spent in the bar, back at The Anthis.

 

Friday, August 11, 2006

    Stretched out in the sun, peering over a paperback, I watch the women. Should I feel bad? We are made that way. So much pale flesh. Of course they see right through me; this one turns over, releases her top strap and refuses to turn over on her back again. They only exist to give us pain.

    Now I'm scribbling. They'll think I'm writing something important, a memorandom. I kid myself, they don't give a damn. Why should they? No-one even notices here in the real world.

We come here seeking sex;

come all this way across

the foam. Some have been

having sex for centuries

but it's so difficult. Perhaps

someday? Perhaps when we get home?

 

    Weep into your wine. How many misleading postcards will even leave the island? Lounging here in Psili Amos I watch the Turk over the water 1200 yards away, the proud Greek flag flying, strutting and fluttering on a rock half way across the istmuss - marking 'No Man's Water.' The Turk may swap it in the night, but the Greeks will swapit back again before dawn.

    I stretch out in the sun, hiding behind a book, pretending not to watch the women, their white flesh. technicolor bikini's tantilising thighs.

 

    

    

    

Second visit to Samos
Mood:  bright
Most of the above notes refer to our second visit in 2003, this is how I felt at the begining of that holiday.

30. April '03

"That was a wonderful meal!" Laid here on the bed in the Moat House Hotel Manchester after a marvelous dinner. We'd found a discount card in a leaflet and got a generous discount that paid for the wine. 'Piersporter Michaelsberg'- very appropriate.
After a couple of days of anxiety, worrying about the car, (Big Bill)wondering how we were going to get here, found the Hotel after just one, inevitable wrong turning. I'd been a little nervous about driving, strange after so many years. New motor-way, different route??? Big deal. Once motorways were routine. Shows I need a holiday!
It rained hard across the pennines, then it stopped, convieniently and a little sunshine enabled us to get a sandwich at Birch Services. Actually, the services were closed due to a power cut but we got something from the lorry-drivers garage.
Then it was raining again as we circumvented Manchester on the M60. Now, relaxing here, suitably full ( pork muskatets in cheese sauce ) all that remains is for Jackie to make the coffee.lol.
We have tickets for the Gymn Club, sauna etc and the night is young. The holiday starts here!

Mood:  a-ok
Topic: Reflections

Returning to Samos in a couple of weeks and reflecting ( this will be our fourth visit ) on that first, brief visit back in 2002 and the landing at Samos Airport. Everybody on the plane claps when they get down safely...it's an 'airy' experience as the plane follows a sharp arc and swinging round hits the tarmac, breaking similtaniously, stopping just in front of Reception. They have actually modernised the airport more recently but this is still 'the best ride at the fair.'
Of course, we took in the essential island tour to get an overall 'feel' of the place, aquainted ourselves with our hosts, Kostos, Ma And Pa' and the two boys - Antony and Dionysus. We didn't meet Mene, Kostos' wife, during that first week, she runs a photographic shop in Pythagorian.
We loved the island from the start, it was remote, unspoilt but accessible with an airport that is only in use twice a week. So it's quiet, perhaps not everyone's cup of tea for that reason, but just what we wanted.
We discovered Samos Nector straight away. This is a beautiful, heavy, white wine - ideal with ice on a hot patio. The Anthis Appartments, the pool, the friendly Greek people all combine to make this place perfect. We never felt the need to continue going back to the same place time after time but Samos changed all that.

 

6th May 2003.

    Walked back into Pythagoria last night and reaquainted ourselves with The Esperides, a very Greek restaurant. ( This is where the Greeks eat.) It's a great place to sit in shaded peace while 'people watching' and the house wine is good. We always go for 'The Special' listed at the door. These guys are really friendly. We recommend this place to everybody.

    This morning we'd walked back to Hora to find Jackie's sunglasses. (This small village was once the capital of the island.) The menfolk were drinking coffee. There are two Cafe's which face each other on a bend in the road; they were chatting away like they were in one of our 'Working Men's Clubs'! Well, not really. Samos has a quiet, warm atmosphere and a real sense of community that reflects a by-gone age. By the way- the women were working in the fields.LOL!

