Tatler Magazine (UK)
April 2002
By Summer Litchfield

The Grit Pack is giving Golboune Road respect, says Summer Litchfield

First, there was Portobello, with its grungy market vibe, shabby-chic bars and reggae music. Then came Westbourne Grove – all organic supermarkets, cool coffee shops and smart restaurants – and, of course, Ledbury Road, with its chi-chi boutiques. But just when you thought you’d discovered every last cool corner of west London, a new encampment is emerging. It’s not all pretty, but that’s half the attraction. Welcome to the Golbourne ghetto. Enter at your peril.

Joe Fiennes, Damon Alburn and Juergen Teller have already realized the area’s gritty charms and set up home here, but what’s made it officially hot is that Stella McCartney has bought the blue and white chapel and is trying to decide whether to live in it, work in it or turn it into an Indian restaurant.

Look beyond the rough and readiness and you’ll see ironic touches appearing: an antique shop called Les Couilles du Chien (the dog’s bollocks), and a slightly grubby-looking second-hand shop that on closer inspection turns out to be Relik, a favourite haunt of vintage fashion junkies.

Flanked by council estates, the area where Portobello Road meets Golbourne Road enjoys its fair share of drug busts and other connected activities; in fact, you’ll be lucky to find a taxi prepared to take you there. Stray dogs scamper along litter-strewn streets, and swarthy men argue nosily on fold-out chairs outside shops. Girls are birds, boys are blokes and lunch is a bag of well-vinegared chips from George’s fish shop. But don’t be fooled – the girls are likely to be called Camilla and you’ll probably find a few Caspians, too. A new smart set has discovered the area’s edgy allure (and fractionally lower house prices) and is sparing no time in moving next to the drug dealers and down-at-heel. This is elegant slumming at its best.

The fashion pack have already started staking their claim. Lucky Goldman and Samantha Salmons own the jewellery shop Ruby Red, which sells gold razor-blades on chains (Kate bought one for Dan). Jade’s ex, Euan Macdonald, does a line there, and Tom Hollander, who lives nearby, often drops by for a chat and a cuppa. “We do get smackheads wandering in sometimes,” says Sam, “but our way of dealing with them is to be super-helpful rather than unfriendly, and they get so freaked out they leave of their own accord.”

Next to Ruby Red is Willma, Sacha Mavroleon and Sophie Towill’s hip accessories shop. Liberty Ross pops in when she can and even Winona has paid a visit to peruse the pickings. The fact that both shops have to keep their doors locked at all times, and customers can only gain entrance by bell, lends even more of an edge to the proceedings. “I think our customers quite like the element of danger,” says Sacha. “Shopping can be a bit mindless, but here you’ve got to be a little bit more aware.”

So forget Brompton Cross – too safe. Forget Hoxton – too far away. Take a walk in wild, wild West 10. Just make sure you carry your knuckleduster. Maybe Stella should turn her chapel into a rehab clinic? But then that wouldn’t be keeping it real.