    The glasses were just where we'd figured she left them, in the Patisserie. So we took a taxi to Ireon, walked 'round the ruins, which are quite substantial and said "Hello" to Skaliaris who offered us wine. He'd like to see the Shirley Valentine film. I'd told him this tale about the way Tom Conti (in the film) seemed to be a perfect copy of him! He still dosn't know what I'm on about. I'm still trying to find a vhs copy for him.

    We sat in the harbour again where we'd enjoyed the pastries last year. The young Greek waiter (George) had a Canadian accent. Later, a couple of young ladies from The Evlin shared a taxi back with us and, somehow the driver got TWO FARES!

    We spent the evening in the bar. Jackie likes 'The Necter' which is a heavy white wine tasting a little like Southern Comfort.

    The new word I've learned for today is 'Xana' - "Again." I used it on Papa this evening. "Ah- AGAIN!" he answered and we laughed.

 

MONDAY 5th May 2003

    I'm on the patio, sat in the shade, eating a banana in the cool breeze. Kostos and the attractive  young Courior come past.

"Good Morning" says Kostos.

She dosn't look up.

"Kalamara Kostos"

    They go into the shed and shut the door. A few minutes later they re-appear.  They both look down. I don't look up - we have already said 'good morning.'

    Jackie came back with bread and milk and a car-hire price list. She's already reconsidering, perhaps she'll let me drive? On the WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD? I can do that!

    By eleven-thirty the mother cat is looking hungry, prowling around, trying to find something. She's the one that really needs feeding. We'd brought two tins of pilchads with us but there's no tin opener. Off I go 'round to the pool area which is deserted. The Bar's deserted. The kitchen door appears to be open but there's no-one around. Walking up and down I make my way round to the front just as Kostos flys in through the gates on his scooter. Wide grin. Wider than ever.

"You are a lucky man" I counter as he calls "Good Morning" once again. 

"Why?" he smiles, arms wide, like Johnny Weismuller swinging down on a vine.

"I envy you!"

He's still smiling. We smile together too.

"You have a tin-opener?" I ask (making tin-opening gestures)

"For the toilet?" He looked puzzled... we'd (no pun intended) complained about the toilet previously.)

"No, forget about the toilet for now, chill, chill..."

Next, he's rumaging in a drawer, reluctant to part (again) with his only opener. He takes out a large meat-knife.

"I will open it for you." He follows me around to our patio.

"You've never seen a tin-opener like this one" I call out to Jackie inside. He puts a small tin on the wall and brings the knife down on it.

"I do like this, in the army" he says reassuringly,

"with my bayonet-knife."

"Your Bayonet?"

He smiles handing me the open tin. When he'd gone the cat had some fish. The rest went into the fridge for lunch. Now there's a queue of tiny creatures all wanting lunch.

    The Courior is smiling once again and she's rounding up the animals for lunch.

"Oh! he does feed them then?"

    

    

Still reflecting...Samos Island Greece.
Mood:  mischievious

A little more about that 2003 visit.

1 May '03 6.30 PM.

Just awoke after a couple of hours sleep. Same room as last year - Anthis Studios . Samos. Jackie's gone to the Rep's meeting, she'll get all the gen' and enjoy doing it.lol.
Woke at 3am this morning...Moat House Hotel. Manchester - didn't need the early-morning call. Not had much sleep but washed and shaved, a couple of cups of tea, just in time for the 4.30 mini-bus to the airport.
Completely lost here - stood in the wrong queue in the wrong terminal like two old Giffa's dithering about until we found our way onto the aircraft.
After a smooth flight arrived three and a half hours later in clear, blue sunshine; much warmer, and bluer and greener than we'd dared hope. Temperature 26c and rising, apparently it promises to continue for the next few days - which would be heavenly.
Kostos can't remember us but tries to return our easy familiarity and sends Papa 'round to say "Hello again." Forgot we can't really drink the water here so it's 'off to find a shop'
The Elvin Mini-Market is closed. It's 3pm for goodness sake. Still singing 'Mad dogs and Englishmen...' walked to the next shop. Closed. A couple who'd arrived on our flight asked us 'where everything was?' They set off to walk to Pythagorian. (Didn't give much for their chances)
Of course...it's MAY-DAY - that's why everythings closed!

3rd May 2003 3pm.

     "EUREKA!" We found the taverna, the one the lady on the internet tried to explain about last year. She couldn't remember the name, we couldn't identify it last time but now we have and it was worth the wait.

    It's called 'The Faroes.' It's right at the end of the long line of restaurants hugging the harbour in Pythigoria. We enjoyed a crab salad, sat in the shade with an idillic view of the bay. A young guy was digging holes in the stoney beach (presumably to concrete more umbrellas.) The meal was superb. Yachts navigated the outreach across the harbour and a few children played in the sea.

    It's very quiet here this week. The few other diners appeared to be 'family.'  A very hospitable young lady searved us.

"Trust me." she said and we trusted her already.

"Come again, try something else - the chicken."

I told her we'll try the whole menu.

    We'd walked into Pythagoria this morning - along the beach. Beautiful sunshine.  Posted some more cards. Now we're pooped. 3pm and lights out.

    "What was the name of that taverna by the way?"

EMTIATOPIO 'The Faroes.'

 

4th May 2003 10pm.

    "F'Cara-shtern" (Thank You) That's todays word. I've got three greek words now if you count Kalamera/Kalesphera as two.

    Walked up to Hera this morning and bumped into another couple who'd been on our flight. They knew Greece better than we did but they'd never been to Samos before. We explored Hera, a very quaint, old village, got some pastries and the menu for the Pizza Delivery Tavern. Back at The Anthis we had lunch, fed the cats and an eight year old english girl called Cloe showed us the new-born kittens in the shed.

Siesta now essential. Later we spent some timeby the pool, drinking Nectar. (You must try this.) I'm reading a biography of Alan Ladd. (Scary) Kostos likes the new Courior very much. At 6 o'clock we set off to find The Mellissa where we'd been invited to join Trevor and Dorothy and after one wrong turning we were there - drinking Fanta and Bacardi. Maria, their delightful hostess gave us a 10% discount card for the family Restaurant - The Apolloni. We left by taxi  - for 'The Apollonia.'

    The Apollonia did not disappoint us.

Samos Secrets

Gave Antony and Dionysus an 'English Lesson'. These two young boys can now say "Eee...BY GUM" but they don't understand what it means? They are off to their English Class so they'll ask the English Teacher.
We took off to Psili Amos and our new friends, Trevor and Dorothy thought it was 'Great'. We went back to Ireon. The Honey shop was closed so we just had a quick look through the railings to see the temple. "Culture's wasted on me" Trevor said so we went back to the Ireon '' fish tavern. Trev' insisted we try the Squid - which tasted like...rubber. Introduced us to his friend 'John' as we watched the bobbing boats, drinking wine in the early evening sunset. (John is the Woodland Warden for Kirklees's apparently.) These guys are both very 'Labour', anti-war etc. Trevor's quite concerned that they don't outstay their welcome with us but they're both good company.
Tomorrow we go to Kikkari and then it's Kostos' Greek night in the evening. He insisted "Pay tomorrow" apparently it's his 'nice little earner. (Kostos has a pain in his back)
"Get Vicky to give you a good massage" I suggested.
"I want to -
she don't want to" he's saying.
(Not smiling.)


Sun 11 May 9AM.
Today we go back to Kikkari where we can swim with the fish. Might even get to the Nectar Wine Factory? The only thing that reminds us of home is the Co-Cooing of the Collard Doves. Wonderful weather again.
5.PM. Arrived back in time for the party. The worst part of the journey was going over the mountains to Kikkari. (Thanks to a diversion - someone's idea of a joke?) Couldn't stop laughing, for hours, stunning views, fields full of beautiful wild flowers, poppies...all captured on Trevor's video camera.
The road (TRACK) was horrendous; the sump took some stick, we backed up, avoided, negotiated the worst imaginable pot-holes we'd ever come across. All the time we were laughing, holding our breath...at one point half-way down a pot-hole Trevor cautioned "Don't reverse, it'll rip the sump off." We just had to carry on, hearts in our mouths, escaping, time after time over boulders, holes, disappearing pathways and precarious slopes. We passed an old shell of a single-decker bus on top of the mountain.
"How did that get there?" we gasped, unable to believe our eyes. We'd seen no-one the whole time, the place was completely desolate in a wonderful untidy, kind of way.
Finally, on the decent we came across some locals coming up towards us, bemused to see 'these strange foreigners '' laughing their heads off while they scratched theirs!
The car was in need of a good wash by the time we approached the road. Wouldn't have missed it for the world.
"Chill"
"Keep Trevor in the gutter!"
We mused about whether this was a 'once-in-a- lifetime experience perhaps? "ONLY ONCE." we conferred in agreement, again, we wouldn't have missed it. Not for the world.


Mon.May12. 7PM.
Still trying to get used to driving on the wrong side of the road.
Introduced our friends to Constantine Skaliaris who gave us wine. Trevor wants him to brew some English beer; he's sending him the ,list of ingredients, etc, beer kit - something for him to do in the winter.
wanted to go to Mili, a really nice, traditional village with a square and a friendly taverna. Phoned home and spoke to Mam, left Jenny a message and rang Mary.
Dot wanted to see Samos Town. Found the way by being really insistent with the locals.
"You have to turn around. Go back to and go round on the ring-road." This young guy wasn't letting on that there was a better way. We wern't about to go around the mountain again but we could see a tiny opening beside a kiosk, an alley really. I spotted an old, dilapidated van with a load of timber on the back. The driver was doing a three-point turn and somehow pushed and squeezed the vehicle through the opening. He nearly took the front off the shop with him too, it looked like it would come away from the wall at any moment.
"Cheers." We dismissed our 'kind helper' and turned the car round. Without more addo I drove straight through the opening (while the poor lady shopkeeper looked on aghast!)through several small gardens where a track 'of sorts' led to a roadway. It looked for a while as though we might end up having a similar experience to yesterday? But it was soon apparent that this was a quick way. We drove up to the top trying to get our bearings again.
We're on the opposite side of the barrier" said Trevor. The barrier or wall that had hindered us was now to our left and a right turn through the village took us straight to the Samos Town road.
Samos Town - really surprising, there was more to see than they'd made out. We had a really nice afternoon; Jackie bought a shawl, we had some drinks and stopped off in on the way back.
Trevor continued his price-checking and then, very happily, bought a load of booze. They're off to Turkey tomorrow so now we 'chill'.
really loved Mili. The old ladies there were falling about laughing when the saw Trevor. "Babe, baby!" - an old lass pointed to his portly belly, giggling . A very old chap with a donkey, fully laden, long spring cabbage, kitchen sink etc...Everyday here the sun beats down. Saw a small white cloud yesterday, the first one. Temperature over 100. Kostos is worried. "What will it be like in June, July?"

TUES 13 MAY
7PM. It's been a lazy day. Walked down to Potokiki beach, trying an abortive short-cut down a path that took us into a swamp.
I was in trouble again for not wearing socks. We bumped into Doreen and Ern'' on the beach and they kept us talking for ages. "You've got to talk to people" Jackie insisted, "after all they're on holiday and have the time!" Bought some herbs from a charming and very old  local man sat on the back of his van. "You look now" he insisted. Four assorted packets 5e. "We'll get some on the way back" we responded whenever we bumped into him. We had enough herbs to last three years.
In Pythagorian we bought two pair of baby's bootees for the girls - Peter Rabbit."Kathryn will appreciate those" said 'J'; we got a gaudy pair for her and some 'posh' ones for Jenny.
We found the most expensive coffee shop in Samos, 'THE PASTRY SHOP' opposite The Symposium.
"Low Ga rest - More." "Could we have the bill please?"

 17euro's for two ice creams and two fresh orange juices. Very nice chap - but not from Del Monte. Two very charming ladies from Derby joined us.
Looked in at The Esparades and realised that the chairs would be too small, too uncomfortable for Trevor and Dorothy so we might take them to The Faroes. We'll eat at The Esperades tonight?
   I'm not getting much further learning Greek . The meal at The Esperades was superb. "Just like last year" she said. bought a bangle then we walked back to The Faroes and had a look upstairs. "You've not seen this on The Internet" they informed us, "this is brand new". It did look beautiful. We explained our problem. "Our friends - Very BIG". The seating looked as though it might be OK. 'Very plush. At least it's padded.'
"They can use two chairs each." he said.

Mood:  happy
Sat 1May 10 10AM. (Sat outside, on the veranda)
Papa walks past. "Good Morning" he says, smiling. "Sana..." "Very Good" he echoes.
Another sunny day. Vicky (The Courier) encouraged me to haggle over the price of car-hire. Rent 2 days - get one free. Jackie wants it today! Vicky has just come back (while I'm writing) "The car will be here in an hour!"
"We'll buy you a drink on Tuesday - and a packet of Camels."
She laughed.
While all this was going on I was having a joke with Meni. "De Meni from Del Monte" I called her. (She only picks the freshest oranges).

THE ROAD TO IREON.
It's a long, long five kilometers in any body's's book.

9PM. Back again, unwinding after a good day. Trevor and Dorothy turned up just after we'd done the deal on the car-hire. Had to haggle again at the Avis office; put my 92e on the table. 'That's what was agreed - that's what they finally took.'
"Where did you learn Greek?" Freda enquired, just as I'd exhausted my entire vocabulary!

Samos Island Journal
Mood:  chillin'

This is the continuation of an account of our discovery of Samos to be found at blogspot .com

We are in Samos...May 2003

This courier's name is Vicky. She smokes everyone's including Athena's Camels - which was not appreciated. Athena still lectures Kostos. She was very warm and friendly when she greeted us this time but became a solitary figure when appearing later in the bar. Kostos chats up the young girls at the bar. They were very defensive when I suggested gatecrashing the ' Night'. Vicky she didn't know where it was; "Whats that place we're going to Kostos?"

Wed May 7
"It takes fifty years for a pine tree to mature". This was in reference to the fire in 2000. Samos people  are, understandably distraut about the distruction this brought to a large part of the island. Villages were destroyed and thousands left and returned to the mainland. This is still a beautiful place.

Todays word is 'Para'kilo' "You're welcome!"
Had a lazy day. Got some provisions from Hora. Then Siesta. Then met up with Trevor and Dorothy and their friends (who are going home tomorrow) We all had a meal in a taverna opposite the garrison in Hara. Not "Wonderful" but OK. We walked home in the dark.
THURS May 8
10.30 Took a taxi to Psili Amos (Beautiful Beach) It really is beautiful, unspoilt, the most remote, tranquil place we'd ever been. Jackie balked at the taxi-fare. 21e return, but agreed, "It was worth it!" Had half a bottle of white 'Retslina'in a shady terrace bar and stowed the remainder in an empty water bottle. Eight days of glorious sunshine so far and to lost that hurried, restlessness experienced when we went back to Ireon.

5.30pm. 'Siesta' disturbed when we heard new guests arriving, complaining in the corridor; "I... don't... IT!" An old lass next door insisted she be moved to another room. (She wants it hot and cool, sunny and shade...)Good for us if they move her away. Predictably Jackie was by the pool; She had the whole story. Apparently the airport had been closed because a military plane had landed. Planes in were diverted.( Departing passengers would have been kept waiting for hours in the sun, unable to get away.) The courier looked harrassed; Athena, morose, didn't return my waive. Anyway, Kostos and Vicky are still getting on VERY WELL. What was it she asked him yesterday? "Kostos...what's the word for Love?" (She's helping me with my Greek) LOL!

Fri May 9 5PM.

So - they moved the worst complainers. That's good. Apparently, apart from anything else, they'd been diverted to Gatwick : there are still not enough bookings post-war. The people here are a bit glum about it but don't bear the English any ill-will. Jackie took Doreen (new ) up to Hora to show her the shops. Then we walked down to Potakiki Beach, had a free sunbathe under the palms and a glass of wine by a shady taverna. Restina is out in future, gives me an awful headache but Jackie saves what's left again. (She quite likes it)
  The flightpath is overhead, as were a couple of passenger planes - or, was it one plane, coming in and then out again? Dorothy's birthday party tonight. We've got her a bottle of the wine she liked and plan to go back to the Apollonia for a meal. It's a lot better than the place we went to last night where the landlady treated us to a vanilla from the fridge. Hard as a rock! We know a couple of places  better than that one!
    The 'new people' are coming back - they sound a lot happier now. Athena has warmed to us now, "I have secret place. I keep it for you - for next year."
Dorothy's party at The Melissa. I don't remember this, but I do recall walking back to The Anthis under a clear, starlit sky, totally intoxicating.                                

Under a brilliant crescent moon
the mountain shines a bright,
white cloud. The terraces are
glistening in starlight. Listen.
All the earth has gone to ground